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Thread: P0011 code

  1. #26
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    Yeah, the exhaust camshaft bolts are often quite tight. I usually use a big breaker bar on those and have somebody counterhold the cams. You do not want to put all that pressure on the cam blocks or cam, that won't be pretty if something snaps off.
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  2. #27
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    What part of the cam do you have the wrench holding?
    The hex location for the wrench isn't in the front.

    Check the oil pump chain for slop too. The pump can be adjusted to reduce the slop.
    Last edited by JimLev; 10-14-2018 at 12:43 AM.

  3. #28
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    It’s forward on the exhaust cams, aft on the intake cams. I ordered a new oil pump chain so that will be replaced.

  4. #29
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    Kouks I like the cut of your jib, you'll fit right in here. Crankin' this bad boy out fast which is great... Aren't those G.A.S. tools nice?

    Strong advice is to 2-man the cam holding if at all possible - one man on the counterhold to keep the cam from damaging your pretty new cam block set. Hopefully you can grab yer boy to do the job.

    Did you get a Beisan seal and tool set yet? Or are you going to source pre-resealed VANOS hubs?
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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Kouks I like the cut of your jib, you'll fit right in here. Crankin' this bad boy out fast which is great... Aren't those G.A.S. tools nice?

    Strong advice is to 2-man the cam holding if at all possible - one man on the counterhold to keep the cam from damaging your pretty new cam block set. Hopefully you can grab yer boy to do the job.

    Did you get a Beisan seal and tool set yet? Or are you going to source pre-resealed VANOS hubs?
    Kouks doesn't mess around! I recommend the besian kit...

    http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm

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    Last edited by purplecty; 10-14-2018 at 10:35 AM.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by kouks View Post
    It’s forward on the exhaust cams, aft on the intake cams. I ordered a new oil pump chain so that will be replaced.
    From your pic it looked like the wrench is all the way forward on the intake cam, which is why I asked. IIRC it's between cyl 1 and 2 for the intake, right.
    I used a long 27mm wrench (Lowes?) that I was able to easily hold the cam while removing and also torqueing the cam bolts, but then I really didn't need to worry about damaging my cam blocks, they were all made of steel.

  7. #32
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    Ordered the Besian kit last week. Hopefully by the end of today everything will be off and I’ll be cleaning all the covers and the front of the engine while I wait for parts to show up.

    EDIT: Went to the mailbox and Besian delivered already. Maybe get started on that today.

    Valve covers are going to get powder coated or painted with VHT paint. I’d rather powder coat but my local guy last time said he won’t PC magnesium. However, the guys at the jet engine shop on base PCed my e38 covers 6 yrs ago and they still look new. That was a special favor so can’t go back. Used VHT on the e34 cover and after 2 years still looks good. However the M50 doesn’t run as hot as the M62.

    Didnt think of going to Lowes. Napa and Autozone didn’t carry something that big. Also need a 32 to take off the VANOS solenoids. Any answers on that cooling pipe removal?
    Last edited by kouks; 10-14-2018 at 12:12 PM.

    02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)

  8. #33
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    I did get it from Lowes, Kobalt 27mm. Think it was about $20, maybe less??
    You already have the upper timing covers off so you could use an adjustable crescent if you have one that will open that much or just use a pipe wrench. Make sure your on the hex as the walls of the tube part aren't that solid. They aren't on that tight so they should unscrew pretty easy.

    Find some other place to PC the covers. I've done a lot of them and never had any issues. Do the upper timing covers too, they are aluminum.
    Last edited by JimLev; 10-14-2018 at 12:36 PM.

  9. #34
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    I used super high temp paint and it worked out great and still looks like it did when I painted then. Just needs to be sanded down to bare metal and I didnt use priner either. I used flat silver...

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  10. #35
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    Kookie: there's lots of stuffs about PC the mag covers. They should be cleaned, high temp baked off to get impregnated oil out, then "rinse and repeat" a 2nd time. Then PC'ed. That's the key. Do that well and they come out great and last. Otherwise they don't last.

