E39 Won't start, EWS issue. DME swap possible?

[yyi]

No/Yes/Choice-C.... You need to read the details of all the shit that's above. There are 2 kinds of EWS errors which is what me an SpiFo have been arguing about whilst really agreeing.

We are very skeptical about what the code you reported actually is, since you've provided no details or specifics.

There's a very real chance you've just lost DME-EWS sync as SpiFo keeps saying - especially if it still cranks intermittently.

I strongly suggest you:

• Check battery voltage. Charge battery w/ good charger. Confirm charge took effect. BTW yes they call it a 12V battery but 11.9V or 12.1V or whatever is not charged. 13.7V or something like that is properly charged.
• Read codes w/ proper BMW reader from both the EWS and the DME (ECU). That means 2 separate code readings. Ideally w/ INPA but if you still have the Creator in the meantime do that.
• Report them accurately and completely. Not "yeah there was like some like EWS or something error probably its about keys I think probably maybe". I mean like with the damn number aka "Code 43: EWS blah blah exactly what it says". The Creator might have actually given you the right info but you report it so offhand frankly its clear we don't trust that. Personally (SpiFo disagrees I think) I would actually be fairly inclined to trust the NUMBER a Creator reported but perhaps not the actual text, but its trivial to take the number and look up what the proper error should be listed as. A google search would probably do it even.

Do NOT KEEP WANKING ON THE STARTER MOTOR if the battery is low. You're just increasing your chances of a permanent key error of the type I describe above...


.

Again, thank you and Spirit Force for all your help, I don't blame the skepticism at all. And sorry I have not been able to report back as quickly as I would have liked, but I’ve got an update.

• Battery has been kept on a C-Tek in my garage for about the last year, and prior to that, it has been sitting in my garage with no tender. The battery should be fine. See below images for system registered potential readings.
• Codes read from the previously mentioned C110+ https://i.imgur.com/nObzb6X.jpg and https://imgur.com/s2MI04x
• Got INPA to work, E39>Body>EWS> error read and received

https://imgur.com/inPul7o

• Tried to read the ISN and got ERROR_ECU_REJECTED : https://imgur.com/I2pDChU
• No codes to report in E39>engine>MS42 (maybe because I tried to delete them all the last time I worked on the car)
• Tried to erase code both in both setting then tried to do the EWS start value synch and reset, received messages in german. Car still not cranking. Went back to E39>Body>EWS and no longer getting the above mentioned error and now getting https://imgur.com/cCnD3nu

Please advise on further action.

[geargrinder]

Sure would be great if you could post those images inline although I thought i heard imgur doesn't work anymore...

codes read from the previously mentioned c110+ https://i.imgur.com/nobzb6x.jpg and https://imgur.com/s2mi04x

So those definitely appear to be key-read errors. However the creator doesn't seem to know what the other errors are which goes to SpiFO's point about aftermarket devices. I think for the short money those creators are pretty great for 'something portable that's way better than OBD" - but they do have their limitations. .

got inpa to work, e39>body>ews> error read and received https://imgur.com/inPul7o

You either did something wrong (didn't pick body->EWS) or linked the wrong screen shot. That is an INPA read of the DME not the EWS module. Notice it says "ECU: MS42blahblah".

tried to read the isn and got error_ecu_rejected : https://imgur.com/i2pdchu

Yeah that will always do that AFAIK.

tried to do the ews start value synch and reset, received messages in german. Car still not cranking.

Yep, one choice is to RESET an existing pair of EWS-DME, the other choice is to do the intial sync up of a virgin DME - get the EWS to send it all the secret passwords/rolling-codes.

The reset-sync is what you want, the other one will always error out with a DME thats' already been sync'd. I want to say the reset is usually the 2nd menu choice but don't hold me to it.

now getting https://imgur.com/ccnd3nu

OK so the previous EWS error has changed to this one - thats probably a result of resetting the sync and then still having problems.

I fear you indeed do have the key problem to be honest. I do suspect your voltage sagging over time might have borked something or other. People have had EWS modules fail but boy its a rarity.

But what you really need to do is use your INPA to read the actual EWS module for errors and see if it reports the same key errors as before. If indeed it IS NOT CRANKING and you are getting those password/changing-code errors, then yes the first problem is between the keys and the EWS. Its not terribly hard to fix w/ an AK90+ or similar device (I've been saying "R270+" but I just looked it up and I'm obv conflating those 2... SMH )

You could also check the wiring at the EWS and to the key antenna-ring, make sure it all looks clean and good. The antenna itself is solid state and doesn't really fail often but maybe if a wire got gnawed up by mice or something then the key-antenna signals are not strong enough to read properly...

