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Thread: Misfiring issue

  1. #1
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    Misfiring issue

    Hello all,

    So several issues have come up recently with my car, seemingly all at once and to the point where I'm beginning to think that "enough is enough" and that I'll probably end up selling the car after having thrown literally thousands of $ at it... they are as follows:

    - in the "no good deed goes unpunished" department, I recently cleaned my power steering circuit and put some fresh dex 3 oil in it, hoping that a slightly annoying pump noise would go down and that the steering would stop being randomly stiffer than usual: it ended up being -much- noisier and is basically now shot. My question is: can I replace the pump with another one than an e46's, known to be more reliable. I'm thinking e34/e39 or any other series with more "heavy duty" designed pumps.

    - that one is a real bummer and is getting increasingly present: the car stutters if I press the gas pedal anything more than lightly, seemingly especially whem warm. It does not happen 100% of the time but with an increasing regularity. I had had some short lived "episodes" of stuttering when going WOT since I flashed the DME with a M52TUB28 program, but it was so rare that I basically disregarded them up until recently, when it decided to do it about 700 miles from home, during my holiday trip . One thing that has been present ever since the flash though: a rough idle when depressing the clutch on slowing down (much less if I put the car in neutral immediately, without downshifting until coming to a stop)

    Here is what I have done so far to try to solve the issue:
    - new spark plugs
    - new fuel filter
    - cleaned MAF sensor + air filter (washable one) + DISA valve + ICV.
    -checked all the hoses between the MAF sensor and the intake manifold: small ones and big ones.

    Yesterday it threw "O2 sensor bank 1" and "O2 sensor bank 2" at me (respectively P0130 and P0150: I couldn't get INPA to communicate with my OBDII port because I can't find which com port it uses anymore so I had to do with an OBDII scanner). When I cleared them the first time and scanned for faults this morning I only got the P0130 one pending. I cleaned the MAF and drove the car: it seemed to be doing better and no SES light came up this time, even when going WOT, but the issues rapidly came back and it might be even worse than before.

    - The last one (the dangerous one lol) : although I have recent tires, and did a full geometry setup recently, I feel that on little bumpy B roads the car is unsafe and handles bumps very badly. Basically it feels like the rear suspension is not independent anymore, as when, for e.g., the rear left tire goes on a bump, the whole rear of the car gets unsettled, left and right, and it sort of "jumps". Sometimes it's almost like the rear has a "a life of its own" and is not even linked to the rest of the car. And it has nothing to do with sliding/drifting: it's almost as if I could feel the chassis "twisting/skewing"
    It has 88000 miles on an original factory sport suspension so I'm thinking the dumpers are up for a change, but I also think that the dreaded E46's dreaded rear subframe mounting issue could be the culprit (no visible cracks in the spare tire housing or dumpers mounting points so far)

    Sorry for the very long post and thanks for reading. I am really pissed off right now and I hope you guys can help me narrow things down on some of these issues if not all. Any help much appreciated!
    Last edited by Breeze1; 09-30-2018 at 03:53 PM.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  2. #2
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    Hi Nayl!

    Have you received your injectors?

    Um, on the steering....have you ever replaced the hose shown here as part #3?

    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=32_0958

    See the unexplained splice, right where the #3 is pointing, in the middle of it? That's a restrictor. At the very least, remove that hose and blow really hard into it, with compressed air.

    Depressing the clutch reduces idle speed by 50 rpm. I'm thinking you have a large intake / ccv system leak. The oil return tube to the dipstick is a usual culprit; there are several others, but this one is not found without a smoke test.

    You need to get underneath the car with a big prybar, and look very carefully for your rear suspension's unauthorized movement.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  3. #3
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    Hi Chris!

    I did get an sms from postal services saying that I have to get them from their office (for some reason they did not deliver them to the address provided and there seems to be a misunderstanding about shipment fees, which have been already paid but are mentioned in the sms. I'm waiting for RC injection to get back to me with an invoice that includes the shipping fee to go to the office) but I couldn't get them yet since I just came back from my trip yesterday.

