Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 109

Thread: BMW CCA IP Build

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bergenfield, NJ
    Posts
    1,144
    My Cars
    '99 M3 '10 X5 35d '02 M3
    Final update for 2018!

    I've been away for several weeks and really have not had any time to update this thread or work on the car. Combination of work, interviewing for new jobs out of state, a proposal and now wedding planning, have really restricted the time I have been able to dedicate to this project. It's an unfortunate reality, but there is zero percent chance I get this car done in time for the VIR CRS in April. Even if the car were 100% finished in time, to have its first run/shakedown be at a CRS would be unwise. So! The goal now is to get it done by May, run a few days at LRP/Palmer/WGI and attend the June school at Palmer. Not particularly thrilled at the idea of a Palmer school vs. WGI but is what it is.

    Was able to get two solid days of wiring work done on Thursday and Saturday of last week. Really just more of the same picture wise but here is where we stand:

    The rear of the car is completely stripped of any wire that is not needed; the only items that are left are ones that relate to the rear lights. I will be adding back some wires for the rain light, and later the diff cooler, but this is what's left of the OEM wires.


    My process was to take a branch of the harness, say the wiring for the trunk lock, unwrap the harness tape up to a certain point, pull out that branch of the harness from the larger loom up to that certain point, trim the wires, label the new ends, rinse and repeat. I did this with each separate branch/item that I removed (lights, radio items, emission items, etc.) and repeated this process until all of the wires were separated up until driver's footwell. I thought this is where it would end and I would be able to trace it to the fuse and be mostly done here. I was wrong, very wrong. In actuality, the wires go to the driver footwell, then back up and over the trans tunnel, and into the area behind the glove box. They then seem to term there, and then a branch of wires go back to driver's footwell (green arrow) and THEN to the fuse back. To give you an idea of the path of the wires:



    With this discovery, it was a move of the same process I just described, only this time I added additional branches of the harness such as the wires coming from the airbag module and the center console. At this point, everything that runs through the driver footwell is now entirely isolated back to where it terms on the passenger side. Here is where I stand right now:

    Driver footwell


    Passenger foot well


    Isolated items to be deleted


    Wires that have been removed ex-radio harness


    Next time I can work on the car, the plan is to continue to work on removing the already isolated branches, and then do the same to the remaining center consol branch and the wires that come down from the headliner.
    Last edited by BlackHawkRacing; 12-31-2018 at 06:17 PM.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bergenfield, NJ
    Posts
    1,144
    My Cars
    '99 M3 '10 X5 35d '02 M3
    Today was a good ass day and a very good way to start off the new year. I unexpectedly got a solid 4 hours of work on pulling out the wiring; weather was perfect too, high 50's and sunny.

    Today's work was a continuation of the last post; continue to isolate and remove anything unneeded from the various cabin items.

    Started by removing the mounting bracket that holds the general control module, EWS and a third item that I don't remember. I then realized that most of the wiring that I was removing was actually wired into what I am calling a mass wiring consolidation brick thing (second picture). Within this consolidator, are a dozen or so smaller consolidating pins that connect a group of wires together. I separated this consolidator bracket from the larger GCM bracket and then removed each of the smaller pin consolidators from the consolidator bracket (third picture). This was a major epiphany for me, I realized that all of these various items that I am removing are all wired together in this module and this is what connects to the GCM and later the fuses etc. I've read so much about this stuff but it never really clicked. Seeing it all connected together really helped me to understand it.







    After I separated all the various consolidators, I then started tracing out all wires from the below picture and de-pined them. All of the wires in the below picture are now fully depined; I'm sure I am missing a few items but they include, the rear EVAP wiring, gas door lock, trunk lock, license plate lighting, radio harness, door harnesses, most of the center console and any wiring in the roof



    As a DIY for anyone looking to do this themselves, once you remove the larger consolidator bracket in the second picture (above) from the GCM bracket, you can remove the smaller consolidators by pinching together the prongs at the top of the connector in the below picture (not circled) and pushing down. To remove the black protective bracket from the pins themselves, use a thin pic tool, eyeglass sized flat head, etc and insert it into the bottom of the connector. You are trying to lift the little prongs, circled in red, just enough to pull out pin bracket.



