I am using a 745i oil filter housing and cooler on this m30 block
Looking solid!
I make E23 parts.
09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
10/1984 745i
11/1984 745i
11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.
The hybrid turbo my friend was sold as 'recently rebuilt' by a well-known seller in the turbo BMW hobby, and that I inherited w/ my parts car, ended up being totally trashed. The radial play of the journal bearings felt sloppy so I had a local turbo shop take it apart today to inspect, and they found the bearings were burned and black. It seems like most of the 'upgrade' parts I inherited for this build are junk. So that is being rebuilt right now.
Steve H.
I got my turbo back from a local shop who replaced the bearings and balanced it today. I tried using four studs w/ reduced head size nuts to mount the hot side T4 housing to the TCD manifold but there is one hole where the housing hangs over it and there was no way to get a 12 point box wrench or socket on it. A 7/16" head 6 point nut would have worked better but I couldn't find anyone who made that. This TCD manifold uses SAE threaded bolt holes which is driving me nuts. Why would you build a part for BMW's and thread it SAE even if it was American made. Arrrrrgh. If this had metric threaded holes there are reduced head size copper coated lock nuts available for turbo installs that would have fit.
The only way I got a bolt in this 4th hole was using an old ARP stainless 3/8-16 header bolt for a small block chevy that I had in a bolt bucket. Even with its tiny 3/8" hex head I had to grind a flat on it to get it past the casting. I am not happy w/ how this turned out but it's mounted now.
This turbo manifold moves the turbo back several inches so I had to use 45 degree fittings on the drain. That fits well.
I decided to bolt the downpipe that my friend had bought a few years ago on to test fit it w/ the Tial waste gate
Aaaaaaand it doesn't fit, it's an inch short
I'm going to see if someone makes a 38mm waste gate spacer that thick. I know spacers exist but not sure about a 1" thick one.
Also the welds on this down pipe are garbage. Why would someone Jet Hot coat something made this rough? The bird shit welds on the 2nd o2 bung are so bad I'm going to have to grind them out and redo them, ruining the new coating. I am so glad I did not pay for these parts and they came w/ my parts car.
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 05-13-2019 at 10:13 PM.
Steve H.
Lots of little obstacles along the way, but when you are done you will be happy!
Current: '88 E28 ///M5 Schwarz/Natur | '84 E23 745i Arktisblau/Biege | '95 E34 525iT S50/5 AlpineweissIII/Pergament | '11 E70 X5 Alpine/Savannah | '05 G55k Schwarz/Schwarz
Past: '83 E28 533i/5 Schwarz/Schwarz | '85 E23 745i Diamantschwarz/Buffalo | '95 E34 540i/6 Hellrot/Pergament | '00 E39 ///M5 SchwarzII/Schwarz | '15 RAMME 1500 4x4 Sport Weiss/Schwarz
Talk about setbacks due to being dumb. Several weeks ago, I traded the good running original 3.2 I pulled from the 733 to a mye28 board member in exchange for some body parts. While I was moving the 3.2 around my garage to load it for him, I let my hoist down too quickly and the engine hit the concrete directly on the oil pan drain plug head. This of course cracked the pan. I removed the pan off my turbo motor so he'd have an oil pan, and then I had a heck of a time sourcing a replacement pan. I posted a WTB ad on mye28, three people offered pans, and then none of them followed through. I had to go to Ebay, where most people wanted $200+ for this oil pan, and I made a best offer on the crappiest looking pan on there and ended up getting it for $140 shipped which still hurt to spend as "Idiot tax". Then the seller shipped it USPS ground, which almost no one uses anymore, and it took almost 2 weeks to arrive. The pan finally got here yesterday and I cleaned it up and installed it. I also pressure washed the engine bay and removed the auto trans cooler lines. I might get this engine in tonight finally.
There is a lot of corrosion and some pitting on the gasket rail of this replacement pan. The one I destroyed and also the one I gave away were much nicer than this. Oh well.
