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Thread: E46 M3 Mods

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    2005 M3 ZCP

    E46 M3 Mods

    Hello,

    I recently picked up an 05 manual competition package M3 with 115k miles on it. I'm interested in doing some mods, but do not want to sacrifice driveability/reliability. Originally I was thinking supercharging as it's much safer and simpler than turbo charging. After talking to more people I'm maybe leaning towards keeping the engine naturally aspirated and doing bolt on/software mods instead. The car currently has an intake, short shifter and coilovers.

    So first question, I do not know a ton about lightweight fly wheels/clutches, but does this seem like a solid thing to do to simply plant more of the power to the wheels?

    Any specific recommended mods that people would support?

    Any information is appreciated.

    Thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    USA
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    E21, E46
    I would recommend driving it for a few months before committing to any upgrades. See how the car performs and if any maintenance is due because of worn parts.

    Then start by ensuring it is opened up for airways... k&n filters, headers, exhaust etc.

    There is a lot of upside with a stage two supercharger however ensure the car is breathing very well first.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    Maryland
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    865
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    2006 Estoril Blue/Cin M3
    Have you bulletproofed the VANOS and reinforced the subframe mounts yet?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    2005 M3 ZCP
    Subframe is pristine, previous owners did not abuse the car at all. Having Vanos, Rod Bearing Service and Valve Adjustment done this week.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Flywheel/clutch options not something you think you'd recommend?

    - - - Updated - - -

    The car has a Gruppe M Intake currently, haven't touched exhaust or headers. It seems like headers/exhaust is a lot of $$ for minimal gain. $2-4k for maybe 10-20hp seems like theres more valuable mods.

    I don't know a ton about supercharging, what makes the difference between Stages?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
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    Arizona/New Mexico, USA
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    2001 M3, 1967 Cougar
    First off, if the clutch delay valve hasn't been removed, remove it. It's an easy mod that doesn't cost anything and helps driveability a pretty good amount.

    Pristine or not, subframe mounts need reinforced before you start going for more power. Get the plates welded in and follow that up with the BMW structural foam (which you can do yourself). It'll be pricey due to labor but you'll never have to worry about it again.

    Servicing VANOS may be enough but if you want to make it really worry free, get a kit from Dr. VANOS. Again, pricey, but peace of mind can be nice.

    Depending on how much power you go for, a stronger clutch is warranted. A lightweight flywheel, however, is up to your preference. It's a bit of a catch 22. The lighter weight means faster RPM spin up for better off the line acceleration. However, less weight means less mass to help the engine accelerate at higher speeds. They also can chatter, which some people hate while others don't care.

    If you do end up boosting the car, headers can definitely be worth it. While headers may not provide amazing gains on an NA car, the extra breathing can help a decent bit when running boost. (And honestly, as far as NA mods go, there's not a whole lot of power to be gained anyway. So really, "more valuable mods" as it pertains to power, at least, aren't much of a thing.) Some supercharger kits even include headers. The more air you pump through the engine, the better it needs to breathe. Also, it really helps to bring out the deeper notes of the M3s very muted exhaust. Most headers are catless so you'll need to install cats Euro style in the Section 1 exhaust piping.

    There's not much to be gained from the exhaust itself other than a much nicer sounding note and more volume. Both of which the M3 needs, in my opinion. The only performance gain comes from the lighter weight.

    Most supercharger kits are bolt-ons. Install is relatively simple and tunes are provided. "Stages" usually refer to different levels of power provided by the kit. The higher the stage the more power it provides. The stages typically include different parts - different sized pulley for the charger, different sized intercoolers (or none at all), etc.

    (I have no experience with boosting the s54 so take the following with a grain of salt as this is mostly from what I've read from others) Keep in mind that whenever you increase the power output, you inherently decrease reliability. More power will mean more strain on the parts. The s54 does take to supercharging pretty well, though. Just keep in mind its limitations and don't drive it at 11/10s every day and it'll probably be fine. The assumed safe limit of the s54 block is about 550hp. There are kits that will reach past this number. Some include stronger internals as a result. The supercharger will also help keep the linear powerband that the s54 is known for, thereby maintaining driveability.

    All that said, before you go for big power, go for big brakes. For safety's sake, it's generally best to make sure you can stop reliably from high speed before you hit high speed using high power. Along with the bigger brakes, get bigger wheels so you can fit wider tires. The more power you make, the more traction you'll want. 18x10s all around with spacers and a stud kit work pretty well on the e46. The more traction you have, the more you can get out of your brakes.

    I'll reinforce the notion of driving it for a while and making sure maintenance is up to snuff. Get a good feel for the car and any things you may want to change. You're probably due for new bushings almost everywhere plus a tranny and diff oil change (no such thing as a "lifetime fluid", whatever BMW claims). The coilovers probably came with new, upgraded rear shock mounts but they may be worth checking to make sure as the stock ones fail rather frequently (every 60k or so). If your strut towers haven't mushroomed at all, install the reinforcement plates beneath it to make sure it doesn't happen in the future. A strut bar can also help. If you are running the stock fuel pump, pick up a new one as it's only a matter of time till you need it. To save on cash, you can buy a Walbro pump with an adapter kit. It's less than half the cost for a better pump. If you get a Radium Engineering kit, be mindful of the spade connectors. The ones they provide aren't a proper fit causing arcing and eventual melting of the wire (Radium denies this but there are a number of reported cases, all the same cause and effect). This will leave you stranded, as it did me. They are very good kits, otherwise. Just make sure that the connection is strong. Better yet, supply your own connectors.

    TLDR; reinforce rear subframe mounts and do maintenance before anything else. Follow that up with big brakes (if boosting, CSL style brakes are fine otherwise) and wider wheels/tires. Then go for boost (if that's your plan) or power mods. If you stick N/A, get headers and a tune. Not much else to do. Nothing fun about reinforcements or maintenance, but they are necessary.
    Last edited by topher339; 09-23-2018 at 09:16 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Phoenix, AZ
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    2005 M3 ZCP
    Thank you for the input, it's much appreciated. I actually just got off the phone with the mechanic and they just asked if I'd like them to pull the clutch delay valve while they're right there.

    Rod bearings and Vanos by Dr. Vanos are being done as we speak. I think I will end up keeping it NA and maybe going CSL intake and headers once I get the brakes all squared away.

    Thanks Again.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    2001 M3, 1967 Cougar
    Good stuff. Enjoy the car.

  8. #8
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    98 328i 10 328i X wagon
    Do you know what cost of rod bearing service is?

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