E39 Won't start, EWS issue. DME swap possible?

[yyi]

After moving around a few times, my car has unfortunately sat for 3 years without it frequently running. The battery was taken out of the car and left on a tender, so that isn't an issue. It is a 1999 528i manual, TU engine.

• About 8 months ago was the last time the car successfully started.
• About 6 months ago, I tried to start the car and it refused to start despite it being able to crank.
• Today, I had a few friends come over to give me a hand and loan me their diagnostic tools. Weirdly, the car cranked, but only sometimes. Most of the times when the key was moved to the starting position, nothing happened, no clicks or anything. We then used the diagnostic tools and found out that there were EWS errors for both keys. I did some looking, and it appears that the EWS not recognizing the keys means the car will not enable the fuel pump and spark plugs. The plan going forward is to send the DME out to a tuning house for a DME delete.

So, here's the question. Can I purchase another MS42 DME that had the EWS already deleted and have that be a plug and play fix? Or will I need to send in my MS42 to have the EWS deleted? I want to make sure that the tamper dot does not appear.

Thanks.

[effduration]

I 'll let someone who knows more about the EWS system chime in. But sending the DME out for EWS delete just because the car sat (even 3 years) makes little sense to me if you have matching keys. I was going to suggest the batteries in keys have died and will charge in ignition, but I don't think the EWS in the key is powered by the key battery - otherwise a valet key would not work.

Another option is to buy a new key (valet is cheapest) from dealer to see if that works?

[Spirit Force]

EWS delete is waste of money on normal daily driver IMHO. Here the insuranse etc. will be higher for car without immo. Use proper diagnostic tool to diagnose the issue. INPA/ISTA/DIS to name a few. If you don't have them maybe someone in your are has them and could help you out? I do it for locals around my area. Could be as simple as doing DME-EWS sync. Without proper diagnostic tools it's impossible to say.

[yyi]

I 'll let someone who knows more about the EWS system chime in. But sending the DME out for EWS delete just because the car sat (even 3 years) makes little sense to me if you have matching keys. I was going to suggest the batteries in keys have died and will charge in ignition, but I don't think the EWS in the key is powered by the key battery - otherwise a valet key would not work.

Another option is to buy a new key (valet is cheapest) from dealer to see if that works?

You’re right, it does sound like it doesn’t make sense, but my impression of the situation is that because of the EWS error, which was read from the scanner, the car isn’t starting. Thus, I thought sending the DME out is a possible solution. On the other hand, batteries in keys still work, they unlock the doors. And I don’t think a new key will work because it needs to be aligned with the EWS, which is my current problem, but I haven’t considered the valet key, will look into that. Thanks.

EWS delete is waste of money on normal daily driver IMHO. Here the insuranse etc. will be higher for car without immo. Use proper diagnostic tool to diagnose the issue. INPA/ISTA/DIS to name a few. If you don't have them maybe someone in your are has them and could help you out? I do it for locals around my area. Could be as simple as doing DME-EWS sync. Without proper diagnostic tools it's impossible to say.

The tool that was used to read the EWS error was the C110+. My friend said pretty much the exact same thing, which is it needs a DME-EWS-Key sync. I need to tow it to a dealer for that, and it will probably cost a lot. Another option I was given was to send my DME out for a EWS delete, also not cheap. Thus, I wanted to ask if it is possible to just buy a DME with the EWS delete (even cheaper), and whether or not that will be a plug and play solution. Do you think that is possible?
Problem for me is right now is not a lot of free time, which is why I wouldn’t mind paying a little more for a plug and play solution. Also, will try to look into the INPA/ISTA/DIS you suggested. Thank you.

[BimmerBreaker]

I think the answer to your question is yes if you find an EWS deleted DME for that computer it should be plug and play if the DME is the issue, it may need some coding to align the DME to the rest of your car but usually the only critical coding is aligning the DME to EWS. I've not done this job myself so not 100% on that

I would try ISTA or INPA to try to align the DME to EWS before spending money on a new DME though

[Spirit Force]

You’re right, it does sound like it doesn’t make sense, but my impression of the situation is that because of the EWS error, which was read from the scanner, the car isn’t starting. Thus, I thought sending the DME out is a possible solution. On the other hand, batteries in keys still work, they unlock the doors. And I don’t think a new key will work because it needs to be aligned with the EWS, which is my current problem, but I haven’t considered the valet key, will look into that. Thanks.

