Hey guys I popped my head gasket, now I'm going to start to take the old engine "out the front". I know if I go "out the top" I can leave both the A/C and the PS lines attached, and I know I can still leave the PS attached. But what about the A/C, do I need to have the A/C system refrigerant discharged? I assume yes. Because you have to take the A/C condenser out, right. So if that is the case what is the best way to take the front clip off for a "out the front" engine install/removal?
• Built S52 w/Dinan ISR-3 kit, NickG Stage 2+ Tune, Dinan Vortech V2 Supercharger, Dinan Air to Air Intercooler, Dinan CAI, Porsche 803 HFM, Buldogge 6" crank pulley, Griptec 2.90" blower pulley, Eurosport UD pulleys, Dinan 3.38 Diff, Dinan front/rear Swaybars, Dinan springs, Koni Yellow Sport Struts, Ground Control end links, South Bend Clutch Stage 3 Organic, AASCO Light Weight Flywheel 18.5#, Zionsville Radiator & Oil Cooler, Riot Racing BBTB, Schrick Intake Manifold, 42# Injectors, Schrick cams 264/256, Forged Wiseco pistons 9.0 comp., Forged Eagle rods, Supertech dual valve springs & valves, VAC crank & bearings, Supersprint mufflers, Euro Z3 midpipe, Raceland euro headers, Walbro 255, Bevauto ignition coils, Vortech Mondo bypass, Bailey Diverter DV30, Ireland Rear Subframe Bushings, Mason Engineering Strut Brace, Mason Engineering Clutch Petal, Apex 18" EC-7 Wheels, Full Custom Sound System, two trunk lids (with & without OE spoiler), Hardtop, Trunk full of AK's...
If you're going to take it out the front, can't you set your sights a little higher and take it out the top?
Disclaimer: I've never taken the engine/trans out of an M Coupe/Rdstr out the front OR the top; I always drop them out the bottom, same way they went in.
Out the bottom is easiest, out the top is manageable, out the front is a pain and you have to drill out the spotwelds on the radiator support to the frame rails
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Thanks guys. I wish I had a lift. But all I have is a concrete carport. Lol. — I might try out the top. Just seemed like a straight shot with everything out of the way would be easier.
I have done both, (not through the bottom yet) and it is not that much different really. best part of going out the front is you don't have to worry about separating the transmission in the car. But, there is a lot more to do with removing the bumper, rad, ac stuff, etc, so it kind of offsets. If you are just doing the head gasket, I would go from the top.
I don't have a lift either - I've always taken them out the top
Except on two occasions... twice I actually dropped the front subframe, then lifted the car up and over/around the engine/trans. That took quite a lot of creativity. Still actually might have been easier than pulling it up the top though but I wouldn't recommend that
I'm replacing the entire engine, putting the OE engine into storage for a latter date. I already have the entire front clip off, from when I was installing the supercharger and intercooler piping. So all I would have to do is take off the A/C lines and maybe break a few spot welds. Still on the fence as to the best way. I kinda like the idea for taking out the tranny at the same time though. IDK.
Last edited by bubbafett; 10-09-2018 at 06:25 PM.
• Built S52 w/Dinan ISR-3 kit, NickG Stage 2+ Tune, Dinan Vortech V2 Supercharger, Dinan Air to Air Intercooler, Dinan CAI, Porsche 803 HFM, Buldogge 6" crank pulley, Griptec 2.90" blower pulley, Eurosport UD pulleys, Dinan 3.38 Diff, Dinan front/rear Swaybars, Dinan springs, Koni Yellow Sport Struts, Ground Control end links, South Bend Clutch Stage 3 Organic, AASCO Light Weight Flywheel 18.5#, Zionsville Radiator & Oil Cooler, Riot Racing BBTB, Schrick Intake Manifold, 42# Injectors, Schrick cams 264/256, Forged Wiseco pistons 9.0 comp., Forged Eagle rods, Supertech dual valve springs & valves, VAC crank & bearings, Supersprint mufflers, Euro Z3 midpipe, Raceland euro headers, Walbro 255, Bevauto ignition coils, Vortech Mondo bypass, Bailey Diverter DV30, Ireland Rear Subframe Bushings, Mason Engineering Strut Brace, Mason Engineering Clutch Petal, Apex 18" EC-7 Wheels, Full Custom Sound System, two trunk lids (with & without OE spoiler), Hardtop, Trunk full of AK's...
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Wrong answer!
Drill them out, then smooth out the burrs. Upon reassembly, the bumper "shock absorbing" horns is sufficient to clamp it all together (I think they were only spot-welded to keep the pieces in place during initial assembly).
Spot-weld cutter:
There are cheaper ones, but paying up for quality is rarely a bad thing. https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pre...4-p-11736.aspx
• Built S52 w/Dinan ISR-3 kit, NickG Stage 2+ Tune, Dinan Vortech V2 Supercharger, Dinan Air to Air Intercooler, Dinan CAI, Porsche 803 HFM, Buldogge 6" crank pulley, Griptec 2.90" blower pulley, Eurosport UD pulleys, Dinan 3.38 Diff, Dinan front/rear Swaybars, Dinan springs, Koni Yellow Sport Struts, Ground Control end links, South Bend Clutch Stage 3 Organic, AASCO Light Weight Flywheel 18.5#, Zionsville Radiator & Oil Cooler, Riot Racing BBTB, Schrick Intake Manifold, 42# Injectors, Schrick cams 264/256, Forged Wiseco pistons 9.0 comp., Forged Eagle rods, Supertech dual valve springs & valves, VAC crank & bearings, Supersprint mufflers, Euro Z3 midpipe, Raceland euro headers, Walbro 255, Bevauto ignition coils, Vortech Mondo bypass, Bailey Diverter DV30, Ireland Rear Subframe Bushings, Mason Engineering Strut Brace, Mason Engineering Clutch Petal, Apex 18" EC-7 Wheels, Full Custom Sound System, two trunk lids (with & without OE spoiler), Hardtop, Trunk full of AK's...
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