    BITD the idea that a domestic hardware store had giant sizes of Metric wrenches was ridiculous but now indeed you can find em at "blue or orange". Not the solenoid wrench tho unless you are willing to go combo wrench on it. The thinwall deep socket speciality socket is the ideal thing to have. I bought a AutoZone-or-something toyota-axle-or-something socket and ground it down thin enough to fit but using Jims proper tool was way nicer.

    Not sure I follow what the cooling line is you're asking about?
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  11. #36
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    Day 3, another 4 hours or so (total 14 hours so far)

    My son and I worked on it today. Everything is off the engine. The cam chain tensioners were crap, one of them snapped off the nipple that goes into the head, the other one the piston broke in half and the larger section jammed in the cylinder. I've cleaned these out before, but never seen them come apart like these. Getting new ones. Also removed the oil check valves and the o-rings were doing no good, I could easily pull them out and install with barely any finger pressure. Getting new ones of those too. EDIT: Apparently they just sell the O-rings so I'll just get those, save quite a bit.



    Starting the rebuild process. Doing the VANOS side by side.



    THE APPRENTICE. Didn't complain once doing the dirty work cleaning the covers. He decided he wants cherry red valve covers.



    geargringer
    : this is the hose connection, it is the trans cooler. This part of the pipe is metal, the other portion that goes into the coolant fill reservoir is rubber.



    Purple, did you get an e39?
    Last edited by kouks; 10-15-2018 at 01:13 AM.

    02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)

  12. #37
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    Believe that is a “pull” connection iirc. Pull back on the bottom sleeve and then pull it out. There is an oring that seals between the two elements. Careful though, that is a brittle thermostat. Validate with your replacement part.

    Here is a thread that may be of assistance. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...cement-(540iT)


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  13. #38
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    No but the e38 section has gotten a bit boring so I poke in here sometimes for some extra m62tu action... Im an e39 fan as well...

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  14. #39
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    Kookz - OK - TBH I'd somehow forgotten about that 3rd tube that goes to the "T" connection and doesn't use the standard snap-fit pipes... I think indeed that 3rd tube is just a press-fit, held in place by having the metal tube hard bolted to the motor. If you twist gently it should come loose.

    FWIW the whole plastic thermostat part (mis-translated as "voltage regulator" in the english catalog) can and does fail over time causing tranny overheating and then problems, so... another thing you might consider adding to the list of cooling system parts.
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  15. #40
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    ^So that's what the Voltage regulator is...ordered another one.

    Finished VANOS rebuild today (about 2 hours), and now at a standstill waiting for the big box of parts. Just cleaning stuff and doing busy work in between running family errands.

    Took valve covers in for powder coating. As I was discussing color with the guy, he wanted me to look at some new Avant Garde wheels he was coating for the Lamborghini dealer in Calabasas. It was a light cherry red with gold flake in it. So I said sure, do them in that color, since he'll have it available for that contract. So now my son can say his car has some Lambo heritage in it. Charge is $150 for both covers.

    02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)

  16. #41
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    That sounds like crazy bling powder. Not a bargain price for VC's but I know on custom powder jobs the guys often have a minimum order and there’s a bunch left over so you’re probably getting a deal On that at least..
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  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    That sounds like crazy bling powder. Not a bargain price for VC's but I know on custom powder jobs the guys often have a minimum order and there’s a bunch left over so you’re probably getting a deal On that at least..
    Welcome to Cali. He also quoted me $350 for 4 wheels, another guy wanted $120-150 each depending on color.

    All I got today was a box with the cam tensioners and the oil check valve o-rings. Installed in about 5 minutes. The Big Box gets here while I'm on another trip, so it will be until the weekend to do more.

