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Thread: 90 535i voltage regulator/ alternator question - solved

  1. #26
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    Visual inspections although necessary aren't really sufficient. You need to be doing voltage drop tests on the wiring to see where your problem is.
    demet

  2. #27
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    Im still working on the car but here are the update... I checked the chassis ground for the battery, no corrosion and it is firmly in place.
    Next I turned the car on,
    tested b+ at alternator - 12 to 13v at idle,
    tested the starter where the alternator and battery wire are on 1 post - 12 to 13v,
    tested the battery cable where you would jump start the car under the hood - 12 to 13v..

    I changed out the 80amp fusible link that is not riveted in since i have 2 new ones.. tested at 10v.

    So now im going to dig around and look for the 50amp fusible link and test that, Im hoping that is the cause, because if not then im stumped.

    The OBC test is vacillating between 10.4 and 11.3v.
    Last edited by Neel; 10-21-2018 at 10:56 AM.
    Herr, wirf Hirn vom Himmel! ... oder Steine, Hauptsache er trifft.

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  3. #28
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    Looks like a BIG voltage drop between your fusible links and your jump start terminal. Corroded wiring in between both I bet. Overlay a new set of wires, doesn't have to be very thick or follow the existing wire through the carpet and the firewall feed it out an open window onto the engine bay, and retest for voltage at the fusible link. You should have your answer.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Shogun, are both fusible links 80A ?
    Last edited by alang1990; 10-21-2018 at 11:04 AM.

  4. #29
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    From what ive read the first fusible link is 80amp, 2nd one that heat shrunk wrapped is 50amp.
    Herr, wirf Hirn vom Himmel! ... oder Steine, Hauptsache er trifft.

    88 Alpineweiss / black E30 M3 -Project.
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  5. #30
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    Looks like a BIG voltage drop between your fusible links and your jump start terminal. Corroded wiring in between both I bet. Overlay a new set of wires, doesn't have to be very thick or follow the existing wire through the carpet and the firewall, feed it out an open window onto the engine bay, and retest for voltage at the fusible link. You should have your answer.

  6. #31
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    Attach53984_20181021_112425 (1).jpg This is the only real corrosion im able to find at this time.

    I've also disconnected anything that was added on just now and the readings went up slightly. I have an electric fan that is temp sensor controlled that was attatched to the terminal block in the pic. The car is still only showing 12v at idle. Before anyone asks there is Nothing else that is added on. I haven't had a sub/amp attatched in quite some time. I do apologize for not mentioning that earlier.
    Last edited by Neel; 10-21-2018 at 11:33 AM.
    Herr, wirf Hirn vom Himmel! ... oder Steine, Hauptsache er trifft.

    88 Alpineweiss / black E30 M3 -Project.
    Brilliantrot / black US SPEC 3/90 prod e34 M30b35 535i 5spd - Modded.
    98.5 Tiag Silber /black e36 m3 - Modded.
    99.5 Estoril Blau /dove e36 m3 - Modded.
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  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by alang1990 View Post
    Looks like a BIG voltage drop between your fusible links and your jump start terminal. Corroded wiring in between both I bet. Overlay a new set of wires, doesn't have to be very thick or follow the existing wire through the carpet and the firewall, feed it out an open window onto the engine bay, and retest for voltage at the fusible link. You should have your answer.
    This exercise will demonstrate what? That the new wire doesn't have a voltage drop.
    jeez, Roberto, give it up already

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    This exercise will demonstrate what? That the new wire doesn't have a voltage drop.
    jeez, Roberto, give it up already
    Yes, and conversely, that the old wire does. I thought that was obvious, Roberto.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neel View Post
    Attach53984_20181021_112425 (1).jpg This is the only real corrosion im able to find at this time.
    That thing is nasty. I think it can be taken apart and cleaned or the bolts and nuts replaced.
    demet

  10. #35
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    And where are you located? Update your profile with your location.
    demet

  11. #36
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    Yes that is nasty especially on closeup. Remove and try sanding the nuts and terminals and whatever else you can get to there with sandpaper. This will work if its not as bad as it looks. Try that before overlaying wires.

  12. #37
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    Replaced hardware with stainless steel hardware the plate in the block is still a little rusty but i scraped it the best i could.. instant results, car is up and going and at 13v at idle. Why I immediately did not do that was a couple of techs that looked at it said while its not helpful, it shouldn't cause that much of a voltage drop. Well, it seems to have solved my issues for the time being, Im still going to replace the 50amp fusible link, but this is a step in the right direction.
    Herr, wirf Hirn vom Himmel! ... oder Steine, Hauptsache er trifft.

    88 Alpineweiss / black E30 M3 -Project.
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  13. #38
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    Glad it's fixed without any gymnastics.
    That terminal block is usually squeaky clean, even on the rust belt cars I am cursed with. I wonder if your car has been "wet". Anyway, a bit of acidic wheel cleaner ought to spiff up the terminal block. A bit of spray grease or battery terminal protectant after is probably a good idea too.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neel View Post
    Why I immediately did not do that was a couple of techs that looked at it said while its not helpful, it shouldn't cause that much of a voltage drop.
    Yeah right. Good thing you came here for a second opinion. Or was that a third opinion?
    demet

  15. #40
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    Came here for a 2nd opinion. While those guys may be awesome at acura's.. Im going to not ask regarding my car anymore. However, its still only charging at 13.xx at idle, or while running. So the hunt goes on but I am alot more comfortable with the car now that it is above 11v. I even replaced all of the fuses about a week ago just as a precaution. Looks like I will be ordering a new block where the battery and starter wires go. Going to try and pickup an 50amp fuse block tomorrow.
    Herr, wirf Hirn vom Himmel! ... oder Steine, Hauptsache er trifft.

