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Thread: A few floor pan questions,

  1. #1
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    A few floor pan questions,

    Considering fabbing up a driver side floor pan (after removal of carpet), E36.

    - What thickness of aluminum diamond plate is commonly used?
    - Anyone used perforated or expanded aluminum panels?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Is this because of rust, to level the floor, or aesthetics? I replaced a rotted floor and tossed the carpet...I had originally planned on fabbing or purchasing a diamond plate floor to make it flat...but then found that I didn't mind driving it as is. Didn't impact my ability to modulate throttle or heel/toe at all...so I'd say if you're after function over form, give it a shot as is first and see if you like it.
    (I know this wasn't your question...just my experience I thought I'd share in case you were doing it because 'they' say you need to)

  3. #3
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    Thanks, good idea actually. It's not rust, just pulling the nasty carpet (cause, mostly track car). I bought some 5053 plate AL, 0.09" thick. Always good to have some of that stuff around anyway if I decide not to use it.

  4. #4
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    How do these floor pans attach to the car? I can see easy attachment at the rear of the panel, where else?

  5. #5
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    I used aluminuim diamond plate (1mm thickness and ribs 2mm), bent it so it would fit under the pedals, bent a lip op the left side for attachement to the side of the car and riveted it in place, the right side just rested on the floor.
    I dont have photo's of mine but used these photo's as inspiration
    vloer1.jpgvloer2.jpg

  6. #6
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    I had one sheet of 0.125 aluminum diamond, measuring 12"x36." It was bought for something else that never came to pass.

    That was plenty of material to do both sides of the car, and it has been plenty thick.

    I didn't bother covering anything except the flat area where I put my feet. The forward edge butts up against the accelerator pedal hinge, and for width I cut it so it stretched from the tunnel to the footrest and butted up tight on each of them.

    I bolted the aluminum directly to the floorpan on the tunnel side. Used a piece of steel square tube about 10 inches long as a spacer between the aluminum and the floor on the footrest/outer side, and bolted straight through that down to the floorpan. I can't remember, the tube was probably 1" square tube but it may have been a little larger.

    It has been very sturdy for a full season. I would do it the same way again.
    If God meant for man to motor-swap LS engines into track cars, He wouldn't have created Corvettes.

  7. #7
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    Thanks, I appreciate the details!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by aeronaut View Post
    Thanks, I appreciate the details!
    I will try to remember to snap a photo and post it up, but I am notoriously slow about this kind of thing.
    If God meant for man to motor-swap LS engines into track cars, He wouldn't have created Corvettes.

  9. #9
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    Gotta install a few more rivnuts, some anti-slip tape, and some protection around the sharp edges near wires. But mostly done.

    IMG_20181109_163022.resized.jpg

  10. #10
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    Nicely done!

  11. #11
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    Thanks! I'm not sure a fiber reinforced panel wouldn't be better here. Would insulate against heat. But, here's my final install.

    IMG_20181115_120800.resized.jpg

  12. #12
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    WAAAY nicer than mine!

    DSC_4613.JPGDSC_4615.JPG
    If God meant for man to motor-swap LS engines into track cars, He wouldn't have created Corvettes.

  13. #13
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    Looks 100% functional! I actually like the fact that yours is 1/2 length. I plan to cut some 'speed holes' in mine.

  14. #14
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    Not sure how much money you have allocated to buying the raw materials to make this plus the cost of your time involved.

    But for me, these pre-made floor pans seem like a no-brainer at $200 for both LH/RH.
    http://mkahmotorsports.com/e36-diamo...r-single-side/

  15. #15
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    Thanks, I've seen those. I like mine better.
    No doubt, if you count your time, you rarely come out ahead on a custom fabrication vs production. But I'm in it for the fun.

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