The name should be changed from BringA Trailer to Send-an-Enclosed-Car-Hauler....I do enjoy the amazing and unique cars that are offered but far from where they started.
I agree Steve; I spend the first 10 minutes of my day at work browsing the inventory.
The $5k cap on auction fees surely attracts the big hitters. Why buy a $1M car at Barrett Jackson for $1.1M with buyer's premium when you could spend $1.005M at BAT? And why pay an 8% consignment fee at BJ? It's $99 at BAT. That's a great business model IMO. Take care of the sellers AND the buyers while handling nothing but the ad writing and presentation. They never handle the car. They don't even handle the transaction after the sale whatsoever.
If BAT ever IPO'd, I'd be first in line to buy stock.
There's still a website with plenty of project cars. It's called Craigslist and you have to meet in a Walmart parking lot after dark to buy your cheap wheels.
Last edited by s8ilver; 10-17-2018 at 08:50 PM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
It's a great business model but it annoys me personally because it inflates the asking prices of cars in other sales mediums. Every dingus with a 540i thinks its an M-sport worth more than an M5 now, and every car flipper with a Z3 coupe thinks its worth $70k
I wish that BAT had a rule that you can't buy a car from them, spend some money on it, drive it a few miles, then put it back up for sale on BAT 6 months later. This might discourage people who want to use BAT to flip cars.
Marty
I agree with both of you, BAT could easily control, I bet they turn away allot more cars than they auction off. A simple Vin search would allow them to control it better. It does turn me off to the site when I recognize a car that's been sold there before also.
Though in many ways, they are in business to provide a service, ie, a venue to auction cars off: that's it. It's the marketplace's responsibility, if it so chooses, to not over pay... look at the cases noted above, where they are going for less than the asking prices on the buyer's guide. ... a parallel example is the S52 I'm ending up with: sale price is 25+% under asking price, which was in the thick of buyer's guide price vs mileage spectrum.
In reading through the FAQs, the tire discussions involve quite a few tires which are no longer available. So my question is: what are people running for spirited driving [but with the notion that not all roads are dry all the time]. What do people think of the Pilot Sport 4S? Or ExtremeContact Sport or DWS 06? I've been running the Zeon RS3-G1 on the Z3 - in that it seems impossible to make them hydroplane [appropriate for Oregon trips] - but suspect they're not up to the task of a Z3M. ... the new member of the family will be here in a week, but the tires are a decade old - so before any real driving, they need to be updated/upgraded... ie, time to get my information in order.
I run Michelin Pilot Super Sports on my M Roadsters, but the Ms stay home in bad weather. I can tell you from experience, those do not meet your needs. They are great when the roads are dry, but the moment there is any standing water on the highway, the caution flag goes up.
I'm running Michelin Pilot Super Sports on my M and they're just fine in the winter here. My M is my daily, and winter is the only time of year I commute to a day job. For reference, I'm at the west end of 299. That said, I did take the truck for a couple frog-strangling days last winter. And I wouldn't take the M over 299 to Redding or over the Siskiyou pass in the winter time.
Call me Mel. Some years ago- never mind how long precisely- having little or no money in my purse, and nothing particular to interest me at home, I thought I would motor about a little and see the other parts of the world. It is a way I have of driving off the spleen and regulating the circulation.
Randy, I installed a full set of Koni's on my 99 M Roadster this summer, for the washers and mounts, what order do you use the washers for the front shocks/Struts? Between what was sent with the shocks and what was OEM, I wasnt sure where each washer should have been used and what order....any help or suggestion is appreciated...
After some reading, I chose the Conticontact Sport tires, the newer ones that came out in 2017. 275-40 and 235-45 (= same O.D.) They are wonderful. I'm now a believer in spending more money for tires. Changes the personality of the car.
Both Michelin Pilot Super Sports and Conti ExtremeContact Sport are great tires in my experience. But Michelin PSS would be my personal preference because it gives extra rubber bump that seems to cover the rim a little bit which seems to protect the lip (could just be a placebo though).