    About the PS, I did put some white spirit into it with a needle and blown into it until the white spirit started to come out dirt free... I'm thinking air is getting into the system somehow, maybe through the rack? We did check it for leaks the last time I replaced the pump (3 and counting, in 5 years!), but something seems to be wrong...any as far as other series', more reliable pumps go?

    About the ccv system, I'll look remove the top right black engine cover, as well as the return tube you mentioned and see what I find (smoke test here is going to be tricky since smoke machines are not available locally)). I was thinking about deleting it as shown on some youtube tutorials anyway since it seems to be troublesome. I'll have to either order or fabricate my own oil catch tank to avoid soiling the intake with oil fumes. When I cleaned the icv and DISA valve I made sure they were really flush with the manifold when I put them back on, but I'll double check that as well...

    Suspension will be checked thoroughly, yeah. I'm thinking that the diff/subframe are going to have to be removed to check for cracks...

    Thanks for your help, will keep you posted!
    Last edited by Breeze1; 10-01-2018 at 12:41 AM.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  4. #4
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    You don't need to remove the diff and subframe. When the bodyshell is cracking, it is VERY obvious....just look up at the body around each mount point for the subframe. Also, check the front mount of each trailing arm, and use a pry bar on every control arm except the lower control arms....they are incredibly weak, and you'll bend them!

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    You don't need to remove the diff and subframe. When the bodyshell is cracking, it is VERY obvious....just look up at the body around each mount point for the subframe. Also, check the front mount of each trailing arm, and use a pry bar on every control arm except the lower control arms....they are incredibly weak, and you'll bend them!
    Will do, thanks!

    About the stuttering issue, I noticed yesterday that there is a small oil leak on the left side of the engine, probably due to a failing cylinder head cover's gasket. I don't think the oil leak is what's causing the stuttering since I have seen several BMW engines almost dripping with oil from a faulty gasket with no stuttering issues, but maybe a ccv issue causing a vacuum leak could create an overpressurezation of the system, hence the oil leak?
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  6. #6
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    Update: so I removed the black engine plastic covers, left and right, to look for any damage, either electrical or to one of the ccv's hoses, dipstick included, and couldn't see anything wrong or any oil leaking anywhere. I also checked the oil level and it's exactly the same as before my 2000 miles or so trip, which I don't think would be the case if there was an issue with the ccv. Thinking about it it also seems unlikely that the ccv circuit is at fault or any of the vacuum hoses since it was all changed, wherever necessary, together with the engine like, less than 6 months ago by my mechanic and everything seems to be in good shape.

    I thought I could have poorly put the icv back in place after cleaning it but 1) I remember making sure that it was correctly in place, as well as the DISA valve 2) if that was the case the stuttering would have appeared/gotten worse immediately after this process, which it didn't.

    So that leaves me with two ideas:
    - Could the MAF sensor be responsible, eventhough the little wires are not cut/thorn and it's clean? It was not changed with the engine.

    - that aluminium adapter plate one has to put to be able to put the M54's intake manifold onto the M52TU could be at fault if it is not perfectly adjusted. None of those symptoms (rough idle when depressing the clutch after a drive at high speeds/ increasingly bad stuttering) were present when the car was running on the M52TUB25's software instead of the 28's, so I'm thinking the additional power provided could have revealed minor adjustments issues, but that's just a wild guess.

    Tomorrow I'll double check the DISA and ICV and after that the only thing I can think about is that adapter plate but boy it would mean taking apart the whole intake manifold and this is just not a good time for this...

    Edit: I'll also look for any exhaust leaks since it's said that they could trigger both precats sensors' error codes.
    Last edited by Breeze1; 10-01-2018 at 04:55 PM.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  7. #7
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    What happens if you disconnect the MAF, and then start and drive the car?