[jclausen]

Just tow it to a shop and have them get it running

[yyi]

You either did something wrong (didn't pick body->EWS) or linked the wrong screen shot. That is an INPA read of the DME not the EWS module. Notice it says "ECU: MS42blahblah".

Yeah, that was a mistake, you’re exactly right, it was the DME not EWS.

OK so the previous EWS error has changed to this one - thats probably a result of resetting the sync and then still having problems.

I fear you indeed do have the key problem to be honest. I do suspect your voltage sagging over time might have borked something or other. People have had EWS modules fail but boy its a rarity.

But what you really need to do is use your INPA to read the actual EWS module for errors and see if it reports the same key errors as before. If indeed it IS NOT CRANKING and you are getting those password/changing-code errors, then yes the first problem is between the keys and the EWS. Its not terribly hard to fix w/ an AK90+ or similar device (I've been saying "R270+" but I just looked it up and I'm obv conflating those 2... SMH )

You could also check the wiring at the EWS and to the key antenna-ring, make sure it all looks clean and good. The antenna itself is solid state and doesn't really fail often but maybe if a wire got gnawed up by mice or something then the key-antenna signals are not strong enough to read properly...

So, went back out with key#1 after putting the little one down for a nap. Now the existing EWS codes are as follows:
005.PNG

I then erased all the codes and tried reset the sync (F2)

006.PNG

Tried to start the car, and it still does not crank. Read the EWS again and still getting the wrong password error. Read the DME and still the DME-EWS interface error
007.PNG008.PNG



So, before the next steps I want to try to make sure I understand the situation here and please correct me if I’m wrong.
- The “key not valid because of wrong password” error from the EWS is because something is wrong with the Key-EWS interface.
- This then causes the DME to throw the “interface DME-EWS” error because the EWS is not satisfied with the key.
- “Reset sync” function resets the signal between the DME and EWS. This did not work for me because my issue is between the Key and EWS.
- And this EWS-key error is probably cause by just my general negligence with the car while I was away. Low voltage probably got in the way of the EWS-Key communication mid way through transferring data and is now corrupt.


So, if I have got most of that right (and that’s a big if). Seems like my options are to

• “re-authenticate” the EWS and Key using aftermarket key programmer. And this is assuming the EWS is not corrupt beyond repair, which is possible and only way to find out is to try to re-authenticate it.
• Get a virgin EWS.
• get a new Key.
• get a DME with EWS delete.

Is this correct?

[geargrinder]

YES!

EVERYTHING except - sorta - your last bullet you have exactly right.

I said a couple times - DME EWS delete won't fix the busted key auth -> starter issue. You'd have to also do some fussy rewiring to make that work....

You seem ok w computers tho. If you don't mind figuring out some tinkering stuff, give the AK90 a shot... It should be able to reset your existing keys. It's prob the cheapest thing to try.

Where in "North East" are you anyway? Just in case anybody is nearby that might help you.

[TerraPhantm]

So I did find this post, where it ended up apparently being a problem with the coil: https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum...22/#post987122

Does seem odd it would happen to two keys though. So I agree with checking the ring antenna. I don't really know how that could go bad, but still.

[geargrinder]

Agreed.

I'm interested in the different codes for different keys a little bit.

yiyi maybe try this if you don't mind...

1. Clear codes in EWS & DME
2. Try a start w/ Key 1
3. Re-check error codes (should turn up exactly what we see now)
4. Repeat 1-3 for Key 2

Just wondering if really there are different code errors for the 2 keys. The Creator codes made it look like that a little bit - like one key had an error with just the changing code but the other one also had an error with the 'password' (fixed code).

[yyi]

So I did find this post, where it ended up apparently being a problem with the coil: https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum...22/#post987122

Does seem odd it would happen to two keys though. So I agree with checking the ring antenna. I don't really know how that could go bad, but still.

Very interesting thank you, worth taking it apart and looking into.

Agreed.

I'm interested in the different codes for different keys a little bit.

yiyi maybe try this if you don't mind...

1. Clear codes in EWS & DME
2. Try a start w/ Key 1
3. Re-check error codes (should turn up exactly what we see now)
4. Repeat 1-3 for Key 2

Just wondering if really there are different code errors for the 2 keys. The Creator codes made it look like that a little bit - like one key had an error with just the changing code but the other one also had an error with the 'password' (fixed code).

