Turbo E36 101

[lreeve06]

So I am writing this to explain how I have boosted my e36 (obd2 m52 2.8). I am no way a BMW master or the best mechanic in the world, but this is how I went about it. I have done extensive research on how to boost an e36 and this is what I have come up with. My goal with this post it to let people know what it actually takes to turbo one of these cars. No you cant just buy a cx racing kit and be done with it. There is a reason the TRM kits cost so much money. I have recently parted out my turbo e36 (still have tons of parts for sale) and have gotten asked a ton of questions about what I did/would have done the next time. I am also tired of people who have boosted these cars being rude to others who are asking them questions. These people are just trying to get into the car community, stop killing their dreams! Okay rant over, lets get into this.

Chassis:

• What I did:
  
  • 323 chassis
  • 3.23 lsd
  • m3 rear brakes (you need m3 trailing arms for this)
  • m3 front spindles
  • m3 front brakes
  • m3 parking brake cable (you need this to run the m3 parking brake)
  • every solid bushing condor speed shop sells
  • fcp euro subframe reinforcement plates
  
  
• What I should have done
  
  • Started with an m3 chassis this way I didn’t have to swap everything over. I would only start with a m3 chassis if you want the brakes. I bought a m3 shell for dirt cheap so I swapped the brakes over. A 2.8 block is better for boost due to having thicker cylinder walls

Suspension

• What I did:
  
  • Basic bilstein suspension. I honestly would just run some BC suspension and call it a day.

Basic Drive Line

• M52 2.8l
• ZF 5 Speed
• ZF driveshaft
• New guibo
• 3.23 lsd
• m3 axles

Engine

• What I did
  
  • I swapped a 2.8L m52 into my 323 that came with a M52 2.5l
  • Stock bottom end
  • Stock resurfaced head
  • .140 MLS gasket (you run a thicker head gasket to run lower compression for boost)
  • ARP headstuds
  • Stock 2.8 cams
  • Wired oil pump nut
  • Welded 10an fitting for the oil return
  • Vanos oil feed adapter (rally road)
  • 4an oil feed line (rally road)
  • Metal water pump
  • 80 degree Celsius thermostat
  
  
• What I should have done
  
  • Replaced every chain (oil pump, timing chain, top chain for the cam gears) with IWIS racing chains
  • S54 oil pump chain tensioner mod
  • Loosened up the ring gap on stock piston.
  • Either a cut ring gasket or o-ring the block
  • Oil return to the timing cover
  • STOP HERE IF YOU DON’T PLAN ON BIG POWER
    
    • S50 crank
    • Eagle rods 135mm
    • Weisco or cp 84.5mm pistons (don’t do a big bore, it can weaken the block)
    • Ferra valves
    • Supertech valve spring kit
    • S52 cam
    • Archilles oil pump upgrade

Transmission/Clutch

• What I did
  
  • ZF transmission
  • Refreshed with new detents and shift pins
  • FX 6 puck sprung clutch
  • OEM pilot/throwout bearing
  
  
• What I should have done
  
  • Still keep the zf (they hold a ton of power)
  • Find a better dual disk clutch

Fuel

• What I did
  
  • Technical 255 fuel pump kit
  • REAL siemens/deka 60lb injectors
  
  
• What I should have done
  
  • Screw the fuel pump kit, get a walbro 450
  • I loved my injectors; just get what every size for your power goal.

Forced Induction

• What I did
  
  • Cx racing manifold + downpipe
  • Cx racing intercooler kit (I had to modify to actually work)
    
    • Welded a tial bov bung on
    • Bought the mishimoto 90 with the ICV bungs
    • Needed a vibrant performance 45 so I could make up for where cx wanted us to retain the stock blow through maf.
    
