P0011 code

[geargrinder]

You can loosen the trigger-wheel nut with the upper timing covers on, you just can't loosen the actual VANOS/gear fitting.

You can use the drill-bit-or-whatever trick to get it close. How "accurately" is the question.

The most accurate method to use the factory hole would prob be some kind of threaded rod about 2-3" long, with the end turned down to a rounded point that you screwed in there so it went in and straight back until it met the trigger wheel perfectly true. I bet that would be really extremely close, prob close enough to not throw a code? I know there's some wiggle room with cover position and casting drift or whatever but I bet it'd be close enough.

[kouks]

FIXED!

Did what GG recommended above. Used my Baum timing tools to make sure the cams were in place, and a strong LED flashlight down the lineup hole to make sure the trigger wheel was in the right place. I tried an allen fitting but there was too much play. Light does not bend and I was certain the lineup hole was in the correct position. After a day of driving, no more P0343 or other codes yet.

You cannot use a threaded rod to screw into the line up hole all the way to the trigger wheel. At the end of the threads there is a lip that will not allow to continue to screw through. So you have to choose a drill bit or something that has a narrower diameter than the threads. That allows play. I used an allen fitting to get close and then light to get rid of the play.

Thanks for all the help all along gents, it was a stupid mistake all along, but I learned plenty, including the value of a scope.

[purplecty]

Great job! Glad it's fixed! The first vanos timing job is always the trickiest...

[JimLev]

Great news Bill. Do you have any idea how the trigger wheel got so far off?
Regardless it was a great learning experience.
We are now referring all timing code problems to you to answer!

[kouks]

Great news Bill. Do you have any idea how the trigger wheel got so far off?

Yes, I screwed up when I put it back together. Instead of having the wheel tool in the vertical position, I mirrored the horizontal position of Bank 2, thus advancing the wheel about 120 deg.

Regardless it was a great learning experience.
We are now referring all timing code problems to you to answer!

A few years ago I rebuilt my 5hp24 trans in my garage, and by blind luck, it worked great. It was still running after 45,000 miles in the 740iL, that now has a cracked block. I became the go to guy for transmission questions on the e38 forum, even though I only worked on one trans ever.

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.

[geargrinder]

FIXED!

Did what GG recommended above. Used my Baum timing tools to make sure the cams were in place, and a strong LED flashlight down the lineup hole to make sure the trigger wheel was in the right place. I tried an allen fitting but there was too much play. Light does not bend and I was certain the lineup hole was in the correct position. After a day of driving, no more P0343 or other codes yet.

You cannot use a threaded rod to screw into the line up hole all the way to the trigger wheel. At the end of the threads there is a lip that will not allow to continue to screw through. So you have to choose a drill bit or something that has a narrower diameter than the threads. That allows play. I used an allen fitting to get close and then light to get rid of the play.

Thanks for all the help all along gents, it was a stupid mistake all along, but I learned plenty, including the value of a scope.

Bill that's great!

Thoughts:

1. One could still turn down a tool that would work. You'd have to make just a long pin on the backside. Might not even have to be made on a lathe, might be able to center drill a bolt then fit a "point rod" into it. Or, find a friend with a lathe who'll turn something down for you in about 5 minutes.

2. Light was clever idea! How about lasers. Frikkin sharks with lasers!?!? OK not sharks. But a little laser pointer with a threaded adapter.

[kouks]

Next project on this car, starting tomorrow, replace the entire sunroof cassette. Looking for a DIY, or maybe I'll do one if its not available. Nothing on YouTube of any value. TIS has all the info, and I already removed a working one from a JY dog, for $49.

EDIT: Un-regard my previous comment, found the write-up GG did in 2017

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ssette-removal

[JimLev]

I have one somewhere here with pics. I sent it to GG a few years ago. One of us will post it tomorrow.

[TheAngryBear]

Jim- if you mean this one, I should probably be shot if I don’t provide the link...



2001 750iL DD74441
Stock

RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

[JimLev]

Yes, thanks. That the one Brian set me years ago to edit and turn into a PDF for him.
I then sent it to GG and he did some more tweeting to it IIRC.

Not to change the subject, how's ExAlfa's and his car doing? Haven't spoke with him in a while, probably still shoveling snow.

[TheAngryBear]

Yes, thanks. That the one Brian set me years ago to edit and turn into a PDF for him.
I then sent it to GG and he did some more tweeting to it IIRC.

Not to change the subject, how's ExAlfa's and his car doing? Haven't spoke with him in a while, probably still shoveling snow.

I am not tracking any edits yet. GG if you made the changes happy to see them.

Last I talked to him was last year when I lost the 540. He is doing well and enjoying life. Definitely still shoveling...


2001 750iL DD74441
Stock

RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

[geargrinder]

I never edited that doc... sorry guys...

[AquilaBMW]

fixed!

Did what gg recommended above. Used my baum timing tools to make sure the cams were in place, and a strong led flashlight down the lineup hole to make sure the trigger wheel was in the right place. I tried an allen fitting but there was too much play. Light does not bend and i was certain the lineup hole was in the correct position. After a day of driving, no more p0343 or other codes yet.

You cannot use a threaded rod to screw into the line up hole all the way to the trigger wheel. At the end of the threads there is a lip that will not allow to continue to screw through. So you have to choose a drill bit or something that has a narrower diameter than the threads. That allows play. I used an allen fitting to get close and then light to get rid of the play.

