I could really use help with transmission please..

[E83bmw]

I’m aware of the common issues with A drum to valve body, temp sensor harness etc. I’m at a point where I have a week to get this car running. It’s a 2000 740i sport, Transmission was running flawless till I changed filter and oil maybe 6 months ago? Was a aftermarket filter and used correct oil. I’m aware of the necessity for OEM filter for flow now. But not when I replaced it. As of a month 1st and second started to slip when warm. Could catch and engage but I’d have to give very slow throttle. At times it went to failsafe cause traffic was moving and I had to give more throttle and it went to trans fail safe. All other gears it’s perfectly fine. I must note. That if car was sitting for couple of hours. And I got in start it right away I’d have 1st and second including all gears no problem at full throttle. Once I come back down and need 1st and second it slips and goes back to the symptom. I’m hoping it’s not the A drum seal and I can see how that it may be the problem. Valve body can be cracked I suppose, but based on my symptoms has anyone had something similar and found he direct route cause? This is my daily driver and I need it for work and my kids. I do nt have the money for new and rather rebuild myself if it comes to, but I’m hoping it’s worst case a valve body problem or solenoid. Either way I plan on changing filter and oil. Has anyone had anything close to my symptoms and figure it out? Please share your story. Thank you.

[E83bmw]

I did notice that mv1, mv2,mv3 solenoid are gettting 30 ohms whole rest is at 6 ohms.

[Sundaycruzer]

Aftermarket filters destroy stuff. Btw, and always through in some mr. tranny shutter fix. Little red tube. Use factory filter only.

[racer2086]

I had an issue where the car would slip out of gear at a stop. I replaced my filter and fluid (had Valvoline and went to ZF Lifeguard 5). So far so good again. I have 231k miles.

In your case, how many miles? I would NOT drive the car slipping like that. You may ruin the clutch plates. If the A-drum was bad, you would have no forward gears. If the valve body is cracked you could have slipping as you describe.

I would be leery about changing the fluid. If you have such issues already, you may roast the transmission changing the fluid. You surely need a new filter. It's possible the filter is clogged up preventing proper fluid flow and causing pressure issues.

Here's what I would do. Drain the fluid with intention of keeping it. Drop the pan and look inside for particulates. If there are chunks of stuff, then you probably need a rebuild. Pull the filter and check it out. Replace with a new filter. If the fluid is burned, I would replace the fluid. If not burned, depending on miles on the transmission I may just replace the fluid instead of new.

What fluid did you use before anyway? You say "right" fluid, but what is that?

[E83bmw]

Thank you for reply. Car has 250k miles. I don’t know if original transmission but I’m meticulous with maintaince. Fluid was green as expected. I didn’t take apart filter. Magnets had tiny shaving which is metal but no chunks. I used Esso LT 71141 Pentosin Automatic Transmission Fluid

Quick question: I purchased this filter before I came across the suggestion of oem filters. They describe their filter as factory specs for flow etc. would you still
Advise to purchase filter from dealer as oppose to using this one?
https://www.amazon.com/ATP-B-417-Aut...HY8SEHWDAHGJNV

I do have 6quarts if valvoline max life

[kouks]

Pentosin is the correct oil, stick with that, they are the suppliers of the Lifegaurd 5 OEM oil, same stuff.

Get an OEM filter from any BMW parts supplier, may be a little more at dealer, but it will be fine. The filters are now built by ZF and have their brand name.

The Ohm readings on the solenoids are correct, three are different from the others

Your A drum appears to be OK. The cracked VB may be a possibility since everything changes when it gets warm. As someone already stated, you may try a tube of Dr Tranny fluid when you swap the fluid one last time, that may help.

Unfortunately, with 250k miles, you are very lucky to be driving an original trans, most of these give up before 200k miles on the e38. If another fluid and filter swap does not help the situation, even with Dr. Tranny, you most likely need to get professional help. If you just want to try a new VB, go to a JY and see if you can get one for cheap. You'll need one from a Sport transmission, which are a bit hard to find.

If that fails to do anything, I'm afraid the trans has to come out.

Good Luck, keep us updated

[E83bmw]

I dont mind replacing the valve body with a rebuild or refurbished one. It’s my understanding that the bore wear out causing an increase in high pressure causing my problem. I see rebuild valve body’s go for $1k. Are there any reputable places that have. Refurbished including solenoids for half that? I suppose I can rebuild mine but if bore is worn there’s no point. Should I opt out on the valvoline max life?

[Sundaycruzer]

I dont mind replacing the valve body with a rebuild or refurbished one. It’s my understanding that the bore wear out causing an increase in high pressure causing my problem. I see rebuild valve body’s go for $1k. Are there any reputable places that have. Refurbished including solenoids for half that? I suppose I can rebuild mine but if bore is worn there’s no point. Should I opt out on the valvoline max life?

I used amsoil in mine never had an issue, so there is other options for fluid. I think valvoline is one of the lower options. First things first, have you put mister tranny shutter fix in and have you replaced that filter with a stock one?

[racer2086]

The shudder fix is for torque converter problems. He is having gear slipping. It may help that, but we need to determine if this is either a fluid pressure problem or worn clutch plates.

OP, why is your fluid green? Is that just the color of the Esso fluid? Factory fluid is brown like motor oil. I hope the green is not coolant getting in there from the heat exchanger. That would cause lots of problems.

If you had the high pressure issue, the A-drum would have exploded and your car wouldn't move at all. No gears. Zero. You are having a slipping issue that could be a valve body related loss of pressure (crack) or bad fluid and a clogged filter or worn out clutches.

[Sundaycruzer]

The shudder fix is for torque converter problems. He is having gear slipping. It may help that, but we need to determine if this is either a fluid pressure problem or worn clutch plates.