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    What happens if you disconnect the MAF, and then start and drive the car?
    I haven't tried that yet, will do tomorrow or maybe saturday when I take it to the scrapyard, since I'll have to go for the PS and "instability" issues at the very least. Yesterday evening I kept on checking stuff, and I found two things that (I hope) could explain the rough idle and/or the stuttering:

    - one of the spark plugs was not tightened properly, and some oil had made its way onto the plug's electrode; I cleaned it with some white spirit and put it back in
    - could be my imagination, but I heard what sounds like a small exhaust leak near the exhaust manifold (bit louder than usual sound + some sort of knocking sound) and the noise coming from the muffler has apparently decreased a bit. That could explain the O2 sensors misreadings I guess...

    The "rough idle" happens almost never when in neutral, standing still, and definitely never on cold starts. What happens is that when I depress the clutch in order to downshift before coming to a full stop, the rpm needle "plunges" towards 0, repeats once or twice after going to 700/800 rpm's and then remains steady at idle, until the next acceleration/stopping cycle. That's for the idle part.

    The stuttering appeared later and "evolved": at first it would happen only once in a while, either during a WOT acceleration OR right after doing it, upon upshifting and pressing the gas lightly. It would do that for 1-2 sec and then go away until the next time. Sometimes when going WOT it would not stutter but I would clearly feel that past 4-5000 rpms the car was low on power, as if not breathing well or not getting enough fuel. Most times it would behave normally and rev steadily and healthily to 6000rpms... Last time I drove it (that's when I got the O2 sensors error codes, which have never come back since I cleared them) it did it much more frequently, on a warm engine, and basically as soon as I pressed the gas pedal anything more than for maintaining speed.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  9. #9
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    An update/more specific inquiry, about the power steering, since I'm going to change the pump tomorrow at the scrapyard:

    - Please confirm that the procedure is as follows:
    - remove the pump
    - flush the oil's expansion tank (preferably put a new one, which I'm hoping to find and buy before tomorrow)
    - flush the remaining oil in the system by turning the steering wheel left/right until none comes out
    - blow through the hose that has a restrictor to clean it (already did but I'll do it again)
    - put everything back in place, add oil, start engine with tank's cap open and let it bleed itself until no air bubbles are showing.

    I have two side questions regarding this procedure:

    - Please advise about any more suitable (as in RELIABLE ) alternative to the E46's pump if there is one; something more "heavy duty" comes to my mind, like a pump from an "X" series, 7 series or whatnot
    - If I don't find a brand new expansion tank and wish to ensure that lubrication will be optimal at all times, is it acceptable to remove the filter from a used expansion tank (by breaking it and getting the pieces out one by one, since the tanks can't be opened) ? I'm aware that the pump wouldn't last as long as with a filter equipped tank because of metal/dirt particles going through the system, but at this point I'd rather willingly get 2-3 years of proper functioning out of it than keep having a randomly stiff/noisy steering and replacing pumps every year or so.

    I would REALLY like to find peace with this stupid steering stuff, so any help will be much appreciated.
    Last edited by Breeze1; 10-05-2018 at 07:47 AM.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  10. #10
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    If you've replaced 3 pumps, you have a different issue, more than likely. Personally, I'd replace the hose with the restrictor. AND, I'd absolutely replace the reservoir, first and foremost, with a brand new one. No used ones, no trying to cram the filter screen out of a broken one into yours (that's impossible anyway).

    The reservoir is a maintenance item anyway. And, like replacing a fuel pump, this filter ALWAYS gets replaced with the pump. Before I'd have considered putting a second pump on it, I'd have replaced the restrictor hose.

    There's really nothing wrong with an E46's pump except the plastic hose nipple. In fact, it sounds like you have replaced as many E46 power steering pumps as I have....think about that.

    Does your fluid turn silvery and black?

    To bleed the system:
    Raise the front wheels.
    Detach the large hose (held by a hose clamp) from the power steering pump, to drain the reservoir. Reattach the hose to the pump, and snug up the hose clamp.
    Fill the reservoir, then, without starting the engine, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock twice. Top up the reservoir.
    Start the engine, turn the wheel from lock to lock three or for times, shut off the engine.

