The final junkyard project

[spyderg0d]

spydergod, i think you're mistaken with the temperature thing. Xw-40 and Xw-30, the number after the W is for operating temp vicosity. Cold start viscosity is defined by the number in front of the W. I use 0w-40, too, because it gets very cold here and i want my oil to be as liquid as possible (at startup) for as long as possible when temperatures drop.

Yes.. for some reason I learned oil viscosity ratings backwards years ago, and i never remember the proper. As in 0 is thick and higher number is thinner. I will attempt to break the motor in as soon as possible and put 10-40 in.
What is the differences you guys experience with synthetic vs. Sae?

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I do remember clearances play a role in it from 1 article I read. All of my clearances are plastiguages .0012". Even across journals, With the exception of middle journal at .0015". All rods are .0012" as well.

[spyderg0d]

Rear abs sensor came in today. I should be getting my foxwell ntwhatever tm that does all the obd1 stuff. It will be nice to have a scanner that actually goes to the car for the first time ever in my life. I dont know the limitations of obd1 diagnostics, but its supposedly 100% applicable to all modules and live data reading and codes and the sort and coming with a round port connector.

[spyderg0d]

So apparently the build for the pandemic car was may or June. (That's the car the engine dme and all the sort I'd off). So.. the later style throttle cable should fit. Hopefully it will be in tm morning.

Boaght a foxwell nt530 loaded with bmw software... not sure but it wont connect to abs system. It does read engine codes and some engine diagnostic tests like icv and 02 heater element. Supposedly it can live data read as well on obd1.

But the entire reason I boaght it was to asc/abs fault read. That's a bummer.

But I changed there abs sensor and light still comes on a few seconds after the cluster lights all click off.

I hooked up a spare old TPS to a loom to the asc motor wires at 350ohm. . Didnt work.. its wierd how the 250ohm brake travel sensor keeps the abs light off... must be 250 ohm is the limit or so of the range of asc motor fault set.

[pbonsalb]

Maybe your ABS unit is bad. That is what I suggested in post #132 above. The electric wiring inside fails. You can search for more info on this; a few people have opened them up and repaired it. If this is the problem it could explain why you can’t read ABS codes. It is also possible the Foxwell is not good enough to read ABS in an obd1 car and you would need a better tool. I like the Foxwell and have the first version, the 510. It is a good value for a small handheld. I also have a full bmw laptop clone with NCS and other stuff. You can buy one for about $500 and make one for much less if you are a computer geek. I am not so I bought one.

[importbanana]

i spent 16 or so dollars on a chinese usb to obd2 + bmw round connector to obd2 plug adaptor, and using inpa i can read all systems

[spyderg0d]

Maybe your ABS unit is bad. That is what I suggested in post #132 above. The electric wiring inside fails. You can search for more info on this; a few people have opened them up and repaired it. If this is the problem it could explain why you can’t read ABS codes. It is also possible the Foxwell is not good enough to read ABS in an obd1 car and you would need a better tool. I like the Foxwell and have the first version, the 510. It is a good value for a small handheld. I also have a full bmw laptop clone with NCS and other stuff. You can buy one for about $500 and make one for much less if you are a computer geek. I am not so I bought one.

Did you update your 510? Then it supposedly would have same capability as my 530 as the 530 is the same program as updated 510 but different hand held "experience". Are you able to read obd1 abs with your 510?

What makes me doubt that the module failed is that when the module failed, I also had a wheel bearing failure in the rear in the pandemic build. One day the light came on and it never went off. I replaced the bearing and nothing. Then the arp headstud failure, and since.
Now... it seems the light is directly related to asc. But my tool is most likely incapable at the task....

I cant make discernable unless I have answers..lol... if a 510 can read it then my 530 can.. and then, if my 530 cant, my module is bad.... otherwise.. my 530 is bullshit... I send it back and get my $220 back for this useless piece of garbage that at most useful ticks my icv every second for self check.

[pbonsalb]

I don’t have an obd1 car.

You will get an abs light unless your 2ndary throttle actuator is plugged into the harness or a resistor is fitted. I did this years ago and don’t remember the details but they are in ACS delete threads. I would test by plugging in the 2ndary TB to see if that makes a difference. If it does not you can move on to the other suspects.

[spyderg0d]

I have the second throttle body TPS plugged in without it being on the throttle body.

[spyderg0d]

Got throttle cable in the mail. Installed it. Works great. Drove the car around the block.. lifter ticks until the cars up to temp still but goes perfectly silent after.
Had dust shield scrape, bent that in. Went around the block again, and one of the exhaust brackets that attach the mid pipe to the muffler broke. Now I have a big exhaust leak. ... fuck.. me..
I wonder how to fix that. I really hope I dont have to drop the muffler and weld in new flanges or something.

