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Thread: kenne bell Boost pump possible issues

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    kentucky
    Posts
    671
    My Cars
    '98 Z3 M Roadster

    kenne bell Boost pump possible issues

    Hi guys I installed a kenne bell boost a pump, and im having issues. I went by their instructions (not Dinans with two extra relays), I'm not getting the 17 volts I should. When I do power on test my volts start at 0 and climb slowly to about 10.5 volts (on the Vi/g fuel pump line the pump is wired into). I called keen bell and basically if you dont drive a Ford they have no idea what the hell is going on.

    I understand you can wire in backwards, but since the battery is in the trunk, and I tapped in just before the fuel pump relay not sure how that would work. I am testing good battery power on the line feeding the pump and the wire out the pump. Also the fuel pump relay is "clicking" twice, not sure if that is correct. Also tested by Bumping the fuel pump fuse in the fuse box form 15A to 30A not much difference.

    Any advice would be great. I may wire in reverse of what I currently have and see what happens. Also I'm using the hobbs switch and have 10 psi of vacuum applied to the vacuum line.
    Built S52 w/Dinan ISR-3 kit, NickG Stage 2+ Tune, Dinan Vortech V2 Supercharger, Dinan Air to Air Intercooler, Dinan CAI, Porsche 803 HFM, Buldogge 6" crank pulley, Griptec 2.90" blower pulley, Eurosport UD pulleys, Dinan 3.38 Diff, Dinan front/rear Swaybars, Dinan springs, Koni Yellow Sport Struts, Ground Control end links, South Bend Clutch Stage 3 Organic, AASCO Light Weight Flywheel 18.5#, Zionsville Radiator & Oil Cooler, Riot Racing BBTB, Schrick Intake Manifold, 42# Injectors, Schrick cams 264/256, Forged Wiseco pistons 9.0 comp., Forged Eagle rods, Supertech dual valve springs & valves, VAC crank & bearings, Supersprint mufflers, Euro Z3 midpipe, Raceland euro headers, Walbro 255, Bevauto ignition coils, Vortech Mondo bypass, Bailey Diverter DV30, Ireland Rear Subframe Bushings, Mason Engineering Strut Brace, Mason Engineering Clutch Petal, Apex 18" EC-7 Wheels, Full Custom Sound System, two trunk lids (with & without OE spoiler), Hardtop, Trunk full of AK's...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Minnesota eh?
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    6,155
    My Cars
    86 325es
    They are not the most reliable thing on the planet so I wouldn't be surprised if its just a bad unit.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    P-town Utah
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    Lotus Super 7
    I have installed many of them. Never a problem. Honestly it sounds like a wiring deal to me. you give the thing ground and a 12v switched input that used to go to your fuel pump. You then wire the output to the pump. It then has two other wires that trigger the pump to go into high voltage mode. Not to much to it. Double check your wiring.
    Attention TURBO LOVERS, Great book -----> How to turbocharge and Tune your Engine

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    kentucky
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    '98 Z3 M Roadster
    Quote Originally Posted by flexer View Post
    I have installed many of them. Never a problem. Honestly it sounds like a wiring deal to me. you give the thing ground and a 12v switched input that used to go to your fuel pump. You then wire the output to the pump. It then has two other wires that trigger the pump to go into high voltage mode. Not to much to it. Double check your wiring.
    Where did you wire into your fuel pump line at?


    Just an update: This issue has been found 100% it turns out to be the Kenne Bell boost a pump. You cannot wire it the way Dinan describes in the supercharger installation manual. But in their defense the manual did not come with the wiring diagram. I tried wiring it two different ways; and thanks to forum member pbonsalb who helped me with the wiring, to know it was incorrect. And a shout out to forum member 328 Power 04 328 who offered to remotely program my DME if need be. I appreciate the community here when the chips are down and you just want to beat your head against the wall.

    I have to admit it sounds damn good. -- It's just good to know I have the ability to follow a guide, and the skill-set to do it (some 300 steps, change the clutch, and align the DME all in my garage. But alas, I still make nube mistakes. lol lol
    Last edited by bubbafett; 09-26-2018 at 09:04 PM.
    Built S52 w/Dinan ISR-3 kit, NickG Stage 2+ Tune, Dinan Vortech V2 Supercharger, Dinan Air to Air Intercooler, Dinan CAI, Porsche 803 HFM, Buldogge 6" crank pulley, Griptec 2.90" blower pulley, Eurosport UD pulleys, Dinan 3.38 Diff, Dinan front/rear Swaybars, Dinan springs, Koni Yellow Sport Struts, Ground Control end links, South Bend Clutch Stage 3 Organic, AASCO Light Weight Flywheel 18.5#, Zionsville Radiator & Oil Cooler, Riot Racing BBTB, Schrick Intake Manifold, 42# Injectors, Schrick cams 264/256, Forged Wiseco pistons 9.0 comp., Forged Eagle rods, Supertech dual valve springs & valves, VAC crank & bearings, Supersprint mufflers, Euro Z3 midpipe, Raceland euro headers, Walbro 255, Bevauto ignition coils, Vortech Mondo bypass, Bailey Diverter DV30, Ireland Rear Subframe Bushings, Mason Engineering Strut Brace, Mason Engineering Clutch Petal, Apex 18" EC-7 Wheels, Full Custom Sound System, two trunk lids (with & without OE spoiler), Hardtop, Trunk full of AK's...

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