The final junkyard project

[spyderg0d]

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Gas peddle mount had to get fabbed in. A hole about 3 inches away i fabbed closed. And it turns out the entire area where the clutch foot would rest was not worth saving.. So its cut out and getting a sheet.

I can see the jack mount, and can seethe basic structure of it. Wont be hard to replace or repair, juat time consuming. Been here 6 hours and just finishing getting to the floor panel install.

[spyderg0d]

Finished the driver floor and gas pedal mount.
I got all the wireing packaged ok, sort of... And got the electronics in. Bleed the clutch and brakes. Turn my switch to position 2 and everything lit up properly. The air blower blew, all the controls work, the lights work (that are plugged in.. However I did find a few problems when going to start the car. First my fuel pump didnt kick on. Then it did after a few cranks. I assume it was ews doing something to figure out what was going on. So I installed the new crank sensor. Engine started fireing and fuel pump started working, but stalling and no start. I also noticed the fuel pump was late comeing on. Then I noticed that when the fuel pump came on, also while I jumped it at the relay, the right blinker light would come on the cluster solid, and the corner lights would illuminate outside the car... So... Il have to figure that small short out. Also, I found cylinder 3 to either be not fireing, or not combusting properly which is most likely the no start problem. The engine manages to chug along barely holding on if I hold the throttle down as soon as I crank. I remember there being some water in the intake ports over the summer while it sat for weeks. Coil packs tested great. Il be throwing new plugs in, and oiling the cylinders this weekend. And il test the circuits to them as well on the obd2 coil harmess I adapted and may have a cold or loose joint. 20191006_160048.jpg

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[spyderg0d]

I poked around in my fuse box, followed the fuel pump circuit and found nothing wrong. I did however find a bunch of metal grind dust in the connectors in the driver footwell. After that, the right turn indicator stopped lighting up while cranking. The car still backfires and stumbles and doesn't idle. Obviously it either still washed cylinder, or coil 3 isnt firing.

[spyderg0d]

Think ive narrowed it down to bad gas. I forgot that my gas tank sat around for the entire spring uncovered. So stupid of me to forget that. And when I installed the obd2 coil harness, the ground strap goes to the cylinder 3 ground stud instead of the front of the head on obd1. So that might be why my coil 3 is having troubles. Anyway, testing thee theories tm.

[spyderg0d]

Ran all the gas out of the tank and rail, put new gas in and she started up perfectly. Clutch and brakes work great as well. However sometimes it takes it a couple seconds before it catches and fires while cranking. And I also noticed my coolant temp guage isnt functioning properly. I broke a passenger corner light while installing, old brittle plastic.

So the list to finish and get this thing winter driving ready.
1. Coolant sensor wire trace/ bleed the coolant
2. Clean car out/order clear corner lights
3. Passenger rear wheel bearing replace
4. Passenger floor pan and jack post/ turn all the drilled/slotted rotors from surface rust
5. Get rear window seals to sit in place
6. 4 wheel alignment
7. Install car seat tie down hooks
8. Get good modified car insurance /Not wreck it this winter by doing dumb shit

[spyderg0d]

.... Made the newb mistake. Pligged cluwter coolant temp sensor into oil pressure switch.
Ordered clear corners, wont be here till next monday.
Bleeding now.

[spyderg0d]

Went through a few other oddball mistakes.. 1. Plugged brake pedal plug into dimmer switch that made right side fuse blow... I got a vlutch master that pulled the rod out and had to be replaced... The new working master juat blew out my older slave cylinder which is arriving today.. I figured out style 5s fit upfront on 235/45/17s but the rears absolutely do NOT. Lol. I also figured out that i didnt pull the harness far enough to the left that runs the body control and the aort of ecu on the right side, so my foot rest plastic is a bitch to fit in and Im worried it will wear on wires.. So ill have to take the dash out and the heater box, pull the harness to the left.... But... Car starts, no cell, just minor things to get going.. Like always. Lol.