So, some VERY odd findings when I tried this.

Put in Key#1 and it cranks I didn’t let it crank for very long, just long enough to know that it is cranking. Go into INPA and find that DME has no errors and EWS has the following:

009.PNG

Erase all codes, pull key out, lock doors with key remote and wait about 15 seconds. Inserted Key#0, no crank. “Interface DME-EWS” error from DME and “Key number0 not valid because of wrong changing code” error from EWS.

010.PNG011.PNG

After being confused and exploring INPA’s other readouts a bit. I Erased all codes, pull key out, lock doors with key remote and wait for about 15 seconds. Inserted Key#1 again, this time no crank. Same exact errors (and lack thereof).

012.PNG013.PNG

I then do the same jazz hands routine with Key#0 again, same errors, I now am scratching my head a little bit. Put back Key#1 and no crank but this time I am getting the different errors.

(not letting me attach anymore photos, see next post)

[yyi]

(Continued)
016.PNG 017.PNG

So, having seen this. It tells me that the error is still between the Key-EWS. However, I am not sure why two keys are not reporting the exact same codes. Any insight?

Perhaps, I should purchase a new ring antenna on top of whatever route I go? I see they are approximately $15-30

YES!

EVERYTHING except - sorta - your last bullet you have exactly right.

I said a couple times - DME EWS delete won't fix the busted key auth -> starter issue. You'd have to also do some fussy rewiring to make that work....

You seem ok w computers tho. If you don't mind figuring out some tinkering stuff, give the AK90 a shot... It should be able to reset your existing keys. It's prob the cheapest thing to try.

Where in "North East" are you anyway? Just in case anybody is nearby that might help you.

That slipped my mind as I was wrapping up my thoughts, brain is not what it used to be in my 20's haha. And once again thank you and everyone in this thread for the help!

I'm in north NJ, and I do plan on giving that a shot as I don't mind tinkering.

[geargrinder]

OK.

Here's my current "working theory".

I think your Key #0 has gotten borked (aka needs re-coding/sync w/ the EWS) , but your Key #1 (sometimes cranks) is OK.

From it cranking with the apparently-not-borked key, I'm guessing the ring antenna might be OK.

I think you may have some communication error with the EWS that is occurring between EWS/DME.

Maybe there's a wiring problem EWS-DME... The EWS-DME wire is black with purple stripe.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ignals/uN5y3tn

Or maybe indeed your EWS is borked.

Suggestions... Since you seem pretty good w/ INPA (hooray! makes life so much better) do some deeper digging there...

1. clear all codes, AND, reset EWS sync between EWS-DME (you don't mention the latter...

2. insert Key #1, turn ignition on, no crank yet

3. go into INPA, EWS, and read the 'internal data' or 'status' or something I'm not sure what the menu choices will be exactly sometimes the text is different for different platforms. this should be a bunch of circles indicating all the EWS's required signals as to yes/no. it should give you a pretty clear idea of why the EWS will or will not start the car. there may be another choice (again - dunno for MS42 based car...) for viewing the key info, if so pick that too and see what the EWS module can tell you.

4. swap Key #0 - again without cranking, and check same data and see what EWS thinks. I think this will just confirm that Key #1 is OK but Key #0 is not but worth looking at.

5. go back and try a start w/ Key #1 (again after being sure you reset EWS sync... and definitely put some big labels on those keys to keep them straight)

6. read codes see what you get. in the DME, do Read Status and check the digital values there - If I'm correct that there's a wiring or EWS failure you probably also will be able to see an EWS circle that is not being lit up like its supposed to...

Here's a random web pic of a different cars EWS data screen... yours prob will look different but to give you an idea what you're looking for...



Heres a DME 'read status - digital' screen from an M62TU... again yours will be different but note this one shows "EWS comms is OK"... YOu're looking for something like this. BTW look at all the great crap that INPA can show you live in regards to the DME's sensors and logical status. People neglect this stuff ALL THE TIME when it often can tell you SO much about whats up w/ a car...



HTH.

[yyi]

OK.

Here's my current "working theory".

I think your Key #0 has gotten borked (aka needs re-coding/sync w/ the EWS) , but your Key #1 (sometimes cranks) is OK.

From it cranking with the apparently-not-borked key, I'm guessing the ring antenna might be OK.

I think you may have some communication error with the EWS that is occurring between EWS/DME.