Thanks for all the help all along gents, it was a stupid mistake all along, but i learned plenty, including the value of a scope.

bravo zulu buddy!

[Mannyf540]

Damn I still have this pending for my M62. Nice you got it sorted out !!

Hey fellas!! Hope everyone is doing well !!
Cheers!

[zarboz]

Hey just curious because I am facing similar issue did you just remove these bolts and use the holes from the bolts in order to do as GG describes?
Capture.jpg
Capture2.jpg

FIXED!

Did what GG recommended above. Used my Baum timing tools to make sure the cams were in place, and a strong LED flashlight down the lineup hole to make sure the trigger wheel was in the right place. I tried an allen fitting but there was too much play. Light does not bend and I was certain the lineup hole was in the correct position. After a day of driving, no more P0343 or other codes yet.

You cannot use a threaded rod to screw into the line up hole all the way to the trigger wheel. At the end of the threads there is a lip that will not allow to continue to screw through. So you have to choose a drill bit or something that has a narrower diameter than the threads. That allows play. I used an allen fitting to get close and then light to get rid of the play.

Thanks for all the help all along gents, it was a stupid mistake all along, but I learned plenty, including the value of a scope.

[JimLev]

Zarboz, yes those are the holes to use for alignment. For others reading this....I'm sure you know you'll need to put the engine back at TDC and install the cam lock blocks.

[ur1man]

FIXED!

Did what GG recommended above. Used my Baum timing tools to make sure the cams were in place, and a strong LED flashlight down the lineup hole to make sure the trigger wheel was in the right place. I tried an allen fitting but there was too much play. Light does not bend and I was certain the lineup hole was in the correct position. After a day of driving, no more P0343 or other codes yet.

You cannot use a threaded rod to screw into the line up hole all the way to the trigger wheel. At the end of the threads there is a lip that will not allow to continue to screw through. So you have to choose a drill bit or something that has a narrower diameter than the threads. That allows play. I used an allen fitting to get close and then light to get rid of the play.

Thanks for all the help all along gents, it was a stupid mistake all along, but I learned plenty, including the value of a scope.

Thanks a lot for taking time to diagnose and fix this issue.
Reading this thread was like going back in time with my unsuccessful attempt to correct this issue. I almost quit this car but now I have hope.
(Same exact issue--hoping to get same fix results)

[turquise1]

I have been trying to figure something similar out on my X5 4.4 01 for a while (I had P0343 and P0348). Finally after reading this thread, I made the adjustments for each wheel thru the holes and the errors are gone. Now it's time to try to start a bore washed engine with minimal compression..

Thanks guys,

Ozzie

[JimLev]

Spray some fogging oil into each cylinder, then crank it over.
Spray a little bit more in, put the plugs in and you should have compression.

[turquise1]

Spray some fogging oil into each cylinder, then crank it over.
Spray a little bit more in, put the plugs in and you should have compression.

Thank you for your quick response. Last time I put some regular engine oil and oiled all the cylinders and after putting the plugs in and trying to start (using starting fluid to avoid another fuel wash) there was a lot of scary noises and popping and I backed away. Is that normal, should I keep going?

I will probably try to start again this week (if all that noise is normal)

Cheers,

Ozzie

[JimLev]

I don’t know how much starter fluid you used, you only need a few short sprays to get it started.
How much oil did you put into the cylinders. I’m not a fan of doing that as the pistons are all at an angle so the oil goes to the lower top side of the pistons.
Fogging oil will do a much better job of coating all of the cylinder walls.

[turquise1]

I don’t know how much starter fluid you used, you only need a few short sprays to get it started.
How much oil did you put into the cylinders. I’m not a fan of doing that as the pistons are all at an angle so the oil goes to the lower top side of the pistons.
Fogging oil will do a much better job of coating all of the cylinder walls.

Couple of short sprays was what I did. I thought of the angle of the pistons would not let me oil the entire cylinder (which is what I saw with the borescope anyway) and put extra oil and let it freely splash out for a couple of times not to cause hydro lock. Even with that the compression was very low. Is there way to spray the fogging oil in there to get a better (better coverage of the walls) result? I am looking at some sort of sprayer to spray inside using a compressor perhaps?

Thanks,

Ozzie

[JimLev]

To get better coverage on the cylinder walls have the piston at BDC.
The can of fogging oil I have has a long plastic tube that you stick down in the plug hole.
There will be a number of cylinder down at the same time so it shouldn’t take too long to do them all.

[turquise1]

To get better coverage on the cylinder walls have the piston at BDC.
The can of fogging oil I have has a long plastic tube that you stick down in the plug hole.
There will be a number of cylinder down at the same time so it shouldn’t take too long to do them all.

First attempt unsuccessful. Cranked at least 15 times (5 secs each with a min break to cool down the starter) and no start. I will once again check to see if there is spark. Other than that I guess the only thing I can do is to keep trying. I am really hoping the rings are not worn badly but even then it should make some sort of start (even unhealthy), I think..

Thanks,

Ozzie

[turquise1]

First attempt unsuccessful. Cranked at least 15 times (5 secs each with a min break to cool down the starter) and no start. I will once again check to see if there is spark. Other than that I guess the only thing I can do is to keep trying. I am really hoping the rings are not worn badly but even then it should make some sort of start (even unhealthy), I think..

Thanks,

Ozzie

Tested for spark and verified there is spark as well..

Thanks,

Ozzie