The tool that was used to read the EWS error was the C110+. My friend said pretty much the exact same thing, which is it needs a DME-EWS-Key sync. I need to tow it to a dealer for that, and it will probably cost a lot. Another option I was given was to send my DME out for a EWS delete, also not cheap. Thus, I wanted to ask if it is possible to just buy a DME with the EWS delete (even cheaper), and whether or not that will be a plug and play solution. Do you think that is possible?
Problem for me is right now is not a lot of free time, which is why I wouldn’t mind paying a little more for a plug and play solution. Also, will try to look into the INPA/ISTA/DIS you suggested. Thank you.

Do you happen to have a laptop? If you do you only need the K+DCAN cable and the 20 pin to obd2 adapter. Then just install INPA/ISTA and your cooking with gas. Some people the software is really hard to install, but I beg the differ. I've done quite a few remote installs so I know what I'm talking about.

If the other ecu with ews delete was for the same engine spec it should be plug and play, if the EWS is really the only issue. I prefer to diagnose the issue first, some prefer the parts cannon. Without proper diagnose it's impossible to what the issue is and what the best solution would be.

[geargrinder]

EWS3 is a 2 step thing, EWS has to recognize the keys to allow starter to crank, then, DME and EWS have to verify with each other to allow it to actually start. The first (keys lost sync) is harder to fix than the second (EWS-DME). I would want to verify the actual error that is being reported. Are you SURE it’s EWS and KEYS or are you just saying “keys” (or does the creator misreport the error) because you assume that’s what it means? I don’t know how many tof new people tell me stuff that ends up being not really what they have because they jumped to conclusions.

Does the car crank at all? If it doesn’t crank at all then those errors are indeed the key-EWS pairing. That can happen - super rare and you almost have to try to be dumb enough to make it happen - by trying to start it on super dead car battery, so the key and EWS passwords get out of sync. Battery in the key and remote function have ZERO to do with this BTW. Just EWS deleting the DME wont fix it either because the starter still goes through the first EWS / key part. You’d need to rewire the starter electrics to bypass the EWS to fix that (and ALSO EWS delete the DME because otherwise the EWS won’t move on to step 2 and tell DME it’s OK to run the engine). That really is a backasswards masturbatory waste of time and money to fix the problem caused by trying to start the car on a dead battery. On the other hand if you buy a new key it should start the car no problem... Or, you find someone with the right key / EWS tools (ex: AK90+ or similar) and they can simply reset the existing keys & EWS module back to happy land.

If it cranks but doesn’t start then the keys ARE being recognized, and the error is only the EWS - DME pairing. In that case the right solution is :05mins w INPA or a similar tool that can reset EWS. Basically free unless you have to pay somebody to do it and even then they shouldn’t charge hardly anything. Yes EWS delete would fix this but why? Just resync the darn thing, it’s all still fine.

[itsbrokeagain]

EWS3 is a 2 step thing, EWS has to recognize the keys to allow starter to crank, then, DME and EWS have to verify with each other to allow it to actually start. The first (keys lost sync) is harder to fix than the second (EWS-DME). I would want to verify the actual error that is being reported. Are you SURE it’s EWS and KEYS or are you just saying “keys” (or does the creator misreport the error) because you assume that’s what it means? I don’t know how many tof new people tell me stuff that ends up being not really what they have because they jumped to conclusions.

Does the car crank at all? If it doesn’t crank at all then those errors are indeed the key-EWS pairing. That can happen - super rare and you almost have to try to be dumb enough to make it happen - by trying to start it on super dead car battery, so the key and EWS passwords get out of sync. Battery in the key and remote function have ZERO to do with this BTW. Just EWS deleting the DME wont fix it either because the starter still goes through the first EWS / key part. You’d need to rewire the starter electrics to bypass the EWS to fix that (and ALSO EWS delete the DME because otherwise the EWS won’t move on to step 2 and tell DME it’s OK to run the engine). That really is a backasswards masturbatory waste of time and money to fix the problem caused by trying to start the car on a dead battery. On the other hand if you buy a new key it should start the car no problem... Or, you find someone with the right key / EWS tools (ex: R270+ or similar) and they can simply reset the existing keys & EWS module back to happy land.