Maybe there's a wiring problem EWS-DME... The EWS-DME wire is black with purple stripe.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ignals/uN5y3tn

Or maybe indeed your EWS is borked.

Suggestions... Since you seem pretty good w/ INPA (hooray! makes life so much better) do some deeper digging there...

1. clear all codes, AND, reset EWS sync between EWS-DME (you don't mention the latter...

2. insert Key #1, turn ignition on, no crank yet

3. go into INPA, EWS, and read the 'internal data' or 'status' or something I'm not sure what the menu choices will be exactly sometimes the text is different for different platforms. this should be a bunch of circles indicating all the EWS's required signals as to yes/no. it should give you a pretty clear idea of why the EWS will or will not start the car. there may be another choice (again - dunno for MS42 based car...) for viewing the key info, if so pick that too and see what the EWS module can tell you.

4. swap Key #0 - again without cranking, and check same data and see what EWS thinks. I think this will just confirm that Key #1 is OK but Key #0 is not but worth looking at.

5. go back and try a start w/ Key #1 (again after being sure you reset EWS sync... and definitely put some big labels on those keys to keep them straight)

6. read codes see what you get. in the DME, do Read Status and check the digital values there - If I'm correct that there's a wiring or EWS failure you probably also will be able to see an EWS circle that is not being lit up like its supposed to...

Here's a random web pic of a different cars EWS data screen... yours prob will look different but to give you an idea what you're looking for...



Heres a DME 'read status - digital' screen from an M62TU... again yours will be different but note this one shows "EWS comms is OK"... YOu're looking for something like this. BTW look at all the great crap that INPA can show you live in regards to the DME's sensors and logical status. People neglect this stuff ALL THE TIME when it often can tell you SO much about whats up w/ a car...



HTH.

So good to have your input and help, not sure where I would be if not for it. And I’m glad I could at least make it easier by not being completely clueless (hope I haven’t spoken too soon).
So, following your advice:

1. Using Key#1, turned the car on, erased EWS and DME codes and reset DME-EWS sync. Pulled the key from ignition and locked the doors with the remote, waited a whole minute.
2. Again inserted Key#1, just to the on position.
3. E39>Body>EWS. Read the internal data, see below. Pulled the key out, locked the doors with the remote, waited.

018.PNG
4. Inserted Key#0, just turned to the on position. Checked for the same internal data as above. See below. Removed the key, locked the doors, waited.
024.PNG
5. Inserted Key#1 again, tried to start, no response.
6. Then went in and read the codes, see below.
027 - 028.PNG

One big standout here is that:
Key#1: DME line switched free – YES
Key#0: DME line switched free – NO

I dug a little more and saw that the status of the keys in another menu had different values. See below.

023 - 026.PNG

Furthermore, Key#4 through Key#9 are free and unused. So that’s some good news there right?

So, my ignorance leads me to ask…
what does “DME line switched free” mean?
What does the car’s different output of “DME line switched free” say about the different keys?
And what does Key#1’s “no” to changing code and Key#0’s “yes” to changing code mean?

Also, I did try to read the Digital values in the DME and unfortunately, “EWS” status was not amongst the outputs, and wow it is an abundant amount of diagnostic information. I wish I discovered this earlier but better late than never, and it makes me a lot more optimistic about keeping this car in the future (if I can successfully get it to run).

On another note, does this substantiate your working theory thus far? I’m still not experienced enough to diagnose whether its Key-EWS or EWS-DME given the errors I’m seeing. You still think it is a communication error between the EWS and DME? If so, what do you think is the root cause? Fixable via DIY? Perhaps I should get started with accessing the EWS module and checking for potential wire/connector issues. I ordered the AK90, hope I haven’t jumped the gun here.

[geargrinder]

Nice work! You are INPA pro now.

OK...

I think the 'DME line switched free' means it can talk to the DME. You get these weird German translation some times. Why does key 1 show that but not key 0? Guess: Perhaps the EWS won't try to talk to the DME unless it validates the key first.

Look again at the last screenshots you took - those tick circles aren't "Changing Code good yes/no" - the text starts on line before... "Key invalid because of" Think of it more like this:

Key invalid because of:

• changing code? (changing password doesn't match?)
  
• identification? (ID number not found/read?)
  
• password? (EWS-fixed password doesn't match?)
  
• disabled? (this key slot is disabled?)

If any of the circles are filled it means "this key won't work for this reason". No filled circles is what you want to see on that screen.
So that just verifies what we thought - your key 0 is borked. The AK90 hopefully can sort that out for you by resetting it. Yes the other slots being empty mean if you ordered a new dealer key it should work fine.

