Eaton M122h 3L m50

[pbonsalb]

Could you do staggered front rear and use a spacer up front to add caliper clearance? 2mm is not enough — if you had a worn wheel bearing it could rub. But 6-8 mm should be fine. Maybe you could use hub extenders and a 5mm hub less spacer.

[Greenday694]

I think giving Apex a call would be a good idea. And I'm going to go back to the basics once again. Right now I have a square setup on my car. 18 x 8 38 offset. The rear I have plenty of room inside and outside. Can easily add an additional three quarters of an inch on the inside and outside. So 9 inch wheels with 265 will be no problem.
The front has about quarter inch clearance on the inside, but three quarters of an inch on the outside easily. 8.5 inch wheels we'll fit fine. With 255. I was thinking a 32 offset in the front. Subtracting half of the additional rim width from the 38 ET I have now.

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[pbonsalb]

Most just use spacers up front to reduce offset.

[Greenday694]

I have been searching all over, trying to find Wheels that are 8.5 and 9 for the rear. Apex seems to be the only company that makes them. I will have to wait a little bit. Spent too much money on suspension and brake upgrades.

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[GG///M3]

I have been searching all over, trying to find Wheels that are 8.5 and 9 for the rear. Apex seems to be the only company that makes them. I will have to wait a little bit. Spent too much money on suspension and brake upgrades.

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My car is on apex Arc8’s 18x8.5’s all around, but I’m a square 245 setup all around


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[Greenday694]

I also installed the adjustable H&R sway bars. . They made a huge difference in handling. The car feels a lot better in corners. Without making the ride to stiff. I even tried some really bumpy Corners to see if the car would hop around. . It's soaked up the bumps, And felt like it was on Rails. .

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[GG///M3]

Nice Keith


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[Greenday694]

Thanks. Trying to get the car ready for April. I signed up for driving lessons.
I know I'm a good driver. But I definitely can learn more.
Driver School/Instructor Training School
BMW CCA - New Jersey ChapterWhen:Apr 17, 2020 - Apr 19, 2020Where:Thunderbolt Raceway, Millville, NJ


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[GG///M3]

Nice man. Get some new vids up


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[Greenday694]

Will definitely get some more videos up once the weather gets warmer. Getting some heat in the tires does not help much when the road is below freezing.
Just recently ordered the Apex Wheels. Staggered 18. 8.5 front 9-inch rear. Have a set of Nitto nt05 to put on. Between those And the H&R sway bars. I just installed. This track season should be a much more interesting.
Now back to working on the tune. I believe. I have a tuner. But to make this as smooth a process as possible. I want to dial in the injector dead time. It's pretty close at 14.5 volts. But I want to dial in the voltage is below that. And I know in order to do that. I have to disable the alternator and let the battery run down while the engine is running. And change the lower voltage cells, So that my air-fuel mixture stays the same, at lower system voltages. I believe this is one of the problems why it cranks quite a bit before it starts. Cranking volts is down near 10. And I'm sure it causes some of the little hiccups I get during normal driving. Especially with the heater on headlights and everything else.
Does anybody know of an easy way to disable the alternator? With the supercharger over top of it is very hard to get to.

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[GG///M3]

Keep the updates coming


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[Greenday694]

Quick update. Finally got my Apex Wheels I put on the Nitto nt05, 255 35 in the front, 265 35 and the rear. They fit perfect on the car. No rubbing or anything. Surprisingly the car takes bumps a lot better than with my street tires. But man do they grip. It's dead on in the corners. Guess I'll have to wait until this coronavirus thing is over with. Really looking forward to getting back out on the track and see how far I can push these tires.
I did finally find a definite tuner for my car. Black Box tuning. Unfortunately with the coronavirus going around, that has been put on hold.
Hope everybody else is doing well, and staying healthy. Be safe, Keith out

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[Greenday694]

Hoping somebody can help me with this. Not really sure where I should set my cam timing. The head is completely stock with stock cams. Initially I thought I had the cam timing set to factory specs. I had tons of power down in the low RPMs to the mid-range. But would pretty much fall on its face if I try to go above 5000. Recently I pulled the valve cover to clean and repaint, and new gasket. While I had it off I decided to set at top dead center and drop the cam blocks on. Turns out my exhaust cam was Advanced about 3 to 4 degrees. Easy fix, loosen the four bolts on the exhaust cam, turn exhaust cam back a little, re torque for bolts. It definitely idles smoother, after I pulled some fuel. Right away noticed that it seemed to be running very rich with the tune that I was using. So I started pulling fuel acrossed the lower portion of the map. Off boost. Didn't touch the ignition timing. It seems as though I gave up some of the low end torque, but now it pulls very strong up to 6,500. not sure if this is a good thing or not? Any insight would be greatly welcomed. Thanks in advance

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[spyderg0d]

Well. Congrats. You have figured out cam timing! Since youve gotten this far. I think the best is to experiment and see what you can make happen!

