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Thread: Is this E32 clutch pedal linkage torqued or normal (pic) ?

  1. #1
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    E32 M30 01-1987 Manual

    Is this E32 clutch pedal linkage torqued or normal (pic) ?

    Hi all!

    Total noob on cars here, trying to fix broken clutch on a cool E32 that I inherited

    So after finding that the clutch master cilinder was broken. When installing a
    new one, I found that the linkage of clutch pedal that links up with master
    cilinder "push rod thing" seems torqued.

    Here is a pic of the old broken master cilinder in place, the master cilinder connection
    is broken, and also seems like clutch pedal linkage is twisted :

    Pedal.Tourqed.3.jpg

    Here is a clear picture of clutch pedal linkage, it seems like there's no way you can
    correctly connect with then new master cilinder that way :

    Pedal.Tourqed.2.jpg Pedal.Tourqed.jpg

    When looking up a pic of OEM clutch pedal assembly it also shows up straight,
    although be it with a slight sort of offset in it :

    E32.Clutch.Pedal.jpg

    I don't know how accurate the drawing is, but you would expect it to be shown correctly,
    So anyone who has replaced master cilinder, is this the pedal linkage supposed to be torqued
    like in my pictures ?

    I think master cilinder was blocked, and my grandpa ( previous owner ) pressed it full force
    and bent the linkage it one point

    Also, reinstalling the master cilinder is a hassle.. getting the hardline attached to it (on the engine
    side of bulkhead) back in its place is a nightmare !

    cheers for any light on this guys !
    Last edited by DeBum; 09-15-2018 at 11:15 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    I cannot imagine that the pedal can be bent. What is the part number in realoem based on the VIN of the car? For example if the car was built in 10/1987 the part number would be 35311155691 here is a picture https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/35311155691/
    But I cannot compare on an actual part, as my 740 has automatic transmission and no clutch pedal.

    change the bushings 35211158290 in any case they are usually broken https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=35_0056

    clutch pedal repair in 2016 and 2015 and 2014 under maintenance http://alpinakozou.web.fc2.com/index.html

    My Cars 7.30i E32
    This info in your profile is not enough, pls add built year and month and which engine. In case it is a 6-cylinder mention 730i M30, if it is a 8-cylinder mention 730i V8
    Last edited by shogun; 09-15-2018 at 08:52 PM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  3. #3
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    e34 540ia/e32 740il
    Woah, that is very much bent. That arm is supposed to be flat, that bracket on the clutch pedal is thick steel, I'm amazed it torqued like that! Good news is you can still buy the clutch pedal directly from BMW and it's cheap.

  4. #4
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    E32 M30 01-1987 Manual
    thanks for the info guys!

    @ Shogun

    It is a 6 cilinder, 01/1987, left hand drive, manual

    Part nr from the realoem webside for clutch lever ( nr. 14 in the drawing in first post above here )
    using that info is : 35311155691

    It also states a "Supersedes part nr." : 35311155690 (06/01/1986 — 10/27/1994),
    witch I dont know what that means.. maybe this part form later model also fits ?

    ECS site shows clearly the offset as in the drawing, really helpfull pictures on that site !
    If I lived in USA I would order from that site !
    ECSpedal.jpg

    Really cool site that Japanese / Chinese one, pedal shows straight in his pics to

    @ m60power

    looks like am on the hunt for a new clutch pedal and bushings !



    Hope to find the time to try and remove the pedal box later today or next weekend

    Thanks for the tip on locktite Shogun, I went to a shop that does hydraulic lines for
    bulldozers and so on, they recommended me locktite 722.

    BTW reinstalling the clutch master cilinder with that hardline attached to it is such a nightmare
    that I am considering going back to that hydraulic line shop and see of they can whip me up
    a piece of flexible hose by maybe chopping up the original one, recovering the screws on it.
    The guy at the shop thought the screws where BMW specific.
    Although I don't know if that's a good idea or not..
    Last edited by DeBum; 09-16-2018 at 07:42 AM.

  5. #5
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    Supersedes means replaces old part number, usually there is mentioned that it fits, 35311155690 Clutch lever , Superseded by: 35311155691 (04/01/1989 — ), Exchangeable retrospectively
    Part 35311155691 was found on the following vehicles:
    •5' E34   (03/1987 — 06/1996)
    •7' E32   (10/1985 — 04/1994)
    •8' E31   (07/1989 — 05/1999)

    That is a Japanese website of one of my wrenching friends, he has an Alpina 735 B11 http://alpinakozou.web.fc2.com/index.html
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  6. #6
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    Waaaaw that Alpina version looks the business !!!

  7. #7
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    The bolt is an eccentric shoulder bolt, which allows adjustment of the pedal height. It should be tight but the eye of the master cylinder rod should be free to swivel. The lever arm on the clutch pedal has a slight jog but should be parallel to the plane of travel.

    clutch_lever1.jpg

    clutch_lever2.jpg

    shoulder1.jpg

    shoulder2.jpg

    shoulder3.jpg

    The hard line from the tip of the master cylinder to the slave is a pain to deal with. As you may have discovered, there isn't much access from underneath the car. Best approach is to remove the two 6 mm master cylinder screws and pull the master cylinder inside the car far enough to reach the gland nut. The nut is soft, use a 6-sided flare nut wrench on it.
    Last edited by TheStigg; 09-16-2018 at 01:46 PM.
    ​"The US Olympics bobsled team has renamed their sled 'Biden' because nothing has taken America downhill faster"

    TheStigg (aka "gale")
    92 735i 5-spd, turbo pending
    89 535i 5-spd (may she rest in pieces)
    94 325ic 5-spd
    87 325is

  8. #8
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    Obviously something froze or popped out of place on the old master cylinder to cause the lever arm to twist out of plane. You may be able to bend it straight again by grabbing it with a crescent wrench. When you have the new master cylinder installed and bled, there shouldn't be that much force in operation to cause it to bend again. Just take a close look at the welds after you straighten it to make sure they aren't cracked and the lever appears straight and solid.


