I’m thinking about purchasing this E34

[Sean2005]

Its a 1990 with 151k original miles. The seller says that it runs/drives fine, all windows work but the AC is out. As you can see from the pics it does have some cosmetic issues that will need to be addressed. He has it listed for $1k but I plan on negotiating for a cheaper price after I look over it. I was thinking $750-800 range. What are some issues that I should be looking for? Will the AC overhaul be worth it?

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[theBMWbeast]

What model is the car? Auto or manual? What do you want this car to be? Commuter, fun car, etc. The biggest things you should be looking out for depend on the various engines these cars came equipped with, and their corresponding transmission.

Next I would say are the various shakes, shivers, and rattles you may encounter. How does it ride, how does it stop, normal wear and tear stuff. Rust in the lower door panels, leaky sunroof seals. Electrical gremlins, does it hesitate, sputter, stop, stall. It’s a sub 1k car, understand the territory this usually occupies. Sometimes “runs fine” means that it runs, and that is about it. So when you get there you’ll get a better grasp of the scope of work you are looking at. The cosmetic issues all seem fixable, easy to replace panels and such.

All in all, with a little more detail we can probably help hone in on what specifics you would be looking for (M20 timing belt replaced? M30 valve adjustment, correct oil used, oil light goes out quickly etc). Beyond that I personally don’t know of a specific Achilles heel that is gonna make or break a run of the mill e34. But of course that isn’t to say there aren’t e34 specific problems like the upper control arms, the aforementioned rust issues, wiring/module faults etc. Hopefully my rambling helps you out some.

[Sean2005]

Thanks for the reply. Its a 525i Auto. I want it to be a commuter/fun car that I can drive to work somedays and enjoy on the weekends.

[Red Shirt KRT]

Depending on shape/mileage unless it's really clean other than the noted issues I wouldn't pay more than 750.

There are so many of these cars out there especially the less desirable autos.

I sold my really rusty 525im with 200k+ miles and a battery drain for like 1k about 3 years ago.

[theBMWbeast]

1990 525i mean m20, which means the most important thing is to have a verified record of when the timing belt was changed. Both mileage and years since last change are factors here, and for specific numbers I suggest you look it up. I’m actually in the same boat as you, with an 89 525i Auto, which I bought for $400 simply to get the interior from, and now that my 535i is down for an extended period of time, is my DD. Here is what I’ve learned:

1.Timing belt, as said before. This turns a cheap and disposable car into no more than scrap value if it breaks on you.
2. Condition of the auto tranny. Are the shifts smooth, does it slip? Mine kicks me with every darn shift, but it works, and I think past a certain point you do more harm changing the fluid than good. YMMV
3. Know what you are getting into. The m20 is a dog, and making it move a ~3400lb e34 is cruel. The auto doesn’t help this. The car is slow, however it keeps up with modern traffic just fine, although you will find if someone doesn’t want you to get in front of them, you probably aren’t. Also gas mileage kinda sucks for the lack of performance, especially the way they are geared to make up for the lackluster power.
4. The flip side to that is an m20 car isn’t as bad as people say. I have a lot of fun driving mine, but it’s about how you view the car. You have to momentum drive the m20 if you wanna get somewhere quick, and be kind to the auto box. Don’t rev the car in neutral, you’ll blow your transmission in no time. No rapid shifts from reverse to drive, etc. Doing this means you get to enjoy it when it kicks down at just the right speed, and you feel actual acceleration for once. So you can have a very conservative fun.
5. My view on the car may be skewed, pretty sure I have a rust hole in my exhaust, because the car drones at anything above 500rpm, and idles like a motorcycle. But man is it fun in tunnels. That’s the irrational joy you can get from cheap cars.

All in all, it’s a relatively low mileage car. But still, look at how the tranny operates, and make sure you have a record of the timing belt change; make sure the neutral safety switch isn’t corroded, and if a valve adjustment has been done wouldnt hurt either. Everything else is cursory. My starter is going out, I hit it with a breaker bar when it doesn’t want to comply. I also have a full set of tools and a spare in the trunk,but that’s just an idea of my mentality towards my car. And that’s my only problem that has stopped me from getting from point a to point b. It’s got a lot more problems, so you’ve got to figure out what bugs you and what doesn’t. If you are leaning towards more of a fun car/ something that you aren’t gonna hate taking to work, my 535i with a 5 speed is a blast to drive, and looks good doing it. However I suspect a manual 525i with an m50 would be just as fun, albeit not as fast, and actually get gas mileage that doesn’t measure in gallons per mile. Or if you aren’t looking to shift gears yourself, get a 540i and cruise in the smooth luxury bmw intended. But then your looking at maintenance costs, and other fun stuff. Goodluck!

[ross1]

I think this one still has a dipstick for the trans oil. Have a look and run if it's burnt. The trans O/haul will cost more than the car will be worth.
Timing belt service on M20 is a must do, also valve adjustment.
Aside those the drivetrain is pretty much bullet proof.
expect worn suspension and to replace cooling system parts too.
Yes, underpowered but fine once rolling along. If you like to move swiftly through city traffic forget this combination. Highway commute? you'll be fine.