General thoughts on buying a 100K+ mile M3.

[IrY100Fan]

Hi everyone,

I am in need of a car and have always wanted an M3. I am looking towards wither an e46 M3 or e92 4-door M3. Most of what is around me has more than 100K miles on the odometer. How are M3's (both i6 and V8) with a lot of miles on them? Should I stay away? Unfortunately there is no way of telling how they were driven or if they were maintained properly.

My only personal experience is with the only new car I ever bought, a 2001 330xi. It worked flawlessly up to the 125K mark and then it started having troubles on a regular basis. (Aggressive engine oil leaks, shocks failing, tons of rust on the suspension parts, auto transmission trouble.) Problem is, I don't know if my experience is typical or not.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.
-Brian

[pbonsalb]

You will be buying at the age and miles when more repairs and maintainance is needed.

[MIKYZZ4]

BMWs require periodic maintenance, at least as much,
and possibly more so at the end of the warranty period,
than other more maintenance free models-such as Honda, Toyota,etc.

[beshannon]

Why take the chance?

[pbonsalb]

Price is much lower. Great opportunity for DIYer. Hit or miss fir someone who pays a shop. If you have a good independent shop, that might be a compromise. I bought my 08 E90 M3 when it was 2.5 years old and had 30k miles. I paid 2/3 the cost of new. Had 3.5 years of original and CPO warranty. I needed no or very little work. I have done the work since, including rod bearings as preventative maintenance, pads and rotors, all fluids and plugs and filters, some suspension bushings, low pressure fuel sensor. Now it’s 10 years old and has 93k miles. It’s probably worth 1/3 of new price. I’ll keep it a few more years.

[White94RX]

I would change the rod bearings of either car when you buy it. Factor that into the cost.

[AV8 RN]

Bought my 99 M3 convertible in Dakar yellow with 85k miles and happily owned it till it was rear-ended by a semi with 185k. Did all of the service myself. Just as solid the day she died as the day I got her.

[pbonsalb]

E46M3 and E90M3 are more complex, cost more to maintain, and are less reliable than E36M3, but I think you could get 200k miles out of them if well maintained.

[AV8 RN]

So get a medium mileage e36 M3 and smile all the way to the mechanic...and the bank! Fun cars, just dont get an automatic!

[pbonsalb]

But E36 are 20 years old and will be needing more and more work. I have a 99M3 that I bought in 2005, but I would not buy one today. I’d buy an E46M3 or E90/92M3 or 335i or 135i or M2 or M3/4 depending on budget.

[AV8 RN]

Hmmm, simpler design that happens to be 5-8 years older with fewer stressors due to lighter HP/torque vs much more complex design with much higher stressors. And even the newest e46 is getting a little long in the tooth. Find a creampuff 99 M3 manual for $8500 and leave that $15K '05 M3 for someone with deeper pockets and a friend at the Indy. (Of course, all this coming from me, who just last week bought a superb e38 V12 shorty...though I still miss my old e36)

[MarcoZandrini]

Definitely have the car undergo a pre-purchase inspection (PPI).

[MIKYZZ4]

If you are not a mechanic and cannot perform one on your own,
definitely do as Marco suggests-PPI!

[pbonsalb]

Hmmm, simpler design that happens to be 5-8 years older with fewer stressors due to lighter HP/torque vs much more complex design with much higher stressors. And even the newest e46 is getting a little long in the tooth. Find a creampuff 99 M3 manual for $8500 and leave that $15K '05 M3 for someone with deeper pockets and a friend at the Indy. (Of course, all this coming from me, who just last week bought a superb e38 V12 shorty...though I still miss my old e36)

Cream puff 99M3 for $8500 are hard to find. People want $15k for one and are getting it.

[cabin]

Yep, cream puff E36 M3 for $8500 just isn't going to happen these days unless you are extremely lucky.

[Paul Brest]

Records ,Records Records or buy it for the low black book auction price..---take this advice from and old guy.--just getting it reliable for date night will cost you more than all the "Mods in you head"

[Paul Brest]

Find a good Indy shop and treat them as your mistress--IE... drop off doughnuts some odd day or a pizza at their lunchtime---way before you bring your ride in for more service. Develop a relationship.. and they will take care of you.

[pbonsalb]

Learn to DIY. Old cars are great for DIYers. I maintain my E36 M3, E90 M3 and E61 535xit. I have used a shop once in 10 years and that was a month ag because I lived and my stuff is in storage and my garage was under renovation.

[harristweed]

Some believe an M3 that’s made it to 100k miles hasn’t seen many harsh miles. Whilst that may be true, the PPI, your instincts, the seller’s records, and your interview of the seller should provide the clear picture of yes/no. I’m partial to the E46, but don’t let that cloud your judgment if an E9X that ticks all the right boxes comes your way

[Benspen]

to the op, owning both an e36 and e46 m3s, if reliability Is your concern the e36 is the way to go, the e36 only really has oil pump and vanos issues, if frequently maintained I think they are pretty tough, I recently bought my e36, it has 125k and the rod bearings weren't very worn and I had had an oil pump failure leading to oil starvation for probably 5 minutes of runtime. I really wouldn't worry about struts and suspension rust or auto tranny issues. get a manual and flush the fluid and it should be fine, and if you are buying a well maintained car, the struts have been changed and subframe rust shouldn't be an issue. I think out of the three, the e92 is the worst buy over 100k, if it already has 100k its been driven frequently and likely maintained minimally, but those are only speculations. I find that people who weekend their car maintain it before interval and people who daily often aren't as concerned. the e46 is probably a great buy! as long as its not smg and has had vanos and rod bearings done!

just my 2 cents, I have had great luck with both!