Now lets go back up to the previous page... And consider that that page has the same format, aka..

Starter switched of because of:

• reached resolutions limit? (I think this means too many attempts to start without success)
  
• P/N / US-clutch switch? (is clutch switch depressed or automatic in neutral?)
  
• central lock closed? (is the car locked/armed - can't start it if it is...)
  
• BC? (this is security-PIN function in the BC/MID that you can turn on w/ a password required to start)

So for both keys its reporting a clutch switch not being down. Are you cranking it with the clutch pedal to the floor every time? That is required for a US car! (You can turn it off w/ NCSExpert BTW...)

Scan that same screen then push the clutch pedal to the floor and see if that dot goes away. It should.

I still wonder if there's an EWS/DME comms issue via wiring or something else. There's - as we've said - always the chance your EWS is screwed up itself....
That said w/ your AK90 you should (I think... again, don't have one...) be able to program a used EWS if you needed to?

[yyi]

Nice work! You are INPA pro now.

OK...

I think the 'DME line switched free' means it can talk to the DME. You get these weird German translation some times. Why does key 1 show that but not key 0? Guess: Perhaps the EWS won't try to talk to the DME unless it validates the key first.

Look again at the last screenshots you took - those tick circles aren't "Changing Code good yes/no" - the text starts on line before... "Key invalid because of" Think of it more like this:

Key invalid because of:

• changing code? (changing password doesn't match?)
• identification? (ID number not found/read?)
• password? (EWS-fixed password doesn't match?)
• disabled? (this key slot is disabled?)

If any of the circles are filled it means "this key won't work for this reason". No filled circles is what you want to see on that screen.
So that just verifies what we thought - your key 0 is borked. The AK90 hopefully can sort that out for you by resetting it. Yes the other slots being empty mean if you ordered a new dealer key it should work fine.

Now lets go back up to the previous page... And consider that that page has the same format, aka..
Starter switched of because of:

• reached resolutions limit? (I think this means too many attempts to start without success)
• P/N / US-clutch switch? (is clutch switch depressed or automatic in neutral?)
• central lock closed? (is the car locked/armed - can't start it if it is...)
• BC? (this is security-PIN function in the BC/MID that you can turn on w/ a password required to start)

So for both keys its reporting a clutch switch not being down. Are you cranking it with the clutch pedal to the floor every time? That is required for a US car! (You can turn it off w/ NCSExpert BTW...)

Scan that same screen then push the clutch pedal to the floor and see if that dot goes away. It should.

I still wonder if there's an EWS/DME comms issue via wiring or something else. There's - as we've said - always the chance your EWS is screwed up itself....
That said w/ your AK90 you should (I think... again, don't have one...) be able to program a used EWS if you needed to?

• The clutch was not depressed when I was reading the code, but always depressed when trying to start. Furthermore, I did take a look at that output previously, and can confirm via INPA outputs that the clutch sensor works.
• I’ll take apart the dash and expose the EWS in a few days and report back what I find.

• I’ve done some digging around on the AK90+ and see that I am able to “renew” the keys per all the seller pages. Can anyone confirm that this is the function that would probably best suite my needs? I’ve found lots of resource on how to initialize a new key, but so far nothing on “fixing” a key. Can anyone shed some light on how to proceed with the software?

• And Hypothetically, could I purchase a new pcf7935 transponder chip and program that as a new key then replace the newly programed transponder in my current key?

[yyi]

Okay, so a little bit of development. I got the AK90 and successfully read information from both keys and it looked good, showed mileage key positions and VIN. I then read the EWS successfully and made both keys unused (that’s key#0 and 1 on INPA, Key #1 and 2 on AK90, I’ll state the keys as written in INPA for consistency) and wrote that back into the EWS successfully.
Next I placed the EWS back into the car and then connected the battery. First using Key#0, moved it into the on position and waited for about 20 seconds. Then using INPA I went in and read the codes and statuses. See images below.
039 - Copy.PNG
Repeated the steps using Key#1, same error for DME but no error from the EWS. See images below.
043 - Copy.PNG
Needless to say, no crank, however I did notice something strange when I was looking at the status of the EWS. It stated that Key#0 is used again, however, key#1 is not. Probably have something to do with key#1 not generating any codes in the EWS. See image below.
047.PNG
So, a bit stumped here, not sure what to make of what is going on. Perhaps the EWS is cooked? Maybe the ring antenna? Maybe both keys? I have checked the wiring and nothing seems noticeably out of place or damaged. I’ve got a blank key/remote/transponder coming in. Next I will try to program the new transponder onto the next available position, take out the old transponder from Key#1 and replace it with the new transponder.
Any input or insight would be welcome.

