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Thread: E36 LSx AC Line Routing Pics

  1. #1
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    E36 LSx AC Line Routing Pics

    I'm tempted to try to retain the factory BMW line from the evaporator (firewall) to the drier but it runs very close to the header. Probably not the best idea.

    There's several threads on AC wiring but I have't found many pictures depicting how you guys routed your AC hoses/lines. I'm thinking the safest routing from the evaporator to the drier and the evaporator to the compressor is to go around the strut tower. But it's definitely not the most aesthetically pleasing option.

    Ideas? Thoughts? Experiences? Pictures?

  2. #2
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    I kept the BMW line routing and just replaced the compressor with a GM unit.
    A/C lines get very hot during normal operation so they are made to withstand high temps. That said, I would wrap it in some kind of heat shield and you should be fine.

    2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schitzo View Post
    I kept the BMW line routing and just replaced the compressor with a GM unit.
    A/C lines get very hot during normal operation so they are made to withstand high temps. That said, I would wrap it in some kind of heat shield and you should be fine.
    I can maybe modify and keep the OE line from the firewall to the drier but the OE line from the firewall to the compressor is pretty much a no go, especially with the way I have the heater valve mounted and the heater hoses routed.

    I'm going to have to tow the car to the hose fab shop because there's no way I can run back and forth and come up with a viable solution. The biggest hurdle is going to be routing and securing the lines to the back of the compressor. With the JTR motor mount, there's almost no space behind the compressor. The lines will have to be attached to the compressor before the compressor is installed.

    There is no option but for the lines to exit the compressor and immediately route forward. But this routing will make it very difficult or impossible to get to the bolts in place to secure the compressor to the bracket.

    Nothing is insurmountable. But this is going to require a lot of thought.

  4. #4
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    Knowing you already have the compressor and mount...might consider Ruly's route of a Dingo Sanden mini compressor and bracket. We are leaning toward that direction. Might provide another option.

    We are planning on using similar to OEM routing...our headers will require the tubes to kick up a bit due simply to space. Will plan to wrap accordingly as well...one hot and one cold, right?

    Of course, with the temps dropping finally...AC isn't the priority now for us either.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    Knowing you already have the compressor and mount...might consider Ruly's route of a Dingo Sanden mini compressor and bracket. We are leaning toward that direction. Might provide another option.

    We are planning on using similar to OEM routing...our headers will require the tubes to kick up a bit due simply to space. Will plan to wrap accordingly as well...one hot and one cold, right?

    Of course, with the temps dropping finally...AC isn't the priority now for us either.
    I'd like to try to use what I have. If it proves to be unworkable, I'll consider options.

    I've got the heater hoses installed where you currently don't, so real estate might have a little different perspective. Space gets used up quickly next to the headers.

  6. #6
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    Here are more pictures of mine, hope they help. One of them runs kinda close to the header, haven't had issue and blows cold in 120 AZ weather. I was originally going to wrap it but the guy that made my lines said it should be fine.... So far so good I guess.

    Originally I was going to route them out by the strut tower but didn't want to make even longer lines and wanted to keep the engine bay as clean as possible.ac1.jpgac2.jpgac3.jpgac4.jpgac5.jpg

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the pics, Ruly. Both you and Tim have no heater hoses, so you have a lot more space available in that area. It gets kind of tight when you're trying to package it all in the same area.

    I appreciate the pics. The more info the better.

    EDIT: And for $350, as Tim suggested, that SD7B10 mini-compressor is worthy of consideration. It really is tight packaging. Where the Dirty Dingo shows 10 5/8" from the center point of the balancer to the outside of the compressor pulley, I'm currently closer to 12.5" with the F-Body compressor.

    And Holley now has the 20-160, though they are quite proud of it at $537. At 11.25", it looks like it's not as tight to the block as the DD but probably adequate.




    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 10-09-2018 at 03:24 PM.

  8. #8
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    When it came time for me, I brought the car to Mark's Air in Tampa (813-988-1671) They made the proper hoses to mate the BMW stuff to my GM compressor, and charged the system. That was almost 12 yrs. ago. I cannot recommend them too highly, they are the best. (they're hotrodders too)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by htrdbmr View Post
    When it came time for me, I brought the car to Mark's Air in Tampa (813-988-1671) They made the proper hoses to mate the BMW stuff to my GM compressor, and charged the system. That was almost 12 yrs. ago. I cannot recommend them too highly, they are the best. (they're hotrodders too)
    Thanks. I didn't know about them. But I do know the owner of Auto Air Innovations, which isn't too far from Mark's Air. They're both a bit of a hike from me if towing the car.

    I had the hydroboost hoses made at Hose Makers Plus in Hudson. In fact, I just came from there. Tom does excellent work but it's still next to impossible to do this task well without the car being there.

    The biggest challenge with retaining the F-Body compressor is that the lines, or at a minimum, a line adapter, will have to be bolted to the compressor before the compressor is bolted to the bracket/engine. There is simply no room behind the compressor to attach the lines with the compressor in place. And with the compressor so tight to the frame rail, any added bulk makes fitting the compressor into the bracket more difficult (or impossible).

    It might be easier to go with the SD7 setup from either Dirty Dingo or Holley. It's a shame that the ports on the SD-7 are oriented as they are. The forward SD-7 port is for the line that needs to run aft to the firewall and the rear port is for the line that needs to run forward to the condenser. Again, not insurmountable. It just makes it neat packaging more of a challenge.

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