    Remove the same hose at the pump, drain the reservoir this way again, reclamp, refill, and repeat the above steps until all your fluid is clean and bright red. (You're using Dexron III ATF, right? )

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  11. #11
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    Thanks for the detailed explanation Chris, I was going to miss a few steps, like draining it several times instead of one ! Yes I use Dex III ATF.

    About the reservoir, the issue is that I couldn't find a new one off the shelf today and I would have to order it and wait a few weeks to get it, while the procedure has to take place tomorrow as the car is pretty much undrivable now. My question was not about trying to fit a different filter in a used reservoir (it can't be opened), but just get rid of the filter completely, to at least make sure that the oil flows freely. I know it is not how it should be done, but given the circumstances, can it still be done or is the risk to the pump too high?

    About the different issue you're mentioning, could a failing steering rack cause pumps to fail? I checked it the last time and it seemed fine (no leaks or anything; maybe the steering wheel has started to loosen a bit around the center, like 1cm of play left and right but that is all)

    About the fluid, it does darken a bit but still looks reddish, not silvery black

    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    If you've replaced 3 pumps, you have a different issue, more than likely. Personally, I'd replace the hose with the restrictor. AND, I'd absolutely replace the reservoir, first and foremost, with a brand new one. No used ones, no trying to cram the filter screen out of a broken one into yours (that's impossible anyway).

    The reservoir is a maintenance item anyway. And, like replacing a fuel pump, this filter ALWAYS gets replaced with the pump. Before I'd have considered putting a second pump on it, I'd have replaced the restrictor hose.

    There's really nothing wrong with an E46's pump except the plastic hose nipple. In fact, it sounds like you have replaced as many E46 power steering pumps as I have....think about that.

    Does your fluid turn silvery and black?

    To bleed the system:
    Raise the front wheels.
    Detach the large hose (held by a hose clamp) from the power steering pump, to drain the reservoir. Reattach the hose to the pump, and snug up the hose clamp.
    Fill the reservoir, then, without starting the engine, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock twice. Top up the reservoir.
    Start the engine, turn the wheel from lock to lock three or for times, shut off the engine.

    Remove the same hose at the pump, drain the reservoir this way again, reclamp, refill, and repeat the above steps until all your fluid is clean and bright red. (You're using Dexron III ATF, right? )
    Last edited by Breeze1; 10-05-2018 at 08:37 PM.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  12. #12
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    Is the fluid turning black and silvery?

    I'd change the hose and reservoir, sorry. I would not change the pump until that was done.

    I can't alter that answer, because, again: you've changed as many E46 pumps as I have, which means that you're almost certainly changing the wrong item.

    I change at least three Mercedes pumps per year, but maybe one BMW pump every couple of years. Maybe it's just the "luck of the draw", but to me, BMW pumps don't fail much. Well, unless someone mixes fluids. CHF 11 systems do not deal with red or clear fluids.

    Others may have different experiences.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  13. #13
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    The liquid gets a bit darker than its color when new, like "brownish", but not black. But then again it might be due to the fact that it was not drained twice as you mentioned, only once. I'll change the hose too and since I won't be able to get a brand new reservoir tomorrow, I'll if I can find one from other, much more recent Bmw's so that there will be good chances it was not used as much (since it's impossible to check the filter.
    Last edited by Breeze1; 10-06-2018 at 02:35 AM.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  14. #14
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    Okay so I wanted to try as much things and get as much info as possible before reporting here. I'll pass on the rant since facts speak for themselves anyway LOL.

    I'll focus on the stuttering issue and try to sum up things as much as possible.

    - last weekend I thought I would go to an exhaust shop and make sure that the exhaust manifold was properly tightened up, because of the o2 sensors error I got: bingo, half the bolts were loose and the EM wasn't flush with the engine. Tightened them properly, went for a drive: no more stuttering, accelerates like a "blast", I'm thinking that I'm done with the issue and that all is well now. The morning after, the stuttering is back! I park the car for the whole week since I walk to work anyway and wait for yesterday to try and find what's wrong.

