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Thread: 735iL manual swap questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    91 735iL

    735iL manual swap questions

    Hey everyone,

    After going back and forth on getting another car, I decided to go all in with my 7 and do a manual swap/turbo build. I've been trying to get all ducks in order to do the manual swap first but I have a question about the driveshaft. I am pulling three different PNs for a manual 535i, manual 735i, and manual 735iL (euro). I'm not going to even bother with trying to find an OEM 735il manual shaft and manual 735i are rare enough where I'll be hard pressed to get the shaft from one. So, I'm gonna get a 535i driveshaft and have it extended.

    My questions is, would anyone by chance know how much I would have to have it extended by? I would more than likely have only the rear portion extended. The only way I'm seeing I could get correct measurements is putting the trans in (260/6) and see what the distance would be from the diff. I thought should I ask first. OR should I just forget it and go a custom one piece?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Quebec Canada
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    92 735iL (12/1991)
    Interesting project, what kind of power are you expecting to make with the M30 and a turbo?

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    91 735iL
    Probably 300-350 starting off at the crank. Down the line, over 500 with built head, custom intake, and e85 tune. Nothing too crazy to start off but once I get use to the power, I'll dive deep into built motor and other things. My thinking is instead of getting another project, I could dump the money into making the e32 something special.

  4. #4
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    Check with Mike Oswald, host of Sean & Johan's e32 webpage on masscom.net. He may remember the dimensions when he modified his. I helped him swap his 735iL from an auto to a manual a few years ago. He used a Getrag 265. If I recall, he had his car towed to a local driveshaft shop in Bakersfield, CA and they cut it to suit. I pulled the front half d/s from a 535i and shipped it to him. He also had issues with customizing the shifter support bits but I don't think that would be a problem if you're using a 260-6.

    As for the turbo, perhaps you would be happier leaving the automatic as-is for building boost, but other e32 735i's 5-speeds have been turbo'd (mine included). You'll need a lower diff ratio for sure, 3.15, 3.23, perhaps 3.46 at the most, if going to a 5-speed.
    ​"The US Olympics bobsled team has renamed their sled 'Biden' because nothing has taken America downhill faster"

    TheStigg (aka "gale")
    92 735i 5-spd, turbo pending
    89 535i 5-spd (may she rest in pieces)
    94 325ic 5-spd
    87 325is

  5. #5
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    91 735iL
    I totally forgot about the diff. Been reading up on it and confusing is an understatement. So many questions just about that! But, I will definitely get in touch with Mike soon. Still trying to figure all of this out and what I really want to do.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    warwick RI
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    E30/E32/F25
    When I had my drive shaft done they had me measure from the out put flange of the trans to the center support holes in the body. I used Carolina drive shaft they were awesome cheap and it took about 10 days
    Me E30 87/ 325i + F25 12/ M-Sport + E32 94/ 740i

    G/F’s E34 92/ 525iT + F48 18/ X1

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    91 735iL
    So you got a longer front portion of the driveshaft instead of a rear, correct? I think for my sake I'm going to go with a 260/6, 535i driveshaft, and 3.46 diff which I could all get from an e34. Then after that get in contact with Carolina driveshaft or someone local. Which diff I should run has seriously turned my mind to mush which what is compatible with what. Trying to get the best of both worlds with acceleration and highway mpg.

    Also for your clutch pedal...did you get just the pedal or did you swap the whole assembly?

  8. #8
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    You can swap just the brake and clutch pedals without removing the whole assembly. Swapping the entire assembly is a royal pain, especially if it has the power telescoping steering column. Many early automatic e32's have the return spring perch on the frame. Mine didn't so I fabbed an add-on bracket and just swapped the pedals.

    factory bracket:
    bracket14.jpg

    add-on bracket:
    dt_bracket.jpg

    add-on bracket installed:
    pedal9.jpg

    return spring installed:
    pedal1.jpg

    Notice in the pictures that the 2 threaded holes will already be in your existing pedal box frame for mounting the clutch master cylinder, as well as a plug in the firewall which you can push out for feeding the outlet end of the master cylinder thru.
    Last edited by TheStigg; 10-04-2018 at 12:18 PM.
    ​"The US Olympics bobsled team has renamed their sled 'Biden' because nothing has taken America downhill faster"

    TheStigg (aka "gale")
    92 735i 5-spd, turbo pending
    89 535i 5-spd (may she rest in pieces)
    94 325ic 5-spd
    87 325is

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    warwick RI
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    E30/E32/F25
    Yes just the front. Do what thestigg said with the pedals I did the same thing . My clutch return spring broke after 6k miles I haven’t had one for over 15k clutch pedal feels exactly the same
    Me E30 87/ 325i + F25 12/ M-Sport + E32 94/ 740i

    G/F’s E34 92/ 525iT + F48 18/ X1

  10. #10
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    If you do go without the return spring, reach down periodically, say every 100 miles or so, and lightly pull the pedal all the way back. Once the system is bled, it will continue to be self-bleeding. Pulling the pedal back will let it burp any air bubbles and top itself off.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Oklahoma
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    2
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    Soon to be e32
    Did you complete the swap? If so would you mind giving me the measurements for the driveshaft, I’m in a tight spot of buying my buddies e32 to complete the swap

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