7/13/2022 update: After almost 4 years of slow and steady progress, the 6 speed manual conversion is complete. Everything related to the transmission swap is 100% sorted now and the car is an absolute joy to drive. Scroll through the thread to read the details, or skip to the last page for the TLDR conclusion. The other smaller projects for this particular car (mostly related to suspension things at this point) will continue to be documented in my various posts on this forum. Enjoy the thread!
I'm in the process of doing a 6-speed swap in my e32 740il. I'll be documenting it as much as I can in this thread. I've been slowly acquiring the necessary parts over the last 6 months and since this is a project car, I'm taking my time with the conversion.
The transmission is a 6-speed Getrag 420g from an e34 540i. I decided to go with an TTV 265mm lightweight single mass flywheel and the stock Sachs clutch, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing. I made this thread in the e34 forum about the options on the clutch/flywheel:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...highlight=420g
I bought some parts used (the trans and a couple other items), but decided the majority of the parts I would buy new (lots of stuff for the pedals, trans, shifting parts, clutch hydraulics, random ancillary hardware, etc.). Most of the stuff that I've been taking apart I replaced with new components. There are still some items I need to acquire (mostly things that are NLA from BMW).
I decided to replace most of the shifting related items on the trans with new parts, as well as the trans input shaft seal and shifter seal, the breather valve cover, and other items. There is an update kit from BMW that changes the 3 shifter rod balls and springs to sleeves to help with notchy gear changes in the 420g.
The 420g:
20180709_174010.jpg
Updating the detent balls to sleeves:
20180819_195109.jpg
Old parts. I didn't get a pic of the new sleeves. There's a BMW service bulletin for the e39 M5 on the procedure for doing this. You have to be careful not to let any of the shift rods move or they will get out of sync, and you'll have to disassemble the whole trans to fix it. I believe it needs to be in 1st gear when you do this.
20180821_180314.jpg
Installed:
20180821_180155.jpg
More to come.
Last edited by m60power; 07-13-2022 at 10:52 PM.
Replacing more shifter detent balls and springs
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20180821_180343.jpg
Most of the items I replaced on the trans. The large detents (for left and right of neutral on the shifter) and the roller detent were an absolute bitch to get out:
20181019_203138[1].jpg
New shift selector rod seal and shift rod knuckle installed:
20181019_205032[1].jpg
New shift fork, guide sleeve, pivot pin and spring, throwout bearing, and slave cylinder installed. (I'll be removing the grease from the splines before install I just didn't want the input shaft to rust).
20180909_202653.jpg
Last edited by m60power; 04-04-2022 at 10:24 PM.
New metal plugs installed over the ball detent and shift lock roller pin:
20181019_205046[1].jpg
Removing the pedal cluster covers:
20180807_201617.jpg
Clutch cruise control cancel harness was pre-installed!
20180807_202201.jpg
I got a used pedal cluster assembly with the 420g trans but decided not to swap out the entire cluster after realizing how difficult that is. It's so much easier to just swap in the clutch pedal and brake pedal to the existing assembly. Unfortunately my car didn't have the clutch assist spring perch (some cars do) but forum member TheStigg came to the rescue! he fabricates a spring perch bracket that bolts up to your pedal assembly and it worked perfectly! I bought all new parts for the pedals including new rubber pads, plastic bushings, new hardware (the longer bolt needed for the clutch pedal), the clutch switch and bracket, brake pedal spring and switch actuator arm, etc.
Pedals installed:
20180921_210730[1].jpg
As you can see in the previous picture I also installed the rubber grommets in the firewall for the master cylinder and the clutch fluid hose that will go to the reservoir. Thankfully BMW has pre punched the sheet metal behind the pedal assembly bracket, so a good whack with a screwdriver and they fall out into the engine bay. The two grommets were tough to install - I greased them up with white lithium grease and worked them onto the fire wall from the engine side. You can get the part numbers for the grommets via realoem for the e34 540. They are still available from BMW.
To be continued...
Last edited by m60power; 10-19-2018 at 10:36 PM.
Car up on jack stands. Excuse the missing clips for the lower rocker panels...
