E36 not starting

[BimmerJay11]

​E36 not starting

Hi all

I have had my E36 325TD for around 6 months without any problems. Then a month ago now it all of a sudden did not start. After waiting for 30 minutes it all of a sudden started. This has been going on for a while now and it’s driving me crazy. It seems to be every time I’ve driven for a bit that it just doesn’t want to start until cold again. It seems to be more often than not a problem when the car is warm, but sometimes also when cold.

When the problem occurs:
I turn the key and nothing happens, no crank no nothing. Dashboard doesn’t light up however radio turns on.

Battery is fine and starter is fine.

Have asked everyone I know and looked at alot of threads, but haven’t found any solution.

My car is from 94/1.

Appreciate any help

[MarcoZandrini]

How do you know the starter is fine? Do you have a second key? If you do, try it.

I’d scan the engine computer for codes.

[BimmerJay11]

I have a second key and it's the same problem.

Rolling start doesn't work when problem occurs and there is electricity getting to the starter..

Thanks

[shogun]

check the fusible link in the trunk close to the battery https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...t=fusible+link

[MauiM3Mania]

Moved from General BMW Discussion sub-forum.

[XnWarden]

Sounds like a grounding issue to me.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

[BimmerJay11]

thank you will take a look

[BimmerJay11]

Sounds like a grounding issue to me.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Would that be engine to chassis cable?

[Eric93se]

Sounds like ignition switch to me. Start position doesn't work but accessory position does.

[BimmerJay11]

Sounds like ignition switch to me. Start position doesn't work but accessory position does.

Have thought of this, have tried moving the wires around a bit going in to the ignition switch but doesn't change anything.. And the fact that it tends not to work when the car is warm.. hmmm not sure :/

[E36328Coupe]

Have thought of this, have tried moving the wires around a bit going in to the ignition switch but doesn't change anything.. And the fact that it tends not to work when the car is warm.. hmmm not sure :/

Your dash doesn't light up and the engine doesn't start


Radio is position one accessory
Dash and ignition lights are position two - run

Starter cranks at position three


So come on do the basics, what is common to dash not lighting up and not cranking - switch internals

The very basic check would be to se if another ignition run position system such as heater, that would not be working in position 2 works when dash does not to show position 2 on switch works


This is a basic get a multimeter and follow the problem type issue where even jumping the wires may be applicable


Or you could have a playing up immobiliser

[Eric93se]

Wiggling wires is not how one tests a switch.

But I agree the ground connections in the engine bay should be removed a d cleaned .

[E36328Coupe]

Wiggling wires is not how one tests a switch.

But I agree the ground connections in the engine bay should be removed a d cleaned .

How are the grounds in the engine bay stopping the dash lighting up? It has it's own grounds

[Eric93se]

How are the grounds in the engine bay stopping the dash lighting up? It has it's own grounds

Unrelated, someone else mentioned grounds and I was agreeing that t hey should be checked and cleaned

[BimmerJay11]

Checked fusible link, all the ground cables I could fined and they are all fine.. Probably is the ignition switch.. Going to take it apart

[E36328Coupe]

Unrelated, someone else mentioned grounds and I was agreeing that t hey should be checked and cleaned

And my point was with no common earth connection between them it was futile and pointless

- - - Updated - - -

Checked fusible link, all the ground cables I could fined and they are all fine.. Probably is the ignition switch.. Going to take it apart

Back to Post 11
You should not be pulling it to pieces until you have checked it's function preferably with a multimeter, maybe with a test lamp or lgically also checking if any other ignition live circuit is working, such as dip beam (not the side lights).


Doing random things with no logic and test methodology is a recipe for needless work, spending or trouble