If it cranks but doesn’t start then the keys ARE being recognized, and the error is only the EWS - DME pairing. In that case the right solution is :05mins w INPA or a similar tool that can reset EWS. Basically free unless you have to pay somebody to do it and even then they shouldn’t charge hardly anything. Yes EWS delete would fix this but why? Just resync the darn thing, it’s all still fine.

GG beat me to the punch. Try initializing one or both keys first and see what happens. If that fails to yield results time to resync the EWS with the car.

[Spirit Force]

GG beat me to the punch. Try initializing one or both keys first and see what happens. If that fails to yield results time to resync the EWS with the car.

How do you initialize key? The remote part has nothing to do with starting car. The keys are permanently programmed to the EWS at the factory. If the EWS is somehow corrupted, the easy option would be just to buy new EWS from dealer. If there is an EWS issue there will be code for it.

[geargrinder]

How do you initialize key? The remote part has nothing to do with starting car. The keys are permanently programmed to the EWS at the factory. If the EWS is somehow corrupted, the easy option would be just to buy new EWS from dealer. If there is an EWS issue there will be code for it.

Actually ForcefulSpirit - you can “resync” the dynamic passwords between an ews and key once it is lost but you just need one of those aftermarket key / EWS programmers. You are completely right of course what guys call “initialize” is related to remote open and is totally separate and unrelated system.

[Spirit Force]

Actually ForcefulSpirit - you can “resync” the dynamic passwords between an ews and key once it is lost but you just need one of those aftermarket key / EWS programmers. You are completely right of course what guys call “initialize” is related to remote open and is totally separate and unrelated system.

You are talking about is programming the transponder chip to EWS. Sure it can be done with the correct aftermarket tool, but I've yet to see any car that needed that (when were are talking about factory keys). Sure EWS failures, DME-EWS sync issues etc. but never a E39 that has lost one or all the 10 preprogrammed chips. If that were to happen, I would suspect the EWS is corrupted, in which case I would just buy new EWS from dealer.

[geargrinder]

SpiFo - nope - it can happen in just the right conditions without any real real hardware failure. Notice in my OP here I said exceedingly rare so you’re right there that it’s virtually nonexistent but but it’s not literally nonexistent. Here’s how it happens:

Each time the EWS validates the key, it reads 1. The key ID, 2. What is essentially a permanent password, and 3. a changing password. If all those match what the EWS has “on record” for that key ID, then it calculates a new changing password, writes that to its own EWS memory table, and flashes that new changing password to the key.

If the power cuts out, or, drops too low to properly finish the changing password key write, then just as that last bit is happening, the EWS database thInks the key has the new password - but the write never completed. The key either has the old password or perhaps a corrupted password. Neither key nor EWS is unusable , they just need resync, but that can’t be done w INPA type tools.

To fix it you reset the changing password in the key and EWS... I don’t have an AK90+ myself but you can find dozens of threads explaining how, and there’s other programmers that can do it too.

Now OP here claims “EWS errors for both keys”. It’s super unlikely the above really happened to both keys , which is why I wonder if he’s not mis-describing his symptoms and really it’s purely a simple DME resync that’s needed (aka you and I see eye to eye on that really).

But there is a long shot chance he farked up both keys w the EWS by hammering away over and over at the ignition with a super dead car battery...

[Spirit Force]

SpiFo - nope - it can happen in just the right conditions without any real real hardware failure. Notice in my OP here I said exceedingly rare so you’re right there that it’s virtually nonexistent but but it’s not literally nonexistent. Here’s how it happens:

Each time the EWS validates the key, it reads 1. The key ID, 2. What is essentially a permanent password, and 3. a changing password. If all those match what the EWS has “on record” for that key ID, then it calculates a new changing password, writes that to its own EWS memory table, and flashes that new changing password to the key.

If the power cuts out, or, drops too low to properly finish the changing password key write, then just as that last bit is happening, the EWS database thInks the key has the new password - but the write never completed. The key either has the old password or perhaps a corrupted password. Neither key nor EWS is unusable , they just need resync, but that can’t be done w INPA type tools.