Steve H.
The pan thing is a bummer, but your a good man. Thanks from all of us for caring for your fellow humans!
Last edited by TowJamma; 05-30-2019 at 03:10 PM.
Ha thanks. The buyer was loading the engine into a rented, new minivan so I couldn't exactly send him off with an engine leaking oil everywhere. And I broke the pan in front of him so it wasn't like there was any doubt whose fault it was.
Steve H.
I told myself I was going to have the new engine in last night but I didn't quite get there. I should get it in tonight. I did install the clutch (Clutch masters FX300), single mass flyhwheel, a bronze clutch fork pivot, and the Getrag 265/6 transmission.
I am using proper chain accessories so I lift this safely.
Flywheel installed (lightly used from my 745i)
Clutch
^^ I am aware the block to bell housing alignment dowels are missing in this picture. I had to steal them from another block before installing the bellhousing, after this picture was taken.
Comparing the new bronze clutch fork pivot to the high mile used plastic one that I removed.
I installed the bell housing first
Then the transmission
Turbo Oil line routing
My workspace is semi organized. This is a lot neater than I used to work.
18 Psi waste gate spring. This is the "Send it" spring.
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 05-31-2019 at 12:31 PM.
Steve H.
I went to install the engine tonight and found that the Ebay oil pan has a hairline crack and is leaking. I am so glad I filled the engine with oil before installing it - I figured that would avoid me getting excited and forgetting it was dry. I REALLY need an M30 oil pan and I need it soon
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 06-02-2019 at 07:14 PM.
Steve H.
I drove 4 hours round trip today to buy a 2nd replacement M30B34 pan after finding the Ebay one was cracked. This one came from a BMW parts seller. I got home and spent a bunch of time scrubbing this dirty pan clean and guess what, it's also cracked. The seller expects me to drive it back out and give it to him in order to get my money back, or pay return shipping, after I burned half a tank of gas and half my Sunday buying this junk. I want to quit this build so badly today and call someone to scrap the whole thing.
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 06-02-2019 at 07:18 PM.
Steve H.
Golly, wish I had one for you.
Hang in there Steven! This is going to be a crazy fun ride when it's done.
Steven are they all the same? is an e23 pan different than an e24 or 30 with the same motor? There is a BMW guy near me that has some old stuff and I could check him out.
e23, e24, e28 are the same but it has to be an M30B32/M30B34 engine. There are a couple pan designs, it has to be the one that has the oil level sensor at the bottom like these
Steve H.
I hit the crack with a sand roll on a Dremel and then started heating it with a torch to make the path of the crack stand out.
I ended up bringing this oil pan to a motorcycle repair shop today. The owner tig welds and was pretty confident he will be able to repair it. Fingers crossed. He is going to turn it around for me in a day and the price he quoted me was surprisingly low.
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 06-05-2019 at 12:41 PM.
Steve H.
Cracks like that I have repaired with JB Weld. Still under test, only been there for 20 years. But getting it welded is the right thing to do. Way to much worry about small cracks in the pan has caused you to get upset over something that can be fixed. Glad you have a repair going on so you can refocus on the ride and getting it back together instead of giving up.
While I'm waiting to get the oil pan sorted out, I ordered 3" 304 stainless mandrel bends, pipe and some mufflers. I was planning on having an exhaust shop build the exhaust for me but I am so far behind (for my goal of having this car at Drag Week 2019 in September) I decided I'm going to have to do the exhaust here.
I selected a Dynomax 7" round muffler and a Vibrant ultra quiet resonator based on the space I have. I am also using a Vibrant spun metallic single 3" cat converter, not pictured.
This rusty car doesn't deserve 300 series stainless but the thought of using aluminized and having to grind the coating off the many seams that will be in this exhaust made me decide to use stainless.
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 06-06-2019 at 01:33 PM.
Steve H.