    - yesterday, went to the mechanic, to be told that the MAF sensor was probably the culprit and that it needed to be cleaned with alcohol and not white spirit since, well, white spirit leaves a white layer that could impair readings. Same story: went for a drive, no issues at all, I was relieved. The next drive the stuttering came back a bit but I thought "oh well, we'll see tomorrow".

    This morning, stuttering back more than ever. Did the following: cleaned maf again, pulled icv and cleaned it (again), made sure that the DISA valve was working properly, went for a drive: you guessed it. Not only is there no more issue, but I would say that the thing became too fast for a 328i. 30 to 60 "feels like 2 seconds", then it does it again, but just a bit and is back to normal.

    I noticed something worrying both yesterday and today (happened only twice in total): at some point after test driving it "hard", when going easy on the throttle and at low speeds, I could hear a distinct grinding noise coming from the front of the car, as if some metal part was spinning while not lubricated enough. A bit like the noise the engine makes when downshifting and going into engine braking mode, but with a somehow different note to it and a bit louder. It lasted a couple of seconds both times and everything went back to normal sound wise. I've been told it could be the chain tensioner that is failing and causing both the sound and the stuttering issue. I'm also thinking about the vanos, I don't know...

    On a side note, when I replaced the old engine with that one I put castrol edge 5w40 in it and done about 3000 miles since without changing the oil. I don't know if that is a problem and if it would be better to change it before time to allow any "old oil" residues to come out.

    Please help, I'm at a loss for ideas and would REALLY like to avoid causing any damage to that engine.
    Last edited by Breeze1; 10-14-2018 at 02:51 PM.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  15. #15
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    You're mixing your metaphors, Nayl. Don't overthink it.

    "Grinding" as you describe it is not likely to be related to an internal engine issue.

    You need to separate engine rpm from road speed from gear ratio, from cornering loads.

    We need to isolate the issue.

    Cleaning MAFs is really a rare success, reserved mainly for those cars which are running an oiled air filter. Unless you're running an aftermarket filter which is grossly overoiled, this isn't your issue....not to say that your MAF is good, just to say that you can quit cleaning it.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  16. #16
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    Maybe I am yeah...the best analogy I can think of is the sound a bike makes when you spin the pedals backwards instead of forwards: you can hear the chain making contact with the chain rings, unlike when spinning forwards.

    About the stuttering issue, what puzzles me is that each time you touch something (exhaust manifold / MAF sensor) the car seems to be completely fixed, only to start doing it again a few minutes/miles later...
    Last edited by Breeze1; 10-15-2018 at 05:35 AM.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  17. #17
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    Bump. Does that sound ring any bell to either one of you guys? Is there a way to knowing if the chain tensioner/chain is going bad without removing the valve cover?
    Like I said it only happened twice for 2 secs, so I don't know what to think or what that possibly could be anymore...
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  18. #18
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    Aw, c'mon buddy: You just asked me if a sound that you've described, but I can't hear, rings a bell? Nope. Definitely not. My hearing isn't that good, especially if I'm trying to imagine hearing something.

    Did you get your injectors?

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  19. #19
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    Trying to diagnose from just another persons interpretation of a sound is damn near impossible,
    so I'll just assume that sound you hear is the chain/tensioner.

    Do you poke around under the hood during the time the noise is present to try to pinpoint noise location?
    Have you tried searching for other possible causes for engine noises, such as pulleys, sticking AC clutch?

    For the stuttering, have you considered checking Vanos solenoids for sludge or sticking?
    Coils for signs of arcing?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    Aw, c'mon buddy: You just asked me if a sound that you've described, but I can't hear, rings a bell? Nope. Definitely not. My hearing isn't that good, especially if I'm trying to imagine hearing something.

