Machine shop #2 looks to have finished the head off to a finer RA than the first shop. Or is it the picture?
Also getting that kind of turn around time is unheard of. Wow!
I don't have a profilometer so I couldn't tell you for sure but shiny appearance alone doesn't necessarily mean the Ra is better. They appear to have been machined using different processes (I'm guessing different types of cutters). The head sure is pretty now though. "Shop #2" is Victory Precision Machine in Winchester, VA. They look to be highly capable (they have a 5 axis CNC for cylinder head porting). I have never been to the shop but they were surprisingly quick to use mailing them the head I dented. They received the head Friday right before closing and it was done Monday afternoon.
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 03-30-2019 at 03:26 PM.
Steve H.
I installed the head last night
ARP head studs
I am using industrial split shaft collars (for 5/8" shaft) as rocker locks because I wasn't paying $10 each for the same thing sold as speed parts for the M30
Not pictured was 1) Dirt that was still inside the head bolt holes of this head that I had two different shops "clean" got scraped out while I dropped the head on and I had to remove the head, re clean it, and carefully wipe my MLS gasket clean and inspect it to make sure grit didn't get between any of the layers (this is what I get for trusting any shop to deliver an assembly-ready clean part)
2) Torquing the head studs while forgetting to install the oil spray bar and having to remove and re-do that
I don't know why but I only seem to get the motivation to build engines after midnight. Not being familiar w/ this engine combined with being tired is a great combination for success.
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 04-09-2019 at 12:25 PM.
Steve H.
Really enjoying this coming together. I can only hope i have the skills to do that one day. Probably by the time i develop them, i won't be able to find parts or they outlaw combustion engines. Ha.
Thanks for documenting this!
Thanks. I barely know what I am doing and I make a lot of mistakes, so don't be too impressed. I was so mad when grit from inside the head bolt holes fell out while installing the head last night, as I had been incredibly careful up to that point to keep the engine clean, especially since I assembled the cylinders dry and used Quickseat dry lube on them for ring seating. I hope I remember next time to carefully inspect holes and recesses even after having a shop professionally clean parts.
Steve H.
I've been following this rebuild since you started posting about it 6 months ago. When I'm done with my E32 board (reading and learning every day), I zip over here to check for your latest images. For someone who is not a Mechanic but has owned and watched repair of my M30 motor for almost 29 years, this is the most interesting thread I've seen. You're a great talent. When the head came back for the second time, it looked like it came from a jewelry store.....not a machine shop. Just beautiful.
Jeff
1990 735I (Auto) E32 Feb 1990 to Present
1996 Z3 Roadster (5 Speed) E36/7 Jan 1999 to Dec 1999
1983 733I (5 Speed) E23 April 1983 to Feb 1990
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2d4tHoHGaJo
https://1drv.ms/v/s!Av20xCMMocSsyEpl...h_oOk?e=ekIcAT
Thanks Jeff, I really don't deserve the praise. There are much better turbo builds than what I am doing. I am glad you are enjoying my updates though!
I am switching over to summer wheels and tires. Mounting a low profile tire on a low offset wheel on my old rim clamp machine that does not have helper arms is a pain because it's hard to hold a stiff tire in such a deep dropped center.
For the engine: I didn't realize I should have had the upper timing cover machined with the cylinder head. Because a total of about 0.005" was skimmed from the head, the top cover ended up being this much too tall. I took this amount off the top cover using 220 grit on granite counter tops
I am soaking bolts in a bucket of carb cleaner because I hate greasy bolts
Regarding installing the timing chain: I bought an IWIS master link timing chain (not thinking about how I was going to deal with a master link). I ended up using a sledge hammer on one side of the master link to back it up and a small ball peen hammer on the other side to rivet the master link in place, checking while I progressed to make sure I wasn't binding the link. I was afraid to do this but it was a controlled process - lots of small taps peened over the master link ends.
A view of the finished hammer-peened master link ends. I probably didn't need to peen it quite this much but the thought of this coming apart while running scares me.
I sourced a V12 starter motor. I think people usually use an e32 735i starter motor but I misunderstood and got a V12 motor from I think e31/e38. Looking at the e32 i6 vs this v12 starter, they appear the same w/ the exception that the v12 starter has a beefier motor. Still smaller than the original starter so you can get to the top bolt.
The v12 starter fits fine, I don't see any reason why this won't work
B35 trigger wheel and pickup bracket (will be using a 179 harness w/ a DIYPNP Megasquirt)
Note the mismatched bolts, the sign of a quality build. I bagged and labeled some of the bolts when I took the M106 engine apart, but I am not someone who keeps track of where every single bolt goes. I used Realoem.com's parts diagrams to check what length each bolt was supposed to be as I put the engine back together and somehow can't find every bolt and ended up digging through bolt buckets in the basement. There are a few bolts from my old Porsche 928 on this engine somehow.
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 04-16-2019 at 12:12 PM.
Steve H.
Keeping track of where bolts go and managing to keep them from disappearing has got to be one of the most frustrating things while wrenching...so, so damn annoying when you go to put stuff back together and hardware is missing.
When I can't complete what I'm working on same day, I usually thread the hardware back where it came from to keep track of it so long as it's not in an area where it can be dropped into the engine lol
I took the M106 parts donor motor apart 6 months ago and managed to put some of the parts in the garage in the loft, some under a work bench, and many in various places in the basement. So there was plenty of opportunity to lose pieces.
Steve H.
I know none of my mechanical items contain numbers matching bolts.
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Use what works, and if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Unless its a 5 speed swap
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I drilled and tapped a turbo oil drain in the stock location cast into the b34 block (I copied what I saw on my M106). The hole I drilled was not quite perpendicular to the boss but it was tough to judge how straight i was holding a big hammer drill (hammer mode turned off) to drill a 1/2" NPT sized hole by hand.
