flash to pass and bi-xenon

[makenzie71]

those of you who converted to bi-xenon...how did you address flash to pass? I don't think it's required and I'm not upset over losing it, but curious how others addressed it.

[demetk]

I retrofitted my lows to bi-xenon projectors have have a flap which opens when I flip to high beams. My high beams are still regular halogens.

[TerraPhantm]

The 'ultimate' solution is to retrofit a late model LCMIV and use that to run the bixenon stuff. I believe Blackknight530i is the only one who has done that.

[computiNATEor]

those of you who converted to bi-xenon...how did you address flash to pass? I don't think it's required and I'm not upset over losing it, but curious how others addressed it.

I simply used a 9005/9006 splitter from TheRetroFitSource.com for quad high beams. When I use flash to pass, you can hear the solenoids clicking, and at night it's extremely bright, so I try to avoid flashing people in front of me lest they decide to check their ABS functionality.

The 'ultimate' solution is to retrofit a late model LCMIV and use that to run the bixenon stuff. I believe Blackknight530i is the only one who has done that.

Yeah, that's the most OEM solution, for sure, but I think that the time invested vs. value equation there is skewed heavily in favor of a simple wiring splitter.

[makenzie71]

I simply used a 9005/9006 splitter from TheRetroFitSource.com for quad high beams. When I use flash to pass, you can hear the solenoids clicking, and at night it's extremely bright, so I try to avoid flashing people in front of me lest they decide to check their ABS functionality.

That's how I'm setup now, I just don't really want the halogen high beam running at the same time as the xenon...but at least it'll be bright.

[TerraPhantm]

Yeah, that's the most OEM solution, for sure, but I think that the time invested vs. value equation there is skewed heavily in favor of a simple wiring splitter.

The time invested isn't too bad. The time he and I spent on it was perhaps notable since we were going through uncharted territory, but now that we know exactly what to do, it's not bad. It's more finding the right LCM (or converting an early LCM IV into a newer one) that's the rate limiting step.

That's how I'm setup now, I just don't really want the halogen high beam running at the same time as the xenon...but at least it'll be bright.

In that case you have a few options.

1) You can do the LCM shenanigans that I mentioned above
2) You can do something like this 99-01 E46 bixenon retrofit DIY: https://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=421528

With that said, it should be noted that in Europe, the factory bixenon setup is to run the bixenons and halogens together. You are right in that it is quite bright, and IMO makes night driving pretty awesome (I coded my E46s to function in that manner)

[blackknight530i]

The time invested isn't too bad. The time he and I spent on it was perhaps notable since we were going through uncharted territory, but now that we know exactly what to do, it's not bad. It's more finding the right LCM (or converting an early LCM IV into a newer one) that's the rate limiting step.

Yeah, it's not actually that difficult once you have the firmware updated on a late e39 LCMIV or late e53 LCMIV. The only difficult thing was running a wire from the LCM through the firewall/Ebox to the two headlights for bi-xenon activation. Not really difficult either. My 03 sedan had a LCMIV from the factory with LWR (auto-leveling) built-in, but my 03 wagon had a LCMIIIb with LWR module. The LCMIV from my e39 required a chip replacement, which is what TerraPhantm did, then he loaded the firmware from a late model e53 LCMIV that didn't have LWR integrated. Once coded to my sedan, everything worked properly once I coded on bi-xenon and ran the additional wire to the headlight shutters. On the wagon, I just used the late model e53 LCMIV without modification to the LCM, but I did need to cut the wire that powers the LWR module and power it up off one of the parking lights instead. The reason is that the LWR was originally powered off the same pin required for the bi-xenon activation, so we need to free that up. Once the LWR is powered by the parking lights, it all works properly. I now have fully functional bi-xenon headlights that work like they do on a late model e53, where the shutters open when the high-beams are turned on, but flash-to-pass only activates the halogen high beam bulbs. This should be the same as it is on the e46 as well.

[demetk]

Why do you need to do all this coding work when you can just get the high beam signal to run the shutters from the high beam positive wire directly at the lights? Is there some additional functionality you are adding by doing this?

[blackknight530i]

Why do you need to do all this coding work when you can just get the high beam signal to run the shutters from the high beam positive wire directly at the lights? Is there some additional functionality you are adding by doing this?

Flash to pass wouldn't work at all if you did that and didn't have low beams on.

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[makenzie71]

If you use the high beam signal just for the shutter, then when your headlIghts aren’t on and you hit the flasher you just move the shutter...the lights don’t turn on. I was looking to see if anyone has found a better way than leaving the halogen beam in place.

[demetk]

Flash to pass only uses the low beam and not the high beams? I missed that little important fact.

