Hi all,
Been a while since I've posted, but thought I'd share a bit of a success story. Ever since I bought my car with about 99k miles on it (now at 126k), my clutch pedal has been less than smooth and has had a fair amount of side to side wobble. I knew about replacing the clutch pedal bushings, but somehow never got around to it. Finally, I decided enough was enough so I ordered a new BMW clutch pedal and BMW pedal bushings from Pelican. Parts used:
Pedal Bushing, Brand: Genuine BMW
Part #: 35-21-1-158-290-M9
$3.50 Qty: 2
Total: $7.00
Clutch Pedal Lever, Brand: Genuine BMW
Part #: 35-31-1-158-659-M9
$29.25 Qty: 1
Total: $29.25
The job was a royal PITA. I despise working inverted in tight spaces. Luckily I already had my driver's seat out to replace the seat recline gear, so I had more space to lay down. But it was still a nauseating, frustrating job. I followed this video and the method worked fine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oFud4xKXIk
The results are well worth it though. The clutch is so smooth now. Just thought I'd share for those not familiar with this job.
1998 Titanium/Dove M3/4/5
2020 Toyota 4Runner
It's way more fun to do while standing on your head (with the seat in). Also, probably a good idea to do the brake light switch under the brake pedal at the same time.
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
Excellent point about the brake light switch. You actually need to remove it's bracket to get access. Luckily (or unluckily?) mine was replaced about 2 years ago.
Also, I had no idea that the clutch pedal actually has TWO switches that it acts on. One is depressed when the clutch is released, and one is depressed when the clutch is fully depressed. I assume one is for the cruise control disconnect and one for the starter disconnect.
Last edited by RightYouAreKen; 09-17-2018 at 10:18 AM.
1998 Titanium/Dove M3/4/5
2020 Toyota 4Runner
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