You checked the cam signal wire right to the computer and its fine? How did you check the signal? The only way to properly test the signal is by using an oscilloscope.
Can you swap the vanos solenoids between banks or intake/exhaust? Try that and see if the code moves. You said the codes moved the first time you checked timing? Sure you didn't swap them then? The MAF code I wouldn't worry about that just yet. If swapping solenoids doesn't do anything you're really going to need an oscilloscope to see what's going on with the signal(s).
I finally can see a little light at the end of the tunnel!
So my last thought about the sensor being kind far from the reluctor was right. I still can't explain how but it is. Today I got one of the extra sensors and grinded the base to see if I could get a it a little deeper and "voilą" I got the damn sensor working.
I did switch sensors one more time from exhaust to intake and vice versa and again, the "not working" exhaust CPS read the intake reluctor, but the "working" intake CPS wouldn't read the exhaust reluctor.
So at this point I was positive that I didn't have any problems with the sensors itself or wiring issues. Then I thought, I have to try to make the sensor go a little deeper. So I got my grinder and the results you can see in the picture attached.
However the car still runs rough so I cleared adaptations with inpa and ram_backup with tool32 which made the car a little better but not good yet.
Took it to a very short drive and the results are:
P0393 is gone but P0102 still there. Including now P0300 & P0304 & P0305. I'm pretty sure the new ones are just because of misfire as the car still struggling.
Definitely now my issue got to be a vacuum leak
I know that my issue is not solved yet but I'm so glad that I got that sensor working and definitely is not a timing issue.
Now I'm ready for the next step.
20190414_145700.jpg
Last edited by davidisurf; 04-17-2019 at 12:02 AM.
Just want finalize this thread with my solution...
I got another valve cover (bank 2) from the junk yard and done, codes are gone. However a little misfire was there. Replaced both PCV valves and cars is running fine.
One thing I should say to anyone attempting to work on the valve covers. Remove the nuts holding the motor mount and use a car jack to lift your engine (doing one side at the time) it will give you a HUGE extra space to remove and re-install the covers. Trust me it's a must IMHO
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