Hi guys,
I need some advice on what turbo to run on my s50.
Goals: Dont plan on building the motor ever and will mainly be used for Weekend/DD use. Would love to run a track day but trying to avoid running a scavenger pump... HP Goals are 500whp Max.
Car was running on a t3 gt35 .63 A/R JB knock off which requires a rebuild now so looking to change it up. I was running 12psi and top end would choke out due to the small housing. It lacked that "throw you in the back of the seat" feel.
I currently have a t4 gt4088 which I suspect is a JB sitting around ready to go but I am thinking its going to be lag city.
So my question is run the gt40 or find another turbo which will fit the bill?
At this point, I cannot afford a BB so itll have to be a JB turbo unless I can find a buyer for my gt40.
Turbos under consideration:
6262
6266
Borg Warner ( I have no clue which one will even fit on a SPA Manifold. SX2xx which most likely fit but im thinking itll be a bit too small)
Current Specs:
Stock block with Cutring
Megasquirt (need to find a tuner around Chicago if possible)
60lb Injectors on 93 pump. ( Might consider E85 once everything is dialed in properly)
FX Stage 4 clutch kit
3inch full exhaust
Old school HKS 40mm wastegate
Tial BOV on 3 inch aluminum cold side
2.5 steel hotside with a 90 degree welded elbow on the turbo
3 inch inlet piping sitting by the headlight ( which filter should I go with?)
SPA T3 Manifold Installed but have a SPA t4 Manifold to swap if necessary.
AEM Wideband and AEM UEGO for boost controller
Status:
Oil pan is off because I hated my AN bung so I decided to cut it off and weld a 45 degree tube as it seems to be a much better flow for drainage.
S2k is long gone and replaced with a stock 99 Mcoupe
Thanks for the Input!
WhatsApp Image 2018-10-07 at 4.39.18 PM.jpeg1390678180947.jpg
Gt40s aren’t lag city.
I’d run a stock ecu.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
I’d rather have a 6262 than a GT4088 for 500 rwhp.
I have a gtx35r 4" inlet t3 with .82 ar knock off I bought with zero miles cause I thought I had blown my gt35r due to my car smoking..It still smoked with the new knock off so I removed the engine and did a total rebuilt.. I also have a fx stage 4 clutch kit including a new dual mass flywheel with only 10 miles.. honestly...those clutches aren't for me so I took it off and bought a southbend...I'll let you have it for cheap if you're interested..
Last edited by m3boost; 10-07-2018 at 11:53 PM.
96 M3, GT4094R, Arrow Rods, CP Pistons, Elring HG, cutring 87mm, 10 mm ARP studs,MS3pro, EMC Intercooler, n54 6 speed with Motiv twin disk, ZT-2 wideband, Zionsville Radiator, X-brace, H&R springs with bilstien shocks, QTP electronic cutout, Line Locks, stock exhaust 455rwtq, 453rwhp at 14 psi 91 octane.......684rwtq, 681rwhp at 24 psi running flex fuel E60 at time of dyno tune.
Would the s257sxe be at its limits at 500whp?
PMed.. I was trying to stay away from the knock offs since my previous one only lasted a year before having oil pool up at the inlet and having slight shaft play.
- - - Updated - - -
why the 6262 compared to the 6266? I know it should come on faster but am I limiting my top end or is the difference marginal?
You have to decide whether you want the most power and torque under the dyno curve or whether you want the most top end. If a 6262 and GT4088 are both making 500 rwhp, which has more horsepower?
One of Butters’ customers trapped in the high 10s at just over 135 with. 0.63 T3 JB 6262 on an S52.
Since I do plan to DD I would def want it under the curve.
So now it comes down to the 6262 and the s257sxe.
What size housing would be appropriate for the s257sxe?
For the 6262, would the .63 housing be to restrictive? The customer def has me thinking otherwise.
Also does anyone have dyno graphs that I can view? I cant seem to find alot of data for the s257sxe using a SPA.
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=399047
Based on the data provided on the r3v site I created the list below of the turbos I was interested in.
