To-do list while the engine/transmission are out?

[make it easy]

Good day gentlemen!

The summer is over and my 1994 325ic convertible is on the ramps, waiting for the auto>manual swap. Here in Canada our winters are long and so I am not in a rush to finish the job and get the car on the road as soon as possible. Instead, I'd like to take it easy and enjoy the project at my own pace. I haven't driven this car for about 3 years, since I bought it. But the engine was performing really well when I bought it (and the seller is my colleague who I know and trust, very honest person).

The plan is to undo the front end and remove the engine together with the transmission, then swap the transmissions, then install everything in reverse. While the engine is out, I will have exclusive access to all hard to reach places on the engine as well as the manual transmission.

I want to ask you to help me compile the list of jobs/mods(?) I should perform and seals I should replace while the engine and the manual transmission are out on the stand.

So far I got only these three items on my list:

1. Manual transmission shift detent pins problem: https://webspace.ringling.edu/~dplas...hift_pins.html
2. Replace Rear Crank Seal: https://youtu.be/kaM8RgUWmKM?t=16m45s
3. Replace Pilot Bearing.

Please me expand it. Thank you!

[Eric93se]

Early e36's have a plastic coolant Fitting at the back of the head that you can upgradeable to aluminum. This thing can leak and it's hard to get to.

Here's a link , don't forget the gasket. Use realoem.com for diagrams and part numbers.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11121717432/

[Eric93se]

Would be a good idea to upgrade the power steering pulley to aluminum as well. The water pump pulley can be done too but is not as important as the other two.

[gdavid]

I will assume you are putting in a new clutch.

Inspect transmission input and output shafts seals for replacement. Might be best to just replace them, output is more likely to be bad. If the back of the transmission is a mess the output seal is bad.

Clutch fork pivot pin

Transmission and engine mounts

Secure the transmission tunnel insulation blanket which is probably sagging

New center support bearing

New Guido

Remember to mark the drive shaft halve splines before you tack it apart so you can keep it balanced when it is reassembled.

Clutch hydraulic line

[ameld608]

I am in the process of doing (almost) the same thing! I plan to do most easy seals on the motor. If you have access to an engine stand, I would recommend doing the oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, (maybe) rear main, and getting all of your heater hoses refreshed. That's all I can think of for now but will use this thread for info, too!

[Eric93se]

If you do pull the oil pan, then definitely secure the oil pump nut. Optionally upgrade to the Z3 oil pick up tube.

Also optionally you can run a thin bead of RTV silicone along the front timing cover seal . just be sure to fully de-grease and go all the way to the bottom of the seam. I recently did the bottom 3-4 inches to solve a leak on mine.

[make it easy]

Thank you guys, everything's noted and I will be updating the list in the OP as new items pour in! Much appreciated and keep 'em coming!

[make it easy]

Early e36's have a plastic coolant Fitting at the back of the head that you can upgradeable to aluminum. This thing can leak and it's hard to get to.

Here's a link , don't forget the gasket. Use realoem.com for diagrams and part numbers.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11121717432/

I just wanted to confirm - the link and the PN points to the Flange for the fuel line, not cooling. Wanted to make sure I was looking at the right part. Thx!

[Eric93se]

They must have some stupid people working at ECS lol. No, it's for the cooling system.

Description: Water Hose Flange - Back of Cylinder Head

The part number for the gasket is:
11121738963

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_6082

[gc325is]

Heater control valves.