So I recently pulled the Intake manifold off to do some preventative maintenance on my new 1997 BMW 328i. Anyways I got it running and it took about 4 seconds of cranking the first time, then when I turned it off I started it again and it started right up. I let it sit over night and I cranked it for like 4 seconds, then turned it off and tried to start it again, and it started right up. The issue is now when it sits overnight or is COLD it will not start on the first crank no matter how long I hold it. I have primed the fuel pump at a minimum of 8 times and it stills does it. Not too sure on why, but if I give the pedal gas it starts up easier, but there are no leaks from injectors or anything and it runs super healthy. I do hear like a very small (ssssssss) or hissing noise from back of manifold but I checked it and could not see a vacuum leak.
If it started fine before the work then you need go back and check your work
I have and looked over everything, all is correct, all hoses seem to be fully connected. All sensors are in and in the correct location. It is averaging around 30 - 43 degrees here now also though. Would a o2 sensor cause this in the COLD weather? (Bank 2 sensor 1)? Thank you for those that help and give input, I really appreciate it!
During a cold start, the O2 sensors aren't active yet.. They come online after a few minutes.
Double check Idle Control Valve connector, and double check for vacuum leaks. You might also be in bad luck and the ICV just stopped working, coincidentally. You can take it out, clean it, test it and re-install it.
If you have a laptop with INPA check for error codes, and check the live values to see if all sensor values are correct.
Good luck!
1997 E36 BMW 323i (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:
- Chip tuned DME (190HP/257Nm); 328i dual pipe exhaust (plug&play); Meyle HD control arms, Bilstein B4 shocks
- Fan delete mod: Stock 92C thermostat, 80/88C temp. switch, 80/20% water/coolant; INPA says temps 100% OK
- Throttle body coolant hose delete mod; Comprehensive ASC Delete option list; Solved: -30 additive adaptation values
It sounds like you missed hooking something up and have a vacuum leak. Go back over everything. Don't get side tracked on other things. If it happened after you did a job like removing the intake manifold then something got damaged or not installed properly.
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Well I took off the MAF, Cruise control, and TB. I took out the ICV and cleaned it as it was not moving at all, now it is very loose and free. Also I checked all 3 vacuum lines by the CCV and ICV and they are good. Did you mean connector as in hose or the sensor/plug? The hose looked very good no cracks nothing, and I plugged in the sensor after cleaning as well. Engine only has 108k miles on it...
- - - Updated - - -
Well also after uninstalling and reinstalling my car now under heats unless left idling and sometimes it still does. I have a thermostat on deck and a aluminum housing as it is still plastic. But could the temperature sensor that goes into the head be bad and cause this problem as well as a false temp reading perhaps, because before I took the Intake Manifold off I drove the car 8 hours to Michigan and back, it neither under heated or had this COLD start issue...
You have vacuum leaks most likely. Use a smoke machine to identify them. Seal them up and enjoy nice running again.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
It seems you have two problems. W.r.t. the 2nd problem, the temperature (not sure if first problem is fixed now you've cleaned the ICV):
If the engine doesn't reach good operating temperature, it's probably the thermostat that doesn't close completely anymore. But it could also be the double temperature sensor in the head. One of its (independent) outputs goes to the instrument cluster. If that one is bad, and gives a too low temp reading, then that could also be your problem (well, there is no real _problem_, the gauge just doesn't show the right temperature). The other output goes to the DME.
If you connect a laptop with INPA you can read the live temperature value that goes to the DME. If it corresponds to the temperature you're reading in the instrument cluster, then you can be fairly certain the temperature sensor is OK (as it's two independent sensors in one housing).
Second thought: As you write that temperature does rise to (semi-)normal (you never know what's the exact temperature as the temp gauge has a very large center area; it's very much buffered) when idling, then it must be the thermostat.
1997 E36 BMW 323i (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:
- Chip tuned DME (190HP/257Nm); 328i dual pipe exhaust (plug&play); Meyle HD control arms, Bilstein B4 shocks
- Fan delete mod: Stock 92C thermostat, 80/88C temp. switch, 80/20% water/coolant; INPA says temps 100% OK
- Throttle body coolant hose delete mod; Comprehensive ASC Delete option list; Solved: -30 additive adaptation values
Subscribe to this since I'm pulling the manifold to swap my starter . Fingers crossed I dont f it up .
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This car is AWESOME !!!
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