20180922_142424[1].jpg
New wire harness clips on the 420g:
20181019_205117[1].jpg
Exhaust removed:
20180922_141343[1].jpg
20180922_142842[1].jpg
Removing driveshaft. I will need to get the front half lengthened at a driveline shop because the 420g is much shorter than the 5hp30.
20180929_093728[1].jpg
To be continued...
You are the MAN!!! Love what you are doing and I will eventually have many questions to ask you. I am planning on doing this in the near future with my 750 and a 420g trans+adapter plate. My biggest hurdle will be having to be under the car to work on it while on jack stands, dont like that, especially if I have to be yanking on a transmission.
BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///
Ditto ^ I'm on the lookout for a manual transmission for my 735i with around 100k miles. Can't bring myself to swap out a perfectly fine 4HP22 with under 65k, so I plan to get up over 100k and THEN I'll have a ton of questions on this. Exciting!
1983 4-spd Mercedes 240d w/403k - Sold!
11/87 E32 735iA w/45k - Daily Driver (finally!)
04/88 E32 735iL - Parts Car
Your not going to enjoy pulling that auto trans out on the ground it’s so damn heavy!
Me E30 87/ 325i + F25 12/ M-Sport + E32 94/ 740i
G/F’s E34 92/ 525iT + F48 18/ X1
Yeah I know! The 5hp30 weighs something like 275 lbs with the torque converter. I'm still devising a good way to get it down.
You are a brave man Looking forward to reading your updates.
I have the same ESCO jack stands, they are very good.
I did mine on my lift with a trans jack but I’ve seen one of these. Might be worth it just so you don’t kill yourselve under that car
https://m.harborfreight.com/800-lbs-...ack-69685.html
Me E30 87/ 325i + F25 12/ M-Sport + E32 94/ 740i
G/F’s E34 92/ 525iT + F48 18/ X1
Yeah, I love the ESCO stands, they've been great for the e32.
I got the transmission out a few hours ago. It was difficult but went smoothly. I thought about getting a transmission floor jack mainly for the pitch and roll adjustments that you can do with them. I looked at a few and didn't like any of them, and the mount brackets don't look like they'd fit well to the bottom of 5hp30 or 420g. So what I did was use two large floor jacks and strapped a wood block around the top of each one (so it wouldn't tip off the metal disk). I proof tested it by standing on one edge.
20181021_210559[1].jpg
I removed the shifting cable from the car side where it goes into the console area after unbolting the shifter.
Getting ready to remove shifter and cable:
20181013_134945.jpg
I put a couple small blocks of wood between the back of the oil pan and the crossmember that holds the thrust arms to support the back of the engine when the trans was unbolted. I used a very long extension with a u-joint on right after the socket to get to all the torx bolts on the bellhousing. The bolts are E12 female torx except for the top two which are E10. The top two were the hardest to reach. I didn't pull the trans cooler off. You just need to unbolt the coolant hose connections at the cooler and tuck them out of the way. I supported the tranmission with a jack from the front and one from the rear, both on the oil pan of the transmission. I made sure they were firmly against the bottom before undoing all the bolts. Once unbolted I was able to roll it away from the back of the engine pretty easily. Just a few inches. Then I began the process of going back and forth between the two jacks lowering each one a tiny bit at a time making sure the trans wasn't getting caught on anything. As you lower it you need to roll it back a little bit each time so you can clear the exhaust headers. It was a tight fit. Once the jacks were all the way down I lifted each end of the trans down onto cardboard on the floor and slid it out.
Looks like I measured the height perfectly, It barely cleared the bottom of the car
20181021_195552.jpg
And it's out; I can't get over how heavy the 5hp30 is:
20181021_195717.jpg
Back of the engine:
20181021_200221.jpg
To be continued...
Last edited by m60power; 10-21-2018 at 10:51 PM.
