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Thread: Shattered Timing Chain guides help w/story

  1. #1
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    Shattered Timing Chain guides help w/story

    Hello All,
    I recently decided to pick up a 99 m3 to accompany my 03, Being a great diyer, when I heard it had a ticking issue and I could get it cheap I jumped on it . He sent me a video and it sounded exactly like the oil pump nut or pump itself. So I bought it and trailered it home, and last weekend I spent a couple hours pulling the subframe out and i loosened a couple pan bolts and I saw that the oil pump shaft had broken. So i bought an upgraded oil pump shaft with rotor pressed on by achilles motorsports. Then today I pulled the oil pan off and found a BUNCH of timing chain guide chunks, I presume there is very little left actually on the chain. So I say that Im gonna put it all back together with the new shaft and get at the chain from the top because I am working on this in my mom's driveway (im 19). but then I realize that I have a cheapy LASO pump in and that my rotor wont fit . So now I am writing on here for some advice.

    Does anyone have a good diy on doing the timing chain guides? Ive heard you dont have to pull the head, is this true? can I get at the guides by pulling the radiator and all accesories and oulling the timing cover?

    any input is appreciated, im pretty frustrated at this point!!

    thanks,
    -Ben

  2. #2
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    I think you can get it over the post without removing the head, but I haven't personally done it. I would leave the oil pan off until after you get the front timing cover back on, because the timing cover will be pinched between the pan and head.
    '94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
    '93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
    '04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
    '05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k

  3. #3
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    Good point! Ill leave the pan off until I can get the timing chain cover off, So does anyone have a diy on pulling the cover? are there bolts holding it from under the vanos cover? what happens with the water pump?

    thanks again

  4. #4
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    Big job. Pull the front cover. To do that, the crank damper and nut come off. Water pump can come out with cover if toomnor be removed first. Serious torque on crank damper. Beware a couple of bolts go into the cover from the pan and I think a couple from the head but can’t remember for sure on the head— they are hidden/recessed and covered with oil if they are. You may have to pull the valve cover and vanos and retime the cams. If you were just replacing a guide it wound he a lot easier than pulling the chain. There are 3 chains total I think. Download the Bentley manual if the free pdf is still linked at m3forum.net.

  5. #5
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    thank you pbonsalb, Only a few more questions, what is the toomnor? also I only planned on doing the guides, it only has 140k so id assume the chains are alright, right?

    thanks guys, super helpful

  6. #6
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    That’s my typing on phone inventing a word. If not enough room it can be removed first is what I meant to write. You’ll see when you get in there. Chains aren’t usually a problem on these motors but if you lost the oil pump you have serious damage. I’d probably pull a few rod bearings unless you are confident there was no damage. If you are just doing guides pull the pan and front cover. Just remember there are bolts from the bottom and I think the top, not just the ones you see around the sides.

    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_6074
    Last edited by pbonsalb; 09-20-2018 at 09:58 PM.

  7. #7
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    A broken oil pump or shaft is grounds for a full tear down. + your seeing guide pieces. Otherwise your just adding a little time to a catastrophic failure.
    Last edited by 66 6; 09-21-2018 at 08:33 AM. Reason: i kant spel

  8. #8
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    Yes there are some bolts from the top, 3 I think. Browse the realoem pictures. Also when reinstalling those bolts from the top be careful not to over tighten them. Stock torque spec is too much, they just need to be snug.
    '94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
    '93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
    '04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
    '05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k

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