[spyderg0d]

Now that I think of it,. Probably blew thw slave because i dont have a clutch stop on the pedal... Guess il be making one of those tn with crap from lowes. 🙌 another problem down!
Anyone have a fender roller so i can do a pull? Lol

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Installed the aux fan relay. Lol
Installed corner lights.
Replaced rear wheel bearing collar nut that worked itself unpinched, or i forgot to pinch. Now i have an extra wheel bearing. Woohoo
I glued the rear window seal in place. Although now i have a problem with the sunroof top staying down. The plastic clips are destroyed.
Still need alihnment and install car seat tie down hooks.

[spyderg0d]

Wheel bearings toast, after tightening the collar nut i still get rotor hit on left turns. So wheel bearing is going in this weekend.
Cars on the road. Drives ok. Needs a clutch bleed just to get that last little bit of slack out of it. Its crazy how much more noise you get with no interior.
Also,my obc screen isnt lit up. Even though the check control light comes on the dash. Also noticed my blower motor sometimes doesnt come on. Probably a plug not seated. I will be extending the obc plug looms. They are really tight to get the obc even plugged in.

[spyderg0d]

Ive decided im going to permenantly seal the sunroof panel in. Been debating fixing or cf paneling. I would like to use the sunroof in the summer. But at the same time I really dont want to mess with the tracks. I refuse to spend $300 on a fiberglass panel. So, il just re-seal the seal in, then weld some tabs from the metel panel to the inner car section thats not a body section with paint in a few spots. Maybe il make it a bolt on application and put a handle on it so I can just remove the panel and throw it in the trunk on summer drives or something. That way the card will moatly be gone amd aome more weight savings will happen.

[spyderg0d]

After mocking up the sunroof panel that I had taken off the removed assembly. I seen it was going to be next to impossible to make a manual removable sunroof panel that just locked into place. Not just because the seal doeant actually completely seal the panel, but out of lack of mounting places that would be structurally sound. So, I welded the sunroof panel in place. The bottom inside of the panel has the ledges on the panel itself AND the body. I just cut strips of 6/32 16 guage steel i had left over feom jack piont repair, fit them in the gap under the seal, amd spot welded. Adjusted the panel depth to match the car, and finished. I removed the sunroof seal (that was already loose in the edges) and just glued it back in place. I used exterior gorilla glue that is weatherproof/waterproof on both sides to properly seal in the panel. So.. The panels permenant. Its sealed in. I lost the 30lbs of headliner and sunroof card.
Total cost. $3.68 for the gorilla glue and the coat to wash a rag to wipe up the excess.
Who ever thoaght of those fiberglass sunroof panels, seems like way more money and effort than my way. Lol.

[spyderg0d]

Glue didnt seal it in entirely. The next day it rained horribly and i found a small puddle on my seat when i got out of work. Fortunatly it was only a minor leak. But, it showed the problem. The glue shrunk while it dried and opend small slit to allow water in. Ive come to think maybe the glue didnt stick to the rubber seal either. So, il probably remove the seal, strip the glue, and just black urethane the seal in place or a piece of winsheild trim and call it over. Never have to touch it again until i wrap or paint the car.

[spyderg0d]

So... The car project has finally hit an evolutionary point after alllll the waitinggg for coviddd.

A tube of urethane to seal the sunroof in. A new sunroof seal to clean up the look of it.

The engine if getting put together this weeks after getting the bottom end welded up and line bored. Along with piston rods getting shaved,weighted, the crank dropping some weight, and all new bearings, new oil pump amd chain. Total cost for the 2nd rebuild, $800+ what the bill for the line bore and weight drop will be. And the ease of mind knowing the block is pretty much indistructable now.

I have 2 new front fenders and new m3 bumpers. The hood is ready for paint or vinyl along with the doors that have a few minor dents repaired.

I ordered 50ft of blue gloss vinyl. I figured out i cannot wrap worth crap. So I am waiting for someone to pop up that does it cheap or il just end up haveing the car painted red. Which also denotes that the panem body kit is a no go for a while. So i can make use of my 17" style 5s if i find a tire that fits the rear without a fender roll.

[spyderg0d]

So i ordered 10 over rod bearing set and 10 over main bearing sets with a new oil pump chain for about $200 at fcp.. Which is a pretty good deal. They gave me excellent service too. I forgot to order the chain the first time, and even though the customer service rep said i coulsnt combine orders into 1 shipping, ahe refunded me 1 of the shipping.. I received the chain today. I ordered it all yesterday.. So currently a 5 star for fcp.

