Member
Just need some advice on how the wiring will work for this. New C-V VPAS10 powered subwoofer connected to new 2- way 5 1/4" front door speakers, and ALL other speakers in the wagon, except the tweeters on the A pillars will be disconnected and powered by the sub/amp.
So do I need to leave the other pair of wires (that connect to the front door 5 1/4's for the phone) in place at the rear stock amp, and then re-connect them to the new speakers ?
Can't see how the stock amp can do anything else for me, beyond that. Unless I want to re-install the 6CD changer later on.
Member
Hi,
Your post is a little misleading/not clear enough. How have you connected the PAS10 active sub so that it gets an audio signal? Are you saying you want to retain the oem amp to ONLY drive the new 5.25" component set's tweeters? How will the woofers of the components and the other speakers get their amplified audio signal?
The GROM unit doesn't have anything to do with the 'audio' output side of things, it's an interface to connect to the 'input' side of the head unit.
If you can carefully explain what you've done or are trying to do, it'll help in the forum members understanding and then being able to offer good feedback and suggestions!
Cheers, Dennis!
Member
Thanks Dennis,
I knew there would be some confusion, because I am confused.
As per our PM discussion, I would like to eliminate ALL but the lower door speakers and the high tweets in the A-pillar (does that make sense to get rid all that ?? I mean, rear most speakers just fire down into the rear floor of the wagon, rear door speakers have a negative effect on the soundstage, and I eliminate the mids in the upper front doors, because I now have a great set of Infiniti Kappa 2 way speakers in the lower door).
That's where I'm at from doing all my reading on the forums here. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
So I put the C-V VPAS10 (powered sub) in that compartment above the battery, and discard the goofy plastic sub in there.
Just wondering how my GROM would stay active ?
AND, to add to the mix, I'm asking all these questions because I need to know if I will now be running wires from the C-V sub up to the door speakers. If so, I'd rather do some of the lengthy wiring myself, because I don't want my trusted car audio guy to start messing with my 15yr old. interior. He can do the 8ga power and fuse, and negative cables to the battery.
---edit-----
Re-reading your post. Ahhh. Audio signal. That's the part I'm missing. And not sure what the tweets run to for sound. See ?! Told ya I was a little lost.
Member
Hi,
Thanks for the extra info! It's partly due to posts like this and in general, owners wanting to 'mix' aftermarket audio products with the OEM that makes things confusing/not best practice/marginal to sort of ok improvements to sound quality/a less of a percentage ratio increase Vs money spent ratio.
Assuming you are keeping the oem head unit modules and amplifier -
You need to connect the Audio input 'to' the PAS10 perhaps from the 'full range' signal from one of the roof speakers. Internally, the VAS10 will 'split off' the low frequencies only to amplify. The PAS10 doesn't have any 'output' to drive other speakers.
The Kappa's will not play to the potential they're capable of due to the OEM amplifier being very weak in RMS power output - I think around 7-10W RMS, being relatively easy to push into distortion and not being an impedance that is the aftermarket car audio industry convention.
If your car had DSP as standard, there will be midrange drivers in the door air vent location. If it didn't, then there's no speaker there.
The only speakers which are properly matched to the OEM amplifier impedance and thus make the 'best' of the low RMS power output are the BSW E39 specific ones, but they cost much much more. You will get an 'output' if you connect the Kappa's, but they won't sound 'right'.
So from what I can tell, you don't need to run another set of speaker wires from the back of the car to the front doors. Disconnect the oem roof speakers and use one output to provide the audio signal 'TO' the PAS10 unit. The existing oem amp, connect the door location speaker wires to the crossover the Kappa's came with. Connect the woofer and the tweeter to the corresponding outputs from that crossover unit. Remove the oem door woofer and tweeter and connect them to the Kappa's crossover.
At this point, have a listening test. If it all sounds 'ok/good' to you, then all good. If quite soon or a bit later it doesn't quite sound right, even after you change settings on the PAS10 unit, then you'll understand more of me mentioning to you in PM to junk all the oem stuff and put in all new items. Yes, it'll all cost more, but you'll then have a setup that'll sound a LOT better. It's this premise I was recommending to you, get it right first time rather than going the route you are - buy product and try to get it to work as 'best' you can with the oem products and 'making do' as it were. You aren't the first or will be the last to go this way, I've seen it way way.. way too many times now and it helps keep certain car audio seller in business! I'd rather you planned twice initially and then spent once so that you'd have years of listening pleasure from the word go!
Cheers, Dennis!
Member
Okay. Gonna re-read that last post of yours 3 times, and thanks for staying up to educate me !
I thought the VPAS10 could power the front 2-way 5 1/4's, but no. And I don't have the Kappas with that extra crossover box, by the way. I know you think that I do.
The only thing I've purchased so far are the Infiniti Kappas. And about 18 sg. ft of Second Skin for the door panels (changed my mind last minute on that; I was going to go Dynamat). And since it's fall, I'm happy to go back to almost scratch in creating a better sound system.
Hmmm. 2 years later. Man, I move slowly, or should I say, methodically.
Going to re-read about your set-up Dennis, (wish I liked the Dynavin N7 more), and by that time it will be Sunday night here.
Appreciate all the help.
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