My new 525i sat for 4 years

[effduration]

So when I went to bleed the system this morning, I noticed the bleeder screw on the reserve tank was broken and you could see where coolant and steam were escaping from there when the car got up to temperature. I had to order a new screw as none of the car parts stores around me had it in stock. I'll have a compression test done but should I replace just the screw or the whole tank? I did bleed from the other bleeder screw and the heat returned to the car.

Bleeder screw threads appear to be M10 x1.00.. you may be able to buy a temporary steel bolt at Home depot. Seal it with teflon tape and DO NOT over tighten. Replace with a proper bleed screw.

If this fixes you're overheat, you're probably in good shape. If there are no other symptoms (like poor running, misfire codes, water in oil, oil in coolant, etc. no need for a compression test. Although still worthwhile as a confirmation on the engine.

[MIKYZZ4]

I don't feel that you need any further testing, unless it's for your own peace of mind.
The new bleeder screw should resolve your problem without replacing the expansion tank.
Perform at least one final bleed once the bleed screw is installed.

[geargrinder]

So when I went to bleed the system this morning, I noticed the bleeder screw on the reserve tank was broken and you could see where coolant and steam were escaping from there when the car got up to temperature. I had to order a new screw as none of the car parts stores around me had it in stock. I'll have a compression test done but should I replace just the screw or the whole tank? I did bleed from the other bleeder screw and the heat returned to the car.

EXPANSION tank man, EXPANSION tank. This isn't like one of those reserve / overflow tanks thats on the other side of the pressure-cap.

I'd only caveat Miky's remark with this: When those are leaking its often because the threads in the tank are blown out because some gorilla over-tightened it. The tank could be effed.

I would NOT use metal on that. The problem with a hardware store bolt is that the factory plug has an O-ring in a groove, and the O-ring is what really makes the seal! The seal - much to the suffering of dumbasses everywhere - is NOT from tightness of the gorilla crankdowning of the threads, but just by being a proper precision O-ring fit... therefore a hardware store bolt ain't gonna support that O-ring situation, or at least not really properly....

You can buy bling-bling brass bleed screws for all the Bimmer motors from the Bimmer parts specialists BTW... they don't solve any problem but they sure do look cool... however they make it even easier to strip out the threads on these tanks. My pro tech buds always roll their eyes when a car comes in w/ the brass screws because they figure there's a 50/50 chance somebody has stripped the plastic threads in the tank with it. The plastic-on-plastic-with-o-ring works fine as long as you just go super easy on it... only needs to be snugged and no more. It gets no extra seal power from tightness once its snugged down, the O-ring is seating and doing all the work already... if it still leaks after just being snugged up, then the tank or screw are damaged.

Therefore the best way to go for screws is plastic, and honestly I'd go with a new expansion tank if I were you. They are known to die with age, unless that one looks perfect and has a newer date code on it like it was replaced, and you can 100% confirm the threads are not forked up.... why not just start on a fresh page with it.

But if you're screw shopping...

Factory bleed screw:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/17111712788/

Aftermarket plastic bleed screw (usually I'd crap on URO but this is one of the rare places where they can't really fork it up too bad, and/or if you just want something cheap as a stopgap... )
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-uro-part...111712788~uro/

Metal ones that I recommend against just for example...:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part.../003530ecs01a/
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Cooling/...der-Screw.html

[kperry316]

Update

So I got a terrible scare on Sunday. The check engine light had been on and I had plans to have the codes pulled when I had time. The bleeder screws came in so I replaced the broken one and was bleeding the system when I heard a clank like a hammer from inside the engine. I ran over and shut it down immediately, cried manly tears because I thought the worse. Well, after some research it sounds like the pcv valve is bad and needs to be replaced. I found several people with the same sound that said after they replaced that everything was ok. Have any of you guys experienced this? Based on my adventures so far I'm thinking of getting vanity plates that say "monypit"! LOL Thank you guys for all your help.

[effduration]

This doesn't sound good. The car has a CCV system (similar to PCV) which does need to be replaced from time to time, but it is a non-mechanical, non electrical component. I don't believe it causes a hammer-like sound from the engine.