To fix it you reset the changing password in the key and EWS... I don’t have an R270+ myself but you can find dozens of threads explaining how, and there’s other programmers that can do it too.

Now OP here claims “EWS errors for both keys”. It’s super unlikely the above really happened to both keys , which is why I wonder if he’s not mis-describing his symptoms and really it’s purely a simple DME resync that’s needed (aka you and I see eye to eye on that really).

But there is a long shot chance he farked up both keys w the EWS by hammering away over and over at the ignition with a super dead car battery...

There is a mechanism on EWS to recover if the changing code goes off sync between key and EWS. Sure if the voltage was low enough and he tried to start it bunch of times the changing code might get far enough that EWS can't sort it out. I've yet to see one and I've diagnosed dozens of EWS issues. Due to low voltage the DME-EWS goes off sync easily (at least that is my experience). In any case there is no reason to guess. Just diagnose it with proper tool like INPA/ISTA/DIS. It will tell you quite clearly what is the issue. Since there was intermittent crank and the car has been sitting for long it could be multiple issues. Like EWS+ignition switch, bad fuel etc. Before swapping parts it needs to DIAGNOSED properly.

When it comes to those cheap aftermarket diagnostic tools, I regard them pretty much garbage. They show bogus codes etc. Yesterday I needed to fix a car that Carly (formerly Carly for BMW) had messed up. It was a F10, that had non working power steering, cruise, airbag faults etc. due to Carly (the car was just fine prior to coding with Carly) Sure the garage using it had made the backup prior to coding that is possible with Carly, but of course it didn't work. It required BMW tools to to sort out. It ain't the only one Autocom/Delphi quite often messes up the VO in the car when you try to code a new battery etc. I've had to sort out quite a few VO's on BMW's due to aftermarket tools. It isn't limited to Autocom/Delphi/Carly either, some cheap launch (can't remember the model) also fucked a VO in E60 that I was asked to update the car software. It's quite common to see these issues caused by aftermarket tools. Couple weeks a go I had to sort out 3 BMW's in a week that were messed-up with aftermarket tools. I do diag and coding for several local BMW's indies and several not local via remote connection. I even get quite a few cars from the local dealer.

And no I'm not trying to be a dick, but lets say 7/10 times I get a car from normal Joe to look at it ain't what I was told. Quite often they got these wierd ideas that they got from the internet. Garages usually got it pretty close or they simply tell me they don't know what the issue is. These cars are man made and man can fix them with the proper tools. There is no need for guessing, just diagnose the issue before firing the parts cannon. Diagnosing issues like EWS is quite hard without the proper tools even if you got the experience. If you don't have the experience nor the right equipment it's close to impossible.

[geargrinder]

There is a mechanism on EWS to recover if the changing code goes off sync between key and EWS. Sure if the voltage was low enough and he tried to start it bunch of times the changing code might get far enough that EWS can't sort it out. I've yet to see one and I've diagnosed dozens of EWS issues. Due to low voltage the DME-EWS goes off sync easily (at least that is my experience). In any case there is no reason to guess. Just diagnose it with proper tool like INPA/ISTA/DIS. It will tell you quite clearly what is the issue. Since there was intermittent crank and the car has been sitting for long it could be multiple issues. Like EWS+ignition switch, bad fuel etc. Before swapping parts it needs to DIAGNOSED properly.

Hey brother, you seem fixated on confrontational arguing this one as if we are on some kind of different page, but for the 3rd or whatever time, I 99% agree with you, as I keep saying. Your whole screed there is basically just exactly what I'm also saying about OP's "oh its a key-EWS error statements". I think I already said I wouldn't blind trust the code text from the device, nor, 100% trust OP's verbiage until he triple confirms it. Basically exactly as you say and I've asked a couple times... is he really reading the code text as being about the keys or is it something he heard/read on internet and when he saw "EWS" he automatically inserted "keys" in there because he assumes that's what it is...

I couldn't agree more about the "Joe Civilian googled up some innerwebz stuff and has jumped 3 giant leaps away to a conclusion totally unsupported by any facts"... The number of times guys fire the parts cannon repeatedly before getting all the info on the table is amazing. Note I have said time and again same thing you did - do nothing until you confirm whats really going on here. Even really good wrenchers don't avail themselves of the great live data tools that they should...

