E39 Multiple misfire help

[Trey...]

Hello all, I recently purchased my first bmw about a month ago. It is a 2001 bmw 540i. I've been having trouble pin-pointing what my issue is. When I got the car everything seemed fine besides some minor things which I've fixed and I had a misfire with fuel cut off on cyl 4. No biggie, I thought. The car was sitting for a few months. So the next day I changed spark plugs and misfire was gone... for a few hours. SES started flashing again. Next day I get a code reader on and i have 5 codes. Misfire on cyls 1-4 with fuel cut off and a random multiple misfire code. Since the I've brought the car to a certified bmw tech. They ran a bunch of tests, changed 02 sensors and crank position sensor for bank 1. They told me there is low compression in bank 1 but no noticable damage in the cyls. At the end of all this they basically told me my car is "out of time" and needs timing job. Quoted me $3500 so I took my car and left. I got in touch with the guy I bought the car from and he was willing to help. I brought it to his mechanic and this guy ended up telling me he THINKS it's my VANOS. Now I have another guy telling me he will do my vanos and the timing for a really good price BUT he doesn't believe that's my issue lol. I'm at a loss at this point. Some notable thing I should mention: misfires cylinders 1-4 and now cyl 6 as well, a new code for a small evap leak, rough idle, knocking sound and slight engine shake. The weird thing to me is the car only misfires at idle and the misfires aren't very noticeable at all. Once I get going the light SES stops flashing. The car feels pretty smooth and strong but I am starting to feel loss in power. The start up doesn't sound very good and battery light flashes sometimes when starting up. I also smell unburned gasoline and have pretty bad mpg. I hear this metallic jingle sound that comes from under the car when I take off in 1st gear. It sounds like small metal pieces being shook around in a metal can. I wonder if this could be my cats and If this is causing my problem. I have about 140k miles. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

[BeeMWeeUp]

Hi Trey
Curious that you have NO REACTIONS from members so far.Been more than 36 hours i think.So ill chime in,,MY 2 cents worth may be more than you have so far....Generaly,you would want to make sure that your battery is in good condition.It would be best if you can have any testing/cranking done with as powerfull as you can get,external booster(batt charger or dedicated 13.8 vdc source).. Ill do some cut/paste tricks to give you my opinions....
They ran a bunch of tests, changed 02 sensors and crank position sensor for bank 1---which shows that they just threw parts at it and hope it would fix it,,You of course had to pay for their schooling...hope they gave you the original parts since they were probably good to begin with.

QTE-Now I have another guy telling me he will do my vanos and the timing for a really good price BUT he doesn't believe that's my issue lol==
I agree-and that seems to be type of a technician that i would thank to for honesty and ask him to elaborate why not and what he thinks is THE ISSUE..

So i think that you may have problems with connectivity on your engine harness connectors,,most likely at the DME itself..Im not gonna write a book here as for what and how to do but further searching into it may save you some green hemp cloth printed illegally by NON-FEDERAL reserve.
Quick tip-use alcohol,q-tips,ultrafine sand-paper,old toothbrushes and/or DE_OXit and take apart/inspect/clean ALL you can get your hands on.


it appears from your post that the engine MIGHT HAVE POSSIBLY BEEN APART(maybe TCguides,Vanos rework etc) and your symptoms show as would be expected for incorrect readouts from CAMSHAFT sensors,which then affects how VANOS gets controlled((incorrectly)) by DME.....So then fuel ratios get out of whack because of it,causing oxy.sensors to report that stuff is out of whack back to DME which in turn will shut the fuel supply and spark to certain cylinders---1-4 then plus 6 in your case,if i remembered it correctly. Im suprised to see Your car did NOT get any KNOCKING codes reported and that is good because it would indicate MISTIMED engine right away.

I would also try to get compression test results from first place you went to,or have it redone by that guy that can do the job but doesnt want to..Make friends and he might be a keeper as an INDY MECH.


QTE:
Misfire on cyls 1-4 with fuel cut off and a random multiple misfire code--- THAT IS A KEY LINE..Have someone CONFIRM proper timing after you clean all contacts(especialy BOTH camsensors and Both VANOS solenoids) ....Since you are NOT complaining about noises from engine,i hope either the chain guides have been done already(and VANOS seals) or be prepared to be doing that ASAP(its a known achilles heel on this otherwise awesome v-8...


Good luck bud.

[jclausen]

I would also check fuel pump pressure

[mnewman]

Start with Compression Check, make sure the platform is Viable. Also, I would run a leak down test on any cylinders which are suspect.

Hope you find your issues, I know it can be frustrating.

[Wagon727]

I had the same issue, before i replaced my plugs and coils. When I removed my original plugs, I found most to be lose; read less than finger tight. After replacement, it has been running solid, w/ no misfired. Good luck.

[capebmw]

Since you are NOT complaining about noises from engine,i hope either the chain guides have been done already(and VANOS seals) or be prepared to be doing that ASAP(its a known achilles heel on this otherwise awesome v-8...
He actually did say he hears the sound of rocks rattling in a can(those are your timing chains rattling away at the front cover)! If I was you my friend, start doing some serious reading on timing chain guide replacement. LOTS of info here and elsewhere. You will have to decide whether you want to do it yourself or pay someone. Paying someone else will very likely cost more than the car is worth. Time to do some serious soul searching on what you have going on.

[Trey...]

I've been doing non stop research. Thanks for all the replies, but I dont believe that sound is the chains. The sound is very light and comes from beneath the car. I suspected it to be bad cats maybe?

[geargrinder]

What David (cape) said.

Basically: Drop the oil pan. Look for bits of plastic in it. This absolutely reeks of guide failure.

Hey Dave did you see the other thread where a guy had a 540 with oil wicked all the way back up to the DME and soaking the DME connector? Thought of you!
Keep meaning to drop you a line as I'm running by to Woods Hole / MV but never remember until I'm driving past your house already... Hows the fleet coming along?