So I recently bought a 1997 328i from a buddy of mine with 141k miles. I took it for an 8 hour trip afterwards and there was no overheating, nothing. Anyways I get home and the next morning and I check the coolant level... It was like 6 inches low, but still did not over heat. I changed the oil and it just looked old and dark brown, nothing milky at all and didn't smell like coolant contamination. I topped the coolant off yesterday night and just drove it now and it has lost another 5 inches of coolant. I check the oil cap and it looks okay, nothing milky or anything. I do not see a leak anywhere other than possibly under the intake manifold or along the block, I swiped with my finger and it smelled sort of like coolant I guess, but it could be the small PS leak I have. Also the heat works and blows HOT. Please halp!
So I bought a 1997 328i off my buddy, it did have low coolant but no overheating. I drove it 8 hours shorty after purchase and it had no issues what so ever. I got home and topped it up and the drove it the next morning and the coolant had drained again about 4 inches below COLD line. I changed the oil and it did not look or smell like coolant has contaminated it. I also checked under the oil cap, there was nothing but some hard sludge from oil. The dipstick is straight oil, and I am very confused because I see no coolant leaks what so ever. I do however see a PS leak or possibly coolant leak under the intake manifold/Front of the block. I wiped it and I guess it did smell a little like coolant. Please help me as I am new to bimmers.
Last edited by Spails; 09-24-2018 at 03:14 PM.
Top up again, add some UV dye, and go drive again. Check for leaks and level after.
Last edited by Nanniepoo; 09-24-2018 at 04:40 PM.
There are several coolant lines under the intake manifold. It might be dripping onto the block and evaporating when its hot. Either check with UV dye, or pressurize the system.
Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
Compression test is the best way to go (be sure to read up on how to do it right). PS leak is also common for the formed suction hose.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
There are places difficult to check for coolant leaks, once I had on my E32 the aux water pump located below the heater valves with a crack, the coolant dropped from there onto the hot exhaust and disappeared. Only found the crack when I removed the heater valves and aux water pump.
You can do a coolant pressure test https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-pressure-test
youtube E36 Cooling System Pressure Test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-uIY2xAWhUg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1V81xqNmRjc
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
So I took off the entire Intake manifold and all the components and looked and found a puddle sitting in a freeze plug and some coolant along side the block. I did notice above that freeze plug right under the intake manifold there is a coolant line that runs there, I am not sure if that is where it is leaking as it seemed pretty dry. I took a video of it though, please let me know your thought on it. I cleaned up the puddle and it did not look like it was coming from plug though, no hole or anything. Also anything to refresh while I am doing this would be highly appreciated.
Video link =
Last edited by Spails; 09-25-2018 at 04:42 AM.
Plug the coolant lines you have disconnected and rig up some way to pressure test the system. There are radiator caps with fittings sold for this purpose but I use a combination of hardware store fittings to adapt to a schrader valve to a hose barb I can hose clamp a heater or radiator hose to, then I apply about 8 psi with a bicycle pump to see if it holds pressure or find where coolant is coming out. It should be pretty easy since you have already found the approximate area.
There's a barbed fitting on the cylinder head where a coolant line attaches to run to the throttle body. Could be leaking there. The only other things in that location are the coolant temp sensor on the cylinder head, and the large branched metal coolant pipe. Further back you have the heater hoses and an output flange on the cylinder head that feeds them.
If i were in your position i would replace all the rubber coolant lines.
Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
Last edited by XnWarden; 09-25-2018 at 02:08 PM.
And not with URO brand hoses. They are poor quality. Check out FCPEuro.com they have lifetime warranty, excellent prices, and great customer service.
'94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
'93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
'89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
'04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
'05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
'85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
Dang.. I figured no one answered back on here. I already ordered the coolant hose that goes to the cylinder head from the throttle body. I also ordered oil filter housing gasket, intake manifold gasket, Power steering overhaul, Vanos oil line, and some other lines. Thank you all for the help.
If you subscribe to threads, you chose to get an email when there is a reply which is useful when you are in the middle of fixing something, need info but can't keep stopping to check the site.
I recently bought a 1997 BMW 328i. I drove it 8 hours home and it had no hick ups, no over heating, nothing. When I get home the next day I checked the coolant and it had been about 5 inches below the COLD fill line. So I filled it up and drove it for an hour or so, and by the time I got back it was pretty low again. I did an oil change and it just looked old and brown, nothing milky or anything. I checked under the oil cap and it had nothing but some hard oil sludge. I also checked the dipstick and it is straight oil. I recently took off the intake manifold to check for leaks and I am not sure but I believe the hose going to the cylinder head from the throttle body had a pin hole in it so I replaced it. I am waiting for parts to come in but if anyone could shed some light as to what it is that would be awesome. Thank you all in advance, I hope to hear some responses...
Video link =
Did you pressure test the cooling system as suggested in your other thread? If not that is where you have to start.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
2 threads merged
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I just checked the coolant reservoir now and its 1mm under the COLD line. I have not filled it for about a week and a lot leaked out when I pulled the line that goes to the cylinder head to the throttle body. Perhaps I was an idiot and didn't give it A LOT of time to cool off completely? I checked the coolant level like an hour after it was turned off... Any thoughts on that, lol? I do not believe the head gasket is blown or going as no contamination in either the coolant or the oil. Thank you all for the help.
Best time to check the coolant is when it is cold in the morning before starting it.
'94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
'93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
'89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
'04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
'05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
'85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
A little late, i fear. But the hose at the rear of the head, the one that feeds the heater core. Should be changed as a precaution and is easier to do with the intake manifold off.
Bookmarks