Yeah for sure the cam end slots are destroyed, thats his issue...
I also replied to PM...
Yep - the solenoids are $$$ new be prepared for that, and, they DON'T tend to fail, so I'd lean towards running the used ones but leave it to you. As long as you don't screw one up like I did they seem to last forever.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
SUCCESS!!
It sure was that broken camshaft oil seal. Replaced both VANOS solenoids also with used ones from the JY car. Runs nice and smooth. My son has a smile back on his face.
I do have one issue though.
Shortly after running it I got a P0343 code, Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS) Bank 1.
Checked all connections and no problems. Both CPS are new.
Replaced both CPS with the old ones, same P0343
Swapped Bank 1 and 2, same P0343
Runs fine for now, takes about 6-7 turns to start rather than the usual 2-3 turns, but told my boy keep driving it until I found the wiring problem. Checked fuses in glovebox and all seemed good.
02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)
Congrats!
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...112&styleid=50
I know this is for a 750 e38 but Post 9 and 10 maybe?
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^Wow, that's quite a solution. I'll look into it. Probably will open up the electrical box on Bank 1 to check wiring and continuity.
02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)
Check the voltage at the connector, I don't have the pinout handy (home tomorrow if nobody chimes in) +12 volts, ground, and a signal wire. Sounds like one wire is broken maybe.
12 volts come from the fuses in the back of the DME box.
I've gotten a code similar to that when the timing wheel was so far off that it wasn't registering at all, just food for thought.
1995 525i 5-speed - Thread
I'm pretty sure the wheel-off code is different (something about position) than the electrical code. This is a situation where having true BMW codes vs Peepee codes can be very crucial to understanding what is really happening there.
Kouks glad its back up and running well!
Ay: That link about the magnetized bolt problem is CRAZY. Never heard of that but it makes some sense.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Its so odd that anytime someone says they've replaced their cam sensors with new oem sensors and the issue is still on the one side it triggers me to thing about the magnetized bolt issue. This has been added to my troubleshooting muscle memory. Without evidence of it happening and working for someone else, you'd probably think I was nuts...
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Wiring at connector info.
+12 volts comes from F1 in the back of DME box, goes to pin 1 on DME connector, red/blue wire inside the wire box.
Pin 2 is the signal wire back to the DME, yellow wire inside wire box.
Pin 3 is the ground, brown wire inside wire box.
A magnetized bolt?? It's possible but not likely, the small bolt is far enough away from the tip of the sensor that it shouldn't effect it.
The tip of the cam sensor is normally slightly magnetized, it has to be to function.
OK, I'm going out on a limb here, thinking outside the box.
Check the coil connectors and the ground wire on bank 1.
Maybe start with cylinder 3 first.
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I’m on a trip now so I’ll have to catch up with all your suggestions after turkey day gents. I did think of the timing wheel at first, but I’m certain I torqued it correctly and it was in the correct position, and the fact that it runs smooth tells me it’s not that. The P0343 code is a high code, meaning an open circuit, and with multiple CPS installed and still getting the same code the problem is in wiring at the plug or beyond. There was one time where I was getting frustrated and the CPS plug on Bank 1 was not letting go so I may have damaged something internal to the Bank 1 elec box, so that’s my first plan of action.
02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)
Checked both CPS plugs, both red/blue leads were 12 volt, both yellow leads were 12 volt, and both grounds had continuity, so there is no open circuit at the plugs. Also opened up bank 1 e box and no damage to wires. Still p0343
Changed CPS bolt to one from a spare fan clutch, still p0343
Checked ground wires at the plugs in bank 1, still p0343
Noticed MAF wire was not routed through clip on intake to stay away from engine, so clipped that just in case it was affecting the magnetic CPS, but still p0343
Since there is no open circuit on either side at the plugs, and multiple CPSs were used on bank 1 and now bank 2, I’m beginning to think this is a secondary code caused by something else.
Last edited by kouks; 11-20-2018 at 02:38 AM.
No oil or coolant on the DME connector?