Just a small update. I pulled off the flywheel / flexplate today. I don't have the special flywheel lock tool so I improvised and used a mini carabiner attached to two of the auto trans bell housing bolts. One threaded into the engine, and the other through a hole in the flywheel using two nuts to hold it on. It worked perfectly:
20181023_190851[1].jpg
Flywheel out:
20181023_192405[1].jpg
20181023_192518[1].jpg
Next I'll be replacing the rear main seal and that gasket under the large back coolant cover. I'll probably install the master cylinder and first clutch hard line soon, since I have easy side access to where the line will thread into the master cylinder without the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate in the way. I've heard it is normally not easy to access that connection point without threading the line to the master before shoving it through the firewall.
I grabbed a pic of the wood blocks under the rear of the oil pan:
20181023_193831[1].jpg
I cut out the slot in the lower dash cover for the clutch pedal. There was a pre-marked edge in the plastic cover even though this is an automatic e32. Another thing BMW did to make this project easy on me A dremel and a file made this quick and simple:
20181023_194757[1].jpg
To be continued.
Last edited by m60power; 11-11-2018 at 05:28 PM.
Wow, this is impressive! I would love to see a video once you're done! Good luck!
Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
Im in the middle of doing this myself actually, all I have left to do is get the trans bolted into place and get the driveshaft lengthened. I did the exact same thing to take out my 5HP30. I also figured since mine has 300k miles on it I may as well try and rebuild it for the fun of it.
New Daily:
2011 Audi A6 Avant 3.0T prestige. 1 of 368
----FOR SALE-----
04 BMW 325xi 143k
The Fun car:
94' BMW 740i 308k miles
Fresh 72k mile engine with all new seals. True E34 Manual Trans Engine Harness. 6spd Transmission Swap, Getrag 420G. RHD LW Single Mass Flywheel. E39 M5 Clutch. E39 M5 Shifter. Factory Car Phone. Factory 6CD Changer. Factory Electric Sunshade. Not So Factory Factory Electric/Heated Rear Seats. E38 Heater Valves. E43 M5 calipers/brakes
Sold:
1996 Oldsmobile Aurora; 194k miles but with a bad paint job and dented fender resulting in a payout to buy the 740i
I hit a roadblock yesterday. I was removing the rear coolant cover to replace the gasket and one of the M6 bolts snapped off. It initially broke loose without issue but after a couple turns it seized up. I couldn't tighten or loosen it. I was using my little 1/4" ratchet so it surprised me it broke with such a low torque. There was corrosion under the base of the bolt head and in that hole of the coolant cover. My guess is the corrosion on the bolt threads galled up the aluminum threads in the engine block and it seized up
It broke with some threads sticking out so like an idiot I tried vice grips and heat (which has worked successfully for me in the past), well I just ended up destroying what was left of the bolt sticking out of the block. I'm looking for suggestions on how to attack this. Is drilling it out and installing a keensert or helicoil in the block my only real option now? I'm not so sure I could successfully pull that off. The hardness of the bolt will probably make it difficult to drill through. I can't exactly take the block to a machine shop either
I've had good success soaking with penetrating oil and drilling them out with a left handed drill. In a pinch, you can use a 1/8" carbide tipped concrete drill and grind the tip for left hand rotation. In a perfect world, the heat and vibration will back the broken stub out when the drill grabs before drilling all the way thru.
"The US Olympics bobsled team has renamed their sled 'Biden' because nothing has taken America downhill faster"
TheStigg (aka "gale")
92 735i 5-spd, turbo pending
89 535i 5-spd (may she rest in pieces)
94 325ic 5-spd
87 325is
Small update. I haven't tackled the broken coolant cover bolt, but I made the harness for the reverse light switch today. I got a Bosch EV1 connector from Amazon. The connector comes with the terminals, wire seals, and wire pigtails on it, if you order these parts from BMW you need to buy them separate from the connector body and assemble them. I bought one that has the same style boot-side as the BMW connector.
20181106_182218[1].jpg
I ordered a rubber boot from BMW (part 61131358330), and PVC wire harness tube from amazon.
20181106_182730[1].jpg
Complete harness:
20181111_162342[1].jpg
Soon I'll be tackling all the wiring modifications that need to be done for the manual swap.
To be continued..
Last edited by m60power; 11-11-2018 at 05:21 PM.
