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Thread: Interior Light does not go on when either door is opened

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    Cape Coral, Florida, USA
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    My Cars
    1999 BMW Z3 2.3

    Interior Light does not go on when either door is opened

    Vehicle - 1999 Z3 Roadster. The Interior light on the inside header on top of windshield has 3 positions; Light on always, Light only on when door is opened and Light always off. The interior light no longer goes on when either door is open. The other two positions operate properly. Before I start replacing the light assembly or the switches, I'd appreciate if anyone else has had this issue and a potential fix. I know there is a switch built into the door latch, but not sure if that switch applies to the Z3 as I know this same type of system is carry over from other Bimmers. Can't really find any other switch that controls interior light going on when door is opened. Also, odd that both doors suddenly stopped operating light at the same time . Thanks for any suggestions.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    Louisville, KY
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    1997 BMW Z3 1.9L 5MT
    Quote Originally Posted by Florida Z3 View Post
    ... I know there is a switch built into the door latch... odd that both doors suddenly stopped operating light at the same time...
    More likely that the overhead switch stopped working in that position.
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/61318407738/
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Blairstown, NJ, USA
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    1998 M Roadster
    Try pushing both door latch buttons all the way in. On occasion, when my interior lights time out, they don't come back on. I will push the driver's door latch button in and they work again. I should add that the button has worn down and is currently built up with some tape so that it works. A new latch is waiting to be installed.
    Wayne

    1998 M Roadster
    1994 Honda ST1100--sold
    2017 Yamaha FJR1300ES

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    UK
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    1998 Z3 1.9 5 speed
    I had this problem and it was down to corrosion in a connector that sits behind the a-post trim, that provides power to the light. No idea why, as the car doesn't leak, but maybe something from the car's past.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by rasmuw View Post
    Try pushing both door latch buttons all the way in. On occasion, when my interior lights time out, they don't come back on. I will push the driver's door latch button in and they work again. I should add that the button has worn down and is currently built up with some tape so that it works. A new latch is waiting to be installed.
    It would be odd for both of the OP's door switches to suddenly not work at the same time, but it is a good suggestion to look at them.

    When the plastic tube over the latch rod wears down, it affects latching. For latching problems, people wrap tape around the rod, or slip a piece of slit plastic tubing over it:
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...1#post27825111

    Perhaps latching can also affect how the door pushes on the switch behind the rod. Still, closing the door depresses the switch which turns the interior light off, while the OP's problem would be the open door not releasing the switch which needs to spring out to turn the light on. As if the switch were stuck closed. Both switches.

    If the door strike/switch(es) needs replacing, here's a DIY:
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post25408361
    Last edited by Vintage42; 09-17-2018 at 12:24 PM.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Blairstown, NJ, USA
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    1998 M Roadster
    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage42 View Post
    Perhaps latching can also affect how the door pushes on the switch behind the rod. Still, closing the door depresses the switch which turns the interior light off, while the OP's problem would be the open door not releasing the switch which needs to spring out to turn the light on. As if the switch were stuck closed. Both switches.

    If the door strike/switch(es) needs replacing, here's a DIY:
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post25408361
    Thanks for the good link to the replacement of the door striker. It is somewhat more simple than another I've seen. I will refer to it when replacing the part.

    I have already placed some slit tube on the latch rod. It helped, but not enough to depress the switch reliably. Going over a bump will cause the lights to come on. The problem is that the plastic switch is worn down, as one would expect to happen when the metal part on the door continually rubs against the switch. Two small pieces of gaff tape have been enough to build the switch up temporarily, until it gets so hot outside that they peel off.

    I agree that it is unlikely that both switches are stuck closed. When I have had an intermittent problem (2-3 times in two years) with the lights coming on, depressing the driver's door switch, which is not stuck in, has been the fix. I have not investigated further since I think the problem will go away with a new striker assembly.

    This all makes me wonder what was wrong with the apparently antiquated American system of a plunger switch that worked independently of the latch. It wouldn't wear down, and if the switch had an electrical problem, it was easily repaired.
    Wayne

    1998 M Roadster
    1994 Honda ST1100--sold
    2017 Yamaha FJR1300ES

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    Cape Coral, Florida, USA
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    1999 BMW Z3 2.3
    Vintage 42. thanks for your suggestions. I'll check it out on my Z. Appreciate the reply.

    Florida Z3

    - - - Updated - - -

    RASMUW, Thanks for the tips. I'll also check these out.

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