[blackknight530i]

Flash to pass only uses the low beam and not the high beams? I missed that little important fact.

No, flash to pass normally activates the halogen high beam bulbs, but if you instead hook the high beam wire to the bi-xenon shutters, now only the shutters activate when pulling the flash to pass stalk. If the low beams are off, it doesn't turn them back on when pulling the flash to pass stalk, so they don't light up at all.

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[demetk]

So I had to check this out and with the ignition ON and headlights off, the flash position on the turn signal lever turns on the high beams and I can hear the low beam shutters on the projectors activating. I'm assuming that this is not expected behavior?

[computiNATEor]

So I had to check this out and with the ignition ON and headlights off, the flash position on the turn signal lever turns on the high beams and I can hear the low beam shutters on the projectors activating. I'm assuming that this is not expected behavior?

That is normal assuming you have split the high beam signal using a wiring splitter. That’s how mine work.

[Hakeem530i]

Yeah, it's not actually that difficult once you have the firmware updated on a late e39 LCMIV or late e53 LCMIV. The only difficult thing was running a wire from the LCM through the firewall/Ebox to the two headlights for bi-xenon activation. Not really difficult either. My 03 sedan had a LCMIV from the factory with LWR (auto-leveling) built-in, but my 03 wagon had a LCMIIIb with LWR module. The LCMIV from my e39 required a chip replacement, which is what TerraPhantm did, then he loaded the firmware from a late model e53 LCMIV that didn't have LWR integrated. Once coded to my sedan, everything worked properly once I coded on bi-xenon and ran the additional wire to the headlight shutters. On the wagon, I just used the late model e53 LCMIV without modification to the LCM, but I did need to cut the wire that powers the LWR module and power it up off one of the parking lights instead. The reason is that the LWR was originally powered off the same pin required for the bi-xenon activation, so we need to free that up. Once the LWR is powered by the parking lights, it all works properly. I now have fully functional bi-xenon headlights that work like they do on a late model e53, where the shutters open when the high-beams are turned on, but flash-to-pass only activates the halogen high beam bulbs. This should be the same as it is on the e46 as well.

I might take this road when putting bixenons on mine. Is there a specific p/n to look for when searching for late model e53 lcm?

[demetk]

That is normal assuming you have split the high beam signal using a wiring splitter. That’s how mine work.

OK thanks. I used a soldered splice joint. I'm assuming that wiring splitter is doing the same job.

[g8keapor]

OK thanks. I used a soldered splice joint. I'm assuming that wiring splitter is doing the same job.

Sorry to resurrect an older thread but I wanted to add this in.

But you still get halogens while low beams on and you are putting unnecessary wear and tear on the bi-xenon solenoid that actuates the cutoff that people are calling a flapper in this thread. So rather than doing that let’s assume you just installed your bi-xenons but haven’t connected the wires to the bi-xenon solenoid yet. Also I don’t have the wiring diagrams in front of me but I believe from memory the signal wires are all 12v. Lastly always consult your cars wiring diagrams before cutting and if you aren’t sure then ask or get a pro to do it.

Rather than splitting the signal wire from inside the car... Cut the signal wire where it comes Goes into the high beam relay under the hood. (Consult service manual wiring diagrams for correct wire.) Take the signal wire coming side that is cut off from the relay (not the side still connected) and connect it to terminal 30 on a new SPDT NO type relay. (Single Pole Double Throw - Normally Open relay.). Connect terminal 85 to ground. Now connect the other side of the signal wire that you cut (the side Still connected to the factory high beam.) to terminal 87a. Take a new wire and connect it to terminal 87 and connect the other end of the wire to your bi-xenon solenoids (the flapper). Now take another wire and connect it to terminal 86 and splice the other end into your low beam signal wire. Now if you turn your lights on when flashing your high beams only the bi-xenons will flash. When your lights are off only your halogens will flash.

If you really want to go OG you can add the relay into your relay box in one of the empty spots but I do have to issue a word of caution. Those things aren’t cheap so if you really don’t know wiring I would just recommend getting a sealed relay.
Here is a hella relay on waytek that is weather proof and you can get a connector for it that isn’t a pigtail and has uncrimped terminals too. https://www.waytekwire.com/item/7560...d-Mini-Relay-/

[BarryM]

The time he and I spent on it was perhaps notable since we were going through uncharted territory, but now that we know exactly what to do, it's not bad. It's more finding the right LCM .)

I’ve searched but can’t find anything specific about pins/connections etc so do you have any more detailed info on what to do?

TIA


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[TerraPhantm]

I’ve searched but can’t find anything specific about pins/connections etc so do you have any more detailed info on what to do?

TIA


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I think the original thread was deleted by mods for some reason. I don’t have any notes or pictures saved.