FWIW I do exact same as you (help local BMW indys w/ coding side stuff) so it ain't my first time at the rodeo either. There's times I go in and help them with a diag after they've spent hours trying to figure out an issue without software (sometimes the owner has already fired his own parts cannon at it a few times...) and we sort it in less than 1/2 hr. A shame how many BMW indies won't 'do' INPA, but... old garage habits die hard... and the vast majority of typical wrenching-guy stills isn't really a computer geek (yet at least... that will change as generational changeover happens...)

That said, really man, key thing can and does occur. Not worth me googling up the proof and cases and EWS/key programming gurus explanation of it, but.. its just simply a fact that it is possible and does happen, even if it is at some statistically low percentage rate (another thing I keep repeating that doesn't seem to be landing... just because it's super rare doesn't mean it doesn't happen...) I didn't think it happened either until I was confronted with a few examples and heard from some real immob gurus...

[Spirit Force]

Hey brother, you seem fixated on confrontational arguing this one as if we are on some kind of different page, but for the 3rd or whatever time, I 99% agree with you, as I keep saying. Your whole screed there is basically just exactly what I'm also saying about OP's "oh its a key-EWS error statements". I think I already said I wouldn't blind trust the code text from the device, nor, 100% trust OP's verbiage until he triple confirms it. Basically exactly as you say and I've asked a couple times... is he really reading the code text as being about the keys or is it something he heard/read on internet and when he saw "EWS" he automatically inserted "keys" in there because he assumes that's what it is...

I couldn't agree more about the "Joe Civilian googled up some innerwebz stuff and has jumped 3 giant leaps away to a conclusion totally unsupported by any facts"... The number of times guys fire the parts cannon repeatedly before getting all the info on the table is amazing. Note I have said time and again same thing you did - do nothing until you confirm whats really going on here. Even really good wrenchers don't avail themselves of the great live data tools that they should...

FWIW I do exact same as you (help local BMW indys w/ coding side stuff) so it ain't my first time at the rodeo either. There's times I go in and help them with a diag after they've spent hours trying to figure out an issue without software (sometimes the owner has already fired his own parts cannon at it a few times...) and we sort it in less than 1/2 hr. A shame how many BMW indies won't 'do' INPA, but... old garage habits die hard... and the vast majority of typical wrenching-guy stills isn't really a computer geek (yet at least... that will change as generational changeover happens...)

That said, really man, key thing can and does occur. Not worth me googling up the proof and cases and EWS/key programming gurus explanation of it, but.. its just simply a fact that it is possible and does happen, even if it is at some statistically low percentage rate (another thing I keep repeating that doesn't seem to be landing... just because it's super rare doesn't mean it doesn't happen...) I didn't think it happened either until I was confronted with a few examples and heard from some real immob gurus...

What I'm trying to get here is that the car needs to be properly diagnosed. There is no point on speculating on an issue that frankly happens pretty much once in a blue moon (that both keys got their rolling code messed-up). Failing/corrupted EWS is by far more likely that the key losing it rolling code. And there are plenty even more common issues that I've seen on no start cases. We don't even know the issue is EWS related. There could be old codes that got nothing to do with the issue. Could be failing starter/battery/igniton switch/old gas...

OP needs to get a practical approach and start from the basics which means: a) either get some proper diagnostic tools or b) someone with the proper tools to diagnose it. OP didn't mention any checks has been made beside checking codes with C110+. As you said we don't even know exactly what code the C110+ showed. Personally I always pull the codes first thing. Even the local dealer is quite clueless sometimes. Not long ago I got an E60 from dealer. The dealer told the owner that CCC needed software update to start working again. The CCC was dead, so no software update in the world is gonna fix that.

So yes key losing the rolling code can happen, but I've yet to see one or know anyone that has personally seen it. Corrupted EWS? yes intermittently failing EWS? yes Failed DDE/DDE? Plenty.