[spyderg0d]

After much search I found a "bride" at advanced auto. It needed some hammer to bend it more round to fit the bolt holes up with the midpipe bridges bolt holes. But it clamped it surprisingly well and is holding as good as can be. But this brought me on a goose chase and my final "eggs in a basket" to tie the project together. It seems the rusty mid exhaust hangers broke off. Looking as they were original 1992 it wasn't surprising I guess. I made a new hanger mount from a piece of 1.5" bar stock. Just bent the ends and drilled bolt holes, slipped the rubber hangers on it before bolting it up. Which led me to Pretty much start an exhaust overhaul.

I've always had a super sprint long tube and midpipe since first e36 I baught came with. Who knows how old it was in 2014. At some point I had to weld another bottom cover over the converter, replace the front pipe sections on the midpipe. I got so sick of id/od pipe slip fit with clamps always leaking or just sucking ass that I welded on 2 sets of stock header flanges and get to use the stock gaskets.
The time has come again to de rust the bottom of the converter weld on a new snow skid/protective layer and put in new front pipes as a few of my 5 year old seems have poked holes in the beads this last day. It also gives me a chance to beautify it and make it look like some experience has happened over the inexperience that was apparent in the workmanship and poor fitment before. Lol.

I managed to get the midnpipe to sit further up in the cavity by about an inch. I got 4 45degree bend pipes from advance auto and they made the curves almost perfectly from the headers to the front of the midpipe. It sits all mocked up tonight. I get to weld it all together tm.

[spyderg0d]

Rain today. So no welding exhaust together. So I spent an hour drilling out a banjo bolt and welding a nut on the end to adapt a oil pressure gauge.

Broke an end to the oil feed line... because that's how my life works.
Looks like Wednesday I can weld the exhaust up and get this thing inspected.

[spyderg0d]

Recieved the second style throttle cable...

They are the same thing.
Same ends. Same length. Same adjuster. Same rubber grommet. The only different I see is this one has a sheath around the cable dress. Idk what for. But they are certainly interchangeable.

[importbanana]

Why did you order the second style throttle cable?

[spyderg0d]

Why did you order the second style throttle cable?

The listings for the parts have separate part numbers and say for certain years. My car is a 95, made in August of 95, BUT it came with a DINAN large throttle body. So what cable was a toss up.. each was under $40 so I figured I'd just buy each and not wait an extra week incase the one I ordered was wrong.

After getting both, turns out both part numbers are the exact same part in every way. So now I have an extra throttle cable.

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Got the exhaust fitted and installed. A perfect fitting exhaust makes work sooooo much easier.
Installed oil pressure gauge in engine bay. I get 55lbs at start up and it gets to about 10-15lbs just as getting to ot.

But myself made banjo bolt to oil feed adapter leaks just a smidgen. So I ordered one of those obd1 oil filter caps that are prepped. That should be in monday.

[spyderg0d]

Also.. anyone else notice the difference between vanos and power steering banjo bolts?. Vanos are hollow, power steering have a spring loaded valve in there. I assume this is to allow power steering fluid to only go one way through the rack.

[spyderg0d]

I realised today I have forgotten all about my horn problem. (Horn is required to pass inspection in ny)... I lost my slip ring years ago.. I now see that they are $80-$200 from used to new... holy shit.

[spyderg0d]

Found one on ebay for $70 that should be in by monday.
But to suit my anxiety, I've been stressing over rear camber.
Supposedly the 37s, with the whatever sized tires to fit e36 still leave the car with a very tight like 3 or 4 degrees of camber to fit in the rear. The fronts fit perfectly with 0 camber and lowered.

I already pulled the rear wheel arch lips extremely gently to get where it is now. I know for a fact I could roll them a tiny bit more and get rear camber to the 2 (maybe 1) degrees.
In preparation for the alignment and inspection this week.

[pbonsalb]

I will be running 17x10 with flares next year. On 17x9 now with 275/40 and 255/40, heavily rolled and pulled and not lowered much. I want traction and handling.

[spyderg0d]

I will be running 17x10 with flares next year. On 17x9 now with 275/40 and 255/40, heavily rolled and pulled and not lowered much. I want traction and handling.

If you got power, just go 285 and up. The pandemic could break 265/35/18s NA before the headstud failure going into a hard 2nd gear drop.

I would get as close to rear side with front side of you can. 255 is already too low compared to a 275. Just from maybe my *limited* experience, I found the car gets pretty tight if your 15 and over wider in the back. .. but I also had the 37s with those offsets, so that might've contributed alot to it.

[spyderg0d]

So. I worked up the guts to take it for a good spin without any inspection sticker. I made it around a few times and noticed a horrible bottom end power.
Figured it's just rings yet to be set.
Drove it another 10 miles, filled up on gas,CEL lit up with 1221 02 sensor code. No buggy. Figure it's been sitting collecting dust for most a year, it's also mounted in 1 header (not prime 02 real estate zone). I didnt dive into it much, just changed out the coil pack on cylinder 1 as it measured about .3 higher than the rest (they all tested high while hot, but got in spec as they cooled).

