Hello, I have an 540/6. This summer I did a Clutch, flywheel and pressureplate install. Also redid a few parts regarding this job. I have no idea if this is related to this, but my throttle is very jerky. Its hard to maintain a smooth ride, especially in the city. For example when I drive in parkinghouses in 1 gear, I have to be extremely cautious with my foot to not get alot of jerking. What can be the cause of this? I don't have any error code relating to this part.
Also, my gearshifts tends to be grinding. Its a very big concern of mine, and its also uncomfortable to listen to. I do have the clutch all the way in, the clutch have been aired out twice to see if I could eliminate this. Also I tried changing the transmission fluid. Is my transmission starting to go bad? Or is it anything regarding the shifting? Its Especially hard to shift when its cold, but it can also grind gears when it is in operational temperature. The new oil was Royal Purple Syncromax, so it's supposed to be a very good oil. Had same issue before I changed (Hoped changing would make it better). Want to get smooth gearshifts.
Its an 2002/5 model if that helps. Its also an original 6 speed.
Thanks
The Getrag 420G is a robust gearbox. The clutch delay valve (if you have one; many different markets do not) could be causing the shifting problem. The valve is inserted in the slave cylinder line connection.
Did you remove the retainer ring only after the clutch assembly was tightened to the flywheel; this could account for what seems to be incomplete disengagement of the clutch?
Regarding the jerky behavior, it is possible that the pedal or throttle body position pots are showing wear, but that should set a code.
I run Redline MTL, and the box does need to be shifted slowly until up to temp, and I'm using an M5 shift lever.
I have successfully used this bleed procedure:
Bleeding the Clutch Circuit
The only sure way to bleed the clutch is as follows:
Make sure the rear portion of the master cylinder reservoir is full.
Dismount the slave cylinder, but leave the hose connected. Push the actuator rod all the way in. Let it out slowly. Repeat 3 times. Remount slave cylinder.
Good idea to orient the cylinder so that the hose connection is at the highest position, so the air can be flushed out.
BMW has a Special Tool to compress and release the rod.
Last edited by edjack; 10-13-2018 at 01:58 PM.
Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.
Removed the CDV when I did the clutch job. Yes the retainer was removed, if you are talking about the one you remove from the pressure plate.
I've tried to search for the TPS, but I couldnt find anything about one for the m62tub44, so I assumed there wasnt one. What else could it be? And there are no faulty codes, only two regarding the AC/heater, since my fan is starting to go bad.
Might be because it wasnt bleed correctly, but I did this with my dad who is a mechanic. We just opened the bleed cap on the master cylinder, and opened and closes it till we saw that there were no air. Dunno if this would be correct way to do it. I can understand that the shifting is not fully operational until it reached right temperature, but the shifting doesn't feel very smooth when it has right temperature, so its worries me a lot.
Try the procedure I outlined. Report back.
Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.
I will! Could it be anything related to the shifter also? A bad bushing or the shifter arm?
Your car has a drive by wire throttle so you don't have a TPS.
Aaah, that could explain it why I couldnt find anything about it, haha. Got any part numbers for what could be faulty? I kinda want to see if I can get it fixed as soon as possible. Could it be a bad throttle body? Because I've thought about upgrading to a 84mm one
Any way I can find out if my Accelerator pedal sensor is bad?
Last edited by Furyon96; 10-13-2018 at 08:28 PM.
Bump
If your throttle pedal or throttle body was electrically bad you'd get a CEL and Failsafe Engine Program.
Have you ever cleaned the inside of the TB? It could be pretty dirty if it's never been done.
No, I've only had the car a few months. Guessing the other owners haven't done it either. Any good tips what to clean it with?
Pull the intake air tube off the front of it and clean the bore with a rag with your favorite solvent on the rag.
Push the butterfly plate open with your fingers to get the back side.
Do both sides of the plate.
Let the plate close slowly, not slam shut, it's spring loaded.
Also got a tip from my dad who is a mechanic, that other things that could be the reason are bad spark plugs, bad MAF and bad O2 sensors
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