After months of lurking here, I've decided to pull the trigger on some go-fast parts for the E36. I finished a full supsension/bushing overhaul on the car this past July with some other goods and maintenance items I wanted to do while "in there."
I've been doing a ton of research here on the FI forum to start my E36 turbo build and everyone here has given so much information. I've tried to weed out as many stupid questions I may have from hours of reading on these forums and a few other books and sources. I'm sure I'll still have a few for all of you as this process begins. This will definitely be a learning experience I'm looking forward to!
My goal:
Primarily street car
400+ RWHP (with room for growth)
Reliable enough for road trips (bimmerfest!)
Retain AC
12-15 psi boost?
Current functional mods:
BC coilovers/camber plates
Powerflex subframe/RTABs
ECS diff bushings
ECS SS brake lines
UUC evo3 short shifter
Adjustable RLCAs
full track pipe
This is what I've ordered so far and what I'll be running:
BW s257sxe .82 AR
RSI top mount manifold
Mishimoto M-line universal intercooler
Tial 44mm MVR wastegate
HKS SSQV4
UUC cluch setup
Seimens Deka 80# injectors (genuine)
AEM boost gauge
Parts on the list awaiting order:
CES cutring/copper/ARP combo
22RPD tune
Rally Road Walbro 485 Kit
MaximumPSI boost proof hose kit
AEM failsafe
oil pressure/temp and water temp gauge(s) digital maybe?
fittings/vacuum hoses/ oil feed/drain
Intercooler piping
downpipe/exhaust fab
other misc items
boost controller. not sure on EBC or MBC yet
I was curious on what you guys recommend on IC piping? I've seen some on here run 3" on both HOT/COLD sides and 2.5"/3" HOT/COLD. What are the benefits to each?
Vent CCV to atmosphere or valve cover > catch can > atmosphere/venturi?
I need to read more on E85. I have two stations within 5 miles of my home that carries it but availability is a concern to me.
I'm at work and don't have any other pictures right now, but this will be the receiver. I'll upload some more soon.
20180911_172250.jpg
Last edited by VLT; 09-14-2018 at 02:13 PM.
CURRENT: LimeRockParkEdition E92 M3 - BSM/Silverstone E70 X5M - AW/Dove E36 M3
PAST: Techno/Dove E36 M3 - Techno/Dove E36 M3 - LSB/Black E46 M3
Looks like you've done the research, obviously. I'm guessing you're giving yourself room to grow as well with those 80lb injectors? I would have went with the GTX35, personally, but just because i think it is THE perfect turbo for the e36 M3. Not sure if because top mount or why you went with the BW. Good luck, its a journey, not a sprint. I would also forgo the UUC clutch and get the Competition Clutch. You can order it when you order your CES cutring from CES. You don't want to do anything twice, especially the clutch just in case. For EBC, I love my Eboost2 controller....
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
Thanks for the input! M3Mods is a friend and has been a ton of help with giving me advice with this. For the turbo, I wanted something that spooled up around 3k with the 3.2 and had the "robustness" of BW. I've read mixed reviews on the UUC clutch but I'm willing to give it a shot, hopefully it works well since the clutch job I find more tedious than anything. as far as the 485 and 80# injectors was for running E85 + the room for more power. I'm sure the power levels I'm seeking will be more than adequate for a while, but I'll probably pick up a motor to build since they are relatively cheap now.
Any input on intercooler piping?
CURRENT: LimeRockParkEdition E92 M3 - BSM/Silverstone E70 X5M - AW/Dove E36 M3
PAST: Techno/Dove E36 M3 - Techno/Dove E36 M3 - LSB/Black E46 M3
Congrats on joining the FI world! I just went through a similar build with my E85 S52 OBD1 Turbo, I opted to use the S366 with the RSI manifold too. If you're going to run E85, you do not need to lower compression, you can just run the Cutring/Gasket and ARP studs. I'll share with you some of the headaches I went through with my build.
1. RSI Manifold WG placement is terrible. I had to remove my AC lines and I live in AZ , so I'm going to have to have those fabbed up once I get it dialed.
2. The dump tube proved to be a bit of challenge with placement and limited space.
3. The oil drain will touch the WG housing and probably the dump tube, a few people have used the cummins turbo oil drain (Flexible Steel), however, it just would not work for me so I opted for a scavenge pump. My oil drain is for sale if you need it.
4. As far as CCV, I opted to VTA, so I have the Vader Solution fitting then I have a silicone hose to a breather filter just tucked away.
5. I opted to go with 3" cold side piping that I bought 2nd hand from a guy running a TR 1245 IC, and had a custom 2.5" hot side charge pipe. If you plan on keeping AC, it's going to be tough but doable just get a good fabricator.
