Car: 89 535i
It was raining this morning in CT while driving to the dog park so I had my lights and wipers on. When I arrived I shut off the wipers and then pulled the key out. To my surprise the engine kept on running. Once I got over my surprise I remembered the lights were on and turned them off. The engine then died.
Car has a remote start/alarm/keyless entry system that I installed about 4 years ago. It has been working flawlessly until about a month ago where the lock signal results in a lock and then an unlock. On the second lock signal the car locks normally. I will replace the remote start module sometime this weekend.
I haven't had the chance to look at things yet. Anyone care to take a WAG?
cheers
demet
I would say start with the fuses, or just eliminate the remote start module and see if you can replicate the problem. I really really hate electrical problems, we just had a tough one at work, and im still dealing with my BS but those voltage regulators finally arrived literally as we speak im looking at them.. stupid hurricane f'd up shipping. lol.
Herr, wirf Hirn vom Himmel! ... oder Steine, Hauptsache er trifft.
88 Alpineweiss / black E30 M3 -Project.
Brilliantrot / black US SPEC 3/90 prod e34 M30b35 535i 5spd - Modded.
98.5 Tiag Silber /black e36 m3 - Modded.
99.5 Estoril Blau /dove e36 m3 - Modded.
07 Crimsonrot /black E83 X3 6spd - Stock..
Ominous...? Last time I had these kinds of problems, it turned out to be an unfused data link wire that required taking out half the interior to repair. Or benign....? I once had a dash light issue that turned out to be lots of condensation at the ignition switch.
Recommend removing the diagnostic cap and investigating the wires (particularly a White/Yellow) leading up to it.
Also, your alarm system throws a whole new set of variables into the mix. "Remote start module"?
Does the system flash lights etc when the alarm goes off ? If so I'm thinking it is the alarm system controller, probably fried a .5cent capacitor or something and is sending power to the ignition keeping the car running. Usually electrical problems we get in are due to water getting into a fuse box. (A lot of acura fuse boxes are near the driver foot well are right by the sunroof drain which gets clogged and spills water onto the fuse box.. great design acura.. but it keeps me employed so its okay i guess lol)
Herr, wirf Hirn vom Himmel! ... oder Steine, Hauptsache er trifft.
88 Alpineweiss / black E30 M3 -Project.
Brilliantrot / black US SPEC 3/90 prod e34 M30b35 535i 5spd - Modded.
98.5 Tiag Silber /black e36 m3 - Modded.
99.5 Estoril Blau /dove e36 m3 - Modded.
07 Crimsonrot /black E83 X3 6spd - Stock..
I remember reading about that wire in your posts. I'll take a look at it.
For the remote start systems on the cars I use the Excalibur AL-1830-EDPB. They interface well with the existing wiring and don't need additional relays for the positive trigger e34 locks.
I'm pretty sure this must be an error on my part so I'll have to retrace the work I did recently, with the most recent being installing led fog light bulbs last week.
demet
updates ?
Herr, wirf Hirn vom Himmel! ... oder Steine, Hauptsache er trifft.
88 Alpineweiss / black E30 M3 -Project.
Brilliantrot / black US SPEC 3/90 prod e34 M30b35 535i 5spd - Modded.
98.5 Tiag Silber /black e36 m3 - Modded.
99.5 Estoril Blau /dove e36 m3 - Modded.
07 Crimsonrot /black E83 X3 6spd - Stock..
Not yet but I still think it has something to do with the fogs that I meddled with a while ago to get them to run as DRLs. I have a feeling I should have diode isolated the wiring to avoid the backfeeding of current through the light switch. Hopefully it's not some burnt curcuit backfeeding but user error on my part.
demet
Considering that your new remote lock start module is already causing problems, it must be the prime suspect here as well.
- - - Updated - - -
Is this a repeatable problem or did it happen just that one time? If repeatable, then pulling the fogs' fuse should determine if that's the cause immediately. Then you can go to the trouble of disconnecting the remote lock to check.
I can't think of a thing in the factory wiring that could cause this.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Unfused always-hot data link wire overheated and melted a 7-wire splice, which was physically bundled with a million other splices under the main fusebox. Some of those splices then got voltage from the data link, resulting in - among other problems - my headlights staying on regardless of key or switch position. This was all unmodified factory wiring.
Had a chance to check out a few things and my remote start system is just fine. So I figured it had to be the last thing I touched and that was the fog light switch. To use my fogs as DRLs I tapped the blue wire from the diagnostic connector at pin 12 and connected it to the yellow/violet wire at the fog light switch. After reflecting on my wiring job I'm definitely an idiot on this one. I should have checked how I did this on the other e34 and I would have seen that I cut the yellow/violet wire and connected the blue wire at yellow/violet wire on the fog light switch side. By not cutting the wire I was backfeeding current all the way to fuse 3 and beyond, whenever the light switch was turned on. Another way of doing this would have been to use diodes to isolate the two current paths, like this
Lesson learned. I'm so glad I didn't melt any wires together, this time.
demet
Bookmarks