    Once you have the protector removed, insert the pick into the top of the pin and continue to push until the bottom of the pin (closest to the wire) starts to deform. Do the same to the opposite side of the pin and it should pull off easily. You can see where the pin secures itself to the plate in the first picture, second from the left. that little square. You are trying to deform the pin so it is no longer locked into this square. Just be careful not to use too much force because you will stab yourself.





    Happy New Year to all of BF.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    1,156
    My Cars
    E36
    Very nice progress and you're doing things right the first time around. It may seem like a delay in your schedule but it will be worth it in the long run.

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Northeast PA
    Posts
    1,235
    My Cars
    3 - E30 M3s, '04 Ford F350, '06 Audi A3
    If its a dedicated race car (which real IP cars are),,, my heartfelt suggestion is to take every single wire out of the car and just wire from scratch.
    IP builds are pretty real race cars. No need for any "street" wiring.
    Its so much easier. Your life gets exponentially easier.
    Starting from scratch seems daunting at first but its so much easier than reverse engineering BMWs wiring especially in something like and E36 or newer.
    There are so few wires actually needed to run a race car once you have an engine harness.
    Last edited by jimmypet; 01-03-2019 at 07:31 PM.
    jimmy p.


    88 E30 M3 Zinnoberot - street
    88 E30 M3 Lachsilber - SCCA SPU
    87 E30 M3 Prodrive British Touring Car 2.0 Litre
    04 Ford F350 - V10
    06 Audi A3 Brilliant Red / 2.0 / DSG

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    358
    My Cars
    E92, E46, E36
    Im also in the process of thinning my harness and keep thinking of starting from scratch

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bergenfield, NJ
    Posts
    1,144
    My Cars
    '99 M3 '10 X5 35d '02 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by bmw328m52 View Post
    Very nice progress and you're doing things right the first time around. It may seem like a delay in your schedule but it will be worth it in the long run.
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by jimmypet View Post
    If its a dedicated race car (which real IP cars are),,, my heartfelt suggestion is to take every single wire out of the car and just wire from scratch.
    IP builds are pretty real race cars. No need for any "street" wiring.
    Its so much easier. Your life gets exponentially easier.
    Starting from scratch seems daunting at first but its so much easier than reverse engineering BMWs wiring especially in something like and E36 or newer.
    There are so few wires actually needed to run a race car once you have an engine harness.
    100% spot on, absolutely amazing how many items can be removed from a proper race car. If I had to start over again I would definitely start from scratch, but this experience has been incredibly helpful to understand how all the systems are tied together and get a better handle on wiring systems. I've read books and watched videos but nothing replaces hands on experience for me. I think next year one of my goals will be to create a bespoke harness for the car and move the entire fuse panel to the passenger side foot well.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ctwide3project View Post
    Im also in the process of thinning my harness and keep thinking of starting from scratch
    See above but if you're confident in your abilities I would say go for it.


    Look's like I will be getting another weather window to work on the car this Sunday. Hope to get through a solid 4 or 5 hours!

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Vancouver, BC Ca
    Posts
    3,255
    My Cars
    1993 325is
    Have you weighed the wires that you've removed?

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bergenfield, NJ
    Posts
    1,144
    My Cars
    '99 M3 '10 X5 35d '02 M3
    Not yet but I’d wager that it’s at least 25 pounds thus far. I think that it will be 45-50lbs when all is said and done. Radio harness alone is ~15 lbs. I’ve saved all the wires I cut out and plan to weigh the bag when I’m finished.
    Last edited by BlackHawkRacing; 01-05-2019 at 07:27 AM.

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Central, MD
    Posts
    3,845
    My Cars
    1995 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by BlackHawkRacing View Post
    Not yet but I’d wager that it’s at least 25 pounds thus far. I think that it will be 45-50lbs when all is said and done. Radio harness alone is ~15 lbs. I’ve saved all the wires I cut out and plan to weigh the bag when I’m finished.
    That'll be interesting!