[geargrinder]

I think you might not have done the AK90 process quite right.

You need those 2 keys to be marked USED not unused. Otherwise the 'slot' is not activated. Using the AK90 you can turn on/off used/unused all manually obviously... looks to me like you got something confused there...
And maybe you didn't have the EWS data read or loaded properly before you re-wrote the keys?

I'm not an AK90 expert (I really should get one since I have key to make anyway...) but from what I remember from watching, and just now looking at screenshots from the web... I think you need to:

• Read ("Test") Key 0 in the device first.
• Then "Read EWS" and "Analyze EWS" to fix the used/unused slots to what you want them to be - Slots 1 & 2 Used and Not Locked (BTW Slot 3 / Key 2 is probably the old Valet key which is long missing and that's why its activated... you could 'lock' that if you wanted...)
• Only then (with the EWS data still fully loaded in the screen - and if it isn't loaded, then re-read it)...
• "Write Key" and assign Key 0 -> Slot 1 (yes the numbering is confusing between the 2!)
• Write that to the Key and the EWS (should prompt)...
• Then repeat the process for Key 1 -> Slot 2

Then go back and read again w/ INPA. If you STILL get stuff that doesn't match (i.e. you wrote "Used" to the EWS but the key slots are still showing up "Unused") then maybe the EWS is corrupted... I doubt if the ring antenna is broken since it seems to be reading stuff and previously it was showing a non-zero changing code.

[yyi]

I think you might not have done the AK90 process quite right.

You need those 2 keys to be marked USED not unused. Otherwise the 'slot' is not activated. Using the AK90 you can turn on/off used/unused all manually obviously... looks to me like you got something confused there...
And maybe you didn't have the EWS data read or loaded properly before you re-wrote the keys?

I'm not an AK90 expert (I really should get one since I have key to make anyway...) but from what I remember from watching, and just now looking at screenshots from the web... I think you need to:

• Read ("Test") Key 0 in the device first.
• Then "Read EWS" and "Analyze EWS" to fix the used/unused slots to what you want them to be - Slots 1 & 2 Used and Not Locked (BTW Slot 3 / Key 2 is probably the old Valet key which is long missing and that's why its activated... you could 'lock' that if you wanted...)
• Only then (with the EWS data still fully loaded in the screen - and if it isn't loaded, then re-read it)...
• "Write Key" and assign Key 0 -> Slot 1 (yes the numbering is confusing between the 2!)
• Write that to the Key and the EWS (should prompt)...
• Then repeat the process for Key 1 -> Slot 2

Then go back and read again w/ INPA. If you STILL get stuff that doesn't match (i.e. you wrote "Used" to the EWS but the key slots are still showing up "Unused") then maybe the EWS is corrupted... I doubt if the ring antenna is broken since it seems to be reading stuff and previously it was showing a non-zero changing code.

I followed the steps based on what I was able to find on the web.
https://mbkeyprog.com/content/images...20EWS(ENG).pdf
https://carmod.ru/docs/bmw/bmw_ews_reader.pdf

It is very possible that I did not use the correct process. However, isn’t the process you described for writing new keys? I shouldn’t be able to re-write a non-virgin transponder. Or am I confusing “write key” with writing to the transponder and not the EWS?
However, I do have a new key/remote/transponder coming in (ebay shipping issues…. Sigh… might have to order from another seller). I plan on taking the virgin transponder and programming it to a new key position then swapping the newly programmed transponder into an old key assembly to avoid having a new key cut for now.

[geargrinder]

Dude. You're an incurable parts cannon fusilier.

Before you keep just payin fer stuff why don’t you actually see if you can make what you have werk in 5 minutes!!!

F@$@$8ck ok I've had loads of patience here but it's running thin.

Dude.

First of all. Those links you have up there are for horrible third-party translations from foreign languages. I have seen 10 times better instructions on the web. Honestly that doesn’t even look like the normal AK90 software. Fork all that crap it's junk. Google better stuff. It's out there. You suck at Google.