Mildly thread-jacking since this thread and all of you have been incredibly helpful with planning my own manual swap. Seems like most are on 740s and I don't know if it'll be the same on a 735 but, what axles are you using to the diff? Since I would(maybe everyone?) need a lower ratio diff from a different series, are there any issues using the e32 axles? So, let's say I get a 3.46 from an e34. Would I be able to just use the axles I have now or would I have to change something?
As long as your 735 is an "i" (not a 735iL), then yours will have a medium case diff (188mm ring gear vs 210mm for a large case). Any 6 cyl e34 diff (except an M5) will swap directly. The axle flanges on donor the diff should be the same. If not, you can simply pop out the flanges and swap them. You will want to remove the flanges anyway to install new seals. The donor diff may have a different input flange. They also swap as long as the 2 are medium case diff's. An e34 3.46 diff may have a larger input flange than your existing 735i auto.
More info:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...case-diff-swap
Last edited by TheStigg; 11-16-2018 at 01:14 PM.
"The US Olympics bobsled team has renamed their sled 'Biden' because nothing has taken America downhill faster"
TheStigg (aka "gale")
92 735i 5-spd, turbo pending
89 535i 5-spd (may she rest in pieces)
94 325ic 5-spd
87 325is
You are probably right. A 91 e32 735iL most likely has a medium case diff, according to realoem. I pulled a spare m30 head and intake manifold from an iL at u-pull-it a few years ago. I contemplated pulling the diff but when I wiped the grease off of the tag, it wasn't an LSD so I left it. It was a medium case. I believe it had the larger diameter input flange. A 3.46, 3.64, or perhaps a 3.73 would be ideal for your swap. I have an e34 3.91 LSD in my 735i, it rev's a bit too high on the interstate. My son fried my 3.64 LSD in his e34, which I had hoped one day to put in my e32, so that's when I found a 3.73 LSD. I wouldn't want to go higher than that long term.
"The US Olympics bobsled team has renamed their sled 'Biden' because nothing has taken America downhill faster"
TheStigg (aka "gale")
92 735i 5-spd, turbo pending
89 535i 5-spd (may she rest in pieces)
94 325ic 5-spd
87 325is
I'm leaving my 2.93 large case diff in the car, so I never looked into axles or diff input flange differences. Although I may change it out to a 3.15 in the future.
I'm not sure what you need to do for the 735il if you use a diff from an e34. I have put a 3.15 LSD from an e32 750il into an e34 540i. Both diffs were large case, but I had to swap over the input flange from the old 540 diff to the 3.15 for the e34's stock driveshaft to mate correctly to the 3.15. The 540 axles bolted right up. Maybe it's the same scenario going from e34 to e32?
This is all very helpful! Thank you all. I am thinking I will go towards a 3.64 now. I want to be able to accelerate nicely but I don't want the RPMS be to incredibly high when on the highway I will be taking it on trips quite often.
I think the axles will be able to bolt right up. I will get the diff and let you all know what I find out.
Small update - I managed to get the broken coolant cover bolt out of the block. The small length of bolt sticking out from the block was crushed to a sharp point from my sad attempt with the vise grips, so I cut it flat with a dremel cut-off wheel tool. I centered punched the bolt to make it easier to start the drill bit. I drilled a hole through the bolt starting with a tiny diameter bit. Somehow I was able to keep it dead center through the bolt. Then drilled a larger hole with a bit diameter that was about halfway between the tap drill size for M6 X 1.0 threads, and the diameter of the small bit I started with. Then drilled through one final time at the M6 tap drill bit diameter. Surprisingly almost all the threads of the bolt came out wrapped around the drill bit! I then ran an M6 X 1.0 tap into the hole to clear the rest out. This was probably the most success I've ever had drilling out a snapped-off bolt Usually it goes horribly wrong.
The threads in the block looked fairly intact so I tested it with a new bolt. The bolt threads in fine but has slightly more play than the other threaded holes. It looks like the drill bit slightly chewed away a small portion of the minor diameter of the threads, probably because it wasn't perfectly centered. The play in the bolt is more radial than axial. Should I drill and tap to M7 X 1.0 to be safe, or would it be ok as is?
Last edited by m60power; 11-25-2018 at 08:33 PM.
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