6. I'm running WG spring for the moment and once I get it running right, I'll turn up the boost .
If you need more help, let me know man, we have similar builds so I'm sure you'll go through some of the pains I did
1997 BMW ///M3 - Estoril Sedan 5MT - M-Rain Interior (1 of 1)
2001 BMW ///M3 - Laguna Seca Blue 6MT
YouTube: (///Motorsport Throttle) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUM...pYSmibzy5YmUvQ
Thanks man! I do remember reading somewhere that the cummins drain was recommended for this configuration. Thanks for mentioning that, I'll have to order that as well. I'll probably end up using flexible hose for the AC. I can deal with no AC in 100F temps but this summer was hot as hell! I feel like we had more days over 110F than any this year. Did you retain your mechanical fan? I'd like to delete it but I'm worried about temps here.
I'm trying to source one of those zada-tech OLED multigauge screens to replace the MPG needle on the cluster (oil pressure, temp, water temp). I don't really want gauges in the sunglasses holder, that's valuable storage!
CURRENT: LimeRockParkEdition E92 M3 - BSM/Silverstone E70 X5M - AW/Dove E36 M3
PAST: Techno/Dove E36 M3 - Techno/Dove E36 M3 - LSB/Black E46 M3
I’ll sell you my never used Cummins drain 23” for $35 shipped. Much cheaper than what they go for online.
I had a slimline fan and deleted my aux fan. Temps are starting to cool down in AZ so I’m going to figure out my AC stuff this winter. As for gauges, i went with the rally road steering wheel pod, only my boost gauge was 60mm, i am going to replace it with a 52mm to fit right.
I finally got mine started and drove it for the first time in 4 months. I was finishing up wiring stuff the past couple of days and only started it to hear it run a bit. Best of luck to you my friend.
Just mocked up the turbo with wastegate on manifold and I think the S2xx series gives much more room than the S3xx. I'm going to order a regular drain a try. If it doesn't work I'll let you know! Do you think 3" on hot side won't work with A/C?
I'm going to try out that new X-line 3 row radiator mishimoto is offering. with a slim SPAL puller. What are you running for thermostat? I ran 80C with a FDM before on a N/A car and all was fine.
Last edited by VLT; 09-17-2018 at 03:21 AM.
CURRENT: LimeRockParkEdition E92 M3 - BSM/Silverstone E70 X5M - AW/Dove E36 M3
PAST: Techno/Dove E36 M3 - Techno/Dove E36 M3 - LSB/Black E46 M3
3” on the hotside was too big for me, so I ran 2.5” and it’s fine. My AC lines still need to be fabricated but car is running good now. I’m running a low temp thermostat. It’s tight in there but maybe the smaller turbo helps with fitment.
I would not worry about 3 inches with the small turbo.
Funny I mention "cooling system." I was going to drive the car to work today and saw a nice blue puddle on my garage floor. Either expansion tank or lower radiator hose crapped. Haven't had time to investigate.
Yeah, I don't see a reason to have 3" hot side. Thanks for the input! On another note, how are you running your hot side piping with that AC canister (I think that's what that is?) on the front passenger side?
CURRENT: LimeRockParkEdition E92 M3 - BSM/Silverstone E70 X5M - AW/Dove E36 M3
PAST: Techno/Dove E36 M3 - Techno/Dove E36 M3 - LSB/Black E46 M3
CURRENT: LimeRockParkEdition E92 M3 - BSM/Silverstone E70 X5M - AW/Dove E36 M3
PAST: Techno/Dove E36 M3 - Techno/Dove E36 M3 - LSB/Black E46 M3
You can relocate the AC receiver dryer but if you move it much you may need to get custom lines made. If you can tig aluminum you could probably DIY something.
No TIG welding experience for me, unfortunately. Looks like with the RSI manifold, I'll have to do custom lines anyways. I'm really debating to myself if it's worth the hassle retaining A/C with how much added heat is going to be under the hood. Plus the 105F+ ambient temps in summer time here. Hopefully I can make it work out.
Last edited by VLT; 09-18-2018 at 11:48 AM.
CURRENT: LimeRockParkEdition E92 M3 - BSM/Silverstone E70 X5M - AW/Dove E36 M3
PAST: Techno/Dove E36 M3 - Techno/Dove E36 M3 - LSB/Black E46 M3
I am all for comfortable cars if you want to drive them. If it’s just a toy you will drive only occasionally, you can choose only cool days and drivevut even less. I would ditch to cool looking top mount manifold and run a bottom mount. You can make all the power you need, the down pipe is easy, you can fit a big fan, and you can have AC.
I haven't run my AC dryer yet, I'm going to have to relocate it and make custom lines for it. Right now, I'm sweating my balls off in this 105 degree weather, but it should be cooling off this week so hopefully it will only be in the 90's. If I had to do it all over again, I'd definitely go bottom mount and not have had to worry about all of this stuff. But I must say, having the top mount and popping the hood, makes me think I made the right choice lol.