[spyderg0d]

So i finally fabricated in a hydro-brake system.. I wanted to use the stock parking brake handle. Ungortunatly the 1 seller that makes a kit wants like $300.. Hell no.. I boaght a $40 in line kit and cut it to shit. Lol..

Only alittle modification and alittle bubble gum (but penetrated) weld onto the trans tunnel and a few minor cuts pf the center trim. Bam.

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Should be able to use the parking brake cover. Put the top of the ash tray cover on to hide the disconect pin. Thenb il only have that back section of the master showing. I think i did pretty damn good! Now to run the brake lines tomarrow before off ahe goes to the body shop to get a make over!

[spyderg0d]

After a few flakes of body guys that never showed up.. I found a bodyshop literally 2 blocks away that quoted me $1,950 for jack points and changing the color to Avus blue..
That includes flushing my shaved door handle doors to mirror and the few dings. Its a couple hundred over my expectations, but at the same time its a reputable old timer shop thats a no bullshit place. So il pay for the ease of mind.. I drop it off wensday. Im excited to have a brand new avus blue chassis. And a brand new rebuild m50tub30 to dump in it when it gets out. I need a garage...

[spyderg0d]

Cars back. I got ripped off for $2 grand. He didnt fix the rear jack points, just welded plate over it. He didnt fix the last hole in the floor at all. He painted the car avus blue with flake, but got paint on the hood and trunk struts, so they blew out. He didnt get any of the waves out. .. And theres light spots in the paint that youcan see in direct sun..
From 20 ft away the car looks great. Up close i just get mad..

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I got the 205/40 and 225/40 tires that the style 37 thread said, and fit my mpars. And this is how she sits awaiting the last hole in the floor welded up on wensday. 20200908_131614.jpg

[spyderg0d]

I guess im not too mad about the rip off. Its blue ... The plan is still to pandem it anyway.. So.. Eventually it can all just get workd out by myself and my detail oriented ways when the kit is installed. .. I ordered a bunch of goodies for the car over summer, so il do a horrible self made photo shoot when assembled with all the goodies involved.

[spyderg0d]

Reading through this thread... Holy shit..
Story of my life. Anything that can go wrong does I guess. LOL!
Starts out red 318is with bad head and windsheild.. Ends up being blue 330 with new paint.. And literally every single wire, bolt, nut, module, and aftermarket piece put on. LOL.
Somethinga wrong with my e36 fascination. 😖💀

[gdavid]

Reading through this thread... Holy shit..
Story of my life. Anything that can go wrong does I guess. LOL!
Starts out red 318is with bad head and windsheild.. Ends up being blue 330 with new paint.. And literally every single wire, bolt, nut, module, and aftermarket piece put on. LOL.
Somethinga wrong with my e36 fascination. 😖💀

No one will ever accuse you of taking the easy way out.

[spyderg0d]

No one will ever accuse you of taking the easy way out.

I started this project 2.... TWO years ago!

Holy crap.. And to think it still need the bodykit, supercharger setup... Oh well.. Guess Im in it as a forever car now.

[ChuckDizzle]

I started this project 2.... TWO years ago!

Holy crap.. And to think it still need the bodykit, supercharger setup... Oh well.. Guess Im in it as a forever car now.

Projects never end. He who dies with the most unfinished project cars is the ultimate winner

[pbonsalb]

My E36 M3 project has been going on 15 years, but I have driven it 100k miles during those years. There have been 3 years where the projects kept if off the road the majority of the year. Last year was one of those — I put under 2k miles on it.

[spyderg0d]

My E36 M3 project has been going on 15 years, but I have driven it 100k miles during those years. There have been 3 years where the projects kept if off the road the majority of the year. Last year was one of those — I put under 2k miles on it.

I still use the same dme and cluster from my 325 vert i boaght in like 2012 that started with 160k. Last time i checked it was under 190k still. I dont think ive driven 100k in my entire life. Lol

[spyderg0d]

Finally... Finally finally, floor is done. After this pic I sealed the entire floor with black liquid flex seal. It doesn't look the greatest, but its the blackest black i think i have ever seen. It willbe a great scuff and rust preventer from shoes or who knows what. 20200919_161329_HDR.jpg