Sorry to hear about the issues you are having with the oil pans, hopefully the big welding repairs it well. That exhaust will be nice, I am taking notes for when I have an exhaust built for my project.
Truck looks like a 12th Gen F150.
I make E23 parts.
09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
10/1984 745i
11/1984 745i
11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.
Truck is a 2014 F150 5.0 4wd, extended cab 8' bed. I bought it sight unseen from Texas actually, from Joe Myers Ford.
Finally for some good news. The local motorcycle shop Tig welded the cracked Ebay oil pan and it doesn't leak.
Motor in
UUC shifter with CAE DSSR installed
A few pictures of mocking up how I'm going to build the downpipe. I have a 3" custom downpipe that came w/ the parts for my car and it would work, but since I am building the rest of the exhaust I think I'm going to build the downpipe as well. I would have chosen different routing although this existing one would have worked, and I also will do everything including the flanges in stainless. I don't know why I care so much, because this car is a rusty piece of junk.
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 06-09-2019 at 04:32 PM.
Steve H.
I started laying out the e34 engine wiring harness to see how all the Motronic 1.3 sensors connect
I also started fitting the Cartech water to air intercooler. I had to adjust the turbo clocking a little from where I had guessed it needed to be to get the intercooler to line up right.
The intercooler had missing rubber bumpers on the bottom. I bought rubber stoppers from the Lowe's hardware section and epoxied them on. I would have liked to have them rest against the valve cover but the intercooler did not line up w/ the turbo when I did that. It lines up better when the bumpers rest on the plug wire loom. I trimmed the rubber bumpers to accomodate this. Not a big fan of this due to the weight of the intercooler, but I'll think more about this later.
Remaining elbows the Cartech intercooler came with. I think these were for ancient setups that kept the Motronic and AFM, which I am not. I think I will have to adapt cold side piping, that does not yet exist, to have the recirculation valve dump into it.
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 06-13-2019 at 09:25 PM.
Steve H.
I realized as I started installing the e34 Motronic 1.3 engine harness that the dash cluster side of the harness has different sensors and in some cases is pinned out differently than the e23 dash cluster harness. Of course I gave the 733's good wiring harness away w/ its original engine. I dug the old nasty 745i harness out of the basement and am going to separate the dash cluster side of the harness out of it and use it to replace that portion of the e34 harness.
Steve H.
More fun wiring findings. The e34 '179 M1.3 harness my friend had sourced had all the original plastic wire jacketing replaced with homeowner electrical tape. This made me suspicious. I unrolled all the electrical tape to find someone had previously modified this harness. Some wires are cut and others have been cut and spliced. I am going to have to trace all the sensor wires back to the ECM to make sure they are intact. I am deleting the service port,since that won't work with MSPNP anyway.
The dash cluster connector end of the e34 harness had already been cut and spliced with a non-original connector. I was going to have to modify this end anyway to use some of the different e23 sensors with this harness.
Steve H.
Here is how I connected the Motronic 1.3 IAC to the silicone intake hose. The hose I used is one of the coolant hoses from the engine I pulled from this car but it was shaped and sized right for the IAC in this configuration.
I still haven't finished the engine bay wiring but I turned my attention to what I'm going to do w/ the 12x12 water to air heat exchanger that I am planning on mounting where a 745i stock a2a exchanger would go. This is a US car so it doesn't have any of the cutouts for a heat exchanger.
Bumper off (the US bumper needed to come off anyway, I need to get the euro front bumper on this car, it's been running around w/ a euro rear bumper and US front bumper for too long)
Consulting my picture I took of my old 745i and noticing that not only did a 745 have cutouts for the heat exchanger, but the body sheet metal was also different in this area.
I also noticed the frame horns will have to be cut off to put a euro bumper on here
I was surprised to find that the US car at least had the cutout for routing a factory oil cooler. It does not have tabs on the lower radiator support to mount the oil cooler, so that's going to get some washer stacking
Mockup
Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 06-25-2019 at 03:22 PM.
Steve H.
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