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Thread: 2001 540i. Broken ring on camshaft.

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    2001 540i. Broken ring on camshaft.

    Hello everyone. I've had problems with my M62TU for quite a while. It's really discouraging me. About 2 years ago, I decided to attack the Vanos rattle. Bought and replaced, guides and all chains. I did the Besian rebuild myself and felt pretty confident with re-timing. Engine would not start. I ended up putting it on a trailer and dropping at an indy. They re-timed an it ran for a year or so with no problems. Then I was driving along and it suddenly started to cough and spit at idle. Seemed ok above 1k rpm. Any time it idled, it shook, rattled, coughed and sputtered. I parked it because indy said I could do more damage if the timing was far enough off. I'm working on it again and wanted to understand the function of the rings on the end of the intake cams. The picture below is what my bank 1-4 intake cam looks like and that is where I'm getting error codes for advanced timing. (P0011) & (P1525). (P1341, P1349, P1347 & P1345). It seemed to run just fine after the indy timed it, the ring had that chip out of it. I have ordered 2 rebuilt vanos units from Dr. Vanos and plan to change them out anyway but don't want to go through all this again and have the cam be the problem.
    Thanks for the help in advance!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    The rings are one of the sealing mechanism that allow the oil to operate the vanos.
    How did that ring get so chipped up?

    After looking at the pic again is it the removable rings that are chipped or is it part of the cam that is chipped?
    Last edited by JimLev; 10-10-2018 at 07:50 PM.

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    Thanks for the reply! It is the actual cast/machined part of the cam. I’m guessing that isn’t good and I should replace? I remember breaking it but not how, it was a couple years ago.

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    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    Yes, you need a new cam.
    I gave Geargrinder a set of old tu heads with cams when I moved, maybe he will sell you one if he doesn't need them.

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    Would it be best to putin a matched set or doesn’t it really matter? By the way thanks alot for taking the time to help me out.

  6. #6
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    Doesn't really matter, one is fine.
    No problem helping, this is what the forum is for.

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    And you pretty much found one of the upmost authorities on these engines.... so listen to the man!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    JimLev's Avatar
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    Thanks Scottie, there are a bunch of us that know this engine.

    Kodiak, this will help you understand how the oil controls the vanos.

    Cam_Vanos Info.JPG

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    Wow,
    Thanks for the drawing. That does tell a bunch, pretty easy to see that a break in there would allow pressure to leak between the sides. Again, I really appreciate the responses. I'll get the cam and vanos units, retime and reply with the results. Thanks again...
    Kyle

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    Take a look at the inside of the distribution unit, that's the part that the end of the cam fits into. Make sure it's nice and smooth, not dug up. The early production tu engines didn't have a black Teflon coating on them which made them wear beyond acceptable limits. In late 99(?) they started coating them, yours should have a black coat on the inside and outside.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Take a look at the inside of the distribution unit, that's the part that the end of the cam fits into. Make sure it's nice and smooth, not dug up. The early production tu engines didn't have a black Teflon coating on them which made them wear beyond acceptable limits. In late 99(?) they started coating them, yours should have a black coat on the inside and outside.
    Do the later versions wear enough to warrant replacement during a VANOS rebuild?
    -Chris

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mxchris727 View Post
    Do the later versions wear enough to warrant replacement during a VANOS rebuild?
    The newer teflon coated ones should be fine. When I did my engine guides at 143K I pulled the distribution units off to look at them, they were fine.
    Last edited by JimLev; 10-17-2018 at 12:37 PM. Reason: corrected mileage

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by kodiak View Post
    It seemed to run just fine after the indy timed it, the ring had that chip out of it. I have ordered 2 rebuilt vanos units from Dr. Vanos and plan to change them out anyway but don't want to go through all this again and have the cam be the problem. Thanks for the help in advance!
    Holy Crackamole! How you DO that and then how you PUT A MOTOR BACK TOGETHER with that chip missing, I dunno!?

    I'm not really interested in vending parts at the moment but M62TU cams are all over the yards up here. I was at the JY yesterday and saw probably 3-4 cars with top end intact.

    There's a dead motor in an '01 somewhere else that I will be pulling parts off soon, maybe I could yank the cams too, but pulling the VANOS cams IS a bit of a PITA I think... not nearly as easy as stealing the cams from a simpler motor. If you really think you can't find 'em otherwise, PM me, but I'm not really lookin to get into the part-out business at the moment...
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
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    Hey fellas...
    Just wanted to thank everyone. I need to get it inspected but it is running great. Started up first crank. I was having a little trouble with a stall once it warmed up but after changing some vacuum lines and the MAF that seems to have been corrected. Geargrinder, I agree, it wasn't one of my most intelligent decisions. Not sure what was going through my head other than "uh-oh" and thinking a cam was over my head. Obviously, once I was in that far, a cam was just a few more bolts. Dumb... Now it's on to headlight adjusters, faulty gas gauge and a seat motor. Thanks again guys, you are an amazing resource!
    Best,
    Kyle

  15. #15
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    Thanks for the follow up. Good to hear it's running.
    Did you get a junkyard cam?

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    Kinda, bought it off ebay. Turns out it was local.

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