[geargrinder]

What I'm trying to get here is that the car needs to be properly diagnosed. There is no point on speculating on an issue that frankly happens pretty much once in a blue moon (that both keys got their rolling code messed-up). Failing/corrupted EWS is by far more likely that the key losing it rolling code. And there are plenty even more common issues that I've seen on no start cases. We don't even know the issue is EWS related. There could be old codes that got nothing to do with the issue. Could be failing starter/battery/igniton switch/old gas...

OP needs to get a practical approach and start from the basics which means: a) either get some proper diagnostic tools or b) someone with the proper tools to diagnose it. OP didn't mention any checks has been made beside checking codes with C110+. As you said we don't even know exactly what code the C110+ showed. Personally I always pull the codes first thing. Even the local dealer is quite clueless sometimes. Not long ago I got an E60 from dealer. The dealer told the owner that CCC needed software update to start working again. The CCC was dead, so no software update in the world is gonna fix that.

So yes key losing the rolling code can happen, but I've yet to see one or know anyone that has personally seen it. Corrupted EWS? yes intermittently failing EWS? yes Failed DDE/DDE? Plenty.

DUDE are you insane? REALLY?? WHy are you harping on this!??!? I keep telling you I agree with all that!?? What is your cognitive problem here? How many times do I have to demostrate I'm saying exactly what you are? I used to think you were one of the good smart guys here but at this point you seem either deranged or inable of comprehending a simple message stated over and over again to agree with you.

- - - Updated - - -

Let me recap my frakkin ridiculously long record of exessively agreeing with you:

I would want to verify the actual error that is being reported. Are you SURE it’s EWS and KEYS or are you just saying “keys” (or does the creator misreport the error) because you assume that’s what it means? I don’t know how many tof new people tell me stuff that ends up being not really what they have because they jumped to conclusions.

If it cranks but doesn’t start then the keys ARE being recognized, and the error is only the EWS - DME pairing. In that case the right solution is :05mins w INPA or a similar tool that can reset EWS. Basically free unless you have to pay somebody to do it and even then they shouldn’t charge hardly anything. Yes EWS delete would fix this but why? Just resync the darn thing, it’s all still fine.

Now OP here claims “EWS errors for both keys”. It’s super unlikely the above really happened to both keys , which is why I wonder if he’s not mis-describing his symptoms and really it’s purely a simple DME resync that’s needed (aka you and I see eye to eye on that really).

I 99% agree with you, as I keep saying.

I think I already said I wouldn't blind trust the code text from the device, nor, 100% trust OP's verbiage until he triple confirms it. Basically exactly as you say and I've asked a couple times... is he really reading the code text as being about the keys or is it something he heard/read on internet and when he saw "EWS" he automatically inserted "keys" in there because he assumes that's what it is...

I couldn't agree more about the "Joe Civilian googled up some innerwebz stuff and has jumped 3 giant leaps away to a conclusion totally unsupported by any facts"...

OK? Do you get the point?

[Spirit Force]

DUDE are you insane? REALLY?? WHy are you harping on this!??!? I keep telling you I agree with all that!?? What is your cognitive problem here? How many times do I have to demostrate I'm saying exactly what you are? I used to think you were one of the good smart guys here but at this point you seem either deranged or inable of comprehending a simple message stated over and over again to agree with you.

- - - Updated - - -

Let me recap my frakkin ridiculously long record of exessively agreeing with you:













OK? Do you get the point?

In my previous message where did I say I was disagreeing with you? I'm trying to clear this up for OP. He needs to start from the basics. Without diagnosing properly this all is just pointless speculation. Do you understand my point?

[yyi]

Spirit Force, geargrinder, thank you both for the "spirited" discussion, from which I've learned a good bit. So, I guess I've got some work to do, but given I've just introduced a new baby to the family it may happen over some time and will try to report back with findings. I was hoping for a quick solution but I may be asking for too much.

As I've stated earlier, approximately 6 months ago, the car had no trouble cranking at all. Furthermore, I've failed to state in my original post (apologies), when I was first trying to start the car 6 months ago, it felt like it was about to come alive then fell completely flat. I tried cranking it repeatedly after that for maybe 20 seconds at a time and got nothing, I thought, it was probably EWS disabling the fuel system. After reading everyone's feedback I think you guys' point of doing a proper diagnosis has a lot of merit. On top of the EWS issue, gas is about 3 years old and theres no telling if I'm getting proper fuel pressure just to name a few things.

