P0011 code

[JimLev]

Did you fog the cylinders and then check compression?
Spark and air should make it fire as long as the injectors haven’t flooded the engine.
Where are you spraying the starting fluid into the engine?
Can you remove the MAF/tube so your can spray a few short 1 sec squirts into the tube that connects to the throttle body?
It’s better if you have a helper to crank the engine so you can keep spraying starting fluid to keep it running.

[turquise1]

Did you fog the cylinders and then check compression?
Spark and air should make it fire as long as the injectors haven’t flooded the engine.
Where are you spraying the starting fluid into the engine?
Can you remove the MAF/tube so your can spray a few short 1 sec squirts into the tube that connects to the throttle body?
It’s better if you have a helper to crank the engine so you can keep spraying starting fluid to keep it running.

I am testing one of the cylinders which had decent compression before this incident. Btw, the incident was the fuel pressure regulator leak which first caused a fuel flood and hydrolock as I was trying to start. (I have installed a new FPR). Then I listened / read from the internet on how to start to car again, which I believe was a mistake because most people recommended WOT method which actually flooded the engine more (stepping on gas actually did not prevent from injectors to minimize gas on my engine but the opposite which had very interesting results such as flames out of intake and air filter box cover shooting up like a rocket).

At that point I had 0 psi on every cylinder. Leakdown test showed the leak was thru the cylinders.

Anyway, I tested a cylinder after fogging but I saw only 30 psi which is the number I get when I put engine oil in each sp hole (that number was the same when I first tried to start with WOT method etc). All cylinders had 180 psi or so before all this (on a 200k+ miles engine which I believe is a decent number)..

I am spraying the starting fluid into throttle from front. Right now it's open with no plastic hoses connected (no MAF sensor either). My wife was sitting in driver's seat and I would spray one spray and she would crank for 5 - 10 secs (nothing happens but crank). We did that 15 times until my battery booster died (maybe bring a running car to jump start next time?).

Am I missing something here? I read about many people trying too many times before the car starts. I am trying to think of different methods to somehow infuse oil between pistons and walls because otherwise the moment I drop oil in there it settles towards the bottom..

Thanks,

Ozzie

[JimLev]

If you hydrolocked it a while ago you could have other issues.
You need good compression or it’s not going to start.
Maybe spray more fogging oil into the spark plug holes, then check compression again.

[turquise1]

If you hydrolocked it a while ago you could have other issues.
You need good compression or it’s not going to start.
Maybe spray more fogging oil into the spark plug holes, then check compression again.

The car was not running during fuel hydrolock and I was quickly able to turn the crank by hand so I am not really worried about that.

One thing I am thinking of trying is to fill up the cylinder with oil until it covers everything and then pressurize using leakdown tester (at BDC the valves should be closed) the oil to see if it gets infused on every side.

Thanks for your help,

Ozzie

[JimLev]

Better make sure which stroke your on, if it’s not the compression stroke the exhaust valves will be open.

[turquise1]

Better make sure which stroke your on, if it’s not the compression stroke the exhaust valves will be open.

Quick update : I did a leak down test on the cylinders. 4 of them actually showed only 10% loss but when I quickly did a compression test I only see 10 psi. How would that be possible other than 2 different compression testers being inaccurate (Is there a good brand that I can depend on)?

There are some scuff marks inside cylinders but I can not tell how bad the damage is by just looking.

One other thing I noticed is most of the spark plugs had oil on them which I believe is because there was still some oil inside the cylinders when I was trying to start the car. That also made me believe those plugs did not fire because of oil presence. I will clean them out (or just use new ones) and eventually try to start the car again..

Thanks,

Ozzie

[turquise1]

Is it possible that the cylinder is losing compression because of a local scuff as it travels up or down? If so, what is the point of a leakdown test since it would be so inaccurate?

Just curious as I learn something everyday.

Thanks,

Ozzie

[JimLev]

Depends on how bad the score marks are, however a 10% leak down and only 10PSI compression points to you must have done something wrong.