    02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)

  18. #43
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    What shop are you using for powdercoating?
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  19. #44
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    That price isn't TOO terrible... although under a hundo is what I'm normally expecting... but it all depends on if they really do it right. AKA if the guy says "yeah its a little more because I"m really going to bake them 2 or 3 times before I put the powder on" then maybe being a bit pricey is OK... if its "Oh this is a BMW part so you must be able to afford it..." and they are just gonna blast & shoot it with no pre-bakes... then its a rip-off...

    - - - Updated - - -

    (BTW seeing "Lancaster CA" messes w/ my head cuz I just keep wanting to see it as "Lancaster PA"... can't get it in my old failing brain that you're in CA)
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  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1999 540i m View Post
    What shop are you using for powdercoating?
    California Coating, Lancaster, CA. 661-949-6005. Good guys and a real pro shop, they were doing stuff for the cops when I was there and he had a rack of Lambo wheels on a contract, along with all kinds of project all over the shop. The shop is however in an out of place part of town, but not scary, just out there.

    Geargrinder...their plan was to chemical strip, then bake for 4 hours to get the magnesium to gas out, then cool, coat, re bake, check for gas out, maybe re-do if necessary. I’ve used these guys before and their honest, which is what really counts.

    02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)

  21. #46
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    Chemical strip is good. Any idea what temp they will be baking them at?
    Typically the bake temp should be 50 deg higher than the temp to cure the powder.
    Ive been using 400 deg cure powder so I do the bake out after cleaning at 450F which burns off the oil fumes that out gas.
    I also do an acetone wash after the outgas just to be sure.

  22. #47
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    Day 4.5, Over the weekend busy with family stuff but was able to get about 5 hrs total to work on it. About up to 20 hrs on it so far.

    Got the timing set up. Went slow and methodical. Took several iterations, mainly because I was a bufoon on several things, but after about 4 do-overs, got it all together, spun it once and it all lined up perfect again. I'll hand turn it again in the AM and if all lines up perfect again, I'll start putting on the covers and putting humpty-dumpty back together again.

    Picking up the valve covers in the AM, hope they look as good as I hope.


    02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by kouks View Post
    Day 4.5, Over the weekend busy with family stuff but was able to get about 5 hrs total to work on it. About up to 20 hrs on it so far.

    Got the timing set up. Went slow and methodical. Took several iterations, mainly because I was a bufoon on several things, but after about 4 do-overs, got it all together, spun it once and it all lined up perfect again. I'll hand turn it again in the AM and if all lines up perfect again, I'll start putting on the covers and putting humpty-dumpty back together again.

    Picking up the valve covers in the AM, hope they look as good as I hope.

    Looking good! I am tuned in for the grin on start up when you hear how quiet the vanos will be...

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  24. #49
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    Day 5, about 6 hours today, but about 2 hours was re=reading the timing setup on the GAS and Besian instructions and spining the engine again to OT to check timing line-up. All looked good and started to put it back together. Also picked up the VCs with Lamborghini red powder coat. Turned out well, but several areas on the VCs were not perfect surface and there are some areas with gassing out issues. Shop says there's nothing they can do with magnesium products, and he did warn me prior to giving him the VCs.

    All seals, O-rings and gaskets are being replaced on this. Also replacing the rear oil separator.

    Tomorrow hopefully get it all back together, but I'll need to remember where all those air hoses went to.


    02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by kouks View Post
    Day 5, about 6 hours today, but about 2 hours was re=reading the timing setup on the GAS and Besian instructions and spining the engine again to OT to check timing line-up. All looked good and started to put it back together. Also picked up the VCs with Lamborghini red powder coat. Turned out well, but several areas on the VCs were not perfect surface and there are some areas with gassing out issues. Shop says there's nothing they can do with magnesium products, and he did warn me prior to giving him the VCs.

    All seals, O-rings and gaskets are being replaced on this. Also replacing the rear oil separator.

    Tomorrow hopefully get it all back together, but I'll need to remember where all those air hoses went to.

    Very red and very nice!

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