    Pedal.Tourqed.jpg
    ​"The US Olympics bobsled team has renamed their sled 'Biden' because nothing has taken America downhill faster"

    TheStigg (aka "gale")
    92 735i 5-spd, turbo pending
    89 535i 5-spd (may she rest in pieces)
    94 325ic 5-spd
    87 325is

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the tip Mechanical Stig ,
    I didn't realise that's what the eccentric bolt is for !
    Seems real obvious now though

    I might try and bend it back with a grip wrench...
    I had a look, and I don't think it's possible to remove the
    clutch pedal without removing the pedal box assembly

    however, As a mechanical noob, I might be tempted to try
    and remove the pedal box, just for the sake of learning...

    If I can pull that off, It'll make me feel confident on tackling future
    problems the car trows at me

    Need to remove the steering shaft for that, with can't be to hard to
    find DIY info on..

    Also need to remove linkage between that brake pedal and brake
    master cilinder... Bolt B seems pressed in there.. no idea on how to
    remove it... Maybe I can just unbolt bolt A and that would free
    the brake pedal?

    IMG_20180915_151543.jpg
    Last edited by DeBum; 09-16-2018 at 03:01 PM.

  10. #10
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    All you have to do is remove the bolt #21. Easy task in place. No need to remove the entire frame.


    E32.Clutch.Pedal.jpg
    ​"The US Olympics bobsled team has renamed their sled 'Biden' because nothing has taken America downhill faster"

    TheStigg (aka "gale")
    92 735i 5-spd, turbo pending
    89 535i 5-spd (may she rest in pieces)
    94 325ic 5-spd
    87 325is

  11. #11
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    OK gonna give that a shot on Saturday

    Only had time for a quick look on Sunday, although not really clear from the real OEM parts drawing,
    the brake lever is mounted on the same bolt .. It seems like once you undo it, the brake pedal retention
    spring and bits might go flying all over the place.

    Brkae.jpg

    Getting that retention spring back into its place might be tricky with the pedal box still in place.
    Acces to clutch pedel parts is OK, brake pedal not so much

    Also limited space to the left with connector that's tricky to undo.
    ( really don't wanna break that )

    bolt.jpg

    Gonna definitely try to just take out bolt first !
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by DeBum; 09-18-2018 at 05:53 AM.

  12. #12
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    It's not difficult to contain the spring. It won't go flying off. "I would rather swim naked across the Ganges with paper cuts on my nipples" . . than swap out an entire pedal frame.
    ​"The US Olympics bobsled team has renamed their sled 'Biden' because nothing has taken America downhill faster"

    TheStigg (aka "gale")
    92 735i 5-spd, turbo pending
    89 535i 5-spd (may she rest in pieces)
    94 325ic 5-spd
    87 325is

  13. #13
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    That spring is fairly easy to replace. No need to remove the whole pedal box. Bolt one end of the spring to the pedal then the other end just sits there on the assembly.

  14. #14
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    Ow OK, that's great news, I'll be one step closer to fixing up that car after Saturday!

  15. #15
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    What Stigg said - DO NOT try to remove the pedal assembly, it is a nightmare. Just remove the long bolt that goes through the clutch and brake pedal. I also thought the brake pedal spring is under a lot of tension and that it would uncoil like crazy, but after you remove one of the spring arms from it's retainer hole you'll see that it will rotate a small amount before torsion is relaxed. It's not like a garage door spring
    Last edited by m60power; 09-19-2018 at 07:37 PM.

  16. #16
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    Tanks I'll do that

  17. #17
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    The key to attaching the hardline to the M/C is to first attach the hardline to the M/C, then the M/C to the firewall and pedal frame.

  18. #18
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    Finished the whole deal !

    Re-bend and installed clutch pedal successfully, installed new clutch master and slave slave cilinder. Both were completly shut.
    Only need to flush the old dirty brake fluid now. Gonna be for next Saturday should all be good


    I tried attaching hardline to master clutch cilinder and feeding it through that way, however. Had little succes.
    Felt like I needed another pair of hands on the inside to assist guiding it in..

    So I separated the hardline from clutch master, placed clutch master it in it's place but, not screwing it to pedal box,
    only atteched it by it's feeder line ( to allow some movement ).

    Then hand screwed the hardline nut in clutch master
    1.jpg

    After that securely screwed clutch master to pedal box and pedal
    Applied Loctite 577 for hydraulic lines on hardline nut ( and a lot of it )
    2.jpg
    Managed to screw in the rest of it with a 11mm wrench that I angle grinded in half
    3.jpg

    Probably not the proper way but am happy, it's in now !

    Thanks a lot for the help guys, really appreciate it !
    Last edited by DeBum; 09-30-2018 at 01:01 PM.

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