I feel the same way about having comfortable street cars. I live in AZ so AC is must-have for me, I think I used AC year round from last summer to now.
1997 BMW ///M3 - Estoril Sedan 5MT - M-Rain Interior (1 of 1)
2001 BMW ///M3 - Laguna Seca Blue 6MT
YouTube: (///Motorsport Throttle) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUM...pYSmibzy5YmUvQ
How are you doing the oil return? I'd like to return my oil to the timing cover but it's hard to find good pics . Just curious. Good luck, this is encouraging to so more people boosting these cars.
http://www.bmwmregistry.com/detail.php?id=13792
* E39 M5 SterlingGray -RIP 11/2018
* E36 328 vert Schwarz - ~TurboProject underway
* E90 335i Sedan MonocoBlau - Daily ToddlerTaxi
CURRENT: LimeRockParkEdition E92 M3 - BSM/Silverstone E70 X5M - AW/Dove E36 M3
PAST: Techno/Dove E36 M3 - Techno/Dove E36 M3 - LSB/Black E46 M3
1997 BMW ///M3 - Estoril Sedan 5MT - M-Rain Interior (1 of 1)
2001 BMW ///M3 - Laguna Seca Blue 6MT
YouTube: (///Motorsport Throttle) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUM...pYSmibzy5YmUvQ
One trick I saw in a video for that is to put the engine at a 90 degree [sideways] if you have a rotating stand. Then you can put the head on it's side as you put it on, to keep a closer eye on the cutrings.
The same trick was useful for installing the lifter box/trays .. keeps everything in place instead of having to work against gravity.
- - - Updated - - -
Perfect pictures, thanks! That's how I think I what to do it.. Keep the oil return path as short and straight as possible. I dont' think that 90' bend will be a problem . I haven't heard of any 'con's to doing it this way.
http://www.bmwmregistry.com/detail.php?id=13792
* E39 M5 SterlingGray -RIP 11/2018
* E36 328 vert Schwarz - ~TurboProject underway
* E90 335i Sedan MonocoBlau - Daily ToddlerTaxi
I personally like popping the hood and having people confused as to why it’s so fast until they spot the bottom mount. I also run 3” hot/cold pipes, 4” intake and cold A/C.
Me, too. My engine bay looks pretty stock. The cold side turbo could easily be mistaken for a cold air intake. Have to look closely to see more.
Maybe I started this thread prematurely, but we are moving ahead now. Engine is out! A first for me. Like I said this is definitely a learning experience and I am always open to learning! I'm replacing every gasket/o-ring in the engine along with new pulleys and timing chains/guides (IWIS racing). I will try and upload more photos through the process. I hope the gurus will call me out when I mess up. I briefly talked with Vollosso and I will be draining to the timing cover. I thought I ordered everything I need but here comes another $700 FCP trip. This never ends... Big shoutout to Jon (E46 M3 getting an AWESOME NA build right now. He will be building a thread soon) and Josh for their help with getting this motor out. It's not much, but it's progress. With how much I've taken from these forums, hopefully this thread can help someone in the future. I'm keeping A/C and haven't found a good "reroute" thread on top mounts. That'll come in the coming months. If there is anything you think I should do/replace/possibly screw up, please let me know. For once, I want do something right the first time! "Buy once, cry once" so they say.
Last edited by VLT; 11-04-2018 at 05:19 AM.
CURRENT: LimeRockParkEdition E92 M3 - BSM/Silverstone E70 X5M - AW/Dove E36 M3
PAST: Techno/Dove E36 M3 - Techno/Dove E36 M3 - LSB/Black E46 M3
CURRENT: LimeRockParkEdition E92 M3 - BSM/Silverstone E70 X5M - AW/Dove E36 M3
PAST: Techno/Dove E36 M3 - Techno/Dove E36 M3 - LSB/Black E46 M3
How are you going to drain to the timing cover while keeping A/C? I ran into problems trying to find a location for it while also retaining the A/C bracket/compressor, but I also didn't look very hard.
If you run into problems, top mount oil pan drain has given me 0 issues thus far.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Last edited by CallMePuff; 11-05-2018 at 03:46 PM.
'95 E34 525i, M50B32 (S52 Crank, K1 Rods, JE 9.0:1 Pistons, S52 Cams, Cutring, Achilles Oil Pump Shaft & Sprocket), GTW3684R 0.82A/R, ZF320
Those bolts will be fine but be careful not to flip the engine stand over in the process. How are you going to secure the crankshaft without the flywheel? I removed the jesus bolt after I had the head removed by placing a small block of wood in cylinder #1 and then placing a piece of hardwood across the top of the block, secured with the used head bolts. This prevented the crankshaft from rotating while I used a piece of pipe (cheater bar) to increase leverage and control on my 22mm socket & pull handle on the jesus bolt. It came right out easily.
Bookmarks