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Thread: What else woild I need when doing a rod bearing change?

  1. #1
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    What else would I need when doing a rod bearing change?

    Hi; I bought a set of BE bearings, ARP bolts and the high pressure VANOS line. In the interim, I also bought a set of Agency Power Headers, a reflash that includes 1ry cat CEL delete, top speed delete, warm up delete. The job will be done by a highly reputable shop that has my 100% trust. What else would I need? I've heard there are "solenoids"... which ones?? Want to do it all in one stop. Any special recommendations PLEASE respond or better... PM me.
    Last edited by jvsantosmd; 10-17-2018 at 11:51 PM.

  2. #2
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    What year is your beast?

  3. #3
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    2007 Coupe M6, 73,000 miles. Checked the solenoid issue... they mean the VANOS solenoids which may run close to $1000 ea, that's an extra $4000 for something that may not be broke. Or is it not broken.. yet ?
    A lightweight flywheel, new pressure plate and clutch coming soon.

    As a side question: do our high rpm friends at Porsche (9000 rpm GT2), Lambos (8250 rpm Diablos and Aventadors), RS5 and R8 Audis (8250 rpm) have the same bearing issues?

  4. #4
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    PS: BE Bearings in back order until at least Dec 2018. Switched to WPC bearings.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvsantosmd View Post
    2007 Coupe M6, 73,000 miles. Checked the solenoid issue... they mean the VANOS solenoids which may run close to $1000 ea, that's an extra $4000 for something that may not be broke. Or is it not broken.. yet ?
    A lightweight flywheel, new pressure plate and clutch coming soon.

    As a side question: do our high rpm friends at Porsche (9000 rpm GT2), Lambos (8250 rpm Diablos and Aventadors), RS5 and R8 Audis (8250 rpm) have the same bearing issues?
    Yours doesnít have the vanos pump problems. So you need all the little parts. Pan bolts, gaskets, brass washers. But I will say I would inspect the car thoroughly, for instance, I have a power steering line leaking so Iím going to change it at the same time. I would buy oil pump chain guides too.

  6. #6
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    Hello community: The car has been in the shop for several days. The rod bearing job is complete. The headers are installed. There was an oil squirt tube that was broken, the torn out part was on the bottom of the oil pan. Good thing my trusty mechanic checks everything !!. It was ordered, waiting for arrival. Any comments on break-in techniques? I plan to baby it for 1500 miles before venturing above 5000 rpm, then another 500 miles to 6500... then... fun again !!.
    Sti
    ll, there's a lingering question: do other high RPM engines have these issues (Porsche 9000, Audis, Lambos 8250, Ferraris 8000) ???

  7. #7
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    Took some days off for a family Holidays get-together... Engine is completely reassembled. Interestingly, as I stated on the previous post, found one of the piston oil squirt tubes was broken, needed several days for the part to get here for installation. Haven't heard of this one before...
    Have several photos that I would gladly share if anybody could PM me on how to get the iPhone photos for posting. Headers are installed: quite a chore from what I hear, I assume it's the same for any brand. The hard part is tightening the head bolts, it doesn't matter if the headers come disassembled. You put them together as the header pipes are bolted to the cylinder heads, then the pipes go to collectors, etc. (Supersprint headers I think??)
    By the way, I didn't lower the front suspension: I took the whole thing off, still had a tight situation.
    Questions: What would the correct break-in procedure be? Should I add oil additives (Chrome-Moly Cerachem) during break-in?
    Last edited by jvsantosmd; 12-31-2018 at 12:26 PM.

  8. #8
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    Well here I go again, posting on my own tread. Well, after 1528 views I think a few people are curious: The BE Bearing site states no break-in is needed since there's no metal to metal contact, there's a small oil layer between the bearing and crankshaft: but wait... the bearings fail because oil fails to get in there. Special bearings are a MUST. WPC treated or BE bearings. So, if only to appease the OCD demons I will do 500 miles under 3000rpm, then 500 under 5000rpm, then...

    I will be using CeraTec additive on the engine if only to pull the odds in my favor.

    There's a question that has never been addressed. Do the high revving Lambos, Porsches and Ferraris have the same bearing issues ? How about the Acura RSX type S, Honda S 2000, ??

    If there's someone who has better ideas, PLEASE share. This is a small community, we need to share our knowledge.

  9. #9
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    Thereís 15 different bearing threads on the m5board with all the information in repetitive form and everyone has their own opinions on bearings. Iím installing acl +1 coated bearings in my beast. Which have been proven to out last stock, be bearings are popular among the followers of Jim c. I guess Iím the only one who responds to your thread. lol

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