I asked you previously for mileage on the car. you will get better informed answers from us if you tell us.

It will take quite a few $$ to get this car ready for the road, and to keep it on the road.

[MIKYZZ4]

Don't panic yet,
resume and finish the bleeding procedures, unless you hear further knocking sounds upon startup.
Preparing a vehicle to be roadworthy after a long period of neglect usually requires more than minor maintenance.
Once running and no overheating detected, have an inspection performed by a local trusted shop,
or a BMW dealership that offers free or low cost inspections to prepare the vehicle for winter, like some dealerships in my area offer.

[djb2]

This doesn't sound good. The car has a CCV system (similar to PCV) which does need to be replaced from time to time, but it is a non-mechanical, non electrical component. I don't believe it causes a hammer-like sound from the engine.

A break in the tube from the valve cover to the CCV valve, or the CCV valve itself, will cause an occasional very loud backfire sound.

Buy a five piece CCV kit (three tubes, CCV valve, oil drain hose) and replace any parts that are bad. If funds aren't tight I suggest buying the lower-cost genuine BMW winter kit, with a generic 5 piece kit as a backup for any parts that break.

Clean the double-wall dipstick tube with solvent and verify that the drain is open. You'll probably need to replace the dipstick tube o-ring. There are also two o-rings on the dipstick, but they are easy to replace later.

[kperry316]

There are 173,000 miles on the car.

[geargrinder]

LOL. So here we all are picturing a barn-find 4-yr stored minty clean 60k-or-something 'great deal' car... when really... 173k car that was parked because it was used up... Sorry man! Hopefully DJ is right... but... we will see...

[effduration]

LOL. So here we all are picturing a barn-find 4-yr stored minty clean 60k-or-something 'great deal' car... when really... 173k car that was parked because it was used up... Sorry man! Hopefully DJ is right... but... we will see...

You bet, that's why I asked...considering it sat for 4 years, that's a quite a few miles.

OP, there is no reason why you can't keep a car with 175k on the road. With proper maintenance, it will likely be rust that finally kills it. But unless prior owners spent $10k+ on maintenance, just about everything will need to be replaced now or very soon, some for the second time- complete cooling system, brakes, fluids, CCV, heater pipes, front and rear suspension, power steering hoses, OFHG, valve cover gasket, etc. etc.

If you are calling it a money pit now, give it a month or so...

[geargrinder]

If you are calling it a money pit now, give it a month or so...

Fully agreed. I got a bud w/ an E39 I just saw yesterday. He bought a car that looked pretty good, had a few neat upgrades, but the PO buddy of his had long since started "running on borrowed time" when he sold it. The PO was clearly "OK I ain't gonna have this for the long haul anymore so I'm gonna skip/cheap-out/let-go things that go wrong". Now my guy is in the same boat and keeps being shocked at $1000 or $1500 repairs over and over. Almost every time he's shell-shocked whilst I am "no surprise whatsoever". And honestly he hasn't even really started to dig deep into getting it back into proper condition. Latest thing it now makes a terrible howl from the under/rear... Could be driveshaft, could be diff, could be half-shaft(s)... regardless its another big $$ he's not really 'set up for'. But - no surprise. Its a super high miles E39. Its a worn out car...

This car with 173k? effdur has it exactly right. Read this carefully.

But unless prior owners spent $10k+ on maintenance, just about everything will need to be replaced now or very soon, some for the second time- complete cooling system, brakes, fluids, CCV, heater pipes, front and rear suspension, power steering hoses, OFHG, valve cover gasket, etc. etc.

If you do all your work yourself AND are cool with the amount of cost and effort AND the body and interior is in sweet minty condition... then OK that's one thing... but if you pay (like my friend does)... then welcome to a good long list of $1000 repairs. Sure some are less but some could be $1500 so... not a terrible ballpark to tell you to expect 2-3 rounds of $1k bills.

[kperry316]

I kinda knew going on there would be some things if have to get right on the car but the interior is perfect, the exterior is a detail job from being perfect and the price was right. I'll be doing a lot of the work myself with the major repairs being done by a local shop since the closest BMW shop is over a hour away so this forum will be like gold to me. You guys have been awesome so far. Thank you.