2000 Z3 M Titanium Silver / Imola Red+Black Nappa
2011 328i E92 Space Gray Metallic / Leder Dakota+Oyster
Since 1987 12 euros / 2 kdms / 2 jdms
- Zach
A question about "caution flags" - what were on the Z3 when I got it hydroplaned even at the sight of water on the road - the Zeons I've never had them do such, even with Oregon coastal downpours... but this is not to say that I'm going be drying 10/10ths in the wet - I don't think any tire can provide that capability... I guess my question is: how bad is the transition from dry grip to wet grip: reasonable and with good warning; or deadly and binary?
See my reply to Steve... and I'll ask the same question of you: the transition from dry to wet traction: brutal and binary? Or forgiving and gradual? ... the situation that keeps getting me, and why the Zeons are "friendly" is: driving a coastal road, the road is dry for 99% of the surface, and then one comes around a corner, and for whatever reason there is a wet patch. The Zeons might go into mild understeer a bit, but don't hang on out to dry. Some 008's years ago were entirely unforgiving and would hang on out to dry. What I'd like to find is something that is dead sticky in the dry, but forgiving in the transition into the moist surface. ... does such a tire exist? ... w/re Buckhorn or Siskiyou Summits with snow or ice on the road: then I use the 4Runner or Subie - so that's not a concern - or at least a place I don't plan/intend to have the Z3M.
- - - Updated - - -
the 235 and 275s on stock roadstars?
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Thanks.
It depends on what you call reasonable. Good warning is my experience. Enough notice that unless you are completely unaware, it will be fine. It is bad enough that it takes much of the fun out of the drive when there is standing water, but you'll get home safely. When the roads are dry, I think the Pilot Super Sports are great.
I've gone to winter wheels and Ice-X radials for my winter driving on one of the Downing cars and swap out for the Pilot Super Sports in the summer. If it is wet, cold and there is salt out on the roads, the Ms and the Super Sports stay home.
I recently made the upgrade to an s54 coupe after owning an s52 coupe for 4 years. most will say that they are very comparable, that the s52 is more "usable" and has "more low end torque". I can tell you from my perspective, those statements are blasphemy. the S54 seems a lot faster than my old S52 car that by the way had fbo, m50 manifold/catless headers/tune.
When it comes to buying a roadster, the price from 52-54 is not too much where I think its definitely worth it. as long as you keep up with your oil changes, valve adjustments and pay attention to sign of failure your S54 ownership should be relatively smooth.
My S52 car did also have zero issues along the 4 years of driving. it was indeed bulletproof but I think the power gains from the S54 is worth it.
hope I helped, good luck!
I never had any issue with standing water with Michelin Pilots- the original, PS2, PSS. Same with the A/S3+. The last tire I thought was really sketchy with standing water was the original Falken Azenis RT-615. I haven't driven the P4S, but I don't think they would be a bad choice for an all-around tire.
I assume you're talking about the fronts; with strut insert cartridges, they go back together in the same order as taken apart...
(from recent memory) interior profiled spacer is the 1st piece to go onto the stem__providing a flat mating surface for the__upper spring base, then the large diameter heavy-gauge washer (FLAT SIDE FACING SPRING BASE). Next is the grease-retaining/dust-excluding cup-washer (thin-gauge with cup-side facing bearing) then upper bearing/support, a flat-washer and the locknut. Torque to 65 Nm
I can't resist putting a little of this on the assembled strut fasteners, especially the three (3) per side, 8mm studs/locknuts that secure the upper bearing to the strut towers:
quick question: off topic:
are the M roadster front struts the same as the E36
looking for some worn out takeoffs to upgrade to Koni
Randy, thanks for replying, I'll have to take a close look at mine and see if I did the same way. I planned on taking the fronts apart again over the winter to clean and paint the cartridges and components, so I'll be able to check the orientation when apart. Thanks again!!!
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