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Thread: Loud rattling while idle and random engine failures

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Oak Forest, Illinois
    Posts
    17
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 330i

    Loud rattling while idle and random engine failures

    My 2001 330i will have a loud rattling noise when idle, almost as if a belt is loose but drives fine and doesn’t have the noise when driving. However the car will randomly die out when I’m idle, then go maybe 5-10 mph. I’ve noticed it’s usually when I rerverse but not always. The engine will die, check engine light comes on along with the battery and oil light. I’ll start it back up and it’ll start and drive fine after but seems like something isn’t right. My battery is a bit old and I’ll have to play with the positive or negative sometimes to get it to start in the first place, any ideas? It’s got 131k miles and the codes I’m getting are 53,27,68, 140,126,62,124. The codes read: Idle speed actuator- open coil (53) idle speed actuator- closed coil (27) tank venting valve (68), leakage diagnosis pump (140) DMTL magnetic valve circuit (126) secondary air valve (62) actuator variable intake system -valve (124). Any info/suggestions on parts to buy to replace will help!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    915
    My Cars
    2003 328i
    Assuming the wiring is good and everything is plugged in I would replace the idle control valve and DISA valve.

    You should replace the battery and get the cables sorted out. Poor connections back there can cause other problems and in extreme cases it can toast the battery cables.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Oak Forest, Illinois
    Posts
    17
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 330i
    I was thinking about the ICV, should I also change the top and bottom hose for the air filter? I’m not familiar at all with the ICV.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    915
    My Cars
    2003 328i
    While you're in there, you probably should.

    The ICV is under the intake plenum. Access is much easier if you remove the DISA valve first. Then you can get to the boot clamps and everything else.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    431
    My Cars
    2001 330i and 2005 330i
    The rattle might be coming from the DISA valve (square-ish box on the intake rail). While idling, put a long screwdriver on the box and the other end in your ear. Does that tally with the rattle? I hate to suggest it but the noise might also be the timing chain running with broken guides. I just had a major problem with that.
    Johnny Murray

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Timaru, New Zealand
    Posts
    1,132
    My Cars
    Two Z3 Roadsters
    Have you read the error codes? With the CEL coming on there will be codes to help you.
    1999 2.8L Z3 Roadster,
    2000 3.0L Z3 Roadster,

    There is only one thing more pleasurable than working on a Z3, that's driving it top down on a fine day.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Peoria, AZ
    Posts
    7,696
    My Cars
    03 zhp, 97 e36m3, 04 zhp
    "My battery is a bit old and I’ll have to play with the positive or negative sometimes to get it to start in the first place" - address this first, low voltage supply will do weird things to your car. According to the codes you have multiple problems like other pointed out : DISA, Evap system, ICV and SAS

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Fort Lauderdale
    Posts
    106
    My Cars
    2003 BMW 330i
    If you have a camshaft mechanical error when you check your codes, for me the vanos was the problem.

    I had to remove the vanos and rebuild it using the besian kit.

    On top of that, remove each vanos solenoid and piston and clean the piston and cylinder so that the pistons move back and forth smoothly and freely.

    If you rebuild the vanos without checking the solenoid pistons, the issue will not be fixed. I made that mistake and had to take the vanos out a second time.

    When I did check the cylinders, the exhaust cylinder was so messed up that the piston was seized and I ruined it with needle nose vice grips to remove it. I had to use a dremel to resurface the cylinder and then replaced the piston with another one from junkyard.

    After doing that the cps mechanical error went away. If you do not have this error, then none of this applies to you. Also I used a Peake tool to check errors.
    Last edited by apathy11303; 11-23-2018 at 03:29 PM.

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