I know there is a sticky and a bunch of threads on this subject. I want a nice, comfortable, quiet ride. I still drive the car a couple days a week and harsh urethane bushings would turn me off to the point that wouldn't drive it. However, I've been kicking around the idea of turning it into a Lemons car. So with that in mind, I want something very comfortable, quiet, etc. and I don't want to be that guy showing up to Lemons BS judging with flashy race parts everywhere but if there are parts I can install now that might help on the track 40k miles down the road???
Thanks.
The outer control arm joints in stock configuration on a non M have a ball joint in the upper and a bushing in the lower. M cars had ball joints installed in both upper and lower. That is a stock drop in replacement with no downside. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...46-33326775551
RTAB bushings are commonly worn out, either stock ones with RTAB limiter shims or poly ones are good. They are hard to see when installed so likely not noticeable. Maybe some vendor offers black ones for discretion? Grease them thoroughly to prevent squeaking.
I solid mounted my rear sub frame with aluminum "bushings" it's not that loud but is noticeable to hear the differential. I would not recommend solid mounting the sub frame AND solid differential bushings.
If you are removing the rear sub frame that is a good time to weld in the BMW reinforcements for the sub frame mounting and get AKG RTAB pocket reinforcement plates. Do it all at once and then get it aligned.
Last edited by jc43089; 09-18-2018 at 11:55 AM.
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I do not understand this thread at all.
You want a DD....
...lemons car?
quiet DD =/= lemons
Just go street poly everywhere, they're not that obnoxious and will live, in theory, a bit better if you go lemons.
...I'm building a lemons E36 slowly, and it's getting whatever I have lying around, it'll be loud, rough, bouncy, and shitty - not something I'd ever DD...
If the car had no rust I wouldn't consider it for Lemons. It's a New England car with rust starting at rear wheel arches, bottom/back of front quarter panels, down by rockers and hockey pucks, etc.
Yes, I plan to drop everything behind the rear main seal. It needs a clutch, rear subframe reinforcements and I assume any rubber rear of the transmission will also be shot.
I want to do some moderate maintenance on the car now and then drive it from 360k up to 400k-ish. That should put enough dirt and grime back on the car that I won't look like a total jerk showing up to Lemons with it.
Why do you say street poly will live "in theory" a bit better? New stock rubber should last just as long as street poly. I'm not talking about DD'ing this car WHILE I build it out for lemons. I want it to be comfortable and a nice, quiet DD. And then we'll gut it and cage it. It should be fine. We are old, everyone in the group has owned either a spec miata or e30. We all want to keep the AC, everyone knows how to wrench and build a track car, etc. Lemons is supposed to be fun and none of us think a loud, rough, bouncy and shitty ride is fun. Been there, done that. Not this time.
In my experience rubber bonded to sleeves fails when under higher loads quicker than a poly with a lubicated sleeve. Rubber motion create friction and heat and leads to early failures. Poly, when lubricated as directed, doesn't have this issue and should live up better - of course this is only when you're loading that bushing at a higher rate/higher frequency than street driving.
Hope that makes some sense.
OEM would be fine sure. It's also a bigger PITA to swap but would be better for your 40k you're putting on it first.
I do think showing up to lemons with a nice riding, clean E36 will get you a lot of penalty laps...at least put an S10 body on it or something, lol.
He meant poly will live up to abuse better. The stock rubber wears out quickly if you start dogging on it. Lemons is like the frankenstein car demolition derby graveyard. The car Will be more fun if kept in proper shape imo
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