OP, why is your fluid green? Is that just the color of the Esso fluid? Factory fluid is brown like motor oil. I hope the green is not coolant getting in there from the heat exchanger. That would cause lots of problems.

If you had the high pressure issue, the A-drum would have exploded and your car wouldn't move at all. No gears. Zero. You are having a slipping issue that could be a valve body related loss of pressure (crack) or bad fluid and a clogged filter or worn out clutches.

True figuring out hard part problems definitely needs to happen, unfortunately all of that requires a rebuild, you wouldn’t put a valve body on a trans with 200k that’s not smart. Trying a 18$ fix that usually works(if hard parts aren’t poo)then replacing garbage filter to see if it gets better is the best choice for op now. Otherwise just rebuild it.

[E83bmw]

I’ve ordered the filter from dealer and should arrive Thursday so I will put it on. As of now I bought pentosin ATF1. I’ve heard of people putting 1 quart of engine oil (10w40) to increase pressure but I’m assuming it’s a temp fix to exasterbating the problem. I saw dr. Transmission and was going to purchase it but it stated for converter shutter. There were other conditioners like LUBEGUARD for slip. Don’t know if they work or just gimmicks. Bmw wanted $40 a quart for their lt71141 oil lol

[racer2086]

Yes the Dr. Tranny is for converters. They sell a product for the transmission itself. I had both in my transmission before it started slipping. Drained, flushed, and refilled with ZF Lifeguard 5 and back in business so far. I did not add any additives back.

I would start with fresh fluid, see how it does, then put the additives if you need to.

Do you know why the fluid was green?

[E83bmw]

The oil itself had a light brown color to it when fresh. I’m assuming after replacing the filter a couple of months ago and mixing with original fluid which was in converter might have given it a darker tone color. It’s def not coolant mix.

[racer2086]

K just checking. I would definitely replace the filter, top off with fluid and see how it does. My guess is a restricted filter. Do you know the correct procedure to fill the transmission? That'll make a difference in fluid level, which if low could cause slipping.

[HOFFMANN707]

get the valve body rebuilt asap

[E83bmw]

Fill fluid Car Leveled, after warm
Up and running top off. Go through gears top off. Done?

Recommend using dr trans converter or lifeguard atf supplement? Or non at all?

[marclar]

Well, right after I did a full transmission flush (using correct filter) at around 110K miles, the transmission started to slip and lost reverse within 3K miles of the flush (infamous F clutch piston issue). If the transmission has not been serviced regularly, best leave it alone, unless you are ready to rebuild or buy a new one. Almost every transmission service story has a bad ending. These things are best serviced regularly or never serviced at all.

[Mike in CT]

Rebuilt my valve body a few years ago. Not a e38 but an e31, 1997. 5HP24 transmission. At 224 miles doing the second fluid change with Pentosin ATF1, wanted to do preventive maintenance and install with the ZF upgraded main pressure spool valve and swap in a new casting that housed the spool valve in case it was worn. All to prevent pressure spike and A Drum failure in the future.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ght=valve+body

Fortunately I live close to Ericson Industries here in CT, a ZF authorized repair facility and part supplier. Recognized on this forum for years as being very helpful.

Green fluid? Not amber?

[E83bmw]

How is it holding up now?
As if now the obvious approach would be to install a rebuilt unit and be done with it. My situation calls for me to work a temporary fix until spring of next year. It’s possible clutch bands could be worn. As mentioned a drum was culprit I wouldn’t have any forward at all. So hopefully it’s just a clogged filter. But if this doesn’t solve it I’ll just replace with a refurbished valve body and go from there. Are there any aftermarket companies that are recommended in rebuilding valve bodies(repair casting if bore is worn out)? I’m sure ZF are the best bet, but I’m trying to cut cost till rebuild of next year and I’m hoping to cut a little less than $1k for a valve body.

[Mike in CT]

No issues with the valve body.

Might want to at least check you options with these folks: https://zftranspart.pinnaclecart.com/index.php?p=home

Check on the price if you send them yours. There is also the Sonnix path involving reaming the bore and fitting their larger diameter spool valave.

https://www.sonnax.com/parts/1767-ov...ator-valve-kit

If your fluid was green that could be the problem.

And make sure the transmission is filled such that the fluid comes out the fill port at the specified fluid temperature range.

[E83bmw]

I used this oil previously(15k miles ago)
I still have old quarts that were untouched or tamperd and the color is light brown Like engine oil. I’m aware that atf oil for the most part is red. Any reason why it would be light brown? This is the old oil I used before. The new pentosin that I have is red.
https://i.imgur.com/FAQRQ8b.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HoDvSXm.jpg

[Mike in CT]

I believe you have the Pentosin ATF1 LV (red) and not Pentosin ATF1 (amber). Know nothing about the LV version. I would stick with the ATF1.

[E83bmw]

I put the pentosin(red) and it’s as if before. Code for incorrect gear ratio 2nd and 3rd came. Went into transfail. Still slips but goes to 80mph if light on pedal till 3rd. 🙁

[E83bmw]

After some research it looks like the atf1 is the correct as opposed to the aft1 LV. I didn’t differentiate the LV for whatever reason. I will now drain the pentosin ATF1 LV and refill with ATF1. I doubt it will make much difference but at this point what else have I got to
Lose. I’m trying to see the difference between the pentosin ATF1 LV VS Pentosin ATF1. Haven’t seen any informative articles. Any idea?

[E83bmw]

It seems it shouldn’t make much of a difference seeing as LV is low viscosity and not much on top of a higher boiling point.
Pentosin atf1 LV
http://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentosin_ATF1LV.pdf

Pentosin atf1
http://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentosin_ATF1.pdf