No you can’t rewrite some of the information to each key, but the changing password constantly gets re-written to the key on every start. That’s the whole idea that we try to reset it. But also your EWS needs to be reprogrammed because it has the WRONG VALUES AS MADE CLEAR ABOVE. SO EVEN IF YOU COULDN'T WRITE ANYTHING TO THE KEY (and you can) YOU CAN WRITE TO THE EWS. AND YOU NEED TO!!! Your key slots are disabled! AGAIN - the whole stupid damn reason for buying the AK90.

Just forkin try the damn thing I suggested please.

If you really tried properly to reprogram the thing and it really doesn’t work, and the EWS is returning strange results, then maybe. ... ok... But you trying to do it the wrong way once and not continuing to sort it out is completely inadequate. Do it right.

[yyi]

Dude. You're an incurable parts cannon fusilier.

Before you keep just payin fer stuff why don’t you actually see if you can make what you have werk in 5 minutes!!!

F@$@$8ck ok I've had loads of patience here but it's running thin.

Dude.

First of all. Those links you have up there are for horrible third-party translations from foreign languages. I have seen 10 times better instructions on the web. Honestly that doesn’t even look like the normal AK90 software. Fork all that crap it's junk. Google better stuff. It's out there. You suck at Google.

No you can’t rewrite some of the information to each key, but the changing password constantly gets re-written to the key on every start. That’s the whole idea that we try to reset it. But also your EWS needs to be reprogrammed because it has the WRONG VALUES AS MADE CLEAR ABOVE. SO EVEN IF YOU COULDN'T WRITE ANYTHING TO THE KEY (and you can) YOU CAN WRITE TO THE EWS. AND YOU NEED TO!!! Your key slots are disabled! AGAIN - the whole stupid damn reason for buying the AK90.

Just forkin try the damn thing I suggested please.

If you really tried properly to reprogram the thing and it really doesn’t work, and the EWS is returning strange results, then maybe. ... ok... But you trying to do it the wrong way once and not continuing to sort it out is completely inadequate. Do it right.

Oh dear, seems like I’ve managed to get you PO’d. And you did have a load of patience with me, to which I thank you for and can’t blame you if it is running thin.
So I guess I should better explain myself, given my situation having to babysit after work most days and on weekends. Spending the quick 5 minutes to run out and trying something isn’t ideal to me every day. So, spending $15 on a key assembly hoping that this will give me 2 options rather than 1 when I plan on giving it another go on Sunday was worth it to me (stupid? Yeah there’s an argument for that).
I definite do plan on trying your suggestions the next opportunity I get. The links are a bit suspicious I guess, but here are a few more posts I’ve read that says similar things from people whom I think are credible.

I just did one today. Car had no crank, diag software showed key was all good, except for wrong rolling code between key/ews.
AK-90 can fix this, buy unchecking used keys, the key will resync to ews on next ignition cycle and start the car.

I've also seen keys damaged too far, and this did not help, only other solution is a new key.

You can buy a new key, that is a flashlight key, no remote, for around $100 from the dealer.

Or you can mail me your key and ews module, and I can give it a try, but honestly it's a 50/50 chance, while a new key is 99% chance success rate.

If the rolling code doesn't match, the only way is to dismount the EWS module, read it out using a special interface and reset the key to be "unused" for the unit. The rolling code is reset to FF values and the first time you start the car it matches to the key.

Jumping the battery wasn't the problem, it was the low volts it had.
The EWS checks the key, once it is valid it activates the starter, and send a new rolling code to the key.
The problem occurs when the cranking takes the last bit of life out of the battery, the voltage dips further, and it doesn't get the chance to properly exchange the next rolling code.

Resetting this can't be done by diagnostics, but it can be done with resetting the key's state in the EWS box to "unused" with an AK90 EWS programmer.
When a key is marked as unused, it only checks two of the three different types of code stored in the key, and will allow one shot at setting up a rolling code again, getting that key to continue starting the car again.

Anyways, I probably should have just done that in the first place instead of the links. Clearly I wasn’t thinking straight. Anyway I’m exhausted, going to pass out now. Feel like I want to buy you a beer for sticking with me this far.

[Fx323i]

First of all I need to say I did not read all what was written in this whole topic but I feel like there are some things to clarify. Some people say you need to mark the key as USED instead of UNUSED. This is wrong. When the key is marked as USED, the EWS thinks that it should compare both codes, the solid and random one, and if BOTH and the password to the transponder is compared to the ones in the EWS and in case they fit, the random code is checked, stored first in the EWS and second in the transponder in the key.