[MIKYZZ4]

The excellent interior/exterior condition would tempt me to perform the repairs needed to make the vehicle roadworthy.
I believe you are 2 posts away from being able to post photos, which can give us a visual of what you have.

If you don't have much experience in vehicle repair, or more specifically with BMW repairs,
I suggest you obtain a Bentley repair manual for your specific BMW model.
Reading through it in your spare time, or before attempting a repair, will help to familiarize yourself with the tools and procedures necessary for the task. That, along with research and help from the forums, you should be ok. Happy Tinkering!!

[kperry316]

It's been awhile since I've had time to work on the car but here's an update:
The title was lost when I bought it but it came back today...SALVAGE TITLE! The previous owner bought it with a salvage title with 54,000 miles on it. He's racked up 120,000 miles on it since buying it but I'm just curious what suprises are in store. Any way, I have determined that it needs a brake job including rotors and my ccv valve came in last week so I'll be replacing that. What brakes do you guys recommend? What should I check out because of the salvage title?

[geargrinder]

LOL. Seems par for the course for this car.

Generally look underneath for signs of damage or bent or repaired frame-rails in the unibody... look at panel seams for odd lines that don't mate up or are too big or small...

That said, plenty of salvage cars are fine because the 'monetarily total' evaluation had nothing to do with it not being fixable, and in fact theres loads of guys who buy salvage cars and repair them. As long as the car isn't fundamentally bent, and the bodywork isn't done terribly (aka properly rustproofed, good paint, etc. ) it can be 'fine'. But there's also frightpig cars where you find say, something like behind the bumper cover all kinds of crushed stuff poorly repaired and the bumper mounts bodged back up poorly, and all of it has been rusting away ( <-- example from actual car I owned that didn't even have a salvage title... although it should have! that's a long story tho')

[kperry316]

First, let me say that this site has been a godsend for information. So I have replaced (myself) the DISA, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, ccv, brakes and rotors and the front lower control arms. I need to do the VANOS seals and yes I know I should have done it when I did the valve cover gasket but I'll get a second chance since now the valve cover is leaking oil. YEAH! So it's burning oil and money but it's fun to drive when everything is right and for what I paid for it (NOTHING) I can't complain at all. I'd love to know what you guys have done to your money pits to make it faster or more fun.

[effduration]

I can't complain at all. I'd love to know what you guys have done to your money pits to make it faster or more fun.

Love to see a pic when you are able.

Make it faster? Forgetaboutit - People have added turbos and SC's, but forget it . Focus on getting it in the best mechanical shape possible, and proactively change the cooling system.

How are your headlights? I'd be willing to bet your adjusters are broken.

More fun? - Not much. Added an aftermarket stereo. Short throw shifter and CDV delete if it is a 5-speed manual. I added a roof rack for utility on one of mine.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Roof rack for utility??? That’s what wagons are for!

[jclausen]

To minimize cash out lay I would just replace the bleed screw than see what happens because if the car is a dud for some reason then you haven't spend much money

[jicaino]

you can use a oil pan screw until you get the bleed screw IIRC. That would certainly cause the overheating while idling. Also, if the gas is old your DME may be taking almost all of the ignition advance opn some ranges, causing an apparent overheating scenario. Usea fuel stabilizer (LiquiMoly has a very fine gas stabilizer for this purpose, that I used not so long ago when I had to revive my rescued i6
Congrats on the car!

[effduration]

Roof rack for utility??? That’s what wagons are for!

a Thule or Yakima rack, with 3+ inches of bar extending beyond the feet and a couple of straps, turns the e39 sedan into a pickup truck. I have carried everything up there..

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

You should see what you can cram into a Touring.

[djb2]

You should see what you can cram into a Touring.

Not much. It has only a little more cargo space than an X5. I had to take *two* trips when I bought a washer-dryer set ;-).

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Washer/dryer.... Jeezuz, what are you? A peasant or somthing??? That’s what free delivery is for.... Know your limits.

[MIKYZZ4]

Not much. It has only a little more cargo space than an X5. I had to take *two* trips when I bought a washer-dryer set ;-).

I use a pick-up truck for that type of cargo, when free delivery is unavailable.