Turbo CmpInd CmpExd TrbInd TrbExd Flow CHRA Bearings Mounting
BWS257SXE 57.15 76.20 70.00 61.00 65.0 Journal Bearing
PTE 6262 62.23 81.99 71.00 61.90 70.5 Either
GT 3582R 61.40 82.00 68.00 62.20 60.0 Journal Both
GT 4088R 63.50 88.00 77.00 70.40 67.5 Journal Both
PTE 6266 62.00 81.99 74.17 66.00 73.5 Either Rotated
PTE 5862 58.00 76.20 71.00 61.90 64.0 Either Rotated
FPHTA3582R 62.00 82.00 68.00 62.20 68.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
Last edited by abq; 10-09-2018 at 12:06 PM.
6262 is your best bet to reach your goal safely. The S257 has a 5mm smaller compressor that takes more boost and is less efficient at that power level. T3 .63 is ok but the .82 will pull harder up top. The 6266 is more for someone looking to run 600 to 800. Not 500whp max. I'd choose that over the 257 too with the .63 hot side. Or just use the GT35 and use the .82 turbine. Garrett offers it for a couple hundred bucks (cheaper than a whole new setup).
Anyone know what studs to use for my SPA t4 Manifold? The turbo flange studs and nuts.
I still need to measure overall length I need for the studs but here are the ones I am looking at:
https://www.mcmaster.com/93275a039
https://www.mcmaster.com/98863a360
This one is full SS and pricey so is SS really worth it over the first one?
I was suggested to get the nordlock washers as well:
https://www.mcmaster.com/nord-lock-washers
Or skip the nordlock and get this:
https://www.mcmaster.com/92773a103
You need to be really honest with yourself and your goals. If you really only want 500whp, a gt40 would be a retarded choice.
The more I look at it and research the more I think its a Ball bearing. The Turbo has been sitting dry for a while, when spun I get 4 or 5 revolutions which was the reason for me to doubt its ball bearing nature. However, after more research it seems as if the Journal bearing Gt40s do not come water cooled but mine is water cooled so leads me to believe it is BB.
You are completely correct. I say 500 daily duty with the hopes of turning it up in the future with and without e85. Assuming I can keep the motor together for a good while.
If you intend on keeping the stock block, you really can't "turn it up" past 500ish whp. It's well known 500whp is safe, past it is a matter of when and not if it goes. With that being said, my stock bottom end is holding 620whp so Idk lol.
Lol yea 500 is def the safe spot but I figured maybe a gt40 will save my rods for slightly more power. I mean the intent is to stay stock block but if the opportunity does arise for a built motor than why the hell not. I do have a spare m50 that I was looking to unload but it can be kept.
e85 should give me some more headroom to "turn it up". Regardless anything above 500 is going to be used rarely.
Guys are all blowing this out of proportion. Gt40bb at 18psi is going to be a great turbo. Plus it’s free.
I’d rather have a gt40 versus a gt35. To each his own.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
After speaking with a few of you who run bigger turbos I am thinking the same. Even if the turbo lags a bit I should get full boost by 4k with a big grin all the way to rev limit. Im sure the GT35 would be perfect for my application but others have said it sort of feels like it falls on its face top end. The gt40 should pull well beyond rev limit and give me plenty of headroom.. If and when it goes I will get an appropriately sized turbo based on how well the gt40 feels.
I am looking for studs for my manifold. Anyone know what length stud I should get? I measured my T3 manifold that had a little less than 20mm studs on it but my only option for that is a 316 SS studs from McMaster with a tensile strength of 70k.
https://www.mcmaster.com/93805a422
Only other option I see is this black oxide steel stud but overall length is 37mm but a tensile strength of like 120k.
https://www.mcmaster.com/98867a350
This is also a full threaded rod vs a setup rod.
hmm I havent seen anyone mention this before when researching. How can you tell? Here are pics of my GT40.
Link to more pics: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...2706502108403/
Last edited by milKt; 11-01-2018 at 02:33 PM.
Correct it is water cooled. Im glad I choose somewhat correctly when initially attaining this turbo.
Anyone have suggestions on removing the exhaust housing? I manged to get the bolt off and soaked the seam in PB blaster. I need to rotate the CHRA but its not budging.
I did test fit the gt40r and good lord is it a tight fit. I need to get the studs to properly mount the turbo to mock up the old trm piping.. Hopefully it all fits the same like it did with the GT35. I will post more pics as soon as I figure out my stud situation.
After PB
I used a chisel and careful, not ferverous, hammering.
Reassemble with 80071 (or the like)
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