    Did you get your injectors?
    https://youtu.be/dCjUIrW-LVk imagine the same sound but a touch faster and with a stable speed. Man, the wonders of youtube

    The injectors have arrived at the post office quite some time ago but I haven't retrieved them yet, because basically customs are trying to screw me with a $70 tax on a SERVICE performed on used items (on top of the $60 fees I paid to USPS). I have to argue my case before retrieving the package otherwise I'll have 0 chance of them waving the fee.

    I could pay the $70 to make my life easier but 1) I don't like the way they treat people 2) I have spent so much money on that frustrating piece of garbage lately that it wouldn't hurt me to save $70.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    Trying to diagnose from just another persons interpretation of a sound is damn near impossible,
    so I'll just assume that sound you hear is the chain/tensioner.

    Do you poke around under the hood during the time the noise is present to try to pinpoint noise location?
    Have you tried searching for other possible causes for engine noises, such as pulleys, sticking AC clutch?

    For the stuttering, have you considered checking Vanos solenoids for sludge or sticking?
    Coils for signs of arcing?

    Thanks for your help Mikyzz4! Answers to your questions in their respective colors:

    I didn't have time to do so because it only happened twice and lasted 1-2 secs each
    I do have a randomly noisy accessory belt, since some power steering oil was dumped on it recently by my mechanic. It's been abundantly rinsed with water and a few days later covered in baby powder (never thought I would do that in my life ) to dry it up, but it still makes noise from time to time and one of the pulleys has also become noisy in the process, but it doesn't sound like that "metallic" noise I have heard twice (please see the link shared in my reply to bmwdirtracer). I'm planning on changing all that anyway, it's just that I literaly don't have time to get to it because of the other more pressing issues
    Haven't done that yet, thanks for the hint (about the coils I only peaked inside them to see if there was any sign of oxydation and they seem perfectly fine, but I didn't know about the arcing issue which apparently shows rather on the outside, on the plastic part, like some sort of dent?).

    The thing that strikes me with that stuttering issue is that, when it does not stutter after having intervened on it (exhaust manifold, MAF sensor like I said), it works way better than before the issue appeared and basically goes like stink, with an instantaneous throttle response and very solid acceleration. Then it either starts running out of breath at 4-5000 rpms without really stuttering, it just starts feeling underpowered instead of overpowered OR it keeps going like a champ all the way to redline but then, after upshifting and being back at low revs, it stutters but not in violent, shaky way, like what is produced by misfires; more like short but repeated chokes

    On a side note, when I deleted my SAP, I did not really know what to do with the little rubber hose coming from the back of the intake manifold (where it says "goes to check valve next to SAP" on the pic), so I have been trying to either leave it open or seal it with adhesive tape but it doesn't seem to make a difference and the stuttering issue appeared long after deleting the SAP.

    P.S: about the "330i" indication on the pic, it is correct since that's what my M52TUB28 has; it's been converted from throtthe by wire to throttle by cable to be able to fit on it.
    Last edited by Breeze1; 10-18-2018 at 09:57 AM.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  22. #22
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    EXOTICS
    • You could try spraying or wiping the pulleys with brake cleaner to clean them up, and maybe eliminate the noise.
    • Arcing can appear as very tiny cracks or pitting on the coils.
    • I feel the timing of the stuttering issue may just be a coincidence, now as to the cause of it, after reading through this thread again from the beginning, I suspect fuel delivery.
    • Taking a page from Chris' book:Hook up a FPG to fuel rail with a hose long enough to tape gauge to the windshield.A quick glance at the gauge during a stuttering episode should verify my suspicions.
    • Remove the SAP hose from that nipple and place a rubber cap over it.
    Last edited by MIKYZZ4; 10-18-2018 at 01:26 PM.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    • You could try spraying or wiping the pulleys with brake cleaner to clean them up, and maybe eliminate the noise.
    • Arcing can appear as very tiny cracks or pitting on the coils.
    • I feel the timing of the stuttering issue may just be a coincidence, now as to the cause of it, after reading through this thread again from the beginning, I suspect fuel delivery.
    • Taking a page from Chris' book:Hook up a FPG to fuel rail with a hose long enough to tape gauge to the windshield.A quick glance at the gauge during a stuttering episode should verify my suspicions.
    • Remove the SAP hose from that nipple and place a rubber cap over it.
    Thank you sir. I'll go through that on saturday. I have already tried replacing the fuel pump but it didn't fix the issue. Maybe the one I tried was bad too. I'll try a different one. Fuel filter is a new Mahle or Mann (can't remember) and fuel lines seem all fine (no leaks or dents...).
    About the FPG, I'll see if I can find one after trying another FP first. Unfortunately the Moroccan market has nothing to do with the US's and what seems common there is not necessarily here. I mean even compared to Europe the US are a gearhead's dream. You guys are very lucky to have that
    Last edited by Breeze1; 10-18-2018 at 02:27 PM.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  24. #24
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    Okay so yesterday my attention was forcibly brought back to the stuttering issue (because believe it or not, I spent the last 3 saturdays tackling the power steering issue, only to have the pump literally snap on me saturday: I now have manual steering in 1.4t car with 17" wheels, if you can imagine how that feels ) because of a fuel leak:

    I filled the gas tank to about 3/4, started the car up: a strong gas smell suddenly entered the cabin. checked below the car, nothing; opened the hood, no smell; next, I took the backseat off to check the fuel pump: there was a little bit (around 2.5") of gas sitting on the pump's cover. I didn't do much except wiping the gas off and trying to adjust the hose a bit (it seemed like it could be pushed about 1mm further): as soon as I removed the clamp and touched the hose (without pulling it off or anything) it started squirting fuel. I was in a gas station and could not afford to get stranded so basically I put everything back and drove away. first few miles: no smell; went WOT once: gas smell again... after that I only drove the car slowly but the smell kept coming back and forth for the whole 30min or so drive.

    Over the past few weeks I did smell gas on 2 or 3 occasions but it was on startup and lasted just for a few secs, so I admit I did not really pay attention to it (thought it was related to the stuttering issue but did not look into it thoroughly).

    So here is what I think happened: a few months ago I had an issue with the fuel gauge giving weird, fluctuating readings; my mechanic removed the fuel pump (never did it myself at the time so I was just watching) to check the fuel sensor; when he did so, the white plastic ring that sits between the rubber seal and the pump (which I believed also works as a marker for the pump's notch) came off; he put it back in together with the pump and everything; yesterday when I checked the hose it seemed to be a bit offset compared to where it would sit naturally (it was not going straight towards the left side's level sensor as I believe it should: it was a little bit curved; I'd say at a 10°-15° angle). My theory is that pressure has been building up in the tank/ the evaporation system for months because of that improper fitting, which finally resulted in the stuttering issue and the leak.

    Yesterday I finally formated my laptop and reinstalled INPA from scratch; attached are the pics of the diagnostic's results. I believe some of them wouldn't show up if I erased them and ran another diagnostic, because many things have been done since (leaky exhaust manifold adjustement, icv and DISA + MAF sensor cleaning to name a few), but I thought they could still help narrow things down.

    There is a 6th pic but I couldn't attach it because of forum limitations: the error is
    "228 lambda control tolerance bank 2 to big
    error frequency: 1
    logistic counter: 39
    engine speed: 3424.00 1/min
    load: 168.86 mg/Hub
    temp cooling water : 79.5 grad C
    lambda control tolerance bank 2 : 15.23%
    appear before (rel.) 12.40h
    "

    Dugihowser: I hope your car's issue has been fixed but if it was not I have a feeling this thread could be of interest to you.

    Any input highly appreciated.

    Edit: the SAP was deleted, if that changes anything,and the stuttering issue is almost completely gone (still happens but I'd say a mere 10-20% of the frequency it used to happen at).
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Breeze1; 10-29-2018 at 12:18 PM.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  25. #25
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    Bump, anyone? I would appreciate to have my impressions either confirmed or invalidated to help me with what follows.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

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