While coolant-on-connector is an old and well known problem, I've now seen a number of "oil pooled connector" DME's, and heard of 2-3 more, and I suspect that theres a new long-term failure mode that is emerging with age here... At first I assumed that it was the oil level sensor but for a couple reasons I think thats far less likely than the oil pressure switch which has oil at pressure, and, very little vertical to overcome, and, fewer breaks in the harness sheathing making for a better ability to force oil upstream to the connector.
- - - Updated - - -
Like the coolant problem, that causes semi-random errors because the contamination can affect any of the nearby pins. The connector that is concerned there is the middle 'sensor input' connector. While the coolant thing is most likely to rot out its own thermostat & temp sensor related pins first, the oil contam seems less specific... so... could take out a cam sensor signal easily I suspect.
If its oil, and hasn't been happening so long that the inside of the DME is contam'd, then contact-cleaning the connector and pins should result in a short-term fix that works pretty well for a limited period, at least proving the diagnosis...
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Could this be an alignment of the upper timing cover being off causing incorrect camshaft reading at the sensor?
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...covers/AnfTlNf
Did you follow this installation procedure that says:
Note:
The timing case cover is pressed down onto level of cylinder head by cylinder head cover
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Last edited by purplecty; 11-20-2018 at 08:19 AM.
Yeah, I've heard shops say that they thought that the UTC being slightly misaligned causes these problems.
I'm a bit skeptical unless the cover is really way off... I mean sure its worth quick checking, but I wouldn't be super optimistic about that one unless it really visibly isn't flat w/ the head.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Only reason i mention it, is because the covers have been off a bunch of times and this is a newer error code I believe?
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The other thing A is that if you have a proper scanner the electrical codes are distinctly different than the position codes. I suspect a lot of people end up chasing their tail one way or the other because of that! Either chasing electrical when it’s position or chasing position when it’s electrical.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Did you check what I wrote in post 110?
Here's what I did today
1. Measured Ohm resistance on both old and new CPS between terminals 2 and 3. Old ones were both at 0 ohms, so I tried between any other terminals and still 0 Ohm. Then I measured the new CPS and resistance between terminal 2 and 3 was 1160 and 1120, as they should be. Installed the new CPS. Started and drove it for about 5 minutes, including in Sport mode and mashing down on the pedal. No codes. Shut it down in the driveway, restarted, and then the P0343 came back. Not sure why the old CPS show 0 ohm, if both were failed then the engine would not have run as good as it did for months. Currently the engine runs fine, you can feel a slight wobble at idle and during the initial part of any harder acceleration. At cruise it runs very smooth.
2. When the CPS were removed I shot photos inside the CPS holes to get the position of the timing wheels. Using GAS and Besian photos of the timing wheels and front covers, I did some geometry and then used the solution on photos of the timing wheel. Comparing my shots of the CPS holes, with the engine turned over at several positions, and the geometry solution on a timing wheel, its evident both timing wheels are in the appropriate place and are not loose or out of position. The shots were not accurate enough to measure exact timing angle, but based on the photos of the timing wheel installed on the VANOS and the geometry, they appeared to be in the correct locations.
3. Purple: the cover appears to be in proper position, and yes, I'm getting really good at removing and replacing them.
4. Jim: Checked all coil connectors and ground both banks.
Still looking for a solution, and I need to get INPA to talk to the DME.
02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)
^Will not talk to DME. Talks to other modules just fine. Maybe the DME is the problem. I feel like I’m chasing my tail on this DIY. Why would electronics do this when they were running perfectly fine before. I opened up the e-box and it was evident no one had been in there, maybe since manufacture.
The only thing I moved electronically was the coil e boxes on top of the engine. Continuity for the CPS were good.
02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)
Leverage is a great thing, along with penetrating oil
Your plugged into the OBD port under the dash.
The connector gets 12 volts at pin 16 from F25.
The data is sent over pin 7 directly to the DME. This should be the only data wire from the OBD connector to the DME.
The other two pins, 4 & 5 go to ground.
Very strange you can connect to other modules but not talk directly to the DME.
Maybe try letting the car go to sleep, disconnect the battery for 10-15 min. Turn key to POS 2 for a few sec then back to off. Reconnect battery and see what's what.
Purplecty suggestion would also be a good thing to try.
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