The old Cartech manifold moves the turbo back maybe 3" from stock so the drain no longer lines up. I will probably replace both NPT to barb fittings w/ 45 degree.
The Cartech manifold had 10mm bolt holes for the outer holes and 8mm inner. I thought turbo heads had 10mm studs so I'm not sure why this has some of each. I am using a b35 head with 8mm to 10mm stepped studs because I expected all the bolt holes would be 10mm on this turbo manifold.
I drilled out the center holes to 10mm rather than have to source 8mm straight studs for the center holes
A stud is not going to work for one of the manifold mounting holes located behind the turbo flange. I am probably going to have to use a bolt here.
I didn't buy this Cartech manifold, it came with a bunch of turbo upgrade parts my friend bought and gave to me with a car I bought from him. This manifold is a piece of Sh****** but I'm going to try to use it because I have it and it fits the hybrid turbo. It is cast such that you can't even fit a thin walled socket on any of the lower nuts, you have to use an open ended wrench to turn them. Even then, the hex on the nuts starts jamming on the radius of the casting above the lower bolt holes when you tighten them down.
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 04-25-2019 at 05:56 PM.
Steve H.
I have a chain crimper for single and dual rows if you want to borrow it.
I make E23 parts.
09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
10/1984 745i
11/1984 745i
11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.
Appreciate the offer, already done hammer style. I found the Cartech exhaust manifold is over .025” warped today so that is halting progress
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 04-25-2019 at 05:55 PM.
Blame Ryan.
I make E23 parts.
09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
10/1984 745i
11/1984 745i
11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.
2000 BMW M5 Evolve Alpha-N Tune, Evolve Carbon Fiber CAI's, UUC Short Throw Shifter, Dinan Front STB, Dinan Rear Sway Bar
2001 BMW 330i Dynavin N7 Pro
1985 BMW 745i 18" Style 37's, Team745i Chip, Getrag 265/6, Clutchmasters FX-300, UUC Short Throw Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, Bilstein HD's ("Build" Thread")(SOLD)
1986 BMW 735i Getrag 265/6 Swap, Strut Tower Bar, Bilstein HD's, Euro F/R Conversion, 3.46 L/S Diff (Scrapped)
2016 Ford Mustang GT Performance Pack Stock
2004 Mercury Marauder Eaton M112, 3.4 Billetflow upper, Accufab SBTB + Plenum, 4.10's, Stainless Works LT's, 2.5" Exhaust, Borla Stingers, FX-R projectors, Addco F/R swaybars
2003 Mercury Marauder JLT CAI, SCT Xcal4, Stainless Works LT's, SW 2.5" Catback
1996 Ford Bronco 4" lift, 35" BFG A/T's, MH1 projectors
I found that the ARP head studs hit the valve cover in two places. I had to dent the breather baffle on the valve cover and also grind a couple bosses.
Fits now
Steve H.
I make E23 parts.
09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
10/1984 745i
11/1984 745i
11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.
While I'm waiting for the new replacement bottom mount turbo exhaust manifold to come in, I put a spare style 37 wheel I had kicking around into the trunk as sort of a full size spare. The largest tire I could fit and still cram the tire into the spare tire well is a 215/45/18. The height is the same as the 235/40/18 front tires at least.
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 04-25-2019 at 05:57 PM.
Steve H.
thanks for going to all the extra work of posting this whole process of your work. Learning a lot.
Some M30's used shims between the oil pump and the block to control oil pump drive chain tension, while later M30B34 used a tensioner. I bought the short drive chain intended to be used w/ shims and no tensioner when I gathered parts for this build. I found that the drive chain had a little too much slack in it when I first assembled the oil pump, so I bought two 0.1mm thick shim sets for the oil pump. You used to be able to get 0.1mm and 0.3mm shim sets but only the 0.1mm are still available. I figured I would stack two 0.1mm if I needed it.
Stacking two 0.1mm shim sets made the chain tight enough that I could barely get the sprocket back on the pump drive shaft, which I read was an indication you had tensioned the chain just enough. The chain yields under finger pressure which is what BMW indicates is desired.
Removing the pump to install shims
Two oil pump shim sets
The chain still has a small amount of give in it if you push on it, so it's not overtensioned. Looks good
I also sourced 3/4" hose barb x 1/2 NPT 45 deg fittings for the block drain and turbo so the set-back position of the cartech/TCD manifold works out better
Steve H.
I fished the DME wiring harness through the firewall in preparation for pulling the M30B32 engine
And I had a fortuitous finding. There is a rectangular connector on the driver's side of the engine bay where the engine harness plugs into what I assume is wires coming from the ignition switch to power the harness. The e34 harness, that I will be using because the Motronic 1.3 is the oldest system you can get a plug and play Megasquirt for, has the same connector with the same wiring pinout. How weird is that?
I assumed I would have to cut and splice the body and DME harnesses from different years and platforms. That saves me a lot of time.
I did confirm that the e34 DME harness is 2 feet too short though, and I will have to extend 3 shielded wires.
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 05-01-2019 at 01:18 PM.
Steve H.
My new 60 lb EV14 injectors came in today. I ordered 48mm short OE style Bosch injectors, part # 0280158298, because they were a lot cheaper than drop-in 60mm length that speed parts companies sell, and then got adapter caps to bring the height up to 60mm. I also got EV14 to EV1 electrical connector adapters so these will plug into the 1.3 Motronic harness. I was happy to find they fit properly.
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 05-01-2019 at 05:50 PM.
Steve H.
Could you use an oil filter housing (with factory oil cooler) to run your turbo lines? I have one and am thinking about making my spare motor into a turbo capable one.
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