    88 Alpineweiss / black E30 M3 -Project.
    Brilliantrot / black US SPEC 3/90 prod e34 M30b35 535i 5spd - Modded.
    98.5 Tiag Silber /black e36 m3 - Modded.
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  16. #41
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    If it's high 13's at idle then you're fine. If it's low 13's then you need to do more work. What brand voltage regulator did you use? Hella is a good brand that produces good voltages. And it's cheap too.
    demet

  17. #42
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    That is fine in 13s, case solved, I added solved in the thread title. Corrosion, deposits and oxidized contacts is one of the biggest problems on our old cars. On occasion, the damage may be so extensive that the device cannot be salvaged because the oxidation has penetrated plating or other surfaces to corrode much more deeply. Otherwise, you can use various brushes or cleaners, or both, to clean and restore oxidized contacts.

    BMW even has a TI: Stabilant 22A Electrical Contact Enhancer Model: All BMW
    Complaint: Connectors which carry low current are more likely to form deposits which affect the resistance of the circuit through the plug connector. Depending upon the particular circuit these deposits can cause malfunctions and consequently activate warning lamps and check control indicators.
    Remedy: Part replacement can temporarily stop the problem.
    If the connector is the problem then without disconnecting the connector measure the resistance of the circuit running through the connector to make sure the connector has a high resistance. A good resistor will have close to 0 ohms resistance. Visually examine the male and female terminals in the connector housing by removing them. Look at the integrity of the wire crimps, and in some male terminals the integrity of the weld of the male pin to the terminal. Then reinstall. With a zero residue electrical contact cleaner liberally spray the male and female connectors, and allow the air to dry. Apply Stabilant 22A to both male and female terminals so they are saturated, and reconnect the connectors while they are still wet. When the Stabilant 22A dries it will leave a thin coating of polymer film which is conductive between mating surfaces, and is non-conductive between adjacent pins. It can also prevent the formation of more harmful deposits.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by demetk View Post
    If it's high 13's at idle then you're fine. If it's low 13's then you need to do more work. What brand voltage regulator did you use? Hella is a good brand that produces good voltages. And it's cheap too.
    I purchased the one you linked, the hella one. Its low 13's - 13.5 at idle, and stays consistent even when I'm driving. I should be able to replace the 50a link tomorrow, if i can find the block at an audio store... Here I thought the car was just getting pissed at me because I bought another e36 m3 lmao. I'm still going out to the car and turning it on in disbelief that it was just something that was so simple and over looked. I could have saved so much time and frustration, oh well. The car now has all new fuses, new fusible link, new ignition coil, new starter, tested good working alternator, new belts sans AC belt because its winter and i said the hell with it. I have developed a mystery oil leak but im okay with it, it means i have to step up the time-table on rebuilding the motor i have torn apart in the basement, and try to find some funding for ITB's and a tune, megasquirt is the low end of what i want to go with.
    Herr, wirf Hirn vom Himmel! ... oder Steine, Hauptsache er trifft.

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  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neel View Post
    Here I thought the car was just getting pissed at me because I bought another e36 m3 lmao.
    Never let a car know you are interested in another.
    demet

  20. #45
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    If the terminal block not the alternator, and if the alternator is doing :

    Quote Originally Posted by Neel View Post
    I purchased the one you linked, the hella one. Its low 13's - 13.5 at idle, and stays consistent even when I'm driving..
    ..then how was this possible earlier before the terminal block repair :

    Quote Originally Posted by Neel View Post
    Im still working on the car but here are the update... I checked the chassis ground for the battery, no corrosion and it is firmly in place.
    Next I turned the car on,
    tested b+ at alternator - 12 to 13v at idl.

  21. #46
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    So the chassis ground for the battery which is by the back seat, there was no corrosion there at all.
    Herr, wirf Hirn vom Himmel! ... oder Steine, Hauptsache er trifft.

    88 Alpineweiss / black E30 M3 -Project.
    Brilliantrot / black US SPEC 3/90 prod e34 M30b35 535i 5spd - Modded.
    98.5 Tiag Silber /black e36 m3 - Modded.
    99.5 Estoril Blau /dove e36 m3 - Modded.
    07 Crimsonrot /black E83 X3 6spd - Stock..

  22. #47
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    No I meant how come the direct alternator check showed 12-13v before the repair, and now, after fixing the terminal block, it shows only 13-13.5v ?

  23. #48
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    Initially the alt read 13.7 to 13.5 (on page 1).. on this page i wrote it would go from 12 to 13... after reading your last comment i felt it would be foolish if i did not not at least go test the B+ on the alt one more time even though it is now working correctly (the obc is showing 13.5 to 13.7, and I am good with that). I just did a test across all points of testing and it is consistent at mid 13s. So it really does seem everything is working as it should.

    Thank you and everyone else for their help.
    Herr, wirf Hirn vom Himmel! ... oder Steine, Hauptsache er trifft.

    88 Alpineweiss / black E30 M3 -Project.
    Brilliantrot / black US SPEC 3/90 prod e34 M30b35 535i 5spd - Modded.
    98.5 Tiag Silber /black e36 m3 - Modded.
    99.5 Estoril Blau /dove e36 m3 - Modded.
    07 Crimsonrot /black E83 X3 6spd - Stock..

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neel View Post
    Initially the alt read 13.7 to 13.5 (on page 1).. on this page i wrote it would go from 12 to 13...

    Wrong reported observations greatly complicate swift and correct diagnosis, usually. Fortunately it was not the case here for you.

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by alang1990 View Post
    Wrong reported observations greatly complicate swift and correct diagnosis, usually. Fortunately it was not the case here for you.
    Almost as much as your jibberish

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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