    
  • Precision 38mm wastegate
  • Precision turbo ball bearing 6266
  • Tial BOV
  • Halman boost controller
  • Vibrant performance air filter
  
  
• What I should have done
  
  • RSI manifold
  • 44mm wastegate
  • VI engineered intercooler
  • Fab a 3” down pipe

Intake Manifold Stuff

• What I did
  
  • M50 manifold
  • Stock icv hoses
  • Tapped the manifold in two places with ¼ npt fittings to accept a ¼ vac line.
  • Oem gaskets
  • Delete the CCV (run a catch can)
  • With the catch can vent to atmosphere or run a venturi system to your exhaust.
  • Unhook the line for the evap vent
  • Unhook the line for the muffler control valve (can be known as the golf t mod)
  • Keep the brake booster line hooked to the manifold
  • Delete anything regarding the emissions control.
  • The only line you need going anywhere is for the oem FPR (I believe)
  
  
• What I should have done
  
  • Max psi hoses for the m50 manifold

Cooling

• Aluminum rad
• Spal fan
• Ecs radiator hoses (not needed at all)
• Metal water pump
• 80 degree celcius thermostat

Tuning

• I personally ran a VEMs stand alone ecu. It’s the only plug and play ecu that im aware of for the obd2 cars. I absolutely love it. It even has a Bluetooth adapter so it broadcasts all your gauges to an android tablet/phone. Companies like RK-Tunes and TRM are also great options if you want to retain your stock ecu.

I am open to feedback! I am sure I missed some things!

[vollosso]

Probably wouldn’t recommend a MLS, also the stronger walls thing is largely a wives tale.

As long as you are not running 4digit power and doing half mile events even the 87mm bore is plenty strong when prepared properly.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[lreeve06]

Yeah thats why I wrote in what I would have done to run a cut ring or o-ring the block. I honestly don't know why I did not go cut ring.

Ahh yeah that makes sense, Ive just been told to run a smaller bore, but also seen big reliable power on bigger bore motors.

[vollosso]

Yeah thats why I wrote in what I would have done to run a cut ring or o-ring the block. I honestly don't know why I did not go cut ring.

Ahh yeah that makes sense, Ive just been told to run a smaller bore, but also seen big reliable power on bigger bore motors.

*Imo* the cracking comes from heat buildup in the block water passage. The more power the more heat, and the more expansion the more likely to crack. Thicker blocks do absorb more heat and have less localized heat stress because of it.

Prepping the water jackets by removing corrosion and similar will help the block.

The reason people said bigger bores back in the day was headgasket seal. Which has been solved with the solutions you list, oring or cutring.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Brown9348]

And what made you part out the car? Blow the head gasket? Or move on to another car?

[lreeve06]

*Imo* the cracking comes from heat buildup in the block water passage. The more power the more heat, and the more expansion the more likely to crack. Thicker blocks do absorb more heat and have less localized heat stress because of it.

Prepping the water jackets by removing corrosion and similar will help the block.

The reason people said bigger bores back in the day was headgasket seal. Which has been solved with the solutions you list, oring or cutring.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That makes total sense. Yeah not that I’m thinking about it more the bigger bore probably doesn’t matter especially if you take the proper precautions like prepping the water jackets.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[lreeve06]

And what made you part out the car? Blow the head gasket? Or move on to another car?

I cracked two pistons, well the ringlands on two pistons. I have a spare block and tons of parts. The plan was to rebuild the engine with forged rods and pistons. At this point I’m just going to drop an LS in it with a big single.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[pbonsalb]

Your tune may not have been good or you were pushing the limits of the stock pistons. Plenty have run untouched M52 bottom ends to 500 lbs rwtq. Opening the ring gaps would be a good idea if you wanted more power and did not mind partially disassembling the block, but at that point I personally would spend the money on aftermarket pistons and probably rods as well. But for those with more time than money, I agree you should be able to get a bit more out of the hypereutic stock pistons with turbo friendly ring gaps. It is also true these motors are all 10+ years older than when I started with forced induction and more motors are tired or abused to start with.

If I had not already gone all the way down the road with the turbo S52, I would consider a domestic engine swap. BMW stuff costs more for the power.

[bmw328m52]

good info. In regards to fuel pump, I would also suggest an aftermarket fpr like aeromotive 13109. Aftermarket pumps like to overpower the stock 3-2 valve causing idle issues/rich conditions.

[lreeve06]

Your tune may not have been good or you were pushing the limits of the stock pistons. Plenty have run untouched M52 bottom ends to 500 lbs rwtq. Opening the ring gaps would be a good idea if you wanted more power and did not mind partially disassembling the block, but at that point I personally would spend the money on aftermarket pistons and probably rods as well. But for those with more time than money, I agree you should be able to get a bit more out of the hypereutic stock pistons with turbo friendly ring gaps. It is also true these motors are all 10+ years older than when I started with forced induction and more motors are tired or abused to start with.