So, in short, going to have a go with the K+DCAN OBD2. Will do some research this weekend but if possible i'd like to ask of you guys, are there any definitive guides to either ISTA or INPA? Or a place where I can get the best "crash course" if possible.

Thanks again, Spirit Force and geargrinder. I hope you guys don't mind if I may lean on yall a bit in my future efforts.

[itsbrokeagain]

Quite the spirits at work here in this thread. Methinks I can skip church this week.

[JimLev]

Quite the spirits at work here in this thread. Methinks I can skip church this week.

I was thinking about getting another box of

[geargrinder]

OK so the car DOES crank, meaning the keys are NOT a problem, and the "EWS Key error" was mis-described/reported, as suspected.... and therefore the whole tempest in a teapot about keys being out of sync can be disregarded. Simple.

[yyi]

OK so the car DOES crank, meaning the keys are NOT a problem, and the "EWS Key error" was mis-described/reported, as suspected.... and therefore the whole tempest in a teapot about keys being out of sync can be disregarded. Simple.

Sorry for making it confusing, I wrote my original post in haste. It did crank, 6 months ago, and I did not use any scanners for codes then.

3 days ago however, it only cranked intermittently like twice out of the many times I tried. Then, the C110+ tool was used and showed the ews error.

Can I assume the EWS error is still plausible here?

[geargrinder]

Can I assume the EWS error is still plausible here?

No/Yes/Choice-C.... You need to read the details of all the shit that's above. There are 2 kinds of EWS errors which is what me an SpiFo have been arguing about whilst really agreeing.

We are very skeptical about what the code you reported actually is, since you've provided no details or specifics.

There's a very real chance you've just lost DME-EWS sync as SpiFo keeps saying - especially if it still cranks intermittently.

I strongly suggest you:

• Check battery voltage. Charge battery w/ good charger. Confirm charge took effect. BTW yes they call it a 12V battery but 11.9V or 12.1V or whatever is not charged. 13.7V or something like that is properly charged.
• Read codes w/ proper BMW reader from both the EWS and the DME (ECU). That means 2 separate code readings. Ideally w/ INPA but if you still have the Creator in the meantime do that.
• Report them accurately and completely. Not "yeah there was like some like EWS or something error probably its about keys I think probably maybe". I mean like with the damn number aka "Code 43: EWS blah blah exactly what it says". The Creator might have actually given you the right info but you report it so offhand frankly its clear we don't trust that. Personally (SpiFo disagrees I think) I would actually be fairly inclined to trust the NUMBER a Creator reported but perhaps not the actual text, but its trivial to take the number and look up what the proper error should be listed as. A google search would probably do it even.

Do NOT KEEP WANKING ON THE STARTER MOTOR if the battery is low. You're just increasing your chances of a permanent key error of the type I describe above...


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[Spirit Force]

As GG said stop wanking the keys (starter). It won't get you anywhere but possibly more trouble. Get a picture of the error codes and post them here. Taking a picture with cell phone takes only couple seconds. We can't help you if you don't tell EXACTLY what the codes are. Close isn't good enough in this case. I don't any experience on C110, but as GG suggested probably the error code number is correct.

Since you got intermittent crank there is a hole host of possible issues. Battery issue, bad ground, bad starter, bad ignition switch,... I would drain the fuel and replace it with fresh fuel. Current blends that got ethanol are only good for 3 months or at least that is what the local oil companies here state officially. Sure this won't have any effect on intermittent starting, but it would make starting the car easier, when you got the intermittent crank sorted.

Just do what GG got on those three bullet points. It's a good starting point.

[TerraPhantm]

As mentioned several times by GG et al, since the starter cranks, it's not your keys. If it were me, I'd get an INPA setup going and start digging. Even though I don't think it's your main problem, it probably would not be a bad idea to reset the EWS DME sync just to eliminate that issue. Since it felt like "it was about to come alive and then felt completely flat", I suspect you have a more old school issue since the DME shouldn't even attempt to spark when the EWS is out of sync (I believe the MSS5x motors are the exception in that regard).

Right now I think you have a mix of a weak battery (hence the occasional no crank) + whatever other issue you actually have.