Took it on another drive but this time on a short piece of highway. On the way up,bit felt alittle dogish. But it seemed as soon as I turned around and got up to speed, idk if the brand new vanos filled up or what, but it got its balls back. After that it seemed to smooth out, pull strong (extremely strong up top). The cel never clicked off, but il be investigating that tomorrow. Maybe new sensor, maybe it's because I filled with 91 instead of 93. Maybe the sensor just went to shit sitting in the basement even though it was a relatively new sensor, still shiney and clean color pigtail.

[pbonsalb]

If you got power, just go 285 and up. The pandemic could break 265/35/18s NA before the headstud failure going into a hard 2nd gear drop.

I would get as close to rear side with front side of you can. 255 is already too low compared to a 275. Just from maybe my *limited* experience, I found the car gets pretty tight if your 15 and over wider in the back. .. but I also had the 37s with those offsets, so that might've contributed alot to it.

I have about 700 rwhp and use Toyo RA1 R compound tires and they hook pretty well given the power. On the E36, I like 17” wheels with 40 series tires for ride quality, cost and weight. The extra squish over 35 series actually helps straightline traction a little. With the Hard flares, http://www.hardmotorsport.com/hard-m...bmw-e36-coupe/
I should be able to lower it a little more without rubbing. These flares don’t really support more than 285, and get get that size, I’d have to go to 18s. Pretty limited options for wide 17s. I don’t mind the stagger in the front since huge front tires add drag and can tramline. I try to use offsets that fit, ET40 on the current 17x9s, but use 10 or 12 mm spacers up front to clear the struts (TCK SA coilovers). I think the offset on the 17x10s is ET25.

[spyderg0d]

I have about 700 rwhp and use Toyo RA1 R compound tires and they hook pretty well given the power. On the E36, I like 17” wheels with 40 series tires for ride quality, cost and weight. The extra squish over 35 series actually helps straightline traction a little. With the Hard flares, http://www.hardmotorsport.com/hard-m...bmw-e36-coupe/
I should be able to lower it a little more without rubbing. These flares don’t really support more than 285, and get get that size, I’d have to go to 18s. Pretty limited options for wide 17s. I don’t mind the stagger in the front since huge front tires add drag and can tramline. I try to use offsets that fit, ET40 on the current 17x9s, but use 10 or 12 mm spacers up front to clear the struts (TCK SA coilovers). I think the offset on the 17x10s is ET25.

Yea. I liked the 235/45/17 on my style 5s. Great for comfort especially on wifes e46. Like riding on a cloud.

I never had an issue with nibbling. Maybe the pandemics track with played a roll, but I did have issues with heavy rain and hydroplaning above 40mph.

I cant say offset ever mattered to me. I think the pandemic all started because I got the 37s, and some spacers, and just beat the snot out of the fenders until they fit. Then I just went for it. Then I got real big spacers and a welder. Lol

Which reminds me, I wonder if my 5s will fit the coupe now that the rear fenders are pulled so slightly.

[spyderg0d]

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Not sure if I eve mentioned. Installed brand new e46 drilled slotted rotors and pads then other day. My pads were so old they metal clips that hold the pad into the bore had rotted off. Stops so smoooooooth. Car is like butter. New brakes, new tires,new bushings, new spring and shocks, .... god I love this car.

[spyderg0d]

So, I tried my new Foxwell bmw equipped scanner again at the cel. And IT WORKED! I can read most live data parameters. I seen the maf was at 16kg at idle, swapped it out with one that read the correct 12kg at 550-600idle for a 3l.
I also noticed my 02 sensor stays from .69-.72 volts when at OT for about 20 minutes.

[spyderg0d]

So. Got a new 02 sensor. Found it read at .8v consistantly. .. after double checking coils and spark plugs and tryingnout all of my 5 mafs,the only thing i could relate was the lack of power at very low end. I didnt realise I had the lack of power, but after popping the valve cover and double checking the timing, I found I was off by the 1mm of vanos gear inset. (This is very easy to do on stock cams, but with a m54b30 ground down vanos gear, it's almost impossible to judge the mm between proper full insertion and not.).

Now she is all in spec. Constant .5v on the 02, the engine got very quite, and the power increase was beyond dramatic at all parts of the rev range.

My 10ohm resistors showed up for the asc delete/abs light off. The light does stay off until I drive for a bit. I cleaned both rear speed sensors and it didn't resolve.

As my life goes, I found a very small oil leak that's either coming from the rear main seal, the gasket, or the oil pan where it meets the rear main seal.

Also. First oil change. Had alittle glitter, but not enough to say it's even normal for a brand new engine. Went with Quakerstate 10-30 knowing it's getting another oil change in 50-75 miles.. oil change also made the engine quiet before the vanos re-time.. so I'm thinking Quaker state is better than Castrol gtx.