If I had not already gone all the way down the road with the turbo S52, I would consider a domestic engine swap. BMW stuff costs more for the power.

I honestly do think that it had some to do with the tune. I tuned it myself, I think I should have pulled a bit more timing at 18psi. I’m totally fine with pulling the pistons and rods out. I feel like you should for sure go forged rods and pistons at that point as well. Like you said if you don’t have the funds spending some time to open up the gaps wouldn’t hurt to much and it’s fairly easy to do.

Yeah I know what you mean lol, I have a ton of cash into this thing. I’m just shooting for a ton of power with the LS platform.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[lreeve06]

good info. In regards to fuel pump, I would also suggest an aftermarket fpr like aeromotive 13109. Aftermarket pumps like to overpower the stock 3-2 valve causing idle issues/rich conditions.

Thank you! I’ve read so much stuff to stay stock fpr or go with something from aeromotive. I think that having an aftermarket fpr is a very good idea. Thank you for pointing that out!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[someguy2800]

Most of the time when someone cracks a ring land it’s because the rings butted.

[BMWManiac]

Eh, I've been running the stock FPR since 2005....no issues with idle/rich conditions ever

[pbonsalb]

What tune and what fuel pump? NickG apparently tunes around the stock regulators inability to bypass enough fuel at idle to prevent pressure rise. Even a 255LPH will slightly over run the stock for at idle.

[BMWManiac]

What tune and what fuel pump? NickG apparently tunes around the stock regulators inability to bypass enough fuel at idle to prevent pressure rise. Even a 255LPH will slightly over run the stock for at idle.

NickG and the walbro 450

[lreeve06]

Most of the time when someone cracks a ring land it’s because the rings butted.

Very true! It’s actually funny that you commented on this I was just looking through your page to see if you have a write up or pictures on your solid axle swap. I couldn’t find anything, I totally could have missed it though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[someguy2800]

Very true! It’s actually funny that you commented on this I was just looking through your page to see if you have a write up or pictures on your solid axle swap. I couldn’t find anything, I totally could have missed it though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-with-a-9-inch

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...a-9-inch/page7

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-9-inch/page22

There are a few more pictures scattered throughout

[lreeve06]

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-with-a-9-inch

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...a-9-inch/page7

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-9-inch/page22

There are a few more pictures scattered throughout

Thank you sir!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Robocop]

The ring gap is no joke
on only 450hp the stock gaps where not enough and broke all my pistons.
it's a grandpa m30, and maybe u m50 bois can do more, but it's a must for sure.
stock was .019 i opened it to .024 to make sure. it blows out the breather but whatever.

[someguy2800]

Yeah the stock pistons are actually pretty damb strong on all the m5x motors. Most people don’t realize this but a hyperuetectic piston is actually stronger than a forging. Only problem is they have no maleability, so in a detonation event they break into pieces rather than deform like a forged piston will. On an m52 the first weakpoint is the rods, and soon after that the ring gap. I don’t think we have really figured out the failure point of stock pistons with properly gapped rings and better rods. I beat on mine for a whole summer with stock m52 pistons and non vanos rods at 28 lbs of boost. I’ve measured stock ring gaps as small as 012”. Mine I think are .020” top, .023” 2nd and I get nothing out the breather, at least at idle anyway.

[zoziano]

Very true! It’s actually funny that you commented on this I was just looking through your page to see if you have a write up or pictures on your solid axle swap. I couldn’t find anything, I totally could have missed it though. HostGator DreamHost Bluehost

[3literheater]

With the s54 oil chain tensioner mod. How do you know where to drill it?

[someguy2800]

With the s54 oil chain tensioner mod. How do you know where to drill it?

Its not that critical. Just hold it up against the chain and put a mark on the block. I mounted mine with shoulder bolt from mcmaster carr, and another one for the spring.

[Sio2crew]

I could not run iwis race chains with a thicker head gasket/ or spacer with a cut ring. I was told not enough clearance by my engine builder.

I bought 9 to 1 turbo pistons from j.e. in the end.... cut ring and 86.5mm bore.

I know this thread is old. I'm just adding two cents in hopes of helping a future build.