Okay so I'm back with another issue I know...
So my e39 starts fine in the morning but if the the car is warm at all it takes a long time to start. If I've just shut the car off and it's been about 20minutes itll start in about a second or two but still struggles a bit. If the car has been sitting for an hour or two itll take upward of 5seconds and sometimes I have to flutter the gas to get it running. I'm not sure if fluttering the gas pedle is actually what helps it start or not. And if the car sits in the sun the the car will stay heat soaked for upwards of 5 hours sometimes. Thank you for any and all help. 2000 bmw 528i 190xxx on the chassis and 120xxx on the engine transmission and everything else for a manual swap.
Also on a side note to avoid another post. I was told to get my reverse lights back after my manual swap all I needed was a speedometer reprogram(I swapped engine harness to keep transmission plugged in) so if I have the speedometer from the manual car couldn't I just swap the speedometer over to get my reverse lights back?
Have you checked fuel pressure?
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
I'd suspect a bad engine coolant temp sensor, or a bad MAF that's reading the wrong intake air temp, or a large intake system leak.
Do you happen to have a good BMW scan tool, which gives live data? If so, you can check the first two. For the third, you'll need a smoke machine.
I'm not sure why your reverse light circuit runs through the instrument cluster, but I see it does. I cannot find the origin of the signal on an automatic car on the wiring diagrams - I just keep getting a manual car, even when it wasn't available in that year. I CAN tell you that if you swap the cluster from another car, you will forever have a tamper dot next to the mileage, and coding errors. I'm not sure why you'd leave the automatic transmission computer plugged in? What gear does it think it's in?
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
I do have a good scan tool I will run some live data. It does sound like I have a large vacuum leak sometimes but I haven't seen anything. I'll investigate closer.
I dont have the automatic transmission computer plugged in anymore I removed it, it doesnt show like it's in any gear. And I will just have it taken for a recode then. I'm trying to get rid of dash lights not gain new ones.
I meant I swapped the manual wiring harness so the manual gear box was plugged into the wiring harness instead of having the 8pin automatic transmission plug zip tied somewhere.
What am I looking for on the live data? Sorry I haven't played with live data much yet. My fuel trims look good.
The MAF is reading 0.01lb/s
TP reads 0%
Air_Stat reads off
AT reads 127°f
ECT 201°F
And I checked my engine codes and I have mis fire on cylinders 1&6 but the car runs fine after its starts. I'm assume the mis fire is from the long start.
Can you look for "Intake Air Temperature" in your live data. Also, when you looked at "ECT", was that 200 degrees read from a fully hot engine? (We're looking for a discrepancy..if the engine was cold, that's a warning sign, if it was hot, we're okay.)
I really have no idea what .01 lb/sec equals in KG/hr or g/sec, but the error / anomaly we're looking for most likely has to deal with temperature anyway, so not our focus.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
I didn't see anything labeled intake air temperature. Is their an anagram it maybe listed as? I have a fox well scanner if that information helps.
And yes I ran the data after my hour drive home from work in stop and go traffic.
The MAF reading is way low. A 3 liter inline 6 cylinder reads about 4.75 grams per second.
Mark, a pound is 454 grams. 0.01 pounds would therefore be about 4.5 grams. Trouble is, of course, that a reading in pounds per second really doesn't have the "fine print" of grams per second.
We need to look at intake air temp; this data should be there somewhere.
A smoke test of the intake system for at least 10 minutes with a smoke machine would be good.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Chris, concur.
OP, can you change the tool so that it shows the MAF reading as grams/sec?
I can give it a try after work.
Chris I dont have stuff for a smoke test so I'll have to make an appointment with a shop for that.
Still trying to find the air temp sensor in the live data.
Also this morning when I started the car the temp gauge was not completely cold it was still in the blue but reading like it was a little warm and it long started after sitting over night about 8/9 hours.
Okay finally found the intake air temp it reads 135°f after an hour drive home in traffic.
And the MAF reads 3.29 g/s
That intake air temp is fine, for a fully warm engine stuck in traffic for a while. 3.3 g/sec is low, but hot air doesn't weigh much either.
I'm not saying you should buy this....but you own 2 BMW's, and a smoke test will cost you maybe half what you'll pay for this item:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Autool-SDT-...-/232587932395
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
I tracked down the large vacuum leak. The seal around my disa valve wore down to the point it's just sucking in air.
Thank you everyone for your help
Remember that just because you found a large intake system leak doesn't mean there aren't 3 more. I had an E46 at work ten days ago that had the symptoms. I smoked it, and smoke came pouring out of both intake elbows. I replaced those, and smoked it again. Smoke poured out of the DISA, which, as it turned out, was also broken. I replaced that, and smoked it again. Smoke poured out of the CCV system valve cover breather hose and the oil return hose to the dipstick tube. I replaced them, and smoked it again. Finally, no leaks!
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Most all of my other vacuum hoses and air box have been replaced and recently I've had the air box off recently enough to know I have a couple small wholes in the box before the air filter. But all my boots are in good condition.
I just rebuilt my disa using the "better" aluminum replacement parts and it started right up and idled way smoother than it has in a long time. I will update in a couple days to verify my fix.
Nope still have a long start after rebuilding...
Okay I'm going to resurrect this post because my issue is getting worse. So I rebuilt the disa replaced the ccv checked the air box with a fine tooth comb I found my egr valve vacuum was bad fixed it. When I did the ccv yhe whole intake smelled of gas. The car now doesnt start at all and I am getting codes p1188 and p1188. When I try to start the car the inside is flooded with the smell of gas but the engine bay doesnt smell like gas. Their is fuel pressure to the fuel rail when the key is turning over but nothing comes out when the key is not being turned. I have not hooked up a fuel pressure gauge yet. I will have to rent one first. Please help.
Your car does not have an EGR valve.
Is there gas leaking under the car?
Pull up the rear seat (just pull hard upwards on the leading edge), then remove the two cover plates under the tar paper. Do you see gas there?
Then you'll need to get under the car, right about at the driver's seat area, because that's where the fuel filter lives. You MUST find the source of your raw fuel leak.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
If you are standing on the driver side on the car its the little cylinder with two hoses and a plug all the way to the left on the bottom of the intake. That's what i thought was the egr I apologize for being incorrect I'm not sure what that does. About 2in long and an 1in wide.
I was able to trace the fuel leak down to a bad clip on the fuel rail where the under the the big plastic cabin air set up. I do still have a long start and rough idle until the car warms up. But the car is starting again. So back to running down all the vacuum leaks I guess. I'm not sure what i could be missing. I need to get access to a smoke machine bad ...
Last edited by AwkwardNoob44; 11-05-2018 at 06:32 AM.
I'll say it one more time then shut up. Have you checked fuel pressure? Check while running and also monitor after shutdown and at cold start to see how much pressure remains in the rail and how long for it to rise on a cold start.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Not yet that's my next step is to rent the fuel pressure gauge and see. If you push the pin on the rail while the car is started theirs decent fuel run out. But if the engine is off nothing comes out of the fuel rail. I'll rent the gauges and get back with pressure numbers.
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