If the key is UNUSED and the random code is all FF, the EWS only compares the solid code and password (better said, the password fits to decrypt the shadow part of the transponder memory), and if they fit, it reads the random code from the key, stores in itself and then compares. In the same time, it marks the key as USED (the USED state it stores also if the random code does not fit).

yyi sent me his read from the EWS and the file adjusted by AK90. It is clear that the AK90 only changed the part which says "UNUSED", but did not clear the random code. I cleared the random code, too, and sent him the file back to test. I hope to get some good news soon.

[geargrinder]

OK OK I calm down. sorry.

^^^ Martin is the absolute proper expert on this so indeed if he says I have the used/unused wrong then there is no doubt he's entirely right.

SO the 'used' gets updated automatically by the EWS when it sees a 'new' key.

Got it. So when you want to reset a key, you 1. reset the changing code in the key to blank (FF), 2. reset same changing code to blank in the EWS, 3. mark same slot as unused.... and then on first use the EWS will automatically start loading random/changing keys into those spots again?

I really should get myself one of those to get more experience w/ them.

[Fx323i]

Yes, basically this information is correct. You only reset the changing code to FF only in EWS, not the key. The first time the key is in the ignition lock, the EWS reads the changing code, stores in itself and then works with it like with any other key. This is also why the first start with an absolutely new key is not immediate. The relay in EWS clicks about 5 seconds after the key is turned in the start position, if you do not wait for the control lights on the dashboard to switch off. I am trying to describe it all to be more human understandable.

[Fx323i]

Sorry to mods for a double post, but I feel like this infornation needs to be separated.

I finally had a chance to read through the whole topic and have more insight in a history of this problem.

Before doing any further steps although rewriting the ews with AK90 with a file I sent you won't make any harm, I would test the starter and battery. Measure the voltage on the battery - how much does it show?

Then unplug the ews connector, take a normal 30A fuse and just plug it in the car-side connector which was unplugged from the ews. There are only 2 pins thick enough to place the fuse, you can't miss. Plug the fuse and try to crank. Does it crank normally?

[yyi]

So I uploaded the bin Martin (Fx323i) sent me onto the EWS and headed out this morning using AK90 3.02. Plugged in the 30A fuse into the car side of the EWS plug, car cranks and cranks strong. Couldn't find my "better" meter, so I had to use the HF one i had lying around, read 13V, tried using INPA readout and it read 12.34V.
049.PNG

Next, I disconnected the negative from the car, connected the EWS to the car, connected the negative lead back to the car.

• Key#0 (key#1 in AK90), was inserted, moved to the on position and then waited 20 seconds.
• Fired up INPA, reset all the codes and reset the EWS DME sync.
• removed key, moved out of the car, locked the doors and waited 1 full minute. I did this mainly because I thought cranking the car with the EWS removed (and fuse in place) would offset the rolling code between the EWS and DME. So I tried to resync and remove codes to sort of give it as much of a blank start as possible.

Next for Key#0

• Key#0 in the on position for 20 seconds (even though I don't think it was necessary)
• went into INPA and read the codes and status
• Clutch to the floor, car does not crank.
• removed key, moved out of the car, locked the doors and waited 1 full minute.

048 - Copy.PNG

Key#1

• Key#0 in the on position for 20 seconds
• went into INPA and read the codes and status, see below
• Clutch to the floor car did not crank

053 - Copy.PNG

Just like last time, the EWS now recognizes Key#0 as used and Key#1 still as unused
057.PNG

Martin, any idea what might be the cause? perhaps the EWS is kaput or transponder is not acting right?

[Fx323i]

Have no idea why my last post disappeared when trying to edit it, so new one comes here.

You need to resest with key 0. Key 1 seems to have some problem in the transponder, but key 0 is now absolutely OK and the EWS is fine with it. So lets double check and see the live data from ews again, this time also with the clutch depressed. The only thing preventing the starter to spin at that moment with key 0 was the clutch switch.

[yyi]

Some regression, unfortunately. Key#0 is behaving like Key#1 now. I tried again today with the clutch pedal depressed basically the whole time and it didn’t work. I captured the DME’s response to the clutch sensor here.

058 - Copy.PNG

With the clutch depressed the entire time, I used INPA and saw that the DME line switched free is no longer a “yes”. The key’s invald because of changing code and password again. I tried to reload the same reset bin file onto the EWS and it is still giving me the same errors.

069 - Copy.PNG

It gets worse, INPA was not letting me do a DME-EWS reset and the EWS is no longer turning Key0 into used when inserted.

064.PNG068.PNG

Also, both keys are rubber button keys.