[Greenday694]

Back years ago, when are used to build muscle cars and drag cars professionally, small-block and big-block Chevy, small-block and big-block Fords, and a few Chryslers here in there. Na as well as supercharged, some pushing 3000 horsepower. I knew exactly what cam work in each set up, and at what degree. Give or take a little. I would dial in the cam on the engine dyno. As well as dialing and ignition timing and fuel.
Those days of having access to that equipment are long gone.
And my car is an entirely different set up. I'm building it for road course. So yes it must idle, have a good smooth transition up through the full RPM range. Not just barely idle, and then wot full power.
Ideally it needs to be tuned on a dyno. but for now, I'm asking if anybody has any insight as to what degree the cams should be set at as a starting point, for something similar to my set up. Keeping in mind that my engine is single Vanos, and that the supercharger is most efficient in the mid-range.

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[spyderg0d]

Oh in that case... Im not sure if you have upgraded cams or not.. The exhaust cam i beleive is left alone in most cases unless going full top end power.. There is another recent thread about cam timing which an 8degree change on the intake cam is the best of power.. Im sure someone else who knows what im talking about will sprout up with specifics. But then again.. It may be very different for supervharged or even just fi applications.. I think the best scenario.. To do your own changes, document tune changes needed, power output or run times.. Keep as many variables consistant as you can ofcoarse so that you know the camnis whats causing the effect.

[pbonsalb]

Try asking someguy2800 for a recommendation. I don’t know much about M50 with M54b30 or S52 cranks and combinations of various stock cams. For a forced induction S50 or S52 with factory cams, stock timing works well.

Experimenting with a degree wheel is a pain in these cars so relatively few have done it. I have Schrick 264/256 timed to stock specs but recently bought some special timing blocks from someguy to retard exhaust by 3 degrees. Another member with a similarly modded turbo S52 and the same cams had done some testing to come up with this spec. But your motor and cams are different and your positive displacement supercharger behaves differently so your needs are probably different. You may be on your own.

[Greenday694]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I knew I was asking a lot. I have a very unique set up. I know from past experiences, with 500 plus cubic inch engines, that there is a huge difference between na, Turbo and supercharger, tuning.
And if I was back at the old shop, I could put it on the engine dyno, and degree wheel the cams in till my head exploded.
I would like to get my car as close as possible before I go on the chassis dyno. Looks like my best bet will be, bring more money, and a new valve cover gasket, and another set exhaust cam bolts. And be ready 2 tweak the cam timing a little.

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[GG///M3]

It would be nice to see what this setup makes power wise


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[GG///M3]

One of these some how turned up



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[Greenday694]

Yes I just loved it when my first one showed up at my door. looks like it's in good shape from the outside. How is the coating on the rotors?

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[GG///M3]

Looks mint . I’ll get some pics


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[Greenday694]

Everyone I got for myself or clients oh, I always tore them down and gave a thorough inspection. Check the coating on the rotors. Check for any signs of stuffing the housing. Clean off the rear shaft on the rotors, to look for any signs of excessive wear. Make sure the rear bearings are in good shape and well lubed. Unfortunately more times than not the rear bearings are in need of replacement. Previous owners are typically pretty good at changing the oil in the front gear housing, but they never re Grease the rear needle bearings. It's understandable, you have to take the supercharger completely apart in order to get at them. And they take a very specific high temperature high speed Greece made by Nye Corporation.

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[Greenday694]

I spent part of today data logging and tweaking my fuel Maps once again. once the cam timing set to stock I had to redo everything. Drivability is getting back to normal again. Then I started shopping for differentials. Came across quite a few 293 open end differentials. For 96 to 99 328i. My question is could I swap those gears and to my housing with my LSD?

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[pbonsalb]

No. You would need a different LSD unit, one from an E30, to fit 2.93. You can go shorter with yours but not longer. Somewhere I read 3.07, but I’m not sure and that small of a reduction probably isn’t worth the trouble.