Advice on 540i clutch

[summitp]

Just pulled my transmission out of the car for replacement, it grinds badly going into first and 3rd. So I grabbed a low mileage m5 unit from the guys over at m5board.
The clutch appears to be a stock sachs 265mm item. Not a self adjusting item thankfully. Question, given the condition of the disc, pressure plate and flywheel, do I just reinstall this one? Or do I put a new one in. Disc appears to still have some meat on it. I'm not averse to a little surface prep on the flywheel and pressure plate with a scotch pad or some 800 grit paper. What say the collective? I don't think I have any issues behind the flywheery, back of flywheel looks dry, and car doesn't have any coolant leaks, just throw the stuff back on with a new throw out bearing and call it good? Money is a bit of an issue, so like to keep it simple if possible. Yeah I know, shouldn't have bought a Bmw blah blah, just don't Want to throw parts at it that it doesn't need. Need to buy the special tool to remove the flywheel to get any deeper...

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[Mykk]

I had a Luk clutch that did the same thing to a flywheel & pressure plate (E34 540i/6 265mm) after something like 15k miles. It looks identical to that clutch disc. The hot spots were deep and wouldn't clean up with a mild 3m roloc & air die grinder. Both flywheel and pressure plate will need a resurface at a machine shop. I had successfully removed the flywheel torqs bolts with a standard torqs long driver and air impact. But then I installed a LW flywheel that used standard 6 point bolts and didn't need to drive them back on with the torqs

[summitp]

Doesn't sound like people have a lot of luck getting the dmf resurfaced at machine shops, especially if they are along in miles, as they might have a little play in them, so not going to try that.

After a bit of research on other forums, vette, etc, seems like I have a good shot at cleaning up the flywheel surface. I am going to pull it off the car, and hit it with my da sander and 180 grit paper. Apparently you want to use a da or something to not have a centered sanding action that can take off too much material in any one spot. Some of the 3 series guys on this forum have done it with good results on DMF. I'll probably run the shop vac alongside the sander to minimize grit getting into the fw, and then blast the sucker with LOTS of compressed air. I think I'll test my technique on the pressure plate just for practice to see how it looks so I don't "learn" on the flywheel. Looks like rock auto has the 265mm clutch kit from LUK for around $300.

[summitp]

ordered up a 265mm LUK clutch kit with the friction disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing, and will follow up after I get the flywheel off (ordered tool) and clean it up. Also going to redo the pilot bearing, main seal, and the block coolant seal on the back as well. Might as well do it all since the parts aren't too expensive.
Bunch of other goodies coming in as well, new slave cylinder, chain tensioner, oil pan seal, oil level sender o ring, spark plugs, oil change, etc etc.. give er a tune up. I just picked this car up a month ago pretty cheap, and recently completed a full body repaint. It is a genuine 1995 6 speed manual car with sport package. So, worth fixing up in my opinion.