Hello Everyone -
I would like to share with you my simple fix (hopefully longterm) for the dreadful blocked water drain hose that drains the plastic funnels above the rear wheels and should supposedly prevent water damage to the convertible top motor and interior in the BMW Z4 E85. This fix will cost you $5 and 30 mins of your time.
Reqired items:
-1/4” inner diameter (3/8” outer diameter) plastic plumbing pipe
2 pieces are needed each 1 foot (30 cm) in length
You can find this at local hardware store in US:
73597883-F8C3-444B-BFE8-5F1DF22DD0A7.jpg
http://www.sharkbite.com/product/pex...aight-lengths/
-Alternatively you can use a hose of the same outer and inner diameters ( a little bit longer than 1 foot). You can find this at local hardware store in US:
45D035CC-65E3-485E-B236-572D5C03E1C0.jpg
-A drill with 1/8” drill bit
Steps:
1-Drill through-and-through radial holes along the entire length of the tubings about 0.4” (1 cm) apart. Be careful not to drill the holes too big as this increases the risk of dirt passing through later on and plugging the plastic pipe lumen.
2-Clean all the plastic shavings caused by drilling from inside and outside the lumen of the pipes ensuring patency.
The final product should look something like this:
A74B9D79-BF96-4CEE-829D-156A842A41FC.jpg
3-Put the soft top down (open position).
4-Remove the rubber covers over the convertible top hinges behind the doors. This will provide access to the rain drains from above:
63580A12-661C-4DE0-83C7-DA77F76E85B3.jpeg
5-Clean the funnels well using your Shop Vac ( You can attach a long piece of the same plastic pipe to the shop vac tip to reach deep in there).
6-Finally stick one pipe in the corresponding drain hole on each side of the convertible top after verifying the plastic funnels and drains have been thoroughly cleaned. Keep pushing until the upper tip of the pipe is just below the articulating level of the hinge and hydraulic pipes. It should look something like this:
19C95A77-F0A9-484B-B9F8-095E940F9E9B.jpeg
7-Pour a lot of water into the funnel and verify easy successful drainage in front of the rear wheel on either side.
This should prevent any dirt from getting into the drains again and provide multiple levels for the water to drain in case dirt accumulates around the lower holes of the pipe. Way more opportunities to drain the water before it can get to the convertible top motor or into the interior of the vehicle.
Enjoy!
Last edited by tekoo; 10-12-2018 at 11:57 PM.
The convertible top motor assembly may get in the way if its still in the default location. In this case you will have to obtain access from the trunk and blindly feel your way to the left drain hose. Using a hose in this condition may be easier. It should look like this
D3D59A53-5226-4252-A873-59F2D3848E02.jpgE93F501D-8F0F-4A6C-9619-5B3E434E41B5.jpg
On the right side access from the trunk is not possible as the funnel is too narrow and almost completely blocked by the hinge. Using a plastic pipe is ideal on the right side (see first post).
Last edited by tekoo; 10-12-2018 at 07:41 PM.
Last edited by tekoo; 10-12-2018 at 07:16 PM.
That looks like a worthwhile thing to do to stop the inevitable from happening. As for the cylinders, my only option after a lot of research is to send for rebuild.
Florida is the closest and they don’t do exchanges so will probably be apart for some time.
My question is how to store properly.
What is the best way, folded or somehow in the raised or partially raised position.
It can’t be fastened anymore because the mounting points on the cylinders are no longer there.
Thanks.
Is it working the way you intended?
Working beautifully.. It filters away all the junk and prevents it from getting into the drains.
I have the roof back on the car , I did the drain tubing, then decided because I have a weird problem with the roof that I would install the pump in the trunk so I could access it.
It works somewhat better, sometimes will open up and go all the way to fully open without helping, but has not looked open yet without giving a little tap.
It closes fine and locks closed as before.
The odd time I had to assist it soon as it unlocked from the windshield, but took little effort to start it to open.
My question is can I put a little more oil in the reservoir?
I believe the oil goes back in the reservoir when the roof is open, down?
At that point it is hard to add to.
Have to have the roof closed to add. The unit is mounted slightly off centre, so one valve is still possibly near the oil level, maybe sucking air.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks Dave
I tried to add a little oil to the reservoir when it was standing vertical, but can not get past apr 3/4, at that point it just wants to over flow the filler hole.
At this point I’m at a loss, it works somewhat better but not like it should. Everything is new or rebuilt, not sure what to do next.
Adding oil is not the solution for everything. I If you can record a video and show us the current situation and problem we might be able to assist you better. Your explanation is not sufficient. Please try to keep the conversation regarding your roof problem on your thread page so other people with the same problem can follow and benefit. You can also post your video and images there. However without seeing what’s happening I will not be able to help you.
Didn’t realize I was off the original post. Just getting used to this site.
I’ll post a video on how it works soon
Thanks
Is there a reason not to leave the caps in the wheel wells off? They seem unnecessary?
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Anyone have disadvantages to leaving off the soft cap in wheel wells
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The caps are there to stop bugs from building their nests in the drains.
1999 2.8L Z3 Roadster,
2000 3.0L Z3 Roadster,
There is only one thing more pleasurable than working on a Z3, that's driving it top down on a fine day.
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