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bergenfield, NJ
    Posts
    1,144
    My Cars
    '99 M3 '10 X5 35d '02 M3
    Quick update from this weekend: This weekend I learned that essentially every wire in the below three pictures, everything running to the GCM, is useless and can be removed.







    Of all of the wires you see above, this is what remains. Even with what you can see, most are earmarked for removal, and I have a suspicion that in the end, they will all be removed. At this point, almost every item that ran to the GCM has been traced back to the final connection point before it runs up to the fuse box.



    Here is a view at what I cut out of the car yesterday

    Before:



    After:



    Sorry I don't have more pictures, I snapped a ton for my IG story, but I never saved them. Next time I get to work on the car, the plan is to remove the last branch of the center console harness, which unfortunately is tied into the main harness that runs to the DME. After that, I will begin to strip out the EWS II.

    Semi-Related - Is anyone familiar with this connector? I was able to get the outermost shell off, which is what the picture is of, but I can't figure out how to break open the clamshell it attaches to without actually breaking the connector.


    Here is another picture

    s-l1000.jpg

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    670
    My Cars
    AW E92 M3 Competition
    Very nice to see another build and future racer! I did have a suggestion (not trying to dictate)... Have you thought about taking your car to "IS" specs to start and then in a following year or 2, spend the money to get to the next level? I may have missed as I skimmed the first couple of parts.

    Looking forward to seeing you out there!

    Edit: Btw, your passenger side rotor shown in post #18 is on the wrong side of the car (indicated by vanes)..
    Last edited by purplem3pursuit; 01-15-2019 at 11:56 AM.
    Alex

    [SIZE=1]BMWCCA# 368302

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bergenfield, NJ
    Posts
    1,144
    My Cars
    '99 M3 '10 X5 35d '02 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by purplem3pursuit View Post
    Very nice to see another build and future racer! I did have a suggestion (not trying to dictate)... Have you thought about taking your car to "IS" specs to start and then in a following year or 2, spend the money to get to the next level? I may have missed as I skimmed the first couple of parts.

    Looking forward to seeing you out there!

    Edit: Btw, your passenger side rotor shown in post #18 is on the wrong side of the car (indicated by vanes)..
    Thanks man! Funny enough, IS was the class I was initially going to build the car for, but David LeBlanc convinced that if I was considering moving up to IP at one point in the future, maybe just go straight for it. Intention right now is still to go for IP, but some things are happening outside of the car that might have me limiting the car to the IS rule set for the time being. I'm pretty open to feedback and suggestions, any particular reason to consider IS over IP?

    Good catch re-rotor orientation! I had taken the front suspension/brakes apart after the car's last event and hastily threw everything back together when I realized it wasn't going to be a simple fix.

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    670
    My Cars
    AW E92 M3 Competition
    Quote Originally Posted by BlackHawkRacing View Post
    Thanks man! Funny enough, IS was the class I was initially going to build the car for, but David LeBlanc convinced that if I was considering moving up to IP at one point in the future, maybe just go straight for it. Intention right now is still to go for IP, but some things are happening outside of the car that might have me limiting the car to the IS rule set for the time being. I'm pretty open to feedback and suggestions, any particular reason to consider IS over IP?

    Good catch re-rotor orientation! I had taken the front suspension/brakes apart after the car's last event and hastily threw everything back together when I realized it wasn't going to be a simple fix.
    Haha!!! That is funny... David was actually trying to get me into IP as well out of DM.. But I was happy with the direction I was taking and the ability to build a different class with new friends.

    IS is a great step prior to IP due to the financial implications. In order to be competitive, you are going to need the following:
    - Race Cams, headers, exhaust, intake, pan baffle, valve springs and head rebuild
    - Aero (wing, canards, splitter)
    - BBK
    - Good race suspension

    You are looking at a $12k+ swing with these items. If I were you, I would focus on meeting the IS requirements and build beyond that at a later time. That will allow your pocketbook to absorb the initial blow and allow time to recover and you can spend the money on learning wheel to wheel racing (oh and tires, ). I built my car a couple years ago.. That initial step is a killer and one that goes unnoticed for first time builders.

    I figured that was the case on the rotor but didn't want to just gloss over it if it was indeed an issue.
    Alex

    [SIZE=1]BMWCCA# 368302

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bergenfield, NJ
    Posts
    1,144
    My Cars
    '99 M3 '10 X5 35d '02 M3
    Thanks Alex, I really appreciate the input!
    Last edited by BlackHawkRacing; 04-28-2019 at 08:15 PM.

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bergenfield, NJ
    Posts
    1,144
    My Cars
    '99 M3 '10 X5 35d '02 M3
    Unfortunately, there are no car-related updates for this build. I've decided to remove the wiring harness from the car and finish trimming it that way, however, it's been way to cold to work outside. Hopefully it will warm up early this year. On a related note, has anyone fully removed a chassis harness before? It seems straight forward enough but trying to see if there is anything special I need to consider with regards to removing the ABS speed sensor wiring from underneath the chassis.

    Now for the more important update. This build is changing substantially from what has been laid out previously. Several weeks ago I was unexpectedly laid off from my job with no warning or explanation. Timing wise, this couldn't have been worse. I could write many pages about this, but this is not the time or place. What's important is that as of this morning, I was offered and accepted a new role and can now focus on what I am going to do with this car. Unfortunately, between planning a wedding, dealing with the job fallout and a million other small things, I've decided that racing this year, in any form, is 100% not an option. While I likely could throw together a half-assed car with the absolute bare minimum safety requirements, mostly street-focused performance parts, and run on a shoestring of all shoestring budgets, it wouldn't be fun and would likely sour the experience for me quite a bit.

    What I have decided to do is to finish all of the current open items on the car and do another season of HPDEs. List of things to complete are as follows:

    1) Finish trimming the harness. I am too far down the rabbit hole at this point to stop so I am going to finish what I've started but will be leaving things like the turn singles, ignition light switches, etc. in there stock locations. I also need to figure out how to rewire the windows so they go up and down, or figure out how to rig a hand crank on them.
    2) Repair/replace the suspension items that were damaged back in June. I was so excited about getting a set of MCS,' but it will have to wait until next year. After many failed try's, I was finally able to get a hold of someone at KW and confirmed that I could replace the single damaged strut. I'll also need to replace the sway bar and a few other small items.
    3) New seats, harnesses, roll bar. Hindsight is always 20/20 but guess I should never have sold what I had until I had the replacement items. Oh well.
    4) More weight savings. I am still planning to pull out the A/C, sunroof and sound deadening from the car. No point in leaving this in at this point given how much has been removed.

    Hopefully can get all of this done in a few weekends once it gets warm. Racing is still the ultimate goal, but it will fun to run the car in a considerably lightened trim.
    Last edited by BlackHawkRacing; 03-22-2019 at 01:58 PM.

  16. #41
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Boston MA
    Posts
    222
    My Cars
    IP #114, X5 50, F150
    Sorry to hear that we won't see you out there in 2019. Hopefully with more time, you can get everything put together and get a bit more seat time and we'll see you in 2020.

  17. #42
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bergenfield, NJ
    Posts
    1,144
    My Cars
    '99 M3 '10 X5 35d '02 M3
    Hey look! A non-wiring related update!!!

    Took a stab at removing the sound deadening on Saturday. Decided on the dry ice and alcohol method. Overall it worked well but took more dry ice and more time than I thought it would. Really needed to let the ice chill, pun not intended but now indented, and sink into the material. After a good 15/20 minuets and a few solid blows with a rubber mallet and it all started to break off. Was very easy to do on flat surfaces, very hard on non-flat surfaces. If the weather holds out for next weekend I will be back at it with a heat guy this time to see what I like most.



  18. #43
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    4,754
    My Cars
    are slow.
    Be aware that heating it smells pretty bad. Wear a respirator. I've removed a lot of sound deadening, it's never fun.

    https://www.amazon.com/3M-Respirator.../dp/B008MCUVN4

    edit: Lol, I'm a few months behind. Any updates?
    Last edited by Hova; 07-05-2019 at 08:33 PM.
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
    -Dr. Seuss
    DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President

  19. #44
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bergenfield, NJ
    Posts
    1,144
    My Cars
    '99 M3 '10 X5 35d '02 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by Hova View Post
    Be aware that heating it smells pretty bad. Wear a respirator. I've removed a lot of sound deadening, it's never fun.

    https://www.amazon.com/3M-Respirator.../dp/B008MCUVN4

    edit: Lol, I'm a few months behind. Any updates?
    Agreed! IMO respirator is a must!

    To your edit, yes and no. No, there is no direct car related update. Yes, there is a significant update that will affect the build.

    My new job came with a commute that included crossing both the GW and RFK bridge every day (IE an absurd amount of $$$ in tolls) and NYC's finest traffic. So the future Mrs. and I decided to leave NYC and move to NJ. So we bought a house; or as I've been telling people, much to the annoyance of the Mrs., we purchased a garage that came with a house. As with any home buying process, some comprise were made in our search, like the garage doesn't currently have 220v, running water, or ceilings high enough for a proper two post lift, but I think I scored a win lol.



    If I am honest here, this garage is an absolute dream come true. The old garage I was renting, my spot was less than 150 sqft in total, part of a shared unit with other renters, and 45/60 minutes away from my apartment. Work had to be completed all at once because I had to roll the car outside to work on it, and there wasn't any way to pause and take a break.

    Now I have over 600 sqft of workspace (maybe I should look into another project car, right???), can work on the car after work and not worry about how to triage something when I can't finish it in one sitting. I am moving the car to its new home this weekend hopefully.

    As you can imagine, an effect of the whole home buying process is spending as physically as little as possible until we closed. As such, no work has been completed on the car since the last update. The flip side of this is that now that we are closed, and moved into the house, expect a significant uptick is updates over the next few months... Maybe I'll even make it out to a few events this year.

    As a final note, I stumbled upon this article when we first started looking for a new home and it pretty much describes how most of my conversion with realtors went. Enjoy.
    https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul.../garage-space/
    Last edited by BlackHawkRacing; 07-10-2019 at 01:50 PM.

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bergenfield, NJ
    Posts
    1,144
    My Cars
    '99 M3 '10 X5 35d '02 M3
    Car is resting in its new home and I could not be more excited to dive back into this. Towed the car from Queens on Saturday and spent most of today rearranging and organizing the garage. We kick this off again tomorrow!





    Last edited by BlackHawkRacing; 07-15-2019 at 08:49 AM.

  21. #46
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Central, MD
    Posts
    3,845
    My Cars
    1995 M3
    Nice! That space will fill up fast!

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bergenfield, NJ
    Posts
    1,144
    My Cars
    '99 M3 '10 X5 35d '02 M3
    It's been a bit too long since I provided any kind of update so bear with me this is going to be a long one.

    Work on the car has been slow. After I finally got done removing every last wire that I was not interested in keeping on the car, I was left with this spaghetti monster.



    I was not sure how to even begin to approach this. After a lot of deliberation, I decided I was going to cut everything apart, re-organize the wiring, then crimp and shrink wrap all the connections back together. I started by clipping everything apart and organing all the wiring that had common connections before terming at the fuse box. It was easier to do this over the quarter panel vs in the cabin. This picture should give you an idea of how the process went.



    While I was reorganizing the harness, I took some time to order a bunch of wiring crimps, crimping pliers, wire strippers, and a variety of shrink wrap tubing and caps.




    This honestly is one of my favorite new toys.



    With the parts and tools in hand, I started putting it all back together. It was a slow process, but I took the time and care to crimp each connection properly and then shrink wrap it. In the majority of places, I used dual walls caps; they provide good strain relief from my carelessness and adequately seal the connector off. In others, I would use your standard shrink wrap tubing, also dual wall.





    The grounds were a little tricky because so many wires converge into one ground terminal. I could have, and likely should have, just crimped on a new ring terminal; a lesson for next time. Instead, I exposed an area of wire a few inches down from the wire end and crimped on several wires, say 3/7 wires. I then crimped the remaining grounds to the end of the wire like I had been doing with others.




    Finally, a lesson. A number of the relays are the same color and happen to sit right next to each other in the fuse box.



    My dumb ass intended to cut the front fog light relay (middle orange on in the top row, left side) but instead cut the orange ASC relay. While this relay does say ASC, from what I can tell, it must be kept for the ABS to work properly. The lesson here is not to drink while doing complicated wiring work that requires attention to detail. Live and learn.

    All back together again.



    The final task was to seal off any remaining wires in the fuse box. While most of these have both the fuse pulled and the power supply cut, I wasn't taking any chance. I sealed off each one so there is zero chance of an issue. It also leaves me with a nice flying lead if i want to add in a new circuit.



    With that done, I rewrapped but a number of sections of the harness with tape and attempted to re-install the harness.



    Look at that; it's so pretty! And finally, we have arrived at the moment we are waiting for, what did I fuck up? Will the car burn down when I hook the battery back up? Did I do everything correctly, the first time?



    Hooray, party time. The car did NOT burn down!

    Obviously there are still some items to work on, but generally, I am happy it worked at all. Tune has been ordered and, hopefully, I will give the car its first start in over a year soon.

    For the tune, I've decided on an RKTunes tune for the time being. It's cost-effective, I don't get charged extra for deleting EWS, O2, EVAP, and the Air Pump, and several friends are happy with the ones on their track/race cars.

    Wiring updates going forward will be fewer (I can already hear some of you saying, thank god). I am really happy that it is "done" but at the same time, it is still really messy and not to the standard I want it do be. Will make it work for the time being, but a fresh restart is in my future, likely a painless kit. Should have listened to JimmyPet the first time. Also, a big thank you to aeronaut; hes been really helpful and let me ping a bunch of question off of him.

    With the final stages of wiring done, I've moved on to removing the remaining sound deadening. This time I went the heat gun route.



    It's amazing how well this works. The key is not to let the sound deadening get too hot. Let it get just hot enough to be pliable; otherwise, it turns into a gooey mess. This will be what I am working on for the next few days. Hope to have it done within the next week.

    Finally, cage design has been finalized (at least conceptually), and I hope to make a final decision on a cage builder this week. It's happening, the car is getting a cage.
    Last edited by BlackHawkRacing; 08-20-2019 at 09:40 PM.

  23. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    22,823
    My Cars
    skateboard
    I’m about to walk over there lol


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
    ― George Orwell

  24. #49
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bergenfield, NJ
    Posts
    1,144
    My Cars
    '99 M3 '10 X5 35d '02 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by GG///M3 View Post
    I’m about to walk over there lol


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Text me, lost your number. Found something you’ll enjoy.

  25. #50
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Central, MD
    Posts
    3,845
    My Cars
    1995 M3
    Happy to help when I could BHR! Good work.

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. 1/4 mile time of BMW CCA IP E36 M3 race car?
    By M-SWEET in forum Track, Auto-X & Drag Racing sponsored by Bimmerparts.com
    Replies: 35
    Last Post: 06-11-2008, 07:33 AM
  2. 95 M3 Track car/Racecar (BMW CCA IP)
    By ImPwrdByM in forum 3 series & Z Series
    Replies: 35
    Last Post: 01-11-2008, 10:55 PM
  3. For Sale - 1999 BMW M3 Race Car - BMW CCA IP spec
    By TiAgBeast in forum Race Cars & Track Parts
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 11-11-2007, 01:01 PM
  4. 95 M3 Track car/Racecar (BMW CCA IP)
    By ImPwrdByM in forum Race Cars & Track Parts
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 08-20-2007, 05:56 PM
  5. FS: 1999 BMW M3 Race Car - BMW CCA IP Spec
    By TiAgBeast in